African and Caribbean flavors

ToKoss Take-Out opens in Manchester

When The Stuffed Sub closed last year, owner Chris Munzimi of Afro Paris, the beauty supply store next door, immediately took notice. He and other family members had been looking for a space to open a restaurant, and the newly vacant spot on Elm Street in Manchester was perfect.

ToKoss, a takeout-only eatery offering hard-to-find African and Caribbean dishes like oxtail stew, turkey tail, jerk chicken and cassava bread, in addition to house subs, burgers and wings, opened March 9. Munzimi, his younger brother Romeo Masuku, cousins Christian Mumpini and Junior Munzimi and family friend Jonathan Manono are all investors.

Masuku, whose family came to New Hampshire from the Democratic Republic of the Congo in the early 2000s, said the restaurant’s name is derivative of the Lingala word “kitoko,” which means “something good” or “beautiful.” Its logo features an African safari tree.

“We wanted to bring some culture to the city of Manchester,” Masuku said. “We’re trying to incorporate dishes from the continent of Africa itself, and also dishes from the Caribbean islands and other Latin American countries. … Some of the recipes come from my mom directly.”

ToKoss features several options that are available all day, like chicken tender or house-marinated steak subs, cheeseburgers with a variety of add-on options, and salads. Traditional African or Caribbean meals become available starting at 3 p.m. — those include oxtail stew, curry chicken, jerk chicken, and pondu, or cassava leaves. Each comes with rice and one or two additional sides, like sweet plantains, fries, corn on the cob, and samoussas, or meat-filled pastries.

“The oxtail stew is something that everybody loves. That’s been the biggest seller,” Masuku said. “Oxtail is something made in Africa and the Caribbean islands as well. … The differences are in the spices used. We’ve identified house spices that we use here to try to incorporate everybody.”

You’ll also find a rotating menu of specialty items served on most weekends, like goat meat stew, catfish stew or smoked turkey tail, which can be ordered with any side. Other a la carte items have included wings, baby back ribs, fried shrimp, chicken or house-marinated steak kabobs, and beignets, also known in the Democratic Republic of the Congo as mikate.

“[Beignets] look like small doughnuts, but just fried. They’re very popular in Europe as well,” Masuku said. “You can eat them virtually with anything.”

Soft drinks like Coca-Cola, Sprite and Fanta are sold in glass bottles out of a refrigerated case.

“In Kinshasa, which is the capital city of where I was born, when you go out to restaurants you’ll usually see Coke products come in glass bottles,” Masuku said, “so we brought that in here just to have that little bit of nuance. … We’re going to try to add ginger beer also.”

In addition to takeout orders via phone, Masuku said ToKoss will soon be offering online ordering and delivery through a third-party service.

ToKoss Take-Out
Where
: 1293 Elm St., Manchester
Hours: Tuesday through Friday, 11 a.m. to 8 p.m., and Saturday and Sunday, 3 to 9 p.m. (may be subject to change)
More info: Find them on Facebook and Instagram @tokosstakeout, email [email protected] or call 232-4399 to place a takeout order

Feautred photo: Oxtail stew over Caribbean rice with curry chicken and a beef samoussa. Photo by Matt Ingersoll.

Ready, set, cook

Milford’s Chris Viaud to appear on Top Chef

Milford chef Chris Viaud will appear as a contestant on Season 18 of Bravo’s cooking competition series Top Chef, which will premiere Thursday, April 1. He’ll compete in several challenges with 14 other executive chefs and restaurateurs from across the country, preparing dishes for celebrity judges Tom Colicchio and Gail Simmons, as well as previous Top Chef finalists. Filming for the show took place in Portland, Oregon, late last year. As they say on the show, the winner receives $250,000, a feature in Food & Wine magazine, an appearance in the annual Food & Wine Classic in Aspen, Colorado, and the title of “Top Chef.”

Viaud is the executive chef and owner of both the farm-to-table restaurant Greenleaf (54 Nashua St., Milford, 213-5447, greenleafmilford.com) and the sandwich and pastry shop Culture (75 Mont Vernon St., Milford, 249-5011, culturenh.com). He grew up in Massachusetts and attended Johnson & Wales University in Providence, R.I., where he studied food service management. Prior to opening Greenleaf and Culture, Viaud spent three years as a chef at Deuxave, a fine-dining French restaurant in Boston, where he honed many of the creative techniques and skills he still practices today.

How were you approached for the show and what was the casting process like?

One of the prior chefs at Deuxave, Adrienne Wright, was actually a contestant on Season 16 of Top Chef. She was the one who kind of inspired me and motivated me to toss my hat into the ring. She sent in my name and then somebody from casting reached out to me to begin the interviewing and auditioning process. There were many steps involved, and I had to think a lot about how to best express my talent to get to the point of being chosen for the show.

Had you been a previous Top Chef viewer? Were you familiar with the show’s format?

I’ve been watching the show since around Season 10 or 11. It’s definitely one of my favorite cooking shows to watch, because I often feel a deep connection to the chefs. This is all raw talent and their real struggles and self-battles that come through on the show.

Do you remember the moment you learned you had been selected to be a Top Chef contestant and what was going through your mind at that time?

Yes, actually. So just before Culture had opened [in August 2020], I was sitting in the empty building doing paperwork, and I got a call from an unknown number. Typically I don’t pick up unknown numbers, but I just had a feeling. … I was told that I had been selected to compete in the new season. I ran around the building and drove from Culture to Greenleaf. My wife Emilee was working the line at Greenleaf, and I took her aside and told her the news, and then I was just speechless after that.

You learned soon after that you’d be traveling to Portland, Oregon, for filming. Did you have to familiarize yourself with the food scene over there as part of your overall preparation?

I had not been there before, so it was also a bit of a surprise for me to learn that I would be going to Portland. I wasn’t too familiar with it, so I did have to do some research on the food community out there and what grows around that area. In New England, for example, we focus a lot on the four distinct seasons when we think about produce, but over there, there is a lot of produce that is grown year-round. So those kinds of things definitely took me outside of my comfort zone.

Did the experience make you realize anything you hadn’t noticed before as a viewer?

I’ve done cooking competitions before, but nothing quite like this at all. You get that realization that this is all really happening once the clock starts ticking. That 30 minutes you get is a real 30 minutes, and it flies. … All of us on the show became very well-connected, and being able to share our expertise with one another was one of the most rewarding things about the experience.

What was filming like in the midst of Covid?

There were multiple Covid tests before leaving but also throughout the course of filming. The production company took several extra measures to make sure the judges and the contestants were staying safe. We had to wear masks whenever we weren’t filming and we had to keep our distance from one another.

Top Chef: Season 18 premiere
The episode will air on Bravo and will feature Milford chef Chris Viaud
When: Thursday, April 1, 8 p.m.
How to tune in: Check your television service provider’s listings for the channel number, or stream the premiere online at bravotv.com/live

Feautred photo: Chris Viaud. Photo by Stephanie Diani/Bravo.

The Weekly Dish 21/03/25

News from the local food scene

Get ready for Easter: Still wondering about what to do for Easter Sunday this year? Visit hippopress.com for our annual Easter listings (available for free to everybody thanks to our members and supporters), which include details on local restaurants and function centers serving special brunches or dinner menus, as well as bakers, chocolatiers and candy makers offering unique creations of their own. Easter Sunday is April 4, so be sure to place those orders or make those reservations soon. For the most up-to-date availability, check the websites or social media pages of restaurants, bakeries and function centers, or call them directly.

Chili chowdown: The Amherst and Merrimack Lions Clubs are now offering recipes available for purchase from contestants that participated in their “virtual” chili cook-off on March 2. According to Amherst Lion and event co-captain Joan Ferguson, there were 10 entries total, with submissions divided into two categories of either individuals or Lions Club members. Each chili was judged by three local celebrity chefs for its taste, smell, heat, creativity and presentation. Visit e-clubhouse.org/sites/amherstnh to access the virtual cook-off and download the recipe list. Bonus recipes from previous cook-off winners are also available for purchase. The cost is $10 for five recipes, $15 for 10 recipes or $20 for all of them, with proceeds benefiting the Lions Sight and Hearing Foundation of New Hampshire.

A drink to history: Join New Hampshire Humanities for The Hot Drinks Revolution, a virtual event happening on Friday, April 2, at 5 p.m. Dr. Whitney Howarth of Plymouth State University will talk about history’s role in making drinks like tea, cocoa, coffee and Coca-Cola the popular beverages they are today, discussing Atlantic slave-sugar trade, cafe culture in colonial days, the indigenous resistance to tea plantations and the tale of the coffee bean in Latin America. Visit nhhumanities.org to register via Zoom.

Lemon freeze: Salem limoncello producer Fabrizia Spirits has recently introduced new frozen versions of its ready-to-drink canned cocktails, according to a press release, in three flavors: Italian lemonade, Italian margarita and Italian breeze. The frozen cocktails follow the same exact recipes as their canned counterparts, made with limoncello, freshly squeezed Sicilian lemons, premium vodka and tequila and all-natural fruit juices. They’re sold in mixed 12-packs and are currently available in retail stores across several states, as well as online. The introduction of canned cocktails to Fabrizia’s product line a few years ago has been a major sales driver for the company, according to the release, as it has enjoyed a nearly 250 percent increase in profits since 2018. In the several months since launching the Fabrizia Lemon Baking Co., it has expanded its offerings to include limoncello-infused blondies, biscotti and whoopie pies. Visit fabriziaspirits.com.

Treasure Hunt 21/03/25

This was a necklace that we found in my mother’s jewelry collection. It seems to be a coin in good shape. Can you give me any advice on it? Should I leave it in the casing or remove it? Any information will be helpful.

Karl from Dover

Dear Karl,
What your mom has or had is a Morgan 1921 silver dollar. It wasn’t uncommon to find dollar or half dollar coins in necklace form (sometimes other coins as well). Condition on most is poor but the coins, if older like hers, are usually real silver.

The Morgan dollars were minted from 1878 to 1904 and then again in 1921 like yours. If you look closely on the back of the coin, between the D and the O of “dollar,” there should be a tiny letter. That will give you the mint where it was struck (made).

The value on them in general for the year 1921 is in the range of $25 to $40 depending on the condition. If it were mine I would leave it in the setting until you bring it to someone to see. If you are looking to sell it, let them remove it. Until then don’t clean it; just keep it as you found it.

Note: Never clean coins yourself. Always let a professional in coins handle that, because cleaning can lower the value of coins.

Kiddie Pool 21/03/25

Family fun for the weekend

Interactive fun

Kids are invited to sing, dance and play games during a special livestream event with Laurie Berkner on Sunday, March 28, with shows at noon and 5 p.m. The virtual show, presented by the Capitol Center for the Arts, is an 80+-minute live interactive performance for the whole family. The cost is $20, and tickets give you access to both shows. Get tickets at ccanh.com.

Bunny photos

Get a free family picture with the Easter Bunny at Bass Pro Shops (2 Commerce Drive, Hooksett, 541-5200) on Saturday, March 27, and Sunday, March 28, from 11 a.m. to 6 p.m.; Friday, April 2, from 2 to 6 p.m.; Saturday, April 3, from 11 a.m. to 6 p.m., and Sunday, April 4, from 10:30 a.m. to 3 p.m. Register in advance for your free 4×6 color photo at basspro.com/easter.

More maple!

If you didn’t get a chance to explore a local sugar shack last weekend, there’s still one weekend left of New Hampshire’s Maple Month. At Ben’s Sugar Shack (83 Webster Hwy., Temple, and 693 Route 103, Newbury, 924-3111, bensmaplesyrup.com), there are free 30-minute tours every 15 minutes on Saturday, March 27, and Sunday, March 28, from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. Although there won’t be any breakfast or hayrides this year, Ben’s will have maple doughnuts, ice cream, roasted nuts and cotton candy, as well as a gift shop inside and outside (the Newbury location is open for the tours and gift shop only). The free tours continue every weekend through April 11.

Make your own maple syrup at Prescott Farm (928 White Oaks Road, Laconia), which is offering Tap Into Maple on Saturday, March 27, from 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. The start times that were available as of March 22 were noon and 2 p.m. The program lasts an hour and a half and includes a hands-on look at the maple syrup-making process, from tree tapping to tasting. If you can’t make that event, Prescott Farm is also hosting Sugar & Snow on Saturday, April 3, from 1 to 3 p.m., where you can watch syrup makers finish boiling sap for the season and enjoy a sweet treat. The cost for each program is $12. Visit prescottfarm.org to sign up.

Several other local sugar shacks are also hosting tours this weekend. To find one near you, visit nhmapleproducers.com.

Get out the pruners

Your fruit trees are ready for a haircut

When I was a boy I loved to climb trees. I had no fear of heights, and loved the unique perspective I got looking down from the top of a tall pine or maple tree. Now that I’m all grown up, I no longer climb trees — unless I have the excuse of pruning, which I also love. On a recent warm, sunny day I got out my pruning tools and ladders to give my fruit trees “haircuts.”

A word about timing: Conventional wisdom has it that you must prune apples and other fruit trees in March. Hogwash. You can prune them any time. I generally stop pruning when flower buds start to open, but prune again in August and in late fall after leaf drop.

Good tools are important for doing a good job. You need sharp bypass pruners (not the anvil pruners that crush the stems), a pair of good loppers and a small hand saw — folding saws with sharp teeth are good. I have bigger saws for large branches and even a small electric chain saw, but rarely use them.

Start by walking around the tree a few times and really looking at the structure of the tree. I want my trees to have enough open space that sunlight can get to every leaf. Sunshine feeds the tree and dries out leaves, helping to minimize fungal diseases. A robin should be able to fly right through a mature apple tree without getting hurt.

My first cuts are usually the biggest branches that need to be removed. It’s easier to remove one 3-inch-thick branch than snip away 50 small branches on it. If you prune every year, you may not have a big branch to remove, but it’s surprising how quickly water sprouts turn into big branches going straight up through the middle of the tree. You can often reduce the height of a tree by shortening big branches.

Water sprouts grow every year on most fruit trees. The first year they are pencil-thin and 12 to 36 inches long. Cut them off as they will just clutter up your tree. Trees grow them in response to a need for more food for the roots, and they are most common in shady parts of the tree where leaves are not getting enough sunshine. Some varieties are more prone to growing water sprouts than others, and a hard pruning may stimulate them to grow in large numbers.

Dead wood should always be removed. In winter there are no leaves on the tree, and it can be tougher to determine what is dead. Look for dry, flaking bark. But the sure test is to take your thumbnail and scratch off a layer of bark. If you see green, it is alive. If not? It’s dead.

Look for rubbing branches, or branches so close that they will grow together. Choose one, and cut it off. Some trees, maples, for example, often send up branches that originate at the same point and are growing in the same direction. Remove one before they grow together and fuse (which results in a weak spot subject to breakage). Maples and birches, by the way, should not be pruned now when the sap is flowing fast. Do them in the fall, or even mid-summer.

Branches often grow away from the center of the tree, as they should, but compete with another branch directly above or below it. Decide which is the better branch, and remove the other. I also look for branches that are headed into the interior of the tree and remove them.

When pruning, don’t leave stubs. Cut back each branch to its point of origin: the trunk, or a bigger branch. This will promote healing.

Fruit spurs on apples and pears produce flowers and leaves, and are indicators where you will have fruit later this year. They are easy to identify: they are short gnarly branches (3 to 6 inches) that have fruit buds. Fruit buds are bigger and fatter than leaf buds. They do not generally appear on young fruit trees. Learn to recognize them: when deciding which of two branches to remove, keep the one with more fruit spurs.

Fruit most often develops on what are called scaffold branches — sturdy branches that leave the trunk on an angle that is almost parallel to the ground, or aiming up slightly. Branches that go more straight up, older water sprouts for example, produce little or no fruit.

You can change the angle of growth of a branch that is only an inch or less thick. Once winter is over, attach string or rope to a branch and tie it to a peg in the ground or to a weight to bend it down. A half-gallon milk jug works well. Just add water until you have the correct angle on the branch. Forty-five to 60 degrees off vertical is fine. You can remove the weights in June.

When pruning, don’t overdo it. Trees need their leaves to feed the roots and fruit. In any given year don’t take more than 25 percent of the leaves (woody stems don’t count when calculating how much you have taken off).

One last fact: A well-pruned tree will produce fruit that is bigger, sweeter and tastier than a tree that has been neglected. I don’t want lots of little fruit, and I try to remove some each year in June to encourage fruits to grow to full size. Leaves that get plenty of sunshine will produce more sugars for the fruit, so it will taste better. So get to work!

Featured photo: Fruit spurs are short with a fat bud or two. Courtesy photo.

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