Category: Food

The Weekly Dish 22/04/28

News from the local food scene

• Greek eats to go: There’s still time to get your order in for the Greek food festival pop-up event at St. Philip Greek Orthodox Church (500 W. Hollis St., Nashua) — online orders are being accepted now through April 30, with pickups on Saturday, May 14, normally the church’s festival weekend. Featured items include pastitsio (Greek lasagna), keftedes (Greek meatballs) and spanakopita (spinach pie), which can all be ordered as dinners with rice and Greek string beans baked in a tomato sauce. Those same dinner-sized portions can also be ordered a la carte, as well as the church’s own freshly baked baklava — that comes in a pack of four per order. Visit nashuagreekfestival.com to order, where you’ll choose a pickup time between 11 a.m. and 7 p.m. For more details, check out our story on the event, which is on page 25 of the April 21 issue of the Hippo. Visit issuu.com/hippopress to download the e-edition for free.

• Cajun flavors: Join the Franco-American Centre for a special Cajun Night, happening on Saturday, April 30, at 6 p.m. at the Alpine Club (175 Putnam St., Manchester). In addition to a variety of Cajun options served buffet style, the event will feature a cash bar, door prizes, games, karaoke and more. Admission is $20 for Franco-American Centre members and $25 for non-members. The Franco-American Centre’s inaugural Franco Foods Fleur Délices challenge, held earlier this month, was a success and will likely return next year, according to event organizer and office manager Nathalie Hirte. Visit facnh.com.

• African celebrations: Save the date for a Taste of Africa event being held at Mola Foods (9 Simon St., Nashua) on Friday, May 6, from 6:30 to 9:30 p.m. The event was added due to the high demand and fast sellout of a similar tasting held on April 22, according to a press release. Guests will be able to enjoy a variety of traditional meat and vegan dishes hailing from different parts of Africa, in addition to wines from Averill House Vineyard in Brookline and live music from Les Blazeurs. “The response to Taste of Africa has been wonderful, so that’s why I’m hosting another one,” Mola Foods founder and Cameroon native LaFortune Jeannette Djabea said in a statement. “This is a chance to experience African cuisine and culture in a comfortable, cozy environment.” Tickets to the event are $40 per person. Visit molafoods.com.

• A bittersweet farewell: After nearly three decades in business, Manchester’s Candy Kingdom will permanently close its doors on Saturday, April 30, as owners Phyllis and Richard Capers get set to retire, according to a notice on the shop’s website and Facebook page. “There are no words to express our gratitude to all of our past employees, friends and customers who helped make this dream come true,” the post reads in part. “You have given us so many wonderful friendships and memories that we will take with us always.” Now through their final day open, Candy Kingdom will be offering 50 percent off its entire inventory. Visit candykingdom.shop.

Beer-braised carnitas

The best tacos on the planet?

Imagine crispy, yet tender, bits of pork exploding with savory, sweet flavors in every bite. Next, imagine a super-simple cooking process that is borderline impossible to mess up and results in perhaps the best taco base in existence.

I’m talking about pork carnitas and while we’re at it, let’s make them with beer. Beer adds complexity and flavor to the meat as it cooks slowly, tenderizing in its own juices. Also, I think, and I can’t promise this is accurate, beer actually aids in the tenderization process, helping the meat get where you want to go faster.

Making carnitas, which translates to “little meats” in Spanish, is really more process than recipe. First you braise chunks of pork until tender, and then you crisp up the tender chunks. My understanding is that traditionally the meat is fried in its own fat until tender before it is deposited into tacos.

I’ve followed a bunch of different recipes and I’ve never been disappointed. I’ve made them with a variety of seasonings and braising liquids, including chicken broth, beer, white wine, cider, and a mixture of orange and milk — they’re all winners.

If you choose a lighter brew like a Mexican lager, such as Revuelta by Able Ebenezer Brewing Co. in Merrimack, it will impart some pleasing funkiness. A hard cider, such as Wild Thing by Contoocook Cider Co. in Contoocook, adds a little fruitiness and acidity that helps balance a pretty rich final product. A stout would impart more richness but I’d lean toward a drier stout so it doesn’t overpower the dish.

For carnitas, you need to use pork butt, which is actually pork shoulder. The meat is quite fatty and filled with connective tissue, which requires long cooking times to break down.

Start by searing the meat in a big Dutch oven, add the seasonings you like, add your braising liquid, and then either slowly simmer it on the stovetop, or cook it covered in the oven or in a crockpot until the meat is tender.

Once the meat is tender, you drain off the braising liquid and either fry up the tender chunks until crispy on the stovetop or, and this is what I prefer, crisp up the meat in a screaming hot oven or under the broiler. It’s just easier, more consistent, and less messy.

Smash your crispy bits of pork into a warmed tortilla and top with whatever you want: salsa, fresh lime juice, sour cream, cheese, lettuce, pickled onions, and so on. I do think less is more when it comes to toppings here.

Here’s just one way to make carnitas.

Pork Carnitas

  • 3 to 4 pounds boneless pork butt, cut into 2-inch cubes
  • 1 Tablespoon ground cumin
  • 1 Tablespoon chili powder
  • 1 teaspoon cayenne pepper
  • 3 or 4 garlic cloves, smashed
  • 1 Tablespoon kosher salt, probably more
  • 1 bay leaf
  • 1 teaspoon ground black pepper
  • 3/4 teaspoon cinnamon
  • 12 ounces beer, preferably craft-brewed in New Hampshire
  • Vegetable oil, for searing

Heat a pot with a heavy bottom over high heat. Once hot, add a tablespoon or two of vegetable oil. Sear chunks of pork in batches, don’t crowd, until browned all over. Add all ingredients and bring to a simmer. Maintain a simmer, either over low heat on the stovetop or in a 350-degree oven, for about 3 hours until the meat is fork tender. Strain meat and remove garlic cloves and bay leaf. Arrange meat in a broiler-safe pan, drizzle over a few tablespoons of the braising liquid, and broil on high heat for about 10 minutes, turning halfway, until the meat is richly browned and crispy. You could also do this last step in a super-hot oven if you don’t have a broiler. Smash 2 or 3 chunks into a warm tortilla and top however you like.

What’s in My Fridge
Double Clip Double IPA by Stoneface Brewing Co. (Newington)
I’m sure I’ve had this before but somehow, maybe not? As my brother-in-law remarked as we cracked open a couple of these, “This is delicious.” It’s big, juicy and bold but the finish is quite smooth. Cheers.

Featured photo. Make pork carnitas. Photo by Frankie Lopez.

Warm butternut and apple salad

Salad season is almost here! Yes, I know salads are all-year food items, but the warmth of summer makes them so much more enjoyable. As we navigate the transition from cold winter to hot summer, this is the perfect salad to serve. It’s veggie-centric but served warm, making it a good choice for a warm spring day and cool evening.

This salad does require a bit more prep time than your typical salad recipe. First, you have three different ingredients that require dicing. Then you have roasting time for the squash, onions and apple. Finally, you need to cook the pancetta. This is not meant as a deterrent; rather this info is shared so that you plan adequately. From start to finish, you need about 45 minutes to an hour.

The time and effort are well worth it. This salad has a nice mix of textures and flavors.

Warm butternut and apple salad
Serves 4

¼ cup cider vinegar
2 Tablespoons maple syrup
1 teaspoon dried sage
1½ pounds butternut squash, peeled & seeded*
1 small sweet onion
1½ Tablespoons olive oil
4 ounces pancetta
1 apple, core removed
salt & pepper

Preheat oven to 400 degrees.
Combine vinegar and maple syrup in a small saucepan; bring to a boil.
Reduce heat slightly, stirring occasionally until reduced by half.
Stir sage into dressing, and set aside.
Dice squash into 1-inch cubes.
Slice onion into small wedges.
Combine 3 cups squash and onion on a rimmed baking sheet
Drizzle with 1 tablespoon oil, and toss to coat fully.
Bake for 15 minutes.
While squash and onions cook, dice pancetta into small pieces
Heat a frying pan over medium; cook diced pancetta for 3 to 5 minutes or until crispy.
Drain pancetta on a paper towel-lined plate.
Dice apple into 1-inch cubes.
Drizzle apple cubes with remaining 1/2 tablespoon oil, and toss to coat.
After baking for 15 minutes, remove tray from oven.
Add apple to tray, return to oven, and bake for an additional 5 minutes.
Transfer squash, onion and apples to a large bowl.
Pour reduced dressing over it; stir well.
Top with pancetta.
Serve.

  • Save leftover squash for another recipe.

Featured Photo: Warm butternut and apple salad. Photo by Michele Pesula Kuegler.

In the kitchen with Saurav Goel

Saurav Goel of Nashua is the general manager of Raga Contemporary Kitchen (138 Main St., Nashua, 459-8566, find them on Facebook @raganashua), overseeing its kitchen and bar operations. Raga opened in downtown Nashua last October, its menu made up of a variety of items inspired by Indian street foods. Options include a selection of curries, like tikka masala and korma masala, as well as various starters, burgers and wraps. There is also an emphasis on cocktails, which feature many of the same ingredients traditionally used in Indian cooking — Streets of Mumbai, for instance, is a vodka-based cocktail handcrafted with fresh ginger and curry leaves, while American Dreams is smoked with bourbon and a blend of amaretto and fresh lime. Raga, which gets its name from the Sanskrit word meaning “melody,” is known for featuring a regular schedule of live music every week, including acoustic acts on Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays, jazz performers on Sundays and karaoke nights on Tuesdays.

What is your must-have kitchen item?

I would say a santoku knife. Santoku, in Japanese, means it is a “three virtues” knife. It is used in the kitchen for cutting, slicing and chopping … so that’s why it’s very handy and useful.

What would you have for your last meal?

A humble bowl of kadhi pakora and rice, which is a traditional dish from Northern India.

What is your favorite local restaurant?

I’m very new [to the area] … so I haven’t experienced many local eateries, but one which I really like is Bagel Alley. That’s one of my favorites.

What celebrity would you like to see eating in your restaurant?

Without a doubt, Gordon Ramsay. I consider him a mentor in many ways.

What is your favorite thing on your menu?

The Delhi aloo chaat is probably one of my favorites. … They are basically potato fritters, stuffed with lentils, finished with a dollop of fresh yogurt, sweet and sour chutneys, freshly chopped onion and tomato, and then garnished with fried vermicelli.

What is the biggest food trend in New Hampshire right now?

I think more and more people are moving toward vegetarian or vegan [items]. … We get a lot of guests every single day who are asking for vegetarian or vegan options, and they are really happy to see that we have so many of them on our menu.

What is your favorite thing to cook at home?

I like to cook dhal fry, which is an Indian dish with lentils, and some steamed rice. It’s the easiest and the healthiest thing that I would prepare at home.

Mint chutney (mint dipping sauce)
Courtesy of Saurav Goel of Raga Contemporary Kitchen in Nashua

2 cups mint leaves
1 cup cilantro
2 green chili peppers
1 Tablespoon grated ginger
1 Tablespoon lemon juice
1 Tablespoon sugar
Salt to taste
½ cup water

Add all ingredients to a blender. Blend at low speed until the ingredients start to mix, then increase the speed and blend into a smooth paste. Stop and stir the ingredients a couple of times if necessary.

Featured photo: Saurav Goel. Courtesy photo.

Greek eats return

Nashua’s St. Philip Church presents pop-up event

Last October, St. Philip Greek Orthodox Church in Nashua held a first-come, first-served gyro and baklava pop-up, its first food event in a year, and it far exceeded organizers’ expectations.

“We sold out twice during the day, had to make an emergency run to get more supplies … and still ended up having to close up,” said Christina Eftimiou, who co-chaired the pop-up with fellow parishioner Tina Alexopoulos. “I think we really underestimated just how much people missed having our annual festival and the Greek food that we put out.”

A second pop-up highlighting Greek pastries and cookies followed, just ahead of the holiday season, and was also a resounding success. Now, Eftimiou and Alexopoulos are organizing a new pre-ordering event featuring more favorites like pastitsio (Greek lasagna), keftedes (Greek meatballs) and spanakopita (spinach pie). Online orders are available now through April 30, with pickups on Saturday, May 14, coincidentally falling on the church’s normal festival weekend.

“We didn’t want people to not be able to get the food that they wanted,” Eftimiou said, “so at least by having the pre-order end about two weeks before the actual pickup date, we’re going to be able to make exactly what we need so that everyone who places their order is going to get it.”

Planning for this new pop-up began in February. When coming up with a menu, Eftimiou said she and Alexopoulos looked both at what some of the bigger sellers were from previous events, and which items they could produce in bulk and in a reasonable amount of time. The pastitsio, keftedes and spanakopita are all available to order as dinners with rice and Greek string beans baked in a tomato sauce. Those same dinner-sized portions can also be ordered a la carte.

Spanakopita. Courtesy photo.

Pastitsio is a Greek-based pasta dish with ground beef and a béchamel sauce. The keftedes, also prepared using beef, are cooked in a tomato sauce and come three per order, while the spanakopita has layers of spinach and feta cheese. The church’s own freshly baked baklava, made from an old recipe, is also on the menu a la carte — that comes in a pack of four per order.

A cookbook of recipes collected by the church’s Agape Ladies Society is being sold too.

When ordering through the website, you’ll choose a pickup time between 11 a.m. and 7 p.m.

“We’re trying to plan so that the food is coming out of the oven fresh, so that we’re able to package and deliver it to people hot and ready to go,” Eftimiou said.

Next year will mark the church’s 50th anniversary. Eftimiou said she hopes the festival can be brought back to its traditional format by then, and a gala is also in the planning stages for the fall.

Greek food festival pop-up

When: Pre-orders are available now through April 30; pickups will be on Saturday, May 14, between 11 a.m. and 7 p.m.
Where: St. Philip Greek Orthodox Church, 500 W. Hollis St., Nashua
Cost: Foods are priced per item; see ordering form for details
Visit: nashuagreekfestival.com

Featured photo: Pastitsio (Greek lasagna). Courtesy photo.

Culinary creativity

Fire & Fusion chef competition returns

A timed cooking challenge involving four “mystery” ingredients — think Food Network’s Chopped — the Fire & Fusion executive chef competition pits local chefs against one another to create their best dishes in under 30 minutes before a live audience. The event returns for its ninth year on Wednesday, May 4, at the Alpine Grove Banquet Facility in Hollis, and will also feature a People’s Choice appetizer challenge.

Fire & Fusion was last held in person in 2019, although a virtual iteration of the cooking challenge featuring pre-recorded video of the chefs in action did take place in the fall of 2020.

“We’re super excited to have it back in person,” said Judy Porter, director of marketing, communications and development for the Nashua Senior Activity Center, which hosts the event. “People just love to feel the energy in that room. They want to see what the chefs are doing and they want to smell the food … [and] if they’ve never gone before, they’ll just be blown away.”

female chef preparing food at outside table during event
Courtesy photo.

Each of the nine participating chefs currently works in senior, long-term care or assisted living facilities in the area, and that’s by design, Porter said. Six are taking on the timed challenge, while three additional chefs are competing in the People’s Choice round only.

“That was really the genesis of this event, was to show and let the public taste the food from the health care community,” Porter said. “I think back in everyone’s memory, we have this image in our minds of health care food not being very good or having a ton of flavor … and so we wanted to show people that things have changed. … Especially amongst assisted living, you want to have really top-notch food, because for a lot of people it’s a high point of their day.”

The evening will begin at 6 p.m. with a wide selection of both hot and cold appetizers provided by each of the chefs, who are encouraged to bring cuisine as part of this year’s theme, “A Night in Monte Carlo.” Guests can meet the chefs, sample various items and vote on their favorite to win the People’s Choice Award. The unveiling of the mystery ingredients, courtesy of celebrity judge Nicole Barreira of Great New Hampshire Restaurants, will then take place at 7 p.m.

The ingredients themselves are kept a secret right up until the night of the event, Porter said, but will typically consist of one meat and some other uncommon items. The chefs have 30 minutes and must incorporate all four of them into their dish to serve to the judges.

“We’ll have it all being broadcast on two big screens, plus people can get up and walk around the outside of the table areas [to] see what the chefs are doing and ask them questions,” she said.

2 chefs preparing h'ours d'oeuvres at event table
Courtesy photo

This year’s roster includes both new and returning contestants. Rejean Sheehy of The Courville at Nashua, a previous Fire & Fusion champion and three-time People’s Choice award winner, is back this year, and so is Guy Streitburger of The Arbors of Bedford, who was awarded “Top Chef” in the 2020 virtual competition. James LeBlanc of Bedford Falls, Bailey Bocci of Bridges by Epoch at Nashua, Celina Saccardo of Nashua Crossings, and Jim Younce of the Hunt Community will each also be showcasing their culinary creativity.

Longtime radio personality and author Mike Morin is returning as the event’s host. Judges, in addition to Barreira, will include WMUR anchor Sean McDonald, New Hampshire Magazine columnist Susan Laughlin and meteorologist and Realtor Josh Judge.

Raffle tickets will also be sold throughout the evening for the chance to win one of more than two dozen deluxe themed gift baskets. Prizes include everything from sports memorabilia to vacation getaway tickets, gift certificates, specialty food items and more.

9th annual Fire & Fusion executive chef competition
When: Wednesday, May 4, 6 to 9 p.m.
Where: Alpine Grove Banquet Facility, 19 S. Depot Road, Hollis
Cost: $50 per person, or $450 for a reserved table of 10 (early admission VIP tickets are $60 per person and $550 per table of 10 and get you into the event at 5:15 p.m.)
More info: Visit nashuaseniorcenter.org, or call the office at 816-2642 to purchase tickets

Featured photo: Courtesy photo.

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