zero-proof breakfast cocktail
In Ian Fleming’s 1960 short story “Risico” spy James Bond is supposed to meet with another agent in a hotel bar. Never having met him, he is supposed to be on the lookout for a man drinking a Brandy Alexander. In an interior monologue, Bond is impressed by this detail. It is such a feminine drink, he thinks, that a man will be able to be recognized much better than he would be by holding a newspaper folded in a particular way or wearing a specific flower in his lapel.
As with many of the opinions expressed by the literary James Bond, this one hasn’t aged particularly well. Aside from some antiquated gender norming, Flemming missed a golden — and in hindsight obvious — opportunity. Brandy Alexander is a classic name for a female character in a Bond piece. Brandy would be beautiful of course, with dark hair cut startlingly (for Bond at least) short. She’d have a musical laugh and flashing dark eyes, and be an expert poker player and gifted butterfly collector. She would also be Europe’s most notorious cat burglar and jewel thief.
In the movie version she would be played by Audrey Hepburn and would have her own theme song, written by Henry Mancini.
At the end of the story, Bond would find himself with an attaché case notably empty of jewels, and a cheeky note dabbed with Brandy’s perfume, shaking his head and staring at her sports car disappearing into the distance.
Regardless of all that, Friday, Jan. 31 is National Brandy Alexander day, and we should celebrate with a cocktail, if not an actual jewel theft.
Brandy Alexander
1½ ounces brandy – some pedants will say it should be cognac, or brandy from a particular monastery in the mountains of Latvia, but let’s face it: you’re mixing it with crème de cacao – you’re probably not looking for subtle nuances here
1 ounce crème de cacao
¼ teaspoon unsweetened cocoa powder
1 ounce light cream or half & half
Ice
Combine the brandy, crème de cacao and cocoa powder in a cocktail shaker, and dry shake it for 30 seconds or so. This means without ice. The trouble-maker here is the cocoa powder. Cocoa is hydrophobic, meaning that it doesn’t like dissolving in water. If you tried to mix it with the other ingredients over ice, you’d end up with little clumps of cocoa stuck to the ice cubes, bringing the sophistication of the drink down by about 15 percent. If you shake it vigorously with liquor, however, it will mix in pretty well. Like many of us, it is easier to get along with after enthusiastic exposure to alcohol.
Add ice and cream to the mixture, and shake for another 30 seconds or so, then strain into a cocktail or coupe glass. If you judged your shaking right, there should be just a few tiny ice chips floating on the surface.
Ask your digital assistant to play the James Bond theme, and sip your Brandy Alexander to it. You won’t be sorry.
Unlike many cream-based cocktails, this isn’t overly sweet. There is some residual sweetness from the crème de cacao, but it is balanced by the bitterness of the cocoa powder and the richness of the cream. The brandy is able to stand proudly in the front of this jazz combo of a cocktail. It carries a caché of sophistication and inspires confidence.