Category: Food

In the kitchen with Keith Wilson

Keith Wilson of Brentwood is the production chef of Dunk’s Mushrooms (313 Route 125, Brentwood, dunksmushrooms.com), which grows several varieties of gourmet mushrooms and makes weekly deliveries to multiple New England communities. In addition to making all kinds of specialty mushroom-based products like jerky, pot pies and coffee, the business offers other non-mushroom prepared items under the name Dunk’s Kitchen. Wilson and Dunk’s owner William “Dunk” Dunkerley regularly hold multi-course mushroom-focused dinners — a nine-dinner vegan series wrapped up late last year, and an omnivore series is currently underway. Dunk’s Mushrooms can also be found on dozens of restaurant menus across the Granite State. Wilson has been in the restaurant industry for nearly two decades — outside of Dunk’s, he and his wife Amber, of Stout Oak Farm in Brentwood, own The Seed Chef, an in-home catering and private event service.

What is your must-have kitchen item?

A tasting spoon, because you’ve got to be tasting your own food to know what you’re doing.

What would you have for your last meal?

I’m a sucker for really good sushi. I like the simple stuff, like a regular tuna nigiri.

What is your favorite local restaurant?

There are so many good restaurants. It’s impossible to choose.

What celebrity would you like to see trying something that you’ve made?

I’m going to go with Christopher Walken, just because, if he liked it, I’d want to hear his voice saying ‘Oh my God, this is so good!’

What is your favorite product to make for Dunk’s Mushrooms?

There’s one thing that we made a lot of last year that I really love. It’s a black trumpet maple syrup. … We had a good amount of black trumpet mushrooms from the woods around here [and] I took like four gallons of Grade A dark amber maple syrup and simmered it with all of the mushrooms in a big cauldron that we have. It has this great smoky, savory flavor that I can’t even really describe. I used it a lot to sweeten vegan cheesecakes and stuff.

What is the biggest food trend in New Hampshire right now?

Mushrooms, obviously. … The food system is damaged in a lot of ways, and meat production can be an issue, [but] mushrooms really help fill that void if people let them and they know how to prepare them properly. That’s part of the reason why our vegan series was so successful, because we were doing essentially what would have been meat-based meals, but with mushrooms in their place.

What is your favorite thing to cook at home?

I’ve got four kids and a crazy schedule sometimes, so there’s a lot of meals that just kind of get thrown together. … But if it’s a rare night when it’s just me and my wife and I get to cook something for her, it’s always nice to do that. Stuffed chicken breast is what she wants me to make for her right now, because I made it at the last dinner. … It’s a goat cheese stuffed breast wrapped in bacon with asparagus.

Gorgonzola mushroom spread
From the kitchen of Keith Wilson of Dunk’s Mushrooms in Brentwood (yields about six to 10 servings)

¼ pound Dunk’s chestnut mushrooms, chopped
2 Tablespoons butter, unsalted
¼ cup red wine (sherry or port work well)
2 sprigs fresh thyme leaves, pulled from stem and chopped
10 ounces Gorgonzola cheese
2 to 4 Tablespoons heavy cream
1 teaspoon salt
¼ Tablespoon black pepper

Gather all ingredients. In a heavy-bottom sauce or saute pan, melt the butter. Add mushrooms and saute over medium-high heat. Cook until mushrooms turn a dark golden brown. Turn down heat and add thyme, salt and wine. Cook until all wine is reduced and the pan is dry. Allow the mixture to cool. In a food processor, combine cheese, cream, salt, pepper and the cooled mushrooms. Blend until smooth, using more or less cream depending on the consistency. Serve as a spread on toast or as a dip.

Featured photo: Keith Wilson. Courtesy photo.

Taco ’bout a comeback

Find tacos savory and sweet in downtown Manchester

After being shelved in both 2020 and 2021, Taco Tour is back — the Greater Manchester Chamber is reviving the event, which will return on Thursday, May 5.

Initial talks to bring Taco Tour back in 2022 took place relatively quickly, according to Cole Riel, member engagement coordinator for the Chamber. Since around early February of this year, the Chamber has been working closely on the logistics of the event with the City of Manchester’s Economic Development Department, as well as with Mayor Joyce Craig’s office.

“Since last year, we’ve been asked about Taco Tour … and I think there’s been a little community murmur happening almost daily,” Riel said. “We actually had some past sponsors of the event reach out early on, and without that, I really don’t think it would’ve been possible, just to have that early support of saying, ‘OK, if it happens, we’ll be in.’ So it’s really exciting to see and to be able to have that, because it’s not an easy or cheap event to pull off.”

Hippo founded the event and ran it for its first eight years before handing over the reins to the now-dissolved Intown Manchester in 2019. Previous turnouts had reported upward of 30,000 attendees, but Taco Tour, like just about every other large-scale event, has fallen victim to pandemic-era cancellations ever since then.

But despite its three-year hiatus, support for and anticipation of the event have not gone away. This year’s Taco Tour has more than 60 participants, among the largest roster of taco vendors yet. They’ll be set up all along Elm Street, which will be closed to vehicular traffic between Bridge and Granite streets likely starting an hour before and for the duration of the event.

No price of admission is required — just come down to Elm Street any time during the event’s four-hour period and get as many tacos as you can eat for $3 apiece. Hanover Street and some other neighboring side streets will also be closed, and a few food trucks join in the fun as well — they’ll be stationed just outside Veterans Memorial Park nearby, Riel said.

Since the event hasn’t taken place in three years, there is a large number of Taco Tour newcomers, and part of the fun is that there are all kinds of non-traditional creations to discover.

Presto Craft Kitchen will be set up in front of Gentle Dental with a meatball Parm taco, featuring a garlic bread tortilla with hand-rolled beef meatballs, a whipped ricotta crema and a pesto Parm crunch. Industry East Bar on Hanover Street is planning to serve a loaded twice-baked potato taco, and Osaka Japanese Restaurant, which just opened its doors in December, will have a spicy crab sushi roll with cucumber and avocado, wrapped in nori seaweed.

“There are some people who haven’t come back downtown since Covid … and they may not even know which restaurants are still here that were here before,” Riel said. “So we’re inviting them back downtown … and they’re going to discover things that are new here too. That’s been really exciting for us, to be able to put the spotlight on some of those businesses.”

There will be a fair share of vegan and vegetarian options, too. The Sleazy Vegan, for instance, is a new plant-based ghost kitchen that’s planning to serve jackfruit tacos with a mango-jalapeño salsa. They’ll be set up at To Share Brewing Co. on Union Street.

The tacos aren’t just savory, either. Much like during previous years, you’ll encounter all kinds of “dessert tacos” and other sweeter items as well. Wild Orchid Bakery will be serving a drunken pineapple upside-down taco, The Smoothie Bus will have fruit tacos on a sugar cookie topped with chocolate sauce and whipped cream, and Granite State Candy Shoppe has a horchata ice cream option, featuring creamy frozen rice pudding with a hint of cinnamon.

A map of all of the participating businesses, which will also include details on their respective tacos, will be available to download at the event’s website. Outside of Elm Street and the surrounding streets, the Currier Museum of Art and the New Hampshire Fisher Cats will have taco celebrations of their own. Taco lovers can also go to the website to vote for their favorite option — the business that receives the most votes will get $1,000 to give to a nonprofit of their choice, as well as a special “taco trophy” designed by Manchester Makerspace.

“It’s going to be something hopefully that folks can put behind a bar and then all year long people can walk into that establishment, see the trophy back there, and be like ‘What the heck is that?’ Riel said. “This is a destination for a lot of people, and we really want [Taco Tour] to serve as that invitation to come back downtown and see what Manchester has going on.”

Taco Tour Manchester
When: Thursday, May 5, 4 to 8 p.m.
Where: Participating businesses stationed on Elm Street, various side streets in downtown Manchester and at the Currier Museum of Art (150 Ash St.) and Northeast Delta Dental Stadium (1 Line Drive)
Cost: $3 per taco (cash only)
Visit: tacotourmanchester.com
Event is rain or shine. Elm Street will be shut down to vehicular traffic from Bridge to Granite streets for the duration of the event, as well as on a few side streets.

Featured photo: Courtesy photo.

Eats on wheels

Food truck festival returns to Hampstead

More than a half dozen local food trucks serving all kinds of unique menu items will return to Hampstead Congregational Church for the second annual Hampstead Eats food truck festival, happening on Saturday, April 30. The event also features live local music and a food drive to support the New Hampshire Food Bank.

Event coordinator Roxanne McGaffigan said attendees ages 5 and up pay an admission fee to gain access to the trucks, with food selections then priced per item. The festival started in part as a fundraiser for the renovation and upkeep of the town’s Congregational Church. A small portion of the proceeds generated from ticket sales are also donated to the Food Bank.

“The trucks are out along the church driveway. … We’re going to have a few less tables, so that the trucks will be spread out a little bit more,” McGaffigan said. “There is some parking behind the church … and then there’s also parking on School Street, which is just a few houses over.”

Six of the eight featured trucks attended last year’s festival, but their menu concepts are all very diverse. Chef Koz’s Crescent City Kitchen, which offers scratch-made Cajun, Creole and Caribbean-inspired items like chicken jambalaya and fish tacos, is back this year. Boogalow’s Island BBQ and The Whoop(ie) Wagon are also both returning — the former offers Jamaican-inspired options like jerk pork and chicken, while the latter, hailing from just over the state border in Topsfield, Mass., is known for its creative takes on whoopie pie flavors.

The Traveling Foodie, a late addition to last year’s festival lineup, is also back. One of their signature items, simply called “Love in a Cup,” is a layered barbecue dish featuring pulled pork, macaroni and cheese, collard greens, coleslaw, cheese, sour cream and cornbread all in one cup.

Newcomers of this year’s Hampstead Eats are B’s Tacos, which has a year-round brick-and-mortar restaurant in Manchester and a seasonal spot in Londonderry; and Pat’s Cider Donuts, a longtime vendor at the Deerfield Fair. This will be the Pat’s first public event of 2022.

Kona Ice, which offers multiple flavors of tropical-themed shaved ice, will be providing free cup upgrades for those who bring a nonperishable item to donate to the Food Bank, McGaffigan said.

Lots of open grass will be available nearby for festival-goers to bring blankets or chairs and enjoy the live performances, which will include the Space Heaters, the Sons of the Solstice and members of Let’s Play Music.

Participating vendors

B’s Tacos (nhtacotruck.com)
Boogalow’s Island BBQ (boogalowsbbq.com)
Chef Koz’s Crescent City Kitchen (find them on Facebook @crescentcitykitchennh)
Chubb’s Fries & Dough (find them on Facebook @eddiemencis)
Kona Ice (kona-ice.com)
Pat’s Cider Donuts (patsciderdonuts.com)
The Traveling Foodie (jrmcateringllc.com)
The Whoo(pie) Wagon (thewhoopiewagon.com)

2nd annual Hampstead Eats food truck festival
When: Saturday, April 30, noon to 5 p.m.
Where: Hampstead Congregational Church, 61 Main St., Hampstead
Hours: $5 admission fee for ages 5 and up (cash or check only); foods are priced per item
More info: Search “Hampstead Eats” on Facebook, or call the church office at 329-6985
Event is rain or shine.

Featured photo: Scenes from last year’s Hampstead Eats food truck festival. Courtesy photos.

The Weekly Dish 22/04/28

News from the local food scene

• Greek eats to go: There’s still time to get your order in for the Greek food festival pop-up event at St. Philip Greek Orthodox Church (500 W. Hollis St., Nashua) — online orders are being accepted now through April 30, with pickups on Saturday, May 14, normally the church’s festival weekend. Featured items include pastitsio (Greek lasagna), keftedes (Greek meatballs) and spanakopita (spinach pie), which can all be ordered as dinners with rice and Greek string beans baked in a tomato sauce. Those same dinner-sized portions can also be ordered a la carte, as well as the church’s own freshly baked baklava — that comes in a pack of four per order. Visit nashuagreekfestival.com to order, where you’ll choose a pickup time between 11 a.m. and 7 p.m. For more details, check out our story on the event, which is on page 25 of the April 21 issue of the Hippo. Visit issuu.com/hippopress to download the e-edition for free.

• Cajun flavors: Join the Franco-American Centre for a special Cajun Night, happening on Saturday, April 30, at 6 p.m. at the Alpine Club (175 Putnam St., Manchester). In addition to a variety of Cajun options served buffet style, the event will feature a cash bar, door prizes, games, karaoke and more. Admission is $20 for Franco-American Centre members and $25 for non-members. The Franco-American Centre’s inaugural Franco Foods Fleur Délices challenge, held earlier this month, was a success and will likely return next year, according to event organizer and office manager Nathalie Hirte. Visit facnh.com.

• African celebrations: Save the date for a Taste of Africa event being held at Mola Foods (9 Simon St., Nashua) on Friday, May 6, from 6:30 to 9:30 p.m. The event was added due to the high demand and fast sellout of a similar tasting held on April 22, according to a press release. Guests will be able to enjoy a variety of traditional meat and vegan dishes hailing from different parts of Africa, in addition to wines from Averill House Vineyard in Brookline and live music from Les Blazeurs. “The response to Taste of Africa has been wonderful, so that’s why I’m hosting another one,” Mola Foods founder and Cameroon native LaFortune Jeannette Djabea said in a statement. “This is a chance to experience African cuisine and culture in a comfortable, cozy environment.” Tickets to the event are $40 per person. Visit molafoods.com.

• A bittersweet farewell: After nearly three decades in business, Manchester’s Candy Kingdom will permanently close its doors on Saturday, April 30, as owners Phyllis and Richard Capers get set to retire, according to a notice on the shop’s website and Facebook page. “There are no words to express our gratitude to all of our past employees, friends and customers who helped make this dream come true,” the post reads in part. “You have given us so many wonderful friendships and memories that we will take with us always.” Now through their final day open, Candy Kingdom will be offering 50 percent off its entire inventory. Visit candykingdom.shop.

Beer-braised carnitas

The best tacos on the planet?

Imagine crispy, yet tender, bits of pork exploding with savory, sweet flavors in every bite. Next, imagine a super-simple cooking process that is borderline impossible to mess up and results in perhaps the best taco base in existence.

I’m talking about pork carnitas and while we’re at it, let’s make them with beer. Beer adds complexity and flavor to the meat as it cooks slowly, tenderizing in its own juices. Also, I think, and I can’t promise this is accurate, beer actually aids in the tenderization process, helping the meat get where you want to go faster.

Making carnitas, which translates to “little meats” in Spanish, is really more process than recipe. First you braise chunks of pork until tender, and then you crisp up the tender chunks. My understanding is that traditionally the meat is fried in its own fat until tender before it is deposited into tacos.

I’ve followed a bunch of different recipes and I’ve never been disappointed. I’ve made them with a variety of seasonings and braising liquids, including chicken broth, beer, white wine, cider, and a mixture of orange and milk — they’re all winners.

If you choose a lighter brew like a Mexican lager, such as Revuelta by Able Ebenezer Brewing Co. in Merrimack, it will impart some pleasing funkiness. A hard cider, such as Wild Thing by Contoocook Cider Co. in Contoocook, adds a little fruitiness and acidity that helps balance a pretty rich final product. A stout would impart more richness but I’d lean toward a drier stout so it doesn’t overpower the dish.

For carnitas, you need to use pork butt, which is actually pork shoulder. The meat is quite fatty and filled with connective tissue, which requires long cooking times to break down.

Start by searing the meat in a big Dutch oven, add the seasonings you like, add your braising liquid, and then either slowly simmer it on the stovetop, or cook it covered in the oven or in a crockpot until the meat is tender.

Once the meat is tender, you drain off the braising liquid and either fry up the tender chunks until crispy on the stovetop or, and this is what I prefer, crisp up the meat in a screaming hot oven or under the broiler. It’s just easier, more consistent, and less messy.

Smash your crispy bits of pork into a warmed tortilla and top with whatever you want: salsa, fresh lime juice, sour cream, cheese, lettuce, pickled onions, and so on. I do think less is more when it comes to toppings here.

Here’s just one way to make carnitas.

Pork Carnitas

  • 3 to 4 pounds boneless pork butt, cut into 2-inch cubes
  • 1 Tablespoon ground cumin
  • 1 Tablespoon chili powder
  • 1 teaspoon cayenne pepper
  • 3 or 4 garlic cloves, smashed
  • 1 Tablespoon kosher salt, probably more
  • 1 bay leaf
  • 1 teaspoon ground black pepper
  • 3/4 teaspoon cinnamon
  • 12 ounces beer, preferably craft-brewed in New Hampshire
  • Vegetable oil, for searing

Heat a pot with a heavy bottom over high heat. Once hot, add a tablespoon or two of vegetable oil. Sear chunks of pork in batches, don’t crowd, until browned all over. Add all ingredients and bring to a simmer. Maintain a simmer, either over low heat on the stovetop or in a 350-degree oven, for about 3 hours until the meat is fork tender. Strain meat and remove garlic cloves and bay leaf. Arrange meat in a broiler-safe pan, drizzle over a few tablespoons of the braising liquid, and broil on high heat for about 10 minutes, turning halfway, until the meat is richly browned and crispy. You could also do this last step in a super-hot oven if you don’t have a broiler. Smash 2 or 3 chunks into a warm tortilla and top however you like.

What’s in My Fridge
Double Clip Double IPA by Stoneface Brewing Co. (Newington)
I’m sure I’ve had this before but somehow, maybe not? As my brother-in-law remarked as we cracked open a couple of these, “This is delicious.” It’s big, juicy and bold but the finish is quite smooth. Cheers.

Featured photo. Make pork carnitas. Photo by Frankie Lopez.

Warm butternut and apple salad

Salad season is almost here! Yes, I know salads are all-year food items, but the warmth of summer makes them so much more enjoyable. As we navigate the transition from cold winter to hot summer, this is the perfect salad to serve. It’s veggie-centric but served warm, making it a good choice for a warm spring day and cool evening.

This salad does require a bit more prep time than your typical salad recipe. First, you have three different ingredients that require dicing. Then you have roasting time for the squash, onions and apple. Finally, you need to cook the pancetta. This is not meant as a deterrent; rather this info is shared so that you plan adequately. From start to finish, you need about 45 minutes to an hour.

The time and effort are well worth it. This salad has a nice mix of textures and flavors.

Warm butternut and apple salad
Serves 4

¼ cup cider vinegar
2 Tablespoons maple syrup
1 teaspoon dried sage
1½ pounds butternut squash, peeled & seeded*
1 small sweet onion
1½ Tablespoons olive oil
4 ounces pancetta
1 apple, core removed
salt & pepper

Preheat oven to 400 degrees.
Combine vinegar and maple syrup in a small saucepan; bring to a boil.
Reduce heat slightly, stirring occasionally until reduced by half.
Stir sage into dressing, and set aside.
Dice squash into 1-inch cubes.
Slice onion into small wedges.
Combine 3 cups squash and onion on a rimmed baking sheet
Drizzle with 1 tablespoon oil, and toss to coat fully.
Bake for 15 minutes.
While squash and onions cook, dice pancetta into small pieces
Heat a frying pan over medium; cook diced pancetta for 3 to 5 minutes or until crispy.
Drain pancetta on a paper towel-lined plate.
Dice apple into 1-inch cubes.
Drizzle apple cubes with remaining 1/2 tablespoon oil, and toss to coat.
After baking for 15 minutes, remove tray from oven.
Add apple to tray, return to oven, and bake for an additional 5 minutes.
Transfer squash, onion and apples to a large bowl.
Pour reduced dressing over it; stir well.
Top with pancetta.
Serve.

  • Save leftover squash for another recipe.

Featured Photo: Warm butternut and apple salad. Photo by Michele Pesula Kuegler.

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