Month: May 2021

The Five Wounds, by Kirstin Valdez Quade

The Five Wounds, by Kirstin Valdez Quade (W.W. Norton, 416 pages)

You may think that you have no interest in a story about a troubled family set in New Mexico, a story that, just two pages in, reproaches you for not remembering more of the two years of Spanish you had in high school.

You would be wrong. Not about the fact that you should know more Spanish — this is true — but about not relating to The Five Wounds, Kirstin Valdez Quade’s deeply affective portrait of a family that is likely vastly different from yours, but similar in profound ways. But first you have to get past the crucifixion.

The central character is Amadeo Padilla, an unemployed man who lives with his mother and drinks too much. Padillo is 33, “same as Our Lord, but Amadeo is not a man with ambition.” But when he is chosen to portray Jesus in a re-enactment of the Passion, Padilla suddenly finds hope. It is, he thinks, a role he was born to play, and he throws himself into preparation for the Good Friday ceremony with an energy that he has never before assigned to any task, including parenting.

This is painfully clear when, on Holy Week, he comes home to find his 15-year-old daughter, heavily pregnant, waiting for him. Angel lives with her mother, and he hadn’t seen her in more than a year. To Amadeo, the arrival is supremely ill-timed; he is busy being Jesus, and has neither time nor desire to do the onerous chores of parenting, such as helping his daughter get to school on time. World-weary Angel, who had a fight with her mom, has nowhere else to go, however, and had hoped to get some mothering from her grandmother, if not her father, for whom she has no expectations of competency.

But the grandmother, Yolanda, isn’t there — for her own heart-rending reasons later disclosed. So, for a few days, Angel is thrust into being a parent to herself and to her dad, who has decided that, after the upcoming crucifixion, he will make his fortune with a do-it-yourself windshield repair business with a kit he ordered for $1,199. “Amadeo images windshield repair is a trade Jesus might get behind. It is, essentially, carpentry for the 21st century,” Quade writes.

The novel seamlessly switches perspectives, from Amadeo to Angel to Yolanda, who arrives home (memorably described as “an adobe-style house soiled pink with iron bars on the windows”) on Easter day, planning to break the news of a life-altering diagnosis. Instead, she is plunged into assorted family dramas in which she has to assert matriarchal control: her warring adult children, her soon-to-deliver granddaughter, who has not even had so much as a baby shower, just a load of used baby clothes that haven’t even been washed, “as though [the] home were a Goodwill dumpster.”

“Having children is terrifying, the way they become adults and go out in the world with cars and functioning reproductive systems and credit cards, the way, before they’ve developed any sense or fear, they are equipped to make adult-sized mistakes with adult-sized consequences,” Quade writes.

The novel continues to build on small but volcanic things: Yolanda’s increasingly worsening health, Amadeo’s budding business and relationship with his daughter’s godmother and teacher; and, of course, the birth of the baby, which is the beating heart of the story, in fact, in some ways, of all of life.

The child, “unplanned and unwanted, dreaded and bemoaned,” turns out to be the saving of them all. “No child has ever been as needed, as necessary and beloved,” Amadeo thinks as he desperately tries to navigate a crisis late in the waning pages of the book.

The Five Wounds is a novel that builds slowly, set in a region of the United States that does not get a lot of literary attention. Nor, it could be argued, do the novel’s themes. The book takes seriously an unusual expression of religious faith — the live Passion plays that are popular in Mexico and in other places heavily influenced by Hispanic culture.

It begins and ends on Holy Week, one year apart, and as Amadeo reflects on his successor in the role of Jesus, he observes that the suffering of a man 2,000 years ago, “suffering that was newly astonishing, but also just like the suffering of the men crucified beside him, just like the suffering of every person before and after.” So, too, this strangely absorbing story. A

BOOK NOTES
In January a widely publicized open letter dubbed “No book deals for traitors” demanded that no current or former member of Donald Trump’s team find a home in mainstream publishing. The effectiveness of that effort was recently revealed in news that Kellyanne Conway, Mike Pence and William Barr all have book deals. (Pence got a two-book deal from Simon & Schuster, also Conway’s future publisher.)

Right now, however, the political book that is getting all the attention is Elizabeth Warren’s Persist (Metropolitan Books, 320 pages), despite lackluster reviews. NPR drubs it as “a series of stories, then plans,” and, equally damning, “campaign-trail Warren, in book form,” nothing Warren will want to use as a jacket blurb.

Then again, it seems unfair to demand that politicians also be compelling writers.

Meanwhile, for an examination of why one of our most compelling authors was successful, check out The Artful Dickens, by John Mullan (Bloomsbury, 448 pages). Mullan promises to reveal “the tricks and ploys” of the beloved author. One is that to fully embrace Dickens’ genius, you need to read his writing out loud. A literary critic and English professor in London, Mullan organizes his thoughts into 13 essays. Dickens fans will be especially interested to learn the specifics of how the author arrived at the memorable names of his characters, such as Scrooge and Pecksniffian.

After that, check out last year’s The Mystery of Charles Dickens, by A.N. Wilson (Harper, 368 pages), published in conjunction with the 150th anniversary of his death at age 58. Part literary analysis, part biography, the book is also the author’s personal reflection of what Dickens meant to him. Wilson maintains that of all the great novelists, Dickens was the most mysterious, then does his best to open the veil.

Books

Author events

• SUZANNE KOVEN Author presents Letter to a Young Female Physician, in conversation with author Andrew Solomon. Hosted by The Music Hall in Portsmouth. Tues., May 18, 7 p.m. Virtual. Tickets cost $5. Visit themusichall.org or call 436-2400.

• MEREDITH TATE AND CAMERON LUND Tate presents Shipped. Lund presents Heartbreakers and Fakers. Hosted by Gibson’s Bookstore in Concord. Virtual, via Zoom. Thurs., May 20, 7 p.m. Registration required. Visit gibsonsbookstore.com or call 224-0562.

• KEVIN KWAN Author presents Sex and Vanity. Hosted by The Music Hall in Portsmouth. Thurs., May 27, 7 p.m. Virtual. Tickets cost $5. Visit themusichall.org or call 436-2400.

• ANNETTE GORDON-REED Author presents On Juneteenth. Hosted by The Music Hall in Portsmouth. Thurs., June 3, 7 p.m. Virtual. Tickets cost $5. Visit themusichall.org or call 436-2400.

Call for submissions

• NH LITERARY AWARDS The New Hampshire Writers’ Project seeks submissions for its Biennial New Hampshire Literary Awards, which recognize published works written about New Hampshire and works written by New Hampshire natives or residents. Books must have been published between Jan. 1, 2019 and Dec. 31, 2020 and may be nominated in fiction, nonfiction, poetry, children’s picture books, middle grade/young adult books. All entries will be read and evaluated by a panel of judges assembled by the NHWP. Submission deadline is Mon., June 21, 5 p.m. Visit nhwritersproject.org/new-hampshire-literary-awards.

• COVID POETRY ANTHOLOGY New Hampshire residents are invited to submit original poems for review and possible publication in COVID Spring Vol. II,an anthology of poetry about the pandemic experience in New Hampshire, to be edited by New Hampshire Poet Laureate Alexandria Peary and published by Hobblebush Books this summer. Youth age 18 and under may also submit original poems to be considered for the anthology’s new youth section. Submit a poem or poems (up to three) by Sun., May 23, through the online submission form at hobblebush.com/anthology-submissions. Poets will be notified of the editor’s decision by June 15.

Book Clubs

• BOOKERY Online. Monthly. Third Thursday, 6 p.m. Bookstore based in Manchester. Visit bookerymht.com/online-book-club or call 836-6600.

• GIBSON’S BOOKSTORE Online, via Zoom. Monthly. First Monday, 5:30 p.m. Bookstore based in Concord. Visit gibsonsbookstore.com/gibsons-book-club-2020-2021 or call 224-0562.

• TO SHARE BREWING CO. 720 Union St., Manchester. Monthly. Second Thursday, 6 p.m. RSVP required. Visit tosharebrewing.com or call 836-6947.

• GOFFSTOWN PUBLIC LIBRARY 2 High St., Goffstown. Monthly. Third Wednesday, 1:30 p.m. Call 497-2102, email elizabethw@goffstownlibrary.com or visit goffstownlibrary.com

• BELKNAP MILL Online. Monthly. Last Wednesday, 6 p.m. Based in Laconia. Email bookclub@belknapmill.org.

• NASHUA PUBLIC LIBRARY Online. Monthly. Second Friday, 3 p.m. Call 589-4611, email information@nashualibrary.org or visit nashualibrary.org.

Featured photo: The Five Wounds

Album Reviews 21/05/13

Rain Rabbit, Rain Rabbit (self-released)

So some guy from Chicago named Kyle Brauch sent me a random email to try to get some attention for his new, totally done-it-himself album. Usually I only focus on such things when it’s a local band, but what got me was his politely excited overuse of exclamation points (“Don’t hesitate to contact me if there’s anything else I can provide!”). Enthusiasm is always just grand, isn’t it, folks? No? Well, it’s better than when newbie bands tell me they’re trying to “garner reviews from great writers such as yourself.” I want to ask them, “‘Garner’, you say? Are you an awesome band, or are you literally trying to ‘raise my ire’?” But regardless, this is actually a decent album, sort of an advanced approach to ’80s radio-pop, starting with opener “Holding On” and — well, everything else. There’s a Hall & Oates/Aldo Nova side to this stuff that was believed extinct. At least by me, I mean. Oh, you get the picture. It’s great for what it is. A

Bedroom, Stray (self-released)

Droopy but basically palatable weird-beard-pop album from Noah Kittinger, who launched this project when he was 16. The main selling point is Kittinger’s voice, which touches on Grizzly Bear and whatever other Beach Boys-dipped Aughts-era album you might be able to stomach, but his go-to vocal sound is more akin to that of Junip’s José González (who I believe is much more renowned for guesting on Zero 7’s 2007 album The Garden, not that I’d ever fight someone over it), or, if you’re old, Gilbert O’Sullivan (of the 1972 mega-hit “Alone Again [Naturally]”). That’s a nice sourball sound, and it literally rescues something like half of these songs, which are glitch-chill with not enough glitch. I mean, it’s fine with me if an artist wants to interrupt songs with irritating demonstrations of beginner-level synth-edginess, but that stuff doesn’t increase its shelf-life, not when there are plenty of bands that go all-out with it and still remain melodic. May I be excused now? B-

PLAYLIST

A seriously abridged compendium of recent and future CD releases

• May 14 is the next general CD release day, and so I must depart the safety and people-shunning zen of my underground lair and venture out once again into the realm of new albums, in the hope of locating some music that isn’t refried, remixed, derivative, contrived or just plain awful. There are many hipsters afoot this week, so let’s first stop and try to gauge what Akron, Ohio-based garage band Black Keys are trying to accomplish with Delta Kream, their upcoming 10th album! Ah, it is a collection of “hill country blues” cover songs, which makes sense. I mean, if you were a skinny jeans-wearing, Reddit-browsing band from Ohio, really the only music you would be familiar with is music from America’s hill country, a region of northern Mississippi bordering Tennessee, am I right? No? Whatever, let’s just go with it; I’m seeing semi-famous names being bandied about here, such as R. L. Burnside’s guitarist Kenny Brown, as well as separate entries from Junior Kimbrough and his bassist Eric Deaton. What, you haven’t heard of them either? OK, that’s a win-win, let’s wrap this up quickly, then, but remember, old songs about mud and snakes and whatever are really cool, because — well, you know, because. There are covers of John Lee Hooker songs, including his version of “Crawling Kingsnake,” which is pretty awesome as far as throwback-chill-blues go. The video was filmed in front of Jimmy Duck Holmes’ Blue Front Café, which is the oldest active juke joint in America. You don’t care? Well that isn’t very awesome of you, but OK, moving on.

• Mind the rocky terrain, Rocinante’s Fail, my backside already hurts from this quest for decent music, and in fact if you’ll stop for some nice water and oats or whatever donkeys eat, I’ll investigate more hipsterism, from this new Chills album, Scatterbrain! These guys are a jangle-pop indie band from New Zealand, and they break up pretty often, which means they are good, because jangle-pop bands should break up as often as possible. What’s this then, the latest single is called “Destiny.” In a nutshell, it’s Belle & Sebastian but with whatsisname’s masculine, half-whispered voice. At least it’s analog, but then again, who could make sleepy Buddy Holly-sounding music with digital equipment, am I right? It would accidentally sound like Tiesto, I think, don’t you?

• I know I just recently talked about a Juliana Hatfield album in Retro Playlist, but she has a new one coming out soon, titled Blood. Yes, she is cool, because she was in The Lemonheads and she’s done records with Paul Westerberg, but let’s listen to the new single, “Mouthful Of Blood” and check in! Well wow, it is an OK song, jangly and mildly riot-grrrl-ish. No, she doesn’t actually sound very edgy, but if you like bands like Dinosaur Jr. or whatever, you’ll probably like this.

• Wrapping up the week is Seattle indie-schlub Damien Jurado’s new LP The Monster Who Hated Pennsylvania, led off by a single called “Helena!” This guy looks like an accountant and sings like one too; this is shuffle-y folkie chill, sort of like Sun Kil Moon but more awkward and accountant-y.

Retro Playlist

Exactly 10 years ago this space was focused on a bunch of new albums, including Give Till It’s Gone, which at the time was the new one from weird-beard-culture icon Ben Harper. Putting all snark aside, I tried to assure my readership that the album “was totally not rushed out to help pay Harper’s legal bills in his divorce from pointy-nosed David Lynch muppet Laura Dern,” because if I’d said it actually was rushed out in order to pay some L.A. lawyer, people would have started distrusting the entertainment industry, maybe even taken a long look at why anyone would buy a Ben Harper album in the first place (“The hard-rockin’ Neil Young-inspired kickoff single “Rock N Roll Is Free” highlights the Joey Ramone aspects of Harper’s voice, because you should always put your weakest foot forward.”).
But all was not baseless trolling of unfairly popular indie-folk-whatevers that week. The main thrust involved two albums, one of which was an emo thing, Yellowcard’s When You’re Through Thinking Say Yes. My review of that one was a random jumble of hatred for their usual freshly showered “power pop” (I really need to take a few minutes someday and just write a quick software program that writes reviews of emo albums, all of which would be variations on what I said about this one: “… there is, as always, little to say about this sort of album aside from ‘at least such-and-so is a good song’). My one-line closer was pretty good, though, if I say so myself: “Beach music for future stars of Teen Mom.”
There was also an arena-dinosaur band on tap, namely old Scottish butt-kickers Nazareth, with Big Dogz. I think this was the band’s last LP before singer Dan McCafferty died, and it was a valiant effort, if a bit too (predictably) bluesy, like the fellas were trying to recapture the non-magic of the muddy, truck-drivin’ bar-band nonsense of their (not awesome) older albums, the ones they made before (the totally awesome) Hair Of The Dog. Nevertheless, McCafferty did turn in a couple of badass rockouts (OK, actually one, “Lifeboat”), and in the end it’s a nice, messy, caterwauling effort.

California Bordeaux

A look at American takes on French-style blends

While blending of grape varietals is not new to California winemaking, Thomas Jefferson would be pleased with some of the latest refinements to this exercise in creating nuanced and complex wines.

A lover of all things French, Jefferson was a true champion of the Bordeaux style of making wine. His favorite red wines came from the left or west bank of the Gironde River, where the blends consisted of cabernet sauvignon, merlot and petit verdot. His favorite white wines came from the Entre-Deux-Mers region that lies between the Gironde and Dordogne rivers, with sauvignon blanc as the dominant grape. From Jefferson’s day to today, French wine has been the standard by which all wines are judged. When the blind tasting of the Judgment of Paris, formally known as the Paris Wine Tasting of 1976, rated a California chardonnay and cabernet sauvignon best in each category, that standard was questioned. So is it odd that winemakers from California still try to emulate the French manner of blending grapes? Not at all, as blending adds much to the structure and complexity of the wine.

Our first wine, a 2013 Carte Blanche Proprietary White Wine (originally priced at $39.99, reduced to $12.99 at the New Hampshire Liquor & Wine Outlets) is a classic white Bordeaux, inspired by the blend of 68 percent sauvignon blanc and 32 percent semillon. The sauvignon blanc grapes come from the Blau Vineyards of Knights Valley, an AVA name that is incongruous, as this AVA is at a high elevation between Napa and Sonoma counties. The semillon grapes come from the DeLorimier Vineyard of Alexander Valley, an AVA immediately west of Knights Valley. The higher elevations and cooler climates of the Knights Valley allow for slow ripening, coaxing a full range of flavors that result in this vibrant and full-bodied wine.

Nicolas Allen Wines, the maker of this exceptional white wine, is based in the Carneros region of Sonoma County, but the family that makes this wine has been in business for nearly a century. Carte Blanche is a label from the fourth generation of vineyard owners, the first being Clarence Dillon, an American financier who purchased Chateau Haut-Brion in Bordeaux, the only first-growth Bordeaux owned by Americans, the first of several other French wineries he acquired over the course of years.

At 8 years old, this is an older version of a white wine, which may contribute to its dark straw-like color and floral, yeasty nose. The semillon calms the familiar citric or grassy notes one usually encounters with a sauvignon blanc. To the tongue it is soft and buttery like a croissant. Also, in another departure from traditional American sauvignon blanc that is fermented in stainless steel tanks, this wine was barrel aged for 10 months in 20 percent new oak manufactured by the famous Taransaud barrel makers. At only 150 cases, this is an extremely low-production wine. When chilled it can stand alone,or be enjoyed with a salad or grilled fish on the patio.

Our second wine, a 2016 Petite Cote Napa Valley Red Blend (originally priced at $49.99, reduced to $22.99 at the New Hampshire Liquor & Wine Outlets) honors the heritage of Bordeaux’s finest Right Bank wines that is based on a blend of 75 percent merlot, 15 percent cabernet sauvignon and 10 percent petit verdot. Created for restaurants, the wine has a subtle nose of plum and blackberry. To the tongue it is full of notes of vanilla and chocolate, lasting in a long finish. Its tannins are present with a light, dry sense of leather. This is a wine to be enjoyed with grilled steak and will complement lamb well. It can be cellared for a few years and still retain its rich fruit.

Produced from vineyards throughout the Napa Valley with its warm days and cool nights, and with great blending skill, this wine can stand up against any production-focused Bordeaux red. Created by Jean-Charles Boisset, the Boisset Collection of wines counts among 15 California-based wineries and 13 French wineries, a true blending of cultures and expertise.

These two perfectly balanced wines are to be enjoyed with the onset of warmer weather, relaxing in the afternoon, or over an early evening dinner on the patio.

Little Pink Houses

I have a theory that the greater the classic rock anthem, the less objective sense it makes.

Remember in seventh or eighth grade? That school dance? It was probably the third or fourth one that you had gone to, but this was the first time you were brave enough to dance with someone. And, of course, you waited until the very last song, which was — obviously — “Stairway to Heaven.”

It doesn’t matter if you are a man or a woman. Or whether you were a boy or a girl at the time. Even if you haven’t thought about that moment in years, it is etched in your memory. As are a series of questions you had at the time:

Geez, how long is this song? (Just over eight minutes.)

Is there something special I’m supposed to do with my feet? (No. You’re 13. Just stay upright.)

Can this person see how much I’m sweating? (Yes.)

What’s with this weird bit at the end, where the music goes from slow, to fast, then back to slow, just long enough to make dancing incredibly awkward? (Art.)

And most importantly:

What does that whole line about a bustle in your hedgerow and the May Queen mean? (Nobody knows.)

Great song.

No objective sense, whatsoever.

While this isn’t universal, I refer you to the entire catalog of Paul Simon — or for that matter, Toto.

All of which is pretty irrelevant, except to say that this week, when I saw a little pink house, it seemed important to memorialize it. And my faded youth.

Little Pink Houses

100 grams strawberries — fresh are good, but frozen might be even better; they break down better in a drink.

4 grinds black pepper

2 ounces gin

5 to 6 ice cubes

¼ ounce white balsamic vinegar — regular balsamic will work too, but your drink will end up looking a lot like root beer.

1 ounce strawberry syrup or 2 Tablespoons strawberry jam

~3 ounces plain seltzer

Muddle the strawberries and pepper in the bottom of a cocktail shaker. If you are using frozen strawberries, you might want to let them thaw slightly first.

Add gin, stir, then walk away for five minutes. This will give the gin time to extract some of the flavors from the berries and pepper.

Add ice, vinegar and syrup/jam.

Shake thoroughly.

Pour, unstrained, into a tall glass.

Top with seltzer, and stir gently.

Garnish with songs from your playlist that will drive your children from the house.

This is a refreshing, spring-like drink. It’s not too sweet, and the notes of black pepper and balsamic vinegar keep it from tasting domesticated. It’s an outstanding Zoom meeting book club drink, but also excellent for sitting on the porch and watching the bird bath. As John (still “Cougar” then) Mellencamp would say:

Aw, but ain’t that America for you and me

Ain’t that America, somethin’ to see, baby

Ain’t that America, home of the free, yeah

Little pink houses for you and me

Oh yeah, for you and me, oh

Great song. No objective sense.

Featured photo: Little Pink Houses. Photo by John Fladd.

Beth Vine

Beth Vine of Derry, also known as The Mad Baker (themadbaker.net and on Facebook and Instagram @themadbakernh), offers fresh items baked to order like focaccia bread, butter bread, cinnamon rolls and bread bowls for soups and chowders. A self-described “stress baker,” Vine began accepting orders for her cinnamon rolls and breads last October. Orders can be placed online through the website or by emailing themadbakernh@gmail.com, with pickups at an arranged time on Fridays at The Grind (5 W. Broadway, Derry). Vine will be participating in the Derry Homegrown Farm & Artisan Market, to be held at 1 W. Broadway on Wednesdays from 3 to 7 p.m., beginning June 2.

What is your must-have kitchen item?

I always have a pastry scraper, because it cuts nicely through the dough. But I like it mostly because I use it on a pastry board that was given to me by my grandmother-in-law, who was a master pie maker in the 1950s and ’60s.

What would you have for your last meal?

Scallops in Pernod, from Street & Co. in Portland, Maine. That is the best dish that I’ve ever had in my entire life.

What is your favorite local restaurant?

I’d probably go with the East Derry Tavern. It’s right around the corner from us — I walk down there a lot with my kids. Their tandoori nachos are delicious.

What celebrity would you like to see trying something that you’ve baked?

This is sort of terrifying, but my top choice would probably be Gordon Ramsay. I’m a huge fan of his. His Thanksgiving turkey [recipe] is such a glorious way to eat a turkey, and I don’t do it any other way now.

What is your personal favorite menu item that you offer?

My favorite is definitely the focaccia bread. A fresh focaccia out of the oven is about as good as you can get.

What is the biggest food trend in New Hampshire right now?

I would say cooking at home, especially during the pandemic.

What is your favorite thing to cook or bake at home?

Honestly, I like just baking with the kids. Nothing too complicated, just cookies or brownies or whatever. It can be messy and disorganized, but it’s always a great experience and builds memories.

Beth’s “One arm chicken Parm”
Courtesy of Beth Vine of The Mad Baker in Derry (entire recipe can be made while holding a baby on one arm, as Vine, a mother of four, can attest)

Thinly sliced chicken breasts or tenders
1 egg
½ cup milk
2 cups Italian-style breadcrumbs
½ cup vegetable oil
1 jar of your favorite tomato pasta sauce
Shredded mozzarella cheese

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Whisk egg and milk together. Dip chicken in egg mixture, then dredge in breadcrumbs. Lightly fry chicken pieces in vegetable oil, just until breadcrumbs are crispy. Place in an oven-safe dish and cover with sauce. Top with shredded cheese. Bake for 25 to 30 minutes or until bubbling. Serve over your favorite type of pasta.

Featured photo: Beth Vine

Flavors of Naples

Gusto Italiano Market coming to Bedford

Pizza pies cooked in an imported Italian oven — and prepared by a fifth-generation pizza chef from Naples — will soon be available at a new spot coming to Bedford.

Gusto Italiano Market, on track to open in the coming weeks, will also be offering a variety of imported Italian items for sale, plus prepared meals, desserts and a selection of Italian wines.

The new market is the latest venture of husband and wife Matteo Ronzio and Francesca Dallora, who were both born and raised in Italy. The couple has also owned Real Italian Gusto Ristorante & Pizzeria in downtown Medford, Mass., since its October 2015 opening.

According to Dallora, she and Ronzio originally came overseas to the United States while on vacation in 2014, touring and falling in love with New England. They first settled in the Boston area before later moving up to Manchester in the summer of 2019.

“We were living in North Reading, [Mass.,] but New Hampshire was really our first love,” she said. “We were thinking also about having a second location once we moved up here.”

Last fall, Ronzio said, they came across the vacant building space on Wallace Road in nearby Bedford, a spot most recently occupied by The Wine’ing Butcher before its closure in 2019.

Unlike the couple’s Massachusetts location, which operates as a traditional dine-in Italian restaurant, the new space in Bedford will follow more of a grab-and-go concept. Imported items like cheeses, boxed pastas and bottled wines and olive oils will be available for sale out of a retail space. Ronzio said scratch-made meals like meatballs, lasagna and eggplant Parmigiana will also be prepared at Real Italian Gusto and brought up to Bedford for sale to go.

But Gusto Italiano Market will make a number of other items in house too, among them the Neapolitan-style pizzas. Plans are in the works to bring in a Valoriani-brand dome oven from Italy not available for sale in the United States, according to Ronzio. Ciro Langella, Real Italian Gusto’s chef, will come up to Bedford to help with the market’s opening once the oven arrives.

“Ciro is a fifth-generation pizza maker from Italy,” Dallora said. “He actually already had another place in Beverly, [Mass.,] where he was making pizzas before he joined us.”

Through a connection with the True Neapolitan Pizza Association in Naples, Dallora and Ronzio are also hiring Giovanni Russo, himself a third-generation pizza maker, to work with the oven.

Gusto Italiano Market’s pizza menu will be similar to that of its Massachusetts predecessor — the traditional margherita pizza, for instance, features fresh tomato sauce, mozzarella cheese and basil, while other options will include an Italian meatball lover’s pizza with ricotta, mozzarella, arugula and cherry tomatoes, and a pizza with grilled eggplant, peppers and zucchini. Dallora said a special pizza topping will also likely be created just for the Bedford space.

A few bar seats will be available by the pizza oven, with additional seating outdoors expected during the summer months. Ronzio said third-party delivery will also likely be an option soon.

Gusto Italiano Market
An opening date is expected in the coming weeks. Visit their website or email them for updates.
Where: 254 Wallace Road, Unit B, Bedford
Hours: TBA
More info: Visit gustoitalianomarket.com, or email gustoitalianomarket@gmail.com

Featured photo: Margherita pizza. Courtesy photo.

Braising the steaks

Local chef to release new meat-focused cookbook

Milford chef Keith Sarasin of The Farmers Dinner has written three books since 2018 — his latest, available May 18, is a whopping 800 pages filled with recipes using all kinds of meats, from beef, pork and poultry to lamb, goat and several species of wild game.

But more than a traditional recipe book, Meat: The Ultimate Cookbook also contains a variety of easy-to-learn techniques for the home cook, in addition to stories from local chefs and farmers Sarasin has worked with. Signed copies can be pre-ordered now through his website.

Structurally, the book is broken down into sections by protein, totaling more than 300 recipes with accompanying photography. Various guides and descriptions are provided, on everything from how to carve cooked meat to the different types of cuts you might use, as well as the importance of letting meat rest during the cooking process.

“There are some beautiful sections on techniques like braising for some of the tougher cuts, and stuff on how to break down parts of the animal properly,” Sarasin said. “There’s a subsection on burgers with some fun flavors … and then the pork section is massive with a lot of recipes. … There are tons of demis and sauces in there too that elevate so many dishes to another level.”

Sarasin, who has a passion for Indian cuisine, noted the diversity of recipes and concepts throughout the book. Chicken tikka masala and lamb vindaloo are among the featured dishes, as well as a masala braised short rib sandwich with cilantro chutney and Indian spices to give it an extra kick. Others include a rib-eye with salsa verde and porcini mushroom salt, and a rosemary and mustard marinated leg of lamb that’s garnished with parsley.

“There are a lot of nods to many different cuisines, from Korean to Indian to Chinese,” he said.

Sarasin also delves into less commonly consumed meats like venison, pheasant, rabbit and duck.

“It goes into things about how cooking duck breast is different from chicken breast, so woven in are some techniques there,” he said. “Those definitely have some Asian influence, like Peking duck.”

Featured farmers in the book include Noah Bicchieri of Arkhive Farm in Chester, which raises its own wagyu beef, and Carole Soule of Miles Smith Farm in Loudon, which offers its own grass-fed beef, locally raised lamb and pastured pork and poultry.

“The publishers … really gave me the freedom to do some creative things, and so I started contacting some farms that I knew I wanted to highlight in the book,” Sarasin said. “Some of these farms are real gems that not a lot of people know about.”

Several other chefs receive mention in the book too. George Bezanson of Earth’s Harvest Kitchen & Juicery in Dover contributed what Sarasin calls his “famous” pork belly, while Justin Dain, former executive chef of Pine at the Hanover Inn, shares a burger recipe.

Masala braised short rib sandwich with cilantro chutney
Courtesy of Keith Sarasin, as seen in his new book Meat: The Ultimate Cookbook (serves at least 4)

3 pounds bone-in short ribs
Salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste
1 Tablespoon canola oil
1 large sweet onion, sliced
5 cloves garlic, minced
1 teaspoon garam masala
1 teaspoon curry powder
½ teaspoon red pepper powder
1 teaspoon cumin powder
1 teaspoon coriander powder
Kosher salt
1 16-ounce can tomatoes (or two large fresh tomatoes, chopped)
1 teaspoon grated fresh ginger
4 cups beef broth
2 cups water
2 tablespoons cilantro chutney

Season the short ribs generously with salt. Heat the canola oil in a heavy-bottomed pot, over medium-high heat. Add the short ribs, working in batches if necessary, and brown on all sides (about 2 to 3 minutes per side). Remove and reserve. Add the onions and saute until beginning to brown (about 3 to 4 minutes). Stir in the garlic, ginger and tomatoes. Cook for about one minute, then add the cumin, curry powder, garam masala, red pepper and coriander powder. Pour in the beef stock to deglaze the pot. Scrape all the browned bits from the bottom of the pan. Cook until the stock has reduced to about half. Add the short ribs back into the pot. Cover, lower the heat to a simmer, and cook for two hours or until tender. Once tender, let it rest for 20 minutes. Slice out the bone from the short rib, and assemble the sandwich with a bit of cilantro chutney on top.

Meat: The Ultimate Cookbook, by Keith Sarasin
Available May 18 through Amazon, Simon & Schuster, or wherever books are sold. Visit keithsarasin.com to pre-order a signed copy.

Aatma pop-up dinner series
Since launching The Farmers Dinner in 2012, Keith Sarasin has hosted nearly 100 farm-to-table events across New England in collaboration with other chefs, raising more than $125,000 collectively for local farms. In tandem with its ninth season, Sarasin is now also hosting a pop-up tasting experience specializing in food from the Indian subcontinent.
Aatma, named after the Hindi word meaning “soul,” is a new collaboration between Sarasin and Tarun Bangalore, a graduate of the Culinary Institute of America and chef of Indian origin.
“We’re taking modern plating concepts and techniques and essentially fusing them with regional Indian cuisine,” Sarasin said. “We want to teach people that Indian food is more than butter chicken and samosas. It’s so much more diverse than that.”
While Aatma’s debut dinners scheduled for May 16 and May 17 are sold out, more are expected to be announced in the coming weeks and months. Visit thefarmersdinner.com/aatma or follow them on Facebook and Instagram for updates.

Feautred photo: Meat: The Ultimate Cookbook is the third book from Chef Keith Sarasin of Milford, owner of The Farmer’s Dinner farm-to-table pop-up dinner series. Courtesy photo.

The Weekly Dish 21/05/13

News from the local food scene

• More Greek eats to go: Join St. George Greek Orthodox Cathedral (650 Hanover St., Manchester) for its next Taste of Glendi event on Saturday, May 15, from 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. This will be another “Gyro Day” drive-thru pickup event similar to what the church held last fall, where attendees can get a meal featuring a gyro with a lamb and beef mixture on pita bread with lettuce, tomato and tzatziki sauce, a bag of chips and a drink for $10 per person (payment is by cash only; no advance ordering necessary). If you can’t make St. George’s event, Assumption Greek Orthodox Church (111 Island Pond Road, Manchester) is holding its next drive-thru food fest on Saturday, May 22, from 11:30 a.m. to 3 p.m., with orders being accepted now through May 18. This month’s menu is all about grilled meats, featuring items like open-face lamb and beef gyro plates or grilled chicken souvlaki plates, as well as tossed Greek salads with the option to add chicken or gyro meat. The church will also be selling desserts and pastries, like loukoumades (fried dough balls), homemade Greek rice pudding, and koulourakia (crisp braided butter cookies). This event is also pickup only (stay in your car; no walk-ins). Visit foodfest.assumptionnh.org.

• Henniker market returns: The Henniker Community Market will kick off its outdoor season on Thursday, May 20, from 4 to 7 p.m. in the town’s Community Center park (57 Main St.), coordinator Monica Rico confirmed. The market will continue every Thursday during those times through Oct. 21, and is expected to feature a variety of local vendors throughout the season selling fresh produce, meats, artisan products and more. Find them on Facebook @hennikercommunitymarket.

• The Beach Plum opens in Salem: The Beach Plum, a local eatery known for its fried seafood and ice cream options as well as lobster rolls, foot-long hot dogs, burgers, sandwiches and chowders, opened its newest year-round location on May 1 in Salem’s Tuscan Village plaza (8 S. Village Drive). This is The Beach Plum’s fourth location — the others are in Epping and Portsmouth, both of which are open year-round, and in North Hampton, which is typically open from March to October. The Salem location is open Sunday through Thursday, from 11 a.m. to 9 p.m., and Friday and Saturday, from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Visit thebeachplum.net/salem to view their menu.

• Historical brews: The Whipple Free Library in New Boston is partnering with New Hampshire Humanities to present Brewing in New Hampshire: An Informal History of Beer in the Granite State from Colonial Times to the Present, a virtual event set for Thursday, May 20, at 7 p.m. via Zoom. Presenter Glenn Knoblock will explore the history of New Hampshire’s beer and ale brewing industry from the colonial days, when it was more home- and tavern-based, to the modern breweries and brewpubs of today. Several lesser-known brewers of New Hampshire will be discussed, including the only brewery owned and operated by a woman before the modern era. Admission is free. Visit nhhumanities.org to register — you’ll then be emailed a Zoom link prior to the talk.

On The Job – Mary Sargent

Mary Sargent

Family mediator, Mary Sargent Mediation

Mary Sargent is a certified family mediator based in Bedford.

Explain your job and what it entails.

The conflicts I mediate are largely divorce and parenting [issues]. … I help parties dispute and negotiate toward agreements by facilitating healthy, productive conversation that may or may not [end in] an agreement. I make sure that people are hearing and understanding each other, and that they have all the information they need to make a decision. Then, I help them put [their decision] in whatever form is needed, whether it’s a court order or a contract or a simple agreement.

How long have you had this job?

Twelve years.

What led you to this career field and your current job?

Over the years, I’ve held a lot of different positions within family work — Child Protective Services worker, guardian ad litem, case manager — and at the core of all of those positions is identifying areas of problems, disputes and conflicts. … I was seeing a lot of people in a lot of pain because they were trying so hard to avoid an issue when what they really needed to do was resolve the issue. … I realized that mediation allows an opportunity to address a problem head-on … and really drill down to the heart of it, rather than trying to avoid, deny or work around it.

What kind of education or training did you need?

I have a bachelor’s degree, and I’ve had extensive training through certificate programs. In New Hampshire, you have to go through a certification class and an internship to [become certified].

What is your typical at-work uniform or attire?

Business casual.

How has your job changed over the last year?

Prior to Covid, the very idea of doing [mediation] remotely was controversial, industry-wide … but, ultimately, we were forced into it, and I do the vast majority of my work remotely. I’ve found that it actually solves more problems than it creates. It can be difficult for people who are in conflict with one another to sit at a table in the same room. It’s a little easier for them and mitigates some of the anticipatory anxiety if they can be in the comfort of their own home where they aren’t in close physical proximity to each other.

What do you wish you’d known at the beginning of your career?

How hard it would be and how long it would take to build a practice and make a name for myself. A lot of people didn’t even know what mediation was, so getting them to buy into mediation, and then to find me [was hard].

What do you wish other people knew about your job?

Mediators don’t make decisions. … A lot of times people come to me and say, ‘We need your help in deciding what is fair,’ and I tell them, ‘I have no idea.’ We can guide people … [in having] a productive conversation, but we can’t determine what is or isn’t fair for them. The fair and equitable [outcome] is whatever they agree on as being fair and equitable.

What was the first job you ever had?

Summer camp counselor.

What’s the best piece of work-related advice you’ve ever received?

Be mindful of the present, and assume there’s space for an agreement, even if you don’t know what that looks like yet.

Five favorites
Favorite book: To Kill a Mockingbird
Favorite movie: The Birdcage
Favorite music: Showtunes
Favorite food: Pizza
Favorite thing about NH: Lake Winnipesaukee

Featured photo: Mary Sargent. Courtesy photo.

Treasure Hunt 21/05/13

Dear Donna,
I found this small horse charm and it says “Black Horse Ale NY.” It’s only 1 1/2” x 1” and is made of plastic. Can you give me any information and a possible value?

Lynne

Dear Lynne,
I did some research on your horse charm and found out it was an advertising charm for Black Horse Ale. The story is a very interesting one but a long one as well; if you’ve got the time I would encourage you to do some research online to read the story of Black Horse Ale and see how one tiny plastic charm has such a history.

The interesting thing to me about this charm, and other small collectibles, is how did such a tiny piece even survive to today?

The value on it is in the $25 range but the history is priceless. I know that collecting charms from gum machines, cereals, Cracker Jack and premiums is still happening today. What’s amazing is how many old ones are still out there and the stories that go behind them.

Stay in the loop!

Get FREE weekly briefs on local food, music,

arts, and more across southern New Hampshire!