Cookies for everybody

The challenge of putting less in a cookie

By John Fladd

[email protected]

It’s probably fair to say that Jill Robbins’ cookie journey started largely because of classroom snacks.

“My son has food allergies,” Robbins said, “and I started my company so that kids like him could join in socially when treats are served. I wanted to make it easier for anybody who serves [food] to include people who otherwise wouldn’t be able to join in. And pretty much every social occasion revolves around baked treats, which are pretty much always made with allergens like milk and wheat and eggs and butter.” Add to that any ingredients that might have been made or processed in a facility with foods like peanuts or tree nuts, and snacking can quickly get complicated and problematic.

Robbins’ company, Homefree (homefreetreats.com), in Windham, makes cookies that as many people on restricted diets as possible can enjoy.

“[Our cookies] are free of the top 14 food allergens. The top nine are the ones you have to put on a label, and those are peanuts, tree nuts, eggs, dairy, wheat, soy, fish, shellfish, and more recently sesame,” she said. Additionally they are vegan, certified gluten-free, and kosher pareve, meaning that they have been approved for someone following kosher dietary guidelines.

Homefree makes packaged cookies for retail sales and food service, including chocolate chip, double chocolate chip, vanilla, lemon, chocolate mint and ginger snap.

“We now have large, soft, chocolate chip cookies and brownies that we’ve just started offering to food service,” Robbins said. “So people could request it from food service if there’s, say somebody works somewhere that has a break room where they provide snacks or a cafeteria or if there’s a hotel or a hospital or a cafe or a school or a camp, they can all get the large soft cookies and the brownies.”

Starting a business, particularly a food business, can be complicated, but meeting Robbins’ goals gave her an extra layer of difficulty.

“There’s something called Safe Quality Food, or SQF,” she said, “that’s a very high-level food quality and safety certification. Just the annual audit is three days long. It’s on everything related to food quality and safety, documentation and traceability”

Sourcing reliably pure ingredients has been another challenge. Because it is a common allergen, Homefree can’t use wheat flour.

“We use gluten-free whole oat flour,” Robbins said. “Our oat flour comes from a place that does gluten-free oats.”

Ultimately, one of Homefree’s biggest objectives is making a good cookie.

“There was a company that did a survey,” Robbins said. “They took our single-serve bags of chocolate chip mini cookies and bags of Chips Ahoy, and sent them to over 400 women and asked all kinds of questions. Basically, 73 percent preferred Homefree. So it’s a regular, good cookie, but one that essentially everybody can eat.”

“When I think about what we sell,” Robbins said, “it’s not cookies. It’s inclusiveness in the form of cookies.”

Homefree

See homefreetreats.com for more information including a list of stores selling the cookies.

Featured photo: Courtesy photo.

In the kitchen with Cole Gaude

Cole Gaude is the owner and head ice cream maker of Social Club Creamery (138 N. Main St, Concord, 333-2111, socialclubcreamery.com).

“I have a degree in fine arts,” Gaude said. “And I had about a six- or seven-year career in graphic design, and at one point was living in the middle of New York City. And then … kind of fell in love with food and fell in love with ice cream. And then once I moved back to New Hampshire — because I’m originally from Laconia — I just kind of started thinking more and more about it. And so after a few years of living here, I took the plunge to open an ice cream shop and then opened Sunday Scoops … in Concord, and then over the last four years it transformed into Social Club Creamery.”

What’s your must-have kitchen item?

I would say probably a coffee maker. I drink a lot of coffee, and you need it to work the long hours. I mean, we’re doing 12-hour shifts, so I actually didn’t drink coffee until we opened up these shops and now I’m having about four cups a day. I like a light roast, the grassier the better.

What would you have for your last meal?

Some garlic green beans, something like that, and a little baked potato.

What’s your favorite place around Concord to eat?

Probably Sour Joe’s Pizzeria. I absolutely love it. It’s a pretty rare treat for me. I maybe go like once every two months or so, but it’s so good. He did this apple pizza with bacon jam a month ago. It was amazing. It’s just more like — I don’t want to say like upscale pizza, but more like specialty pizza. He doesn’t do a pepperoni pizza — every flavor is unique.

Who is a celebrity you’d like to see eating your ice cream?

… Jeremy Allen White. I just watched The Bear a couple weeks ago. I like him. He’s a cool dude. I think that’d be real cool, seeing him with an ice cream cone. It’s kind of the opposite of the character he plays.

What’s your favorite thing on your menu?

My favorite thing, which is probably one of the least-ordered things that we sell, is actually the oatmeal raisin cookie. I love oatmeal raisin cookies. That’s probably the reason we still have it on the menu — because I refuse to get rid of it; it’s my favorite thing. I love just that combination of fruit and sweets with a little bit of salt. It’s the salt that makes it for me. Huge salt. Like anything, any type of ice cream that we do with salt in it, I just absolutely love.

What’s a food trend that you notice in the ice cream world?

A little bit ago, it was the croissant cookie, which I haven’t been seeing much anymore. The crookie, I think it was called. I never got to try one, but I saw that everywhere. I think right now there’s Dubai chocolate that I’m starting to see.

What’s your favorite thing to cook at home?

Probably tacos. I make good tacos. I like steak tacos with a hard shell and a little cilantro. I like to keep it pretty simple. A big hard shell is pretty much like eating a portable nacho. I love it.

Honeycomb Candy

Needed: food thermometer and 8×8-inch pan
1 cup (200 g) granulated sugar
⅓ cup (80 ml) light corn syrup
⅓ cup (80 ml) water
2½ teaspoons baking soda

Combine sugar, corn syrup and water in a medium-sized heavy-bottomed saucepan over medium heat. Stir frequently until the sugar is dissolved and mixture comes to a boil. Once mixture begins to boil, don’t stir any longer.
Without stirring, cook to 300°F (149°C). Once mixture reaches temperature immediately remove from heat and stir in your baking soda (heads-up! It’s going to bubble up quite a bit). The mixture will immediately begin to foam; stir until baking soda is completely combined and the color turns golden, but don’t over-stir or you’ll end up deflating your candy and won’t have any holes.
Once foaming stops and baking soda is dissolved into the mixture, spread into prepared pan. Cool at least 1 hour before breaking into pieces.

Featured Image: Cole Gaude. Courtesy photo.

The Weekly Dish 25/03/06

News from the local food scene

By John Fladd

[email protected]

New player in the enchilada game: A new Mexican restaurant has opened in Manchester. Raices Authentic Mexican Cuisine (2626 Brown Ave., 932-2770, raicesnh.com) is described on its website as “a heartfelt tribute to the matriarch of our family, Margarita Trejo … and serves authentic Mexican dishes in a modern oasis.” Open Sunday through Thursday from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m., Friday and Saturday from 11 a.m. to 11 p.m.

New Hampshire’s fizzy history: The New Hampshire Historical Society (30 Park St, Concord, 228-6688, nhhistory.org) will host a lecture Saturday, March 8, at 2 p.m. on “The Great Granite Fizz: New Hampshire’s Long History with Sodas and Tonics,” presented by historian and Moxie enthusiast Dennis Sasseville. Admission is free for Society members, $10 for nonmembers. No registration required.

A great deal of wine, presumably Italian: The Artisan Hotel at Tuscan Village (17 Via Toscana, Salem) will host a Grand Wine-Tasting and Food Festival on Saturday, March 9, from 5 to 8 p.m. More than 50 exceptional wines from renowned vineyards will be available for sampling, along with dishes from Tuscan Village’s culinary team and local partners. Stroll through a beautifully designed ballroom, mingle with winemakers and discover your next favorite pairing in an elegant setting. Tickets start at $85 through the Tuscan Brands website, tuscanbrands.com/store/events.

Good Eats and good music: As part of hisLast Bite Tour, musician and celebrity chef Alton Brown will perform at the Chubb Theatre (Chubb Theatre at CCA, 44 S. Main St., Concord, 225-1111, ccanh.com) on Tuesday, March 11, at 7:30 p.m. Brown will reflect on his decades in food media, present several of his favorite culinary mega-hacks, sing some of his funny food songs and offer a unique culinary variety show. Tickets start at $63.75 through the Capitol Center website.

Put your money on the pancakes

New casino offers a full house of restaurants and bars

By John Fladd

[email protected]

When The Nash, the new casino in the Pheasant Lane Mall in Nashua, opens its doors this week, there will be a lot of food and drink involved. It boasts four restaurants and two additional bars, plus catering for private parties and service to guests practicing their golf swings or watching sporting events on a gigantic television screen — but perhaps the most surprising food fact about The Nash is how staggeringly good its pancakes are — lightly crispy around the edges, not too thick, and gently sweet with the tang of buttermilk.

“In the state of New Hampshire,” said Eric Althaus, the general manager of The Nash, “no casino is allowed to be open 24 hours. We have to close for at least five hours a day. Every day we open at 9 a.m. Sunday through Thursday we close at 2 a.m. and then on Friday and Saturday we close at 4 a.m.” Even for guests and staff on a civilian schedule, that means a lot of breakfasts.

The Woodlands Cafe on the casino’s lower level is a casual three-meals restaurant, where you would probably order the pancakes. It has “everything from obviously breakfast items to your sandwiches and burgers to more fine dishes at night as well,” Althaus said. The lower level is also the home of Stadium Social Sports Bar & Grill, where guests might order food and drinks while they watch the big game. There is also a coffee bar. On The Nash’s main level are two more restaurants: the Lucky Lantern Noodle House, and Proper Chophouse & Cocktails, The Nash’s formal restaurant, which will stock more than 1,000 bottles of wine. There is also an additional bar, the Electric Pheasant.

“Lucky Lantern was going to be the late night dining outlet,” Althaus said. “We’re not going to be ready for that at opening; we’re still making some fine enhancements to the cook line. So we are modifying the hours here [at two of our other restaurants] to ensure that we do have the food offering because we’re serving alcohol all the way until two o’clock .”

The goal, Althaus said, is to present guests with a wide variety of food options. There are luxury dishes, like premium steaks and cocktails, to luxe interpretations of popular dishes, like lobster benedict, or sliders made with wagyu beef. Special attention has gone to perfecting classic snack foods, such as house-fried potato chips and perfectly crisp french fries, fried pickles.

For the most part, food for all the restaurants will be prepared in a large central kitchen, then served at each restaurant.

“There’s one production kitchen,” Althaus said. “The Lucky Lantern Noodle does have an action station that will produce additional food as ordered, but a lot of the broths and most of the other dishes are still prepared back of house in the production kitchen.”

Once The Nash has opened (the opening is slated for March 5), serving food and beverages throughout the casino will require precision and attention to details. Althaus said the casino’s staff has been working hard to prepare.

“They’re excited,” he said. “A lot of them have been working for months, getting prepared, making sure that we’re training. We’ll be pushing through over 4,000 people just in the restaurants to work on ticket time [orders that come into the kitchen], work on consistency, presentation, everything that goes with it.”

The Nash Casino

Where: 310 DW Highway in Nashua
Restaurants & bars: Woodlands Cafe, Stadium Social Sports Bar & Grill, the Lucky Lantern Noodle House, and Proper Chophouse & Cocktails and the Electric Pheasant.
More info: thenashcasino.com

Featured photo: Photo by John Fladd.

Kiddie Pool 25/03/06

Family fun for whenever

Sweet fun

• NH Maple Weekend is next weekend (March 15-16) but Charmingfare Farm (774 High St. in Candia; visitthefarm.com) begins its maple fun this weekend with its Maple Express. Admission costs $29 per person and the event runs Saturdays and Sundays March 8, through March 23 (see the website for available admission times). Visitors can visit a sugar shack, see the maple process from tree to syrup, visit farm animals and more, according to the website.

Ben’s Sugar Shack (8 Webster Highway in Temple; bensmaplesyrup.com) has also started the sweet fun early giving free maple tours every Saturday and Sunday in March, 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. New tours of the maple process start every 20 minutes, rain or shine, according to a post on Ben’s Facebook page, which recommends dressing warm and wearing boots. The happenings also include maple and maple product samples.

Free day

The Currier Museum of Art (150 Ash St. in Manchester; currier.org) will offer free admission to New Hampshire residents on Saturday, March 8, when the museum is open from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m., as part of its Second Saturday offer. For more on the museum’s new exhibit “Ann Agee: Madonna of the Girl Child,” see the story on page 16.

A little science

• Head to the SEE Science Center (200 Bedford St. in Manchester; see-sciencecenter.org) on Saturday, March 8, from 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. to see the inventions in the Rube Goldberg Machine Contest. The machines, built by local students, solve the problem “Feed a Pet,” according to the website. Seeing the show is part of regular admission to the Center, which costs $14 per person (ages 3 and up). The center is open on Saturday from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m.

• McAuliffe-Shepard Discovery Center (2 Institute Drive in Concord; starhop.com) will hold its next Little Learners session on Wednesday, March 12, from 12:30 to 1 p.m. The events are geared at ages 5 and under and include a story and a hands-on activity, according to the website. The event is included with regular admission, which costs $13 for adults, $12 for 62+ and 13 through college and $10 for ages 3 to 12 years old. During the school year, the Discovery Center is open Wednesday through Sunday, 10:30 a.m. to 4 p.m.

On screen

• While you wait for Zendaya’s voice in Shrek 5, catch Shrek (PG, 2001) at Chunky’s in Manchester, chunkys.com, as part of the Little Lunch Date series on Wednesday, March 12, at 11:30 a.m.

• See the original Space Jam (PG, 1996) starring Michael Jordan and a whole lot of Looney Tunes on Wednesday, March 12, at 6 p.m. at Flying Monkey in Plymouth, flyingmonkeynh.com. Doors open at 5 p.m. and the venue offers a special family-friendly menu on family movie nights.

On stage

• Palace Youth Theatre will present an hour-longDiary of a Wimpy Kid: The Musicalon Wednesday, March 12, and Thursday, March 13, at 7 p.m. at the Palace Theatre (80 Hanover St. in Manchester; palacetheatre.org).

Welcome, campers

• If the Feb. 27 issue of the Hippo has you thinking about your summer day camp needs, put the NH Audubon Nature Camp Open House and Reunion on your calendar. The event on Thursday, March 13, from 5 to 6:30 p.m. at Massabesic Center (26 Audubon Way in Auburn) offers those new to camp a chance to ask questions about the programs. The evening will feature games, crafts, song, a pizza party, an animal presentation and more, according to nhaudubon.org, where you can RSVP. For more summer day camps, check out our listings, which start on page 10 of the Feb. 27 issue, which you can find at hippopress.com.

Treasure Hunt 25/03/06

Hi, Donna,

I enjoy your column in the Hippo and am wondering if you would have any insight into a piece of artwork I own. It is an artist’s proof by Irving Amen (see pictures with signature) called ‘Rythms’ (first “h” is missing?) but I cannot find a similar picture anywhere online. I am wondering if it ever went beyond an artist’s proof.

If you have an idea of what it might be worth, or who I could talk to if this isn’t your department, I’d appreciate it.

Much thanks!

Adele

Dear Adele,

Art being a really specific field, I did some research and educated myself.

Artists’ proofs were done of the original just as limited editions. Unlike limited editions there were not many made, and this makes them more valuable. Some proofs can have color changes and items just a bit off from an original, which can also give them a higher value.

It’s tough to determine values on proofs without comparing them to other proofs from the artist. Even then there can be a difference in values from one proof to another, depending on subject and exactly how many proofs were made.

I found lots done by Irving Amen in the range of $100 to $300. Not many duplicates out there either. This could be why you didn’t find an original.

Adele, I think that to be certain, I would contact a large auction house that sells artwork. Possibly Bonhams Skinner in Massachusetts — they have specific departments just for artwork. This way you will know for sure.

I wish you luck, Adele, and hope I gave you insight. Thank you so much for sharing and giving me some education too.

Donna

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