Sweet deal

Greek pastries and custom cakes at new Raymond bakery

Reni Mylonas found success in 2020 as a homestead baker, dabbling in custom-order cakes and tapping into her Greek roots with pastries and cookies. Two years later, the Danville native has expanded into a new storefront in nearby Raymond, offering Greek favorites using recipes passed down in her family, along with other grab-and-go treats.

Agape Cakes & Confections, named after the Greek word meaning “love,” celebrated its grand opening April 9 with a menu of cupcakes, bars, macarons, cake popsicles and more. The new shop is in the Cozy Corner plaza on Route 27, giving Mylonas a permanent spot to sell out of for the first time. She’ll also be making authentic Greek pastries part of her regular lineup of sweets.

“My grandparents were born in Greece … and my dad was as well, so I grew up in a very Greek household,” she said. “I’ve grown up eating all these pastries, so it’s fun to share with everyone and to introduce them to those who haven’t had a chance to try some of them.”

A self-taught cake decorator, Mylonas started baking around the age of 9. She gained experience working in a few local shops along the way, most recently at Love + Flour Bakery in Salem.

When she started Agape not long after the pandemic shutdown, it was friends and family that mostly made up her customer base. Word of her talents quickly spread through social media.

Nearly every day out of the shop’s case, available treats include six-inch and eight-inch cakes; rotating flavors of cupcakes, macarons, bars, and Mylonas’s own homemade Greek baklava.

“I actually individually roll all of the pieces, so they are just like little logs, essentially, as opposed to one full tray that you cut into triangles,” she said. “It’s a bit harder to make, but I find that it’s a better product. … You also don’t want too much syrup, but you want enough where it’s coated on the inside and outside, where it’s almost moist and chewy but in a good way.”

With the help of her grandmother, Mylonas offers galaktoboureko, a custard-filled dessert wrapped in phyllo dough, as well as various types of Greek cookies, like kourabiedes (rose shortbread cookies coated in powdered sugar), koulourakia (butter cookies with a hint of vanilla) and melomakarona (spiced cookies soaked in syrup and topped with walnuts and sugar).

A wholesale area of the shop features ground and bean coffee from Coco’s Coffee, a small-batch single-origin roaster out of East Kingston. Other items for sale include Chocofreta, a brand of imported Greek chocolate bars, as well as honey sesame sticks and Greek evil eye pendants.

“It’s like a protection eye that you can hang up. We have them in our house, or you can put them on a keychain,” Mylonas said of the pendants. “It’s part of our culture [and] it’s meant to deflect negative energy. … I also have some mugs that I sell as a pack with Greek tea cookies.”

Mylonas plans to continue accepting custom cake and cupcake orders while also operating the storefront. Her next business venture for Agape will be in the form of a mobile cupcake trailer, which she hopes to have on the road to rent for private parties, weddings and public events like fairs by this summer.

Agape Cakes & Confections

Where: 59 Route 27, Unit 5, Raymond
Hours: Wednesday through Saturday, 10 a.m. to 6 p.m., and Sunday, 8 a.m. to 2 p.m.
More info: Visit agapecandc.com, email [email protected], or follow them on Facebook @agapecakesandconfections and Instagram @agape_cakesandconfections

Featured photo: Photo courtesy of Agape Cakes & Confections.

The Weekly Dish 22/04/14

News from the local food scene

Easter sweets: Join Assumption Greek Orthodox Church (111 Island Pond Road, Manchester) for a walk-in Easter bake sale organized by the Ladies Philoptochos Society that’s scheduled for Saturday, April 16, from 9 a.m. to noon inside its church hall. Spinach and cheese petas, Easter bread and Greek cookies and pastries like baklava, kourabiedes, finikia and koulourakia will all be available. For more ideas on how to celebrate Easter Sunday this weekend, check out our annual listings that ran in the April 7 issue; they begin on page 24. You’ll find dozens of special brunch menus and specialty treat offerings at local restaurants and bakeries, as well as candy and chocolate shops that have you covered for those Easter baskets. Go to issuu.com/hippopress and click on the April 7 issue to read the e-edition for free. Contact each establishment directly for the most up-to-date availability on reservations and takeout items.

Cheers to beers: New Hampshire Craft Beer Week wraps up its final days now through Saturday, April 16 — go to nhbrewers.org or follow the Facebook page @nhcraftbeerweek for the most up-to-date happenings, as new events are posted daily. Presented by the New Hampshire Brewers Association, which represents the more than 80 licensed craft breweries statewide, Craft Beer Week celebrates local beer culture with a 10-day stretch of special releases, brewery anniversary parties and other special events, as well as various collaborative social media efforts to keep the community connected and engaged. Tickets are also now available for the Association’s highly anticipated Keep NH Brewing Festival, returning for the first time in three years on Saturday, July 9, at the Everett Arena Waterfront Park in Concord. General admission is from 1 to 4 p.m., with VIP admission an hour earlier, at noon.

Newick’s closes Concord restaurant: Local seafood staple Newick’s Lobster House has permanently closed its Concord location, according to a message recently posted to its Facebook page. “The building did not fit with the direction we are moving, and our lease is coming to an end,” the post reads in part. “We have been looking for a new location but have yet to find one.” The eatery’s original location at Dover Point will remain open, the post said. Visit newicks.com or follow them on Facebook for updates.

Have a kolsch

It just tastes like beer

“I thought it was time to shake things up,” my friend said as he walked back onto the patio somehow hanging on and balancing several hefty, frozen steins full of borderline overflowing suds.

“I just asked for something light and crisp — and really good,” he said.

This instance occurred during a gloriously sunny afternoon this past September, just a perfect day for relaxing with a few beers and some friends. We’d had a couple big IPAs and frankly, he was right, it was time to shake things up.

Lifting the stein with some trouble, I took my first sip. It was certainly light and crisp, but it was also quite flavorful. A light golden pour, the brew had a dry, extremely refreshing finish with minimal bitterness. This beer was begging for mouthfuls, not just little sips. It was incredibly drinkable.

Sure, some of it was the bracing, welcome change from a super-hoppy IPA to something much, much lighter, but it was also just a tremendous reminder that sometimes there’s nothing more pleasing than drinking a beer that tastes like a beer.

On the way out, we asked the bartender about the beer style and determined it was a local, craft-brewed kolsch.

I’ve written about Pilsners before and have always kind of pretended Pilsners and kolsches are the same thing, and while they’re similar they’re not the same. Pilsners tend to be a little more hoppy, a little more bitter. Kolsches tend to be even lower in ABV but they still feature plenty of flavor.

Craftbeer.com tells me the kolsch is technically a hybrid style of beer that marries elements of ale and lager production. Craftbeer.com also tells me the style “pairs best with bratwurst, nutty cheeses, and even lighter desserts like apricot cake,” and while I’m sure that’s on point, I think it pairs best with sitting outside on a warm, sunny day and a giant, frozen stein.

This is a style you can drink any time of the year but I think it’s best to get it onto your radar now, because I suspect you’ll be drinking it at cookouts and at the beach all summer long.

The reality is the kolsch is particularly versatile: it goes well with just about any food and any circumstance.

New Hampshire craft brewers haven’t ignored the style, which is great news for beer enthusiasts.

I loved the Herkules by Schilling Beer Co. and the Henniker Kolsch Style Ale by Henniker Brewing Co. is another wonderful rendition of the style. Perpetual Grüven by Great Rhythm Brewing in Portsmouth is terrific as well, as is Paradise Valley by Granite Roots Brewing in Troy.

The kolsch is the quintessential “better grab a frozen glass” beer, so get some glasses in the freezer, preferably steins, and get ready for some mouthfuls of bright, crisp, refreshing beer.

What’s in My Fridge
Grolsch Premium Lager by Grolsch Brewery (Netherlands)
OK, not a kolsch, but a couple weeks back I had one of these for the first time in I have no idea how many years. Honestly, as I think about it, my dad used to have Grolsch in the house when I was a kid but I have no recollection of ever having a Grolsch myself. I’m sure it happened at some point. I remember my dad letting my brother and me try a sip of Grolsch when we were little and I distinctly remember not liking it at all. My brother, on the other hand, had a more positive reaction and there’s photographic proof of him tilting the bottle way up to get that last sip. This features a zip of bitterness in an overall light, refreshing package. Here’s another beer that tastes like a beer.

Featured photo. Get the frosty mug ready. Photo courtesy of Jeff Mucciarone.

A hint of bourbon meatballs

Meatballs are my favorite meat-centric appetizer. The reason for this is simple: You can deliver so much flavor in a bite-sized snack.

These meatballs have a nice blend of sweet and savory with a teeny, tiny kick. Yes, there is a half cup of bourbon in the sauce, but a good amount of that alcohol evaporates. However, there probably is some remaining, so I would consider this to be an adults-only appetizer.

Let’s talk about the ingredients in this recipe. For the beef, 85-percent lean offers enough fat to keep the meatballs moist without becoming greasy. In the sauce, I used maple syrup to add a little more sweetness. If you don’t have maple syrup, you can use brown sugar. You should use the same amount. In both parts of the recipe there is bourbon. You don’t have to go top shelf here. You can use any bourbon that you’d be willing to use in a mixed drink.

These meatballs are incredibly versatile. Make them part of a cocktail party menu, or serve them as a snack for a lazy Sunday at home. They’ll be the perfect choice for either, or for anything in between.

A hint of bourbon meatballs
Makes 36

Meatballs
1½ pounds 85% lean ground beef
2 Tablespoons bourbon
1 egg
½ cup dry bread crumbs
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 Tablespoon worcestershire sauce
1 teaspoon chili powder
½ teaspoon salt

Sauce
½ cup bourbon
½ to ¾ cup ketchup
2 Tablespoons maple syrup
¼ cup cider vinegar
1 clove garlic minced
½ teaspoon chili powder

To make the meatballs
Preheat the oven to 400 degrees.
Combine all meatball ingredients in a large bowl.
Using your hands, mix until ingredients are well-blended.
Form the mixture into walnut-sized balls, and place on a rimmed baking sheet.
Bake for 20 minutes.

To make the sauce
Place all sauce ingredients in a small saucepan, whisking to combine fully.
Bring sauce to a boil, then turn heat down to low.
Allow sauce to simmer for 10 to 15 minutes, stirring occasionally.

Finishing the meatballs
Combine cooked meatballs and sauce in a small crockpot or medium-sized saucepan over low heat.
Simmer for 2 hours before serving.
If using the saucepan, be sure to stir every 20 minutes or so.

Featured Photo: A hint of bourbon meatballs. Photo by Michele Pesula Kuegler.

In the kitchen with Christian Davolio

Christian Davolio of Hudson runs The Rollin’ Grille (therollingrille.com, and on Facebook @therollingrille), a mobile food trailer specializing in scratch-cooked comfort items like double smash cheeseburgers, loaded pulled pork fries and smoked chicken wings. Originally from Tewksbury, Mass., Davolio has lived in Hudson for about four years. He previously worked in the IT field before deciding to pursue his passion of cooking. The Rollin’ Grille held its first public event in February at White Birch Brewing (460 Amherst St., Nashua), where Davolio has set up over the past several weekends. Find him there next on Sunday, April 10, from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m.

What is your must-have kitchen item?

[I have] a super-nimble light spatula that is great for getting those smash burgers off the griddle and keeping that crust on there. I’d say that’s in my hand 90 percent of the time I’m on that trailer.

What would you have for your last meal?

A three-way super roast beef sandwich, so [with] cheese, mayo and sauce. Growing up, that was something my father and I would always do together — we’d go out and get super beefs. … If it was my last meal, I’d want to have something with some really good memories behind it.

What is your favorite local restaurant?

It’s tough because there are a lot of great options out there, but two places I find myself at a lot when I’m eating out … are usually either T-Bones or California Burrito.

What celebrity would you like to see ordering from your trailer?

I think I’m going to go with Roy Choi. He started off with a food truck, and he’s just a great chef with a great personality. I think I’d really like to have him come and try my food and just see what I have going on.

What is your favorite thing on your menu?

I’m going to go with the signature smash burger. In my opinion, it’s just a perfect blend of flavors and of what I like on a burger. … It’s two patties, usually with cheese on both, and then grilled onions, bacon and barbecue sauce. … When the day’s over and I’m cooking something by myself, that’s what I’m making.

What is the biggest food trend in New Hampshire right now?

Over the past few years we’ve seen an explosion in outdoor dining … and that was a big thing that I was thinking about when I was trying to get into this industry, because the food trailer is perfect for that. … The smash burger is also something that I’ve seen popping up at more and more places.

What is your favorite thing to cook at home?

The thing that I could cook every single day, if it was a healthier option, is a nice bone-in rib-eye steak.

Bacon burnt ends
From the kitchen of Christian Davolio of The Rollin’ Grille (recipe calls for a smoker, but can also be done in an oven if a smoker is not available)

1 full slab pork belly (with the rind removed)
¾ stick butter
Yellow mustard
Salt
Pepper
Brown sugar
Barbecue sauce

Cut pork belly into 1-inch cubes. Coat with yellow mustard as a binder. Season liberally with salt and pepper. Put on smoker at 250 degrees. Remove from smoker after about two hours or an internal temperature of 190 degrees. Put them in a foil baking pan and put slices of butter over them, then lightly coat in brown sugar. Wrap tightly in foil and put back on the smoker for about 45 minutes. After 45 minutes, remove from the smoker and increase the heat to 325 degrees. Drain juice, then sauce the cubes with your choice of barbecue sauce. Place back on the smoker, uncovered, for 25 minutes at 325 degrees. Remove from the smoker and enjoy.

Featured photo: Christian Davolio. Courtesy photo.

Try it and buy it

Made in New Hampshire Expo returns

By Alexandra Colella

[email protected]

The Made in New Hampshire “Try it and Buy it” expo is right around the corner — the event is due to return to the DoubleTree by Hilton Manchester Downtown from Friday, April 8, through Sunday, April 10, and will feature all kinds of local foods, drinks, clothing, jewelry and more.

Now in its 26th year, the three-day expo attracts thousands of attendees. It’s the only one of its kind to showcase an entire lineup of products and services made right in the Granite State, said organizer Heidi Copeland, publisher of Business NH magazine and owner of EventsNH.

“We love to highlight that we were all about buying local before buying local was cool,” she said. “Also, this is a show where you can test drive your purchases before you buy them.”

Similar to the most recent Made in New England Expo, held in December, many businesses that will be sharing their products were launched post-pandemic and are therefore newcomers. Food companies have their biggest showings at this event. Beccari Chocolate, for example, will be presenting their handmade chocolate, while Thistle’s All Natural has a showing of its own homemade zucchini salsas and Maple Nut Kitchen has its own granola.

Other featured vendors at this year’s expo include Sunshine Baking, a New Hampshire company offering freshly baked shortbread cookies that launched last year and made its debut at the last Made in New England Expo. They’re expected to introduce some new cookie flavors at the event. Loon Chocolate, a producer of small-batch bean-to-bar chocolates that opened its first dual retail and production space in Manchester in early February, will also be attending, as well as Critical Mass Coffee, which has multiple bagged blends of organic fair trade coffee, and Destination India, a downtown Derry restaurant and newcomer to the expo.

A returning feature to the event will be a libation station, where of-age attendees will have the chance to sample all kinds of craft beers and wines New Hampshire has to offer.

In addition to specialty foods and drinks, companies will be selling everything from jewelry, clothing and personal care products to crafts, paintings, photo prints and more.

Made in New Hampshire Expo
When: Friday, April 8, 1 to 7:30 p.m., Saturday, April 9, 10 a.m. to 6 p.m., and Sunday April 10, 10 a.m. to 4 p.m.
Where: DoubleTree by Hilton Manchester Downtown (Expo Center), 700 Elm St., Manchester
Cost: $10 for adults, $9 for seniors ages 65 and over, $3 for kids ages 2 to 12 and free for kids under 2 ($3 per child under 2 if bringing a stroller into the hall). Tickets are only available at the door (cash or check only).
More info: Visit madeinnhexpo.com or follow them on Facebook @madeinnhexpo

Featured photo: Made in NH Expo. Photo by Matthew Lomanno Photography.

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