Faithful Unto Death, by Paul Koudounaris

Faithful Unto Death, by Paul Koudounaris (256 pages, Thames & Hudson)

Traveling in rural Ecuador a few years ago, I looked out the car window to see a woman throw the corpse of a dog into a fire in her front yard. It wasn’t an act of cruelty — the dog was clearly dead — but it was still shocking to see an open-air cremation about to take place.

It was likely the best and cheapest option the woman had, faced with a decision that has confronted families ever since we started viewing animals as companions: What do we do with their bodies? In Faithful Unto Death, Paul Koudounaris walks us through the macabre history, making clear that what seems like the obvious answer — bury or cremate them — wasn’t often an option.

In Europe in the 19th century, many people took deceased dogs to rending sites where the bodies were broken down with chemicals, along with dead livestock. Terrible as that sounds, other people opted to throw their deceased animals into rivers. “In Paris, about five thousand dogs a year wound up in the Seine, the tragedy for their owners compounded by the civic cost, with the bodies polluting the river and resulting in 4,000 francs in annual cleanup fees,” Koudounaris writes.

When the rare individual tried to confer dignity on a deceased pet, things could get ugly. In 1855, a woman in Glasgow tried to inter her beloved cat in a cemetery plot she owned; an outraged mob gathered and broke open the cat’s little coffin, and police had to be summoned. It was considered blasphemous to think animals warranted the same burial customs as human beings.

But cremation wasn’t the answer either, as even for humans cremation was not yet widely accepted. So when an English family lost their beloved Maltese in 1881, they pleaded with the gatekeeper at a local park where they used to walk the dog and convinced him to let them bury him in his backyard garden. Word spread, and others began to make the same request. “Slowly his little plot was transformed into something that not only London, but also the entire Western world, had been unaware that it desperately needed.” Eventually there were more than 300 graves, animal corpses stacked on top of each other, in the gatekeeper’s garden, and he kept up the burying until he himself died in 1899.

Around the same time, pet cemeteries began cropping up in other places in Europe. In the United States, the problem of what to do with animal bodies was not so pressing, since there was plenty of undeveloped land, and you could bury anything you wanted on the frontier. Still, by the 1920s the U.S. had more than 600 pet cemeteries, and the U.S. today has more than the rest of the world combined, Koudounaris says — including one that is, bizarrely, only for coon hounds.

Some people are so enamored of their pets that they want to treat them like humans, even after death. Koudounaris tells the story of a mortician who was hired to embalm a dog that had been hit by a carriage (apparently streets were just as dangerous for dogs before cars) and bury him in a mahogany casket with a glass top. And at a mausoleum in New York, a metal box once came open, revealing not human remains but those of a parrot.

Earlier this year the New York Times published a fascinating piece about how a woman came to be buried at one of America’s most famous pet cemeteries, which is in Hartsdale, New York. Hartsdale is among the pet cemeteries that Koudounaris looks at, along with Pine Ridge, in Dedham, Massachusetts, where the fox terrier of South Pole explorer Richard Byrd is buried. The dog’s name was Igloo, appropriately enough, and his gravestone, larger than that of most humans, is shaped like an iceberg. Pine Ridge is also the resting place of three Boston terriers owned by Lizzie Borden.

Some of the most interesting stories in Faithful Unto Death, however, aren’t told in words but through photographs of monuments and epitaphs: “In remembrance of Smut, for 12 years, our much beloved cat”; “Alas! Poor Tiplet”; “Scott, who really smiled when pleased, faithful friend, guard of Anne”; “Witt – Best friend I ever had, died June 1895”; “In memory of a loving pet, Judy, killed by a tractor”; “Bingo, 1934-1950 – Let a little dog into your heart and he will tear it to pieces.”

In fact, anyone who still harbors grief for a long-gone pet may be brought to tears in solidarity with the animals memorialized here. That said, there are also some pictures I would rather not have seen, such as the mummified corpse of a dog that was found stuck inside a tree by loggers. “Stuckie” is now a tourist attraction in Georgia.

Toward the end of the book Koudounaris takes a look at what happens to pets of celebrities and animals that are celebrities in their own right. You’d think the dog that was Toto in The Wizard of Oz would have had one of those glass-topped mahogany caskets, but in fact the cairn terrier was buried at the home of her trainer, which later was razed when the Hollywood Freeway was built. “Cars now speed by above the gravesite, which is trapped under tons of concrete,” Koudounaris writes.

Grumpy Cat, the internet sensation who died in 2019, fared better and has a memorial (with a photo) at Sunland Memorial Park in Sun City, Arizona. (Even in death, Grumpy Cat has 1.4 million followers on X.)

Credit is due to Koudounaris for taking this macabre subject matter and making it engrossing; the only thing perplexing about the book is its presentation: It’s a heavy doorstop of a book, dictionary-like in heft, and maybe not the thing most people would want to display on a coffee table. That said, for people with good arm strength who don’t mind encountering a photo of a dead animal every now and then in a book, it’s a surprisingly compelling read. Kleenex recommended. BJennifer Graham

Album Reviews 24/12/12

Candy Whips, Artificial Melodies (Kitten Robot Records)

This northern California fivesome label their stuff ‘’post-glam” or “accidental goth,” the latter of which is more fitting in my opinion. It’s quite angular, this; to me the tldr description would be Gang of Four sitting around smoking joints with Lord Of The New Church, what with the ’80s-cheesing, mellotron-emulating synth; the resolute, minimalist guitar-chonking and the Stiv Bator vocals of (male) vocalist Wendy Stonehenge. Formulaically, the recipe calls for an Aughts-era verse-bridge structure in the vein of early Cure and such, that is to say the tunes want to take us someplace but don’t always arrive, and yet the journey is nevertheless pleasant enough (that’s especially true of “A Drop Will Do,” an alcoholism-admission story that’s the most phoned-in-sounding thing on board). But there are a lot of cool things in this set, such as “Strange Taste,” with its urgent, no-wave-ish anti-riff. Melodically on point, only rarely bogged down with performative subtlety. A

Kilmara, Journey To The Sun (RPM Records)

The rise of “melodic power metal” is in sync with the same epic-ness we hear in nearly every musical genre nowadays (save for indie of course, whose soil’s been depleted since the 1980s owing to the majority of its bands having more disposable recording money than actual artistry). People don’t have time nor patience for buildup anymore; they want the show-stopping mega-melody now or they go back to social media. We’ve heard it for years from emo-rock bands, pop divas, etc. and now it’s even on the big screen: A year from now, no one will remember that aside from “Defying Gravity” the soundtrack to Wicked is pretty awful (a friend remarked on Bluesky that Stephen Schwartz hasn’t written a decent score since 1970’s Godspell). Unlike Wicked, the fifth album from this Barcelona, Spain-based quintet, is wall-to-wall showstoppers, but sorry folks, sometimes you just have to wait for the big hook-gasm. In other words, conceptually and musically, it’s a fine tracing from the Trans-Siberian Orchestra template, but with more speed when they feel like going for it. I could picture some of this stuff bringing a tear to some metal-head’s eye; such a funny, funny world we live in now. A

PLAYLIST

A seriously abridged compendium of recent and future CD releases

• On Dec. 13, a few new albums will come out and be dumped into the Spotifies and the retail stores that carry music CDs for purchase, do stores even do that anymore? I suppose they do, particularly stores that sell vinyl albums for 1890s Victrola record-playing machines, because they know that certain people fancy themselves as “audiophiles”; they enjoy listening to vinyl records so that they can hear mistakes in old recordings, like they like to go “Woop! Hear that, Petunia? Ringo hit the rim of the snare drum, not the head, lolol, he must have been drunk on the reefers, you know?” No, I’m just funnin’ with you vinyl junkies; by now everyone knows that CDs simply can’t capture many frequencies, like the sound of unintentional rimshots by Ringo or the dulcet tones of groupies power-barfing in the booth; instead, all the sounds get squished together in an aural trash compactor, so the only way you can detect that Jimmy Page has too much treble on his guitar (didn’t he always?) is to suffer through the vinyl versions of 55-year-old Led Zeppelin songs! Speaking of Ringo Starr, he has a new country album coming out Jan. 10, called Look Up, but I’ll save the snarky CSI on that for later, since chances are there won’t be much else for me to talk about in this award-winning column during the first two weeks of the new year. In the meantime, we can point and laugh at Snoop Dogg, whose new album is out this Friday. It is titled Missionary, because Snoop actually invented sex during the time of the pharaohs, and it is produced by famous producing producer Dr. Dre, because why not! One of the singles, “Another Part of Me,” features Police bassist and tantric-sexytime man Sting; the tune borrows Outkast’s steez, reimagining the Police’s “SOS” as a shuffle tune with lyrics about living in L.A. and dealing with people shooting at you because they’re bored or whatever. It’s actually a marked improvement over the original (I know, I know).

• Wait, don’t run off yet, here’s one that’s awesome, a posthumous album from a rapping feller I actually like, DMX! We all know that the D-Man was always big into spittin’ about his faith on his first six-or-so albums, but on this new one, Let Us Pray: Chapter X, there’s more prayin’ than rappin’! Grammy award-winning producer Warryn Campbell set DMX’s prayers to music for the first time on this groundbreaking project that fuses hip-hop to gospel; it includes features from Killer Mike, Snoop, LeCrae and MC Lyte. In “Favor,” DMX thanks the lord for blessing him with fame and such; there’s straight-up praying and some trademark rhyming, super cool stuff.

• I assume you may not know much about British indie-dance act Saint Etienne despite their being around for nearly 35 years. Their trip is blending velvet-rope dance stuff with ’60s pop and whatnot, but on “Daydream,” the single for their latest LP, The Night, you’ll hear straight-ahead trance stuff a la Oceanlab. It’s great, you should listen to it.

• We’ll end the week with Rome, the new live album from Cincinnati, Ohio, post-punk revival band The National! Includes a version of the (very) Kings Of Leon-like “I Need My Girl,” a sad and mawkish rawk ballad that may move you, I don’t know for sure.

Chocolate Raspberry Rugelach

  • 1 cup (120 g) all-purpose flour
  • 2 Tablespoons cocoa powder
  • ½ teaspoon salt
  • 1/3 cup (66 g) sugar
  • ½ cup (1 stick) butter
  • ½ cup (half an 8-ounce package) cream cheese
  • 1 egg, separated
  • 1 teaspoon vanilla
  • 3 Tablespoons + 3 Tablespoons seedless raspberry jam
  • ¾ cup (4 ounces or 125 g) semi-sweet chocolate chips, chopped

Whisk the dry ingredients — the flour, salt and cocoa — together, and set aside.

Right now you might be asking, “If I’m whisking the dry ingredients together, why not the sugar?” Interestingly enough, because it melts into wet ingredients so easily, it is usually considered a wet ingredient.

With a mixer, cream the butter, cream cheese and sugar together until they are light and fluffy. If your dairy is cold, it will cream up perfectly well, but clumps of it might stick in your mixer blade(s); knock it off with a rubber spatula, or turn up the speed and let centrifugal force do it for you. Attaining fluffiness should take two to three minutes. Beat in the egg yolk and vanilla.

Mix in the dry ingredients a spoonful or two at a time. If you try to do it all at once, a cloud of flour will poof up into your face. Remove the dough from the mixing bowl, and pat it into two slightly flattened disks on a floured countertop. Wrap the disks in waxed paper or plastic wrap, and leave it in your refrigerator to chill for an hour or so.

After your dough has had a chance to chill, preheat your oven to 350°F. Take one of the disks out of the fridge, flip it over and press it down on a floured countertop a couple of times to coat it with flour, so it won’t stick, then roll it out into a 10-inch circle. It’s useful to keep a tape measure for baking situations like this.

Slather the rugelach disk with three tablespoons of jam, and sprinkle half of the chopped chocolate over it. Cut it into eight to 10 slices, the way you would a pizza. Roll each of the triangles up, starting with the wide end. They should look a little like crescent rolls. Put them on a baking sheet with parchment paper or a silicone mat. Repeat the process with the other disk of dough. Chill them in your refrigerator again for another half an hour or so, to discourage them from losing their shape as they bake.

Brush the rugelach with egg white, and bake for 20 to 25 minutes, switching and rotating the pans halfway through. Cool for 15 minutes or so on the baking sheets, and dust them with powdered sugar, if that’s a thing you feel compelled to do.

Chocolate and raspberry are a classic combination, and a faint hint of sourness from the cream cheese makes these excellent holiday cookies.

Featured Photo: Bourbon-Cider Sour. Photo by John Fladd.

Going out for Christmas

Where to find holiday meals & meals on a holiday

Here are a few of the places offering special holiday meals and that are open on Tuesday, Dec. 24. Know of another Feast of Seven Fishes or kitchen serving up meals on Christmas Eve or Christmas Day? Let us know at [email protected] for inclusion in next week’s Weekly Dish.

Before Dec. 24

• Colby Hill Inn (33 The Oaks in Henniker, colbyhillinn.com) will hold a Christmas High Tea on Saturday, Dec. 14, and Sunday, Dec. 15, at 12:30 p.m. featuring teas and other beverages; salads and savories, such as mini beef Wellington, mini cucumber sandwiches and more, and sweets such as gingerbread scones, stollen, Christmas cookies and more.

• The Artisan Hotel at Tuscan Village (17 Via Toscana, Salem, tuscanbrands.com) will hold a Brunch with Santa on Sunday, Dec. 15, from 11:30 a.m. to 1 p.m. The food offerings include omelet and prime rib stations; a buffet with salads, breakfast items, vegetables, pan-seared chicken, baked haddock and meatballs; sweets including chocolate fondue and croquembouche, and beverages. The cost is $90 per person.

• The Artisan Hotel at Tuscan Village (17 Via Toscana, Salem, tuscanbrands.com ) will hold a Holiday Special Frank Sinatra Dinner with the Strictly Sinatra Band on Sunday, Dec. 15. Dinner featuring a five-course Italian-inspired meal is at 5 p.m., showtime at 6:30 p.m. Tickets cost $198.

• Bedford Village Inn (2 Olde Bedford Way, Bedford, 472-2001, bedfordvillageinn.com) will host a Feast of the Seven Fishes on Monday, Dec. 23, from 6 to 9 p.m. This traditional Italian celebration will feature a five-course plated seafood dinner with wine pairings. The cost for this 21+ event is $125 per person.

• Greenleaf(54 Nashua St., Milford, 213-5447, greenleafmilford.com) will host a Feast of Seven Fishes, Thursday, Dec. 19, beginning at 5:30 p.m., featuring six seafood courses as well as dessert. The cost is $145 per person, through Greenleaf’s website.

Christmas Eve

Airport Diner (2280 Brown Ave., Manchester, 623-5040, thecman.com) is open from 6 a.m. to 3 p.m.

Alan’s Restaurant (133 N. Main St., Boscawen, 753-6631, alansofboscawen. com) is open 11 a.m. to 5 p.m.

Angela’s Pasta, Cheese and Wine (815 Chestnut St., Manchester, 625-9544, angelaspastaandcheese.com) will close at 4 p.m. on Christmas Eve.

Bedford Village Inn (2 Olde Bedford Way, Bedford, 472-2001, bedfordvillageinn.com) will also offer a three-course prix fixe menu on Christmas Eve, Tuesday, Dec. 24, from 4:30 to 8:30 p.m., followed by a Grand Dessert Buffet and cash bar in the Great Hall. It will cost $125 per adult, or $75 for each child 12 and under.

Buckley’s Great Steaks (438 DW Highway, Merrimack, 424-0995, buckleysgreasteaks.com) is taking reservations for Christmas Eve.

Chez Vachon (136 Kelley St., Manchester, 625-9660, chezvachon.com) will be open normal business hours on Christmas Eve — 7 a.m. to 2 p.m.

CR’s The Restaurant (287 Exeter Road, Hampton, 929-7972, crstherestaurant.com) will be open from 4:30 to 8:30 p.m.

The Derryfield Restaurant (625 Mammoth Road, Manchester, 623-2880, thederryfield.com) will be open from 11 a.m. to 6:30 p.m.

The Farm Bar & Grille (1181 Elm St, Manchester, 641-3276, farmbargrille.com) will be open during regular business hours, noon to 11 p.m.

Chen Yang Li (124 S. River Road, Bedford, 641-6922, chenyangli.com) is open from 11:30 a.m. to 9 p.m. on Tuesdays and Wednesdays and will offer a special menu on Christmas Eve and Christmas Day — see the website.

Chen Yang Li (379 Amherst St, Nashua, 578-9888, chenyanglinh.com) will be open 11:30 a.m. to 9:30 p.m.

Chen Yang Li (520 South St, Bow, 228-8508, chenyangli-bow.com) will be open Dec.24, from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m., and Wednesday, Dec.25, from 12 to 10 p.m

The Common Man restaurants in Concord (1 Gulf St., 228-3463) and Merrimack (304 DW Highway, 429-3463) are open from 11:30 to 3 p.m. Windham (88 Range Road) is open for gift card sales only from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. See thecman.com.

Copper Door (15 Leavy Drive, Bedford, 488-2677; 41 S. Broadway, Salem, 458-2033, copperdoor.com) is accepting reservations at its restaurants until 8 p.m. and will be open until 10 p.m.

Epoch Gastropub (90 Front St., Exeter, 778-3762, epochrestaurant.com) will offer a special price-fixed menu, $70 per person, featuring starters, a main course and a dessert plus an intermezzo from 4 to 8 p.m.

Flying Goose Brew Pub & Grille (40 Andover Road, New London, 526-6899, flyinggoose.com) will be open from 11:30 a.m. until 4 p.m.

Foster’s Boiler Room (231 Main St., Plymouth, 536-2764, thecman.com) is open from 4 to 8 p.m.

Fratello’s Italian Grille (155 Dow St, Manchester, 624-2022, fratellos.com) will be open from 11:30 a.m. to 8 p.m.

Friendly Red’s Tavern (22 Haverhill Road, Route 111, Windham, 437-7251; 111 W Broadway, Derry, 404-6606, friendlyredstavern.net) is open until 8 p.m.

Gauchos Churrascaria Brazilian Steakhouse (62 Lowell St., Manchester, 669-9460, auchosbraziliansteakhouse.com) will be open Christmas Eve at 4 p.m. with a final seating at 8 p.m. and on Christmas Day for brunch from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m.

Giorgio’s (707 Milford Road, Merrimack, 883-7333; 524 Nashua St., Milford, 673-3939; 270 Granite St., Manchester, 232-3323, giorgios.com) will be open from noon to 3 p.m. for dining and from 11:30 a.m. to 4 p.m. for pickup of pre-ordered (by Dec. 22) meals. See the website for details.

La Caretta Mexican Restaurant (lacarretamex.com) will be open in the following locations on Christmas Eve, from 11 a.m. to 7 p.m.: Manchester (1875 S Willow St, Manchester, 623-7705), Manchester (Livingston Park, North End Shops at, 545 Hooksett Road, Manchester, 628-6899), and Portsmouth (172 Hanover St, Portsmouth, 427-8319). The Nashua location (139 DW Highway, Nashua, 891-0055) will be open from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m.. The Derry and Londonderry locations will be closed on Dec.24.

Lakehouse Grille (281 DW Highway, Meredith, 279-5221, thecman.com/lakehouse-grille) is open from 11:30 a.m. to 8 p.m.

The Lucky Moose Casino & Tavern (16 Gusabel Ave., Nashua, 864-0175, luckymoosecasino.com) kitche is open until midnight on Dec. 24 and until 10 p.m. on Dec. 25.

Mr. Mac’s Macaroni and Cheese (497 Hooksett Road, Manchester, 606-1760, mr-macs.com) will be open from 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. on Christmas Eve.

900 Degrees (50 Dow St., Manchester, 641-0900, 900degrees.com) will be open from 11:30 a.m. to 5 p.m.

Puerto Vallarta Mexican Grill (865 Second St, Manchester, 935-9182) and Nuevo Vallarta Mexican Restaurant (791 Second St, Manchester, 782-8762; vallartamexicannh.com) will be open from 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. on Christmas Eve.

Red Arrow Diner locations (112 Loudon Road, Concord, 415-0444; 137 Rockingham Road, Londonderry, 552-3091; 61 Lowell St., Manchester, 626-1118; 149 DW Highway, Nashua, 204- 5088, redarrowdiner.com) are open 24 hours including on Christmas Eve and Christmas Day.

Red Blazer (72 Manchester St., Concord, 224-4101, theredblazer.com) will be open 11 a.m. to 4 p.m., when you can also pick up pre-ordered meals to go for Christmas.

Second Brook Bar & Grill (1100 Hooksett Road, Hooksett, 935-7456, secondbrook.com) will be open in the restaurant until 4 p.m. and at the bar until 5 p.m.

• Shorty’s (1050 Bicentennial Drive, Mancehster; 48 Gusabel Ave., Nashua; shortysmex.com) locations will be open 11:30 a.m. to 5:30 p.m.

Surf (207 Main St., Nashua, 595-9293, surfseafood.com/nashua) will be open on Tuesday, Dec. 24, at both its Nashua and Portsmouth (99 Bow St.) locations.

T-Bones (25 S. River Road, Bedford, 641-6100; 404 Main St., Concord; 39 Crystal Ave., Derry, 434-3200; 77 Lowell Road, Hudson, 882-6677; 1182 Union Ave., Laconia; 311 S Broadway, Salem, greatnhrestaurants.com) closes at 5 p.m.

Tilt’n Diner (61 Laconia Road, Tilton, thecman.com) is open from 6 a.m. to 3 p.m.

Kitchen toys

Gifts for all budgets and levels of culinary nerdery

If you’ve been trying to think of a holiday gift for the cook, baker or mad scientist in your life, here are a few suggestions that you might not have thought of.

Anova Sous Vide starting at $69.99 at anovaculinary.com. A sous vide is a fun toy for a kitchen gadget enthusiast. Originally designed for use in science labs, it keeps a water bath at a constant temperature, allowing a cook to bring a food to an exact temperature. If, for instance, you want to have a boiled egg with a yolk at just the right level of runniness, this will help you do it. If you want to pasteurize a particular food at an exact temperature, boom! Anova sous vides clamp onto the side of any deep vessel, like a soup pot, and are controlled via an app on your smartphone. Search for “sous vide” on YouTube, and you will be hooked.

Victorinox Swiss Classic 8-Inch Chef’s Knife with Straight-Edge Blade and Black Handle $61 at victorinox.com.The best, most useful tool in any kitchen is a sharp, high-quality chef’s knife. Watch any non-baking cooking competition, and most of the contestants will make a bit of a production of unrolling their canvas knife carrier. Victorinox is the company that makes Swiss Army Knives, and this is their beginner’s kitchen knife that is perfect for culinary students and 98 percent of the rest of us. It is comfortable in the hand, holds an edge well, and chops, cuts and slices like a dream. Send it out to be sharpened two or three times per year, and the cook on your list will be 15 to 18 percent happier in the kitchen.

product photo of man wearing toolshop apron filled with woodworking and  repair tools
Shop apron

Apron. A good apron is a necessity in any kitchen and probably gives a cook the most latitude for self-expression. There are classics, like a solid or pinstriped professional apron available from any restaurant supply store, or the iconic “Kiss the Cook” apron. You can easily find aprons designed to reflect any personality, from the NRA to NPR, from a favorite sports team to obscure anime characters. Personally, I love my shop apron, originally designed for woodworkers; it is made from sturdy canvas and has more pockets than any one cook is likely to need.

Bar tools about $25 online or from a restaurant supply store. Almost any chef will tell you to buy your pots and pans or knives individually, rather than in a set, so you get exactly the tools you need and very few of the ones that will sit around cluttering up your cabinet. If you are shopping for someone looking to learn how to mix drinks, there are four basic tools that will allow them to make virtually any cocktail: a Boston shaker (a two-part big cup and little cup for shaking drinks with ice), a long-handled bar spoon for drinks like martinis that shouldn’t be shaken, a small strainer (I like a simple $3 mesh drain strainer; it fits well over almost any glass) and a hand-held citrus juicer. Any of these will make good stocking stuffers, or as a set, with a bottle of liquor, they will be an excellent wrapped present.

The Flavor Bible: The Essential Guide to Culinary Creativity, Based on the Wisdom of America’s Most Imaginative Chefs by Karen Page and Andrew Dornenburg (2008, Little, Brown and Co.) hardcover $45. This reference book is the authoritative guide to pairing flavors with each other. It is perfect for the cook in your life who enjoys developing their own recipes.

product image of King Arthur Baking Company book, titled All purpose baker's companion

The All-Purpose Baker’s Companion by King Arthur Baking Co. (2021, Countryman Press) hardcover $40. Cooking is fun, because most of the time you can throw things together on a whim and see how they work together (especially if you own a copy of The Flavor Bible). Baking can be intimidating, because recipes need to be exact to achieve the chemical reactions needed to produce proper cookies, cakes and breads. Every recipe in this book has been rigorously tested by the staff at King Arthur. There are chapters devoted to technique, and the science of baking, and useful, easy to understand charts and descriptions of tools and ingredients.

Cast-iron Dutch oven starting at $34.95 at lodgecastiron.com. A cast-iron Dutch oven is the Swiss army knife of kitchen pots. It is perfect for braising a pork shoulder, deep-frying corn fritters or baking a loaf of sourdough bread. Many cooks prefer Dutch ovens that have been coated with enamel, but properly seasoned, a plain iron one will give several generations’ worth of service. Lodge is the go-to for cast-iron cookware. You could easily spend $400 or more for a French, enameled Dutch oven and worry about damaging it, or you can spend less than $100 for a no-nonsense one that you can break out the same morning you unwrap it.

An expensive, over-the-top kitchen gift: A KitchenAid Stand Mixer starting at $249 at KitchenAid.com. A KitchenAid mixer is the gold standard of kitchen tools. It will probably work perfectly for 30 years or more, and if it ever does break down KitchenAid will happily repair it, often under warranty. They are available in a range of colors and sizes, and a short search online will reveal an infinite number of decals to personalize your mixer. This is a solid investment. KitchenAid sells reconditioned mixers for as little as $200, and you can find them for even less at flea markets. Because of their sterling reputation, an old used KitchenAid carries as much cachet as a new one, maybe more.

A completely ridiculously expensive holiday kitchen gift: A Reconditioned Taylor Commercial Soft-Serve Ice Cream Machine with Three-Flavor and Twist Capability $8,995 at New Hampshire Restaurant Equipment (783 Second St., Manchester, nhrestequip.com). Is it ridiculous to spend $9,000 on a soft-serve machine? That depends. Is it more ridiculous than parking a new car with one of those giant red bows on it in your driveway? If you want a perfect, once-in-a-lifetime present for the soft-serve extremist in your life, this is it. When other parents are bringing trays of brownies to a PTA fundraiser, your newly retired father will be selling his patented mango-fudge ripple ice cream and slipping freebies to kids when their parents aren’t looking.

Looking to give a cookbook? Here are a few standout recent releases.

America’s Test Kitchen 25: 500 Recipes That Change the Way America Cooks (2024, America’s Test Kitchen) This book feels like it could be a winner with kitchen novices and your family’s best cook — you get cast Q&As and discussions of some dishes as well as “why it works” explanations and thorough methods for every dish.

Bake Club, 101 Must-Have Moves for Your Kitchen by Christina Tosi and Shannon Salzano (2024, Alfred A. Knopf) Tosi, of Milk Bar fame, is a fun baker who makes fun things — in this book that includes Ice Cream Loaf Cake, Cinnamon Buns with Brown Sugar Goo and Pop Rocks.

Easy Weeknight Dinners from New York Times Cooking by Emily Weinstein (2024, Ten Speed Press) The New York Times Cooking recipes are almost as sure-bet as America’s Test Kitchen; the pico de gallo (made to go with hot dogs) is already one of my go-tos.

Pan Y Dulce, The Latin American Baking Book By Bryan Ford (2024, Voracious Books) Even breads and desserts that seem specific to one country or region — a Chilean bread, a Mexican cookie — have history that weaves together native ingredients and methods, colonial influences and often origins even beyond Spain or Portugal, as Ford explains.

My Mexican Kitchen by Eva Longoira (2024 Clarkson Potter) Taking the Stanley-Tucci-in-Italyapproach to food in Mexico on her CNN show, Eva Longoria has become one of my favorite aspirational food exploration people, both on her show and in her podcast, Hungry for History.

Turkaz Kitchen, Traditional & Modern Dough Recipes for Sweet & Savory Bakers by Betül Tunç (2024, Ten Speed Press) Tunç gained a following for her bakes on Instagram but what grabbed me about the book was that it both offers Turkish bakes (Turkish Pistachio Baklava, the sesame and molasses coated Simit) and things like Raspberry Key Lime Bars, Beef Empanadas with Salsa Roja and Salsa Verde, and Garlic Naan.

What Goes with What: 100 Recipes, 20 Charts, Endless Possibilitiesby Julia Turshen (2024, Flatiron Books) On their own, this book’s charts are a valuable resource, breaking down something like a sandwich into its parts — bread, main thing, creamy layer, crunchy layer and extra acidic thing — and then giving suggestions for what each thing could be used to create, for example “Best Ham Sandwich.” We get her recipes to go with these charts.

When Southern Women Cook edited by Morgan Bolling (2024, America’s Test Kitchen) You normally don’t read cookbooks cover to cover but this book, as much a history book as a cookbook, is an exception. You get the stories of a dish, and its many variations, and ingredients and their connections to Native, African, Latin, European and Asian cultures and specific women who had a hand in popularizing the foods. — Amy Diaz

Baskets of goodies

How to put together a gift basket

Your in-laws own too much stuff as it is, and you can’t think of something else they’d actually enjoy owning. Or maybe you want to send a seasonal thank-you to a client. Possibly, you have decent ideas for eight or nine little gifts but can’t come up with one great present for somebody special. A holiday gift basket is an elegant solution to a lot of stressful holiday gift-giving impasses.

Steven Freeman has a lot of experience with designing food-based gift baskets. He is the owner of Angela’s Pasta and Cheese Shop in Manchester and has been filling baskets for customers for a long time. “Angela’s has been making gift baskets for, we’re in our 45th year now,” he said. How many has he made this season? “Three hundred thirty,” he said, without hesitation.

According to Freeman, one of the nice things about a gift basket is that it allows somebody to pamper someone else with little touches of luxury.

“I’m not going to buy cashmere socks for myself,” he said. “I’m not spending that kind of money on a pair of socks. But I want them.” Putting them in a gift basket is a way of indulging someone without making a big deal about it. He used the high-end candy that goes in some of his baskets as another example. “A customer may not spend $5 on an adult Reese’s, but once they try it and say, ‘Wow, that was delicious!’, they go to buy it. ‘Oh, it’s $5? Well, it was really good, so I’m going to buy another one.’”

While almost anything smaller than a bowling ball can go in a gift basket, Freeman offered a few general guidelines to putting together one that makes an impact.

Include small bites of food that the recipient can eat immediately. “You want something you can instantly get in your mouth to feed on or snack on,” he said. “Even if it’s a pasta meal that you have to cook and spend time preparing, you can get something to snack on right away. In every one of our baskets, we put something that you can break right into.”

The presents in the basket should follow a theme. “Our pasta baskets are a pasta meal,” he said. “There’s a bag of pasta in it, an equivalent size sauce to complement it, and then a snack, a beverage, and a sweet snack and a savory snack. So while you’re preparing the meal you can be snacking and drinking other things. We try to tie it together.”

Put a surprise in each basket. “One thing baskets allow us to do is to introduce customers to products that they wouldn’t necessarily buy themselves,” Freeman said. “Maybe it’s something that they don’t think is their flavor profile, or it’s not a budget-friendly thing they would normally spend money on. It should be something that the recipient isn’t likely to have tried on their own.”

Make it easy to see everything in the basket. Freedman said Angela’s usually uses shallow baskets that showcase gift items well. “The baskets [we use] are all tapered,” he said, “so it gives you a larger surface to build on it, as opposed to trying to stuff it all in. They need some good padding. And it’s very intentional that they’re filled up that high so you see the product. It gives you visual volume. And then underneath them, we use recycled packing peanuts to raise everything up, because they’re lightweight and they compress nicely. That’s our base; then we put crinkle-cut paper on top of it, then fill it with the candies, chocolates and then the bigger things.”

If you have a crisis of imagination, there’s no shame in having someone put together a basket for you. “We have about 10 gift baskets we make year-round,” Freeman said. “We revamp them every summer.” Angela’s sells 10 premade baskets that range in price from $62.99 to $166.99, from small and simple to extremely luxurious. “At Christmastime we make 12 Tiffany baskets,” Freeman said. This year, one of the 12 baskets has a $1,000 gift card to theTiffany jewelry store. “Last year we sold out; we had a lucky winner. This year, the winner last year bought the first Tiffany basket for us to donate to someone else. Win or lose didn’t matter, but she bought it. She’s like, ‘I don’t want to win again,’ so we’re donating one Tiffany basket to a customer.’

Angela’s Pasta and Cheese
815 Chestnut St., Manchester, 625-9544
For a list of gift baskets available from Angela’s Pasta and Cheese, visit angelaspastaandcheese.com/gift-baskets. Until Christmas, Angela’s will sell holiday gifts at a pop-up store at the Live Free Refillery (460 Route 101, Bedford, 488-2231, livefreerefillery.com)

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