Category: Food

In the kitchen with Bradley Labarre

Bradley Labarre of Manchester is the new executive chef and program manager of the Recipe for Success culinary job training program at the New Hampshire Food Bank (700 E. Industrial Park Drive, Manchester, 669-9725, nhfoodbank.org), having assumed the role in early January. The free eight-week program helps people suffering financial hardships gain work in the food service industry in the state — students learn various skills such as nutrition, proper use of kitchen instruments and equipment, safe food handling and meal presentation. Labarre’s role with the Food Bank also involves coordinating food donations and managing its regular inventory of products, and he’s currently working on getting the Recipe for Success program accredited through the American Culinary Federation. A Queen City native, he’s been involved with the Food Bank as a volunteer for more than eight years, including as a participant in its annual Steel Chef Challenge.

What is your must-have kitchen item?

A very sharp knife.

What would you have for your last meal?

A perfect bowl of mushroom risotto, topped with an unctuous slab of nicely seared foie gras. … Of course, it would have to be followed by something sweet, so perhaps a nice slice of wild blueberry cheesecake or Blake’s brand Moose Tracks ice cream.

What is your favorite local restaurant?

At the top of my list right now is Greenleaf in Milford, with chef Chris Viaud. They are totally killing it over there. Every time we go there, our heads are exploding. … We love that place, and we love Chris too. He’s a super, super nice guy.

What celebrity would you like to cook for?

[Chefs] Alice Waters, Peter Hoffman or Dan Barber. I’ve been inspired by their farm-to-fork approach with food for years. … Cooking for any one of them would not only be an honor, but it would teach me so much about my deep-seated approach to cooking.

What is your favorite thing that you’ve ever cooked for the NH Food Bank?

One that really sticks out to me was the first meal we ever made for the Steel Chef challenge back in 2016, which was a beef tenderloin. Although it wasn’t the most difficult thing I ever made, it was one of the most memorable. Not only did I get to do this with my then future wife and a few friends, but this plate of food made such a difference in so many people’s lives.

What is the biggest food trend in New Hampshire right now?

Plant-based cooking. I’m noticing that more and more chefs are focusing more of their energy on plant-based foods made with care.

What is your favorite thing to cook at home?

Anything in my outdoor wood-fired oven. Specifically, though, I love a crisp, airy pizza topped with a few slices of fresh mozzarella, some spicy arugula and thinly sliced prosciutto. You can’t beat it. … [The oven] is handmade in Portugal and it weighs 1,300 pounds. I actually had to have a crane put it in my yard.

Wild mushroom risotto
From the kitchen of Executive Chef Bradley Labarre of the New Hampshire Food Bank

1 pound wild mushrooms
8 Tablespoons butter
2 small shallots, minced
4 garlic cloves, minced
2 fresh thyme sprigs
½ teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon freshly ground pepper
¾ cup dry white wine
1 Tablespoon lemon juice
5 cups chicken or vegetable stock
1½ cups arborio rice
1 cup heavy cream
1 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese
Fresh parsley, minced (optional)

Warm broth over low heat in a small saucepan. In a heavy skillet, melt half of the butter over medium heat. Add mushrooms and shallots and saute until tender, about eight minutes. Add garlic, thyme sprigs, salt and pepper and stir for an additional minute. Remove mushroom mixture from pan and set aside. Add remaining butter to pan over medium heat. Once melted, add rice and stir until rice begins to look translucent. Add dry white wine and lemon juice and bring to a simmer, stirring constantly until the liquid is absorbed. Add mushroom stock or one cup of vegetable broth and stir until almost all of the broth is absorbed. Continue adding the broth one cup at a time and stir until the liquid is almost absorbed. Add mushroom mixture into the rice and stir to combine. Gently stir in the heavy cream and Parmesan cheese and cook for an additional five minutes on low heat. Transfer risotto to a serving bowl and top with freshly ground pepper, shaved Parmesan and fresh parsley if desired.

Featured photo: Bradley Labarre. Photo by Bruce Luetters of 3Sixty Photography.

Chili chowdown

Amherst chili cook-off and ice cream social returns

Local restaurants and home cooks will once again be vying for your palate with a warm bowl of chili during the sixth annual Amherst Fire & Ice. After its initial postponement last month, the friendly chili cook-off and tasting — which will also feature make-your-own ice cream sundaes to help you turn down the heat — returns to Amherst Middle School on Friday, March 11.

The cook-off is being organized by the Amherst Lions Club, and while the deadline to register as a chili entrant has passed, it’s open to the public for tasting. This will be the first in-person Amherst Fire & Ice in two years, following a pre-recorded “virtual” cook-off in 2021 when viewers had the opportunity to purchase chili recipes online from each of the entrants.

Chili makers will compete in three categories — individuals, restaurants and Lions Club members — as voted by tasters and a panel of judges, Amherst Lion Joan Ferguson said. (Editor’s note: This year’s judging panel includes Hippo writer Matt Ingersoll.) They’ll rate each entry on a scale of 1 to 10 on various criteria such as taste, smell, heat, presentation and creativity. David Mielke of Smokehaus Barbecue, a 2019 Amherst Fire & Ice champion, is a judge this year, and so is Dan DeCourcey, pitmaster of the Up in Your Grill barbecue food truck.

This year’s contenders will include Moulton’s Kitchen & Market of Amherst and Union Street Grill of Milford, as well as members of several local Lions Clubs like Amherst, Bedford and Merrimack. As in past years, there will be a diverse showing of traditional and non-traditional options to be served, Ferguson said, and you never know what types you may encounter. One of last year’s virtual cook-off winners, for instance, was a lamb chili with garbanzo beans and havarti cheese, while others have previously featured game meats like venison. Ferguson said at least one meatless option will be among the lineup of chilis to taste at this year’s cook-off.

“Attendees may eat as much as they want,” she said. “In addition … there will be cornbread, drinks and hot dogs [for those] who might not care for chili.”

Tasters will also get to vote on their favorite chilis. The chili entrant with the most votes in each category receives bragging rights for a year and their name engraved on a silver bowl.

After sampling chilis, attendees can enjoy their own made-to-order ice cream sundaes, featuring their choice of vanilla, chocolate or cookies and cream ice cream flavors, and additional toppings like strawberries, chocolate sauce, whipped cream, cherries or chocolate or rainbow sprinkles.

Members of Amherst Middle School’s music department will perform live. There will also be animal balloon demonstrations from Amherst’s Krickey the Clown, free eye screenings offered by the Amherst Lions Club, and — new to this year’s event — a kids’ coloring contest with prizes awarded to winners in three separate brackets: ages 11 to 15, 6 to 10 and 5 and under. The contest drawings can be downloaded from the Amherst Lions Club’s website or Facebook page.

“Copies of the images and crayons will be available … and may be completed before the winners are announced toward the end of the event,” Ferguson said.

6th annual Amherst Fire & Ice
When: Friday, March 11, 5 to 7 p.m.
Where: Amherst Middle School, 14 Cross Road, Amherst
Cost: $8 per person or $25 per family of four. Children under 5 receive free admission. Tickets can be purchased online, or cash is accepted at the door.
Visit: e-clubhouse.org/sites/amherstnh

Featured photo: Scenes from the 2019 Amherst Fire & Ice chili cook-off and ice cream social. Courtesy photo.

Ready for St. Patrick’s Day?

Where to get corned beef and cabbage, Irish-inspired treats and other specials

St. Patrick’s Day is just a week away, so if you’re looking to enjoy that ceremonial boiled corned beef and cabbage dinner, or you want to indulge in some Irish-inspired sweets, here’s a list of local restaurants, Irish pubs, bakeries and other businesses ready to help you mark the occasion.

• Alan’s of Boscawen (133 N. Main St., Boscawen, 753-6631, alansofboscawen.com) will have corned beef and cabbage available on Saturday, March 12, and from Thursday, March 17, through Saturday, March 19. Live entertainment will be provided by Those Guys on Saturday, March 12, and DJ Stretch on Friday, March 18.

• All Real Meal (87 Elm St., Manchester, 782-3014, allrealmeal.com) is taking orders for St. Patrick’s Day dinners for two, featuring slow-cooked corned beef, cabbage and vegetables, Guinness beef pot pie, loaded mashed potatoes, and Irish cream cheesecake and chocolate mint brownies for dessert. The cost is $75. Order as soon as possible (quantities are limited) for delivery on Wednesday, March 16.

• Amigos Mexican Cantina (20 South St., Milford, 673-1500, amigosmilford.com) will be open from noon to 9 p.m. on Thursday, March 17, serving multiple specials for St. Patrick’s Day, like slow-roasted corned beef dinners with carrots, potatoes and cabbage, “Emerald Isle Nachos,” which are topped with corned beef, sauerkraut, melted Swiss cheese and Thousand Island dressing, and Irish Car Bomb whoopies, featuring a Guinness chocolate cake and a Jameson whiskey and Bailey’s Irish cream buttercream filling.

• Auburn Pitts (167 Rockingham Road, Auburn, 622-6564, auburnpitts.com) will serve specials on corned beef dinners and Reuben sandwiches starting Wednesday, March 16, and going right through the weekend. They’ll also have live music and open mic jams all afternoon and evening starting at 2 p.m. on Thursday, March 17, hosted by Crazy Steve Butler and Stoned Wasp.

• Averill House Vineyard (21 Averill Road, Brookline, 244-3165, averillhousevineyard.com) will serve its annual St. Patrick’s Day mystery dinner, a four-course food and wine pairing event, on Thursday, March 17, at 5:30 p.m. The dinner includes four themed mystery dishes, along with wine selections from the vineyard. Tickets start at $69 per person.

• The Bakeshop on Kelley Street (171 Kelley St., Manchester, 624-3500, thebakeshoponkelleystreet.com) will be offering corned beef sandwiches featuring its own house dressing, sauteed cabbage on toasted garlic herb bread. They’re also offering special St. Patrick’s Day-themed decorative cookies, doughnuts and cupcakes.

• Belmont Hall & Restaurant (718 Grove St., Manchester, 625-8540, belmonthall.net) will be open until 8 p.m. on Thursday, March 17, serving special corned beef and cabbage plates with all the fixings.

• Bistro 603 (345 Amherst St., Nashua, 722-6362, bistro603nashua.com) will open at 11 a.m. on Thursday, March 17, celebrating St. Patrick’s Day with a special features menu in addition to its regular menus. Live music will begin at 8 p.m. that night and March Madness basketball games will also be on TV.

• Boston Bakes (Goffstown, find them on Facebook @bostonbakesnh) is taking orders for several St. Patrick’s Day-themed sweet treats, like macarons (flavors include Shamrock Shake, Lucky Charms and Bailey’s Irish coffee); cakes and cupcakes (flavors include mint chip, vanilla, chocolate and Funfetti); and vanilla sugar cookies decorated with green clovers and sprinkles.

• Buckley’s Market & Cafe (9 Market Place, Hollis, 465-5522, buckleysbakerycafe.com) is taking orders for St. Patrick’s Day dinner boxes for two, featuring slow braised corned beef with potatoes, cabbage, turnip and carrots; whole-grain mustard and horseradish sauces; Irish soda bread; and chocolate Guinness cupcakes with Bailey’s frosting. The cost is $60 and pickups will be on Thursday, March 17 (note: dinner boxes are being offered at the Hollis location only).

• Candy Kingdom (235 Harvard St., Manchester, 641-8470, candykingdom.shop) has a variety of St. Patrick’s Day-themed treats available at the shop, like chocolate coins, shamrock-shaped cookies with green sugar crystals and more.

• Casey Magee’s Irish Pub & Music Hall (8 Temple St., Nashua, 484-7400, caseymagees.com) will open its doors at 10 a.m. on Thursday, March 17, celebrating St. Patrick’s Day all day long with food and drink specials like corned beef and cabbage dinners, fish and chips, Reuben club sandwiches and green beer. A full schedule of live entertainment is planned throughout the day from noon to 11 p.m., featuring various solo musicians playing Irish music. Steve DeLuca will perform from noon to 3 p.m., followed by Kieran McNally from 4 to 7 p.m., and Quincy Lord from 8 to 11 p.m. Casey Magee’s owner and founder Matt Casey is also due to participate as the “official leprechaun” in the 25th annual Manchester St. Patrick’s Day parade, set to return on Sunday, March 27, for the first time since 2019. Visit saintpatsnh.com.

• Cruzin Cakes Shop (150 Broad St., Nashua, 882-1666, cruzincakesshop.com) is taking orders for St. Patrick’s Day-themed platters, featuring mini green velvet cupcakes, brownies, sugar cookies and chocolates. Order by March 12.

• The Derryfield Restaurant (625 Mammoth Road, Manchester, 623-2880, thederryfield.com) will be serving corned beef and cabbage dinners and corned beef sandwiches all day on St. Patrick’s Day. Live music will be featured by the local group D-Comp from 6 to 9:30 p.m.

• Dutch Epicure Bakery (141 Route 101A, Amherst, 879-9400, dutchepicurebakery.com) is celebrating St. Patrick’s Day with freshly baked Irish soda bread available every day through Saturday, March 19. Year-round, it’s also available every Friday and Saturday.

• Firefly American Bistro & Bar (22 Concord St., Manchester, 935-9740, fireflynh.com) will be open from 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. on Thursday, March 17, celebrating St. Patrick’s Day all day long with a full menu of Irish-inspired specialties in addition to its regular menu, like corned beef and cabbage, bangers and mash, a traditional Irish cod bake, a dark chocolate Guinness cheesecake and more. A special cocktail menu with handcrafted Irish-inspired options will also be available, and Guinness will be pouring all day.

• The Flight Center Taphouse & Eatery (1071 S. Willow St., Manchester, 952-4252, flightcenterbc.com) will serve a variety of Irish-inspired specialties on St. Patrick’s Day, like traditional corned beef and cabbage dinners and Reuben sandwiches, as well as Irish red ale and whiskey flights.

• Fody’s Great American Tavern (9 Clinton St., Nashua, 577-9015; 187½ Rockingham Road, Derry, 404-6946; fodystavern.com) will open at noon at its Derry location and at 3 p.m. at its Nashua location on St. Patrick’s Day. Food specials will include corned beef and cabbage, Reuben sandwiches and loaded Reuben hand-cut fries.

• Frederick’s Pastries (109 Route 101A, Amherst, 882-7725; 25 S. River Road, Bedford, 647-2253; pastry.net) is offering a variety of themed sweets and treats for St. Patrick’s Day, like shamrock cookies, “Pot of Gold” cakes, Bailey’s Irish cream tortes, and cupcakes with flavors like Guinness, confetti shamrock and mint chocolate chip.

• Georgia’s Northside (394 N. State St., Concord, 715-3189, georgiasnorthside.com) is taking pre-orders for a special St. Patrick’s Day pop-up menu, featuring items like traditional plates of corned beef and cabbage with mashed potatoes and Irish country bread, Guinness stew with tender braised steak, brown gravy and veggies, and homemade chocolate pudding topped with whipped Bailey’s Irish cream.

• The Goat Bar and Grill (50 Old Granite St., Manchester, 222-1677, goatnh.com) is celebrating St. Patrick’s Day with brunch all weekend, from 8 a.m. to 2 p.m. each day from Thursday, March 17, through Saturday, March 19. Live music and March Madness games on TV will also be featured each day.

• Granite State Candy Shoppe (13 Warren St., Concord, 225-2591; 832 Elm St., Manchester, 218-3885; granitestatecandyshoppe.com) has several St. Patrick’s Day-themed sweets and treats, like chocolate coins, chocolate foiled green hearts and shamrock cream gift boxes.

• Granite State Whoopie Pies (Goffstown, granitestatewhoopiepies.com) is taking orders for chocolate mocha Irish cream or chocolate and mint grasshopper whoopie pies for St. Patrick’s Day, available by the dozen as regular or miniature sizes. Orders are due by March 11, for pickup the following Wednesday through Saturday, between 7 a.m. and 1 p.m. at White Birch Eatery (571 Mast Road, Goffstown). Single-serve pies are also available for purchase there, as well as at Little Red Hen Farm & Homestead (85 Norris Road, Pittsfield). Find owner and founder Heather Pfeifer with her St. Patrick’s Day-inspired whoopie pies at Mountain Base Brewery (553 Mast Road, Goffstown) on Thursday, March 17, from 4 to 8 p.m.

• Holy Grail Food & Spirits (64 Main St., Epping, 679-9559, holygrailrestaurantandpub.com) will be serving food specials all day long for St. Patrick’s Day, like corned beef and cabbage, shepherd’s pie, bangers and colcannon (Irish mashed potatoes), Guinness beer and more. A full schedule of live local music throughout the day starts with Max Sullivan at 11:30 a.m., followed by Portsmouth Celtic band Penhallow in the afternoon and Karen Grenier at 7 p.m.

• Jamison’s Restaurant (472 Route 111, Hampstead, 489-1565, jamisonsrestaurant.com) is celebrating St. Patrick’s Day with several food specials on Thursday, March 17, such as boiled corned brisket dinners, Irish nachos and Reuben egg rolls. Reservations are being accepted for lunch. The New Hampshire Police Association Pipes & Drums will perform at 2 p.m. that day.

• LaBelle Winery Derry (14 Route 111, Derry, 672-9898, labellewinery.com) will hold a special St. Patrick’s Day beer and wine pairing dinner in its vineyard ballroom on Saturday, March 12, at 6:30 p.m., featuring selections from Concord Craft Brewing Co., including the brewery’s new Cerevino, a red ale that was soured and fermented on grape pressings from LaBelle. Food courses will include amuse bouche (bangers and mashed pasties with onion gravy, potato leek soup with herb oil, your choice of one of two entrees (maple brown ale braised pork loin with colcannon Irish mashed potatoes and whiskey pickled mustard seeds, or pan seared cod with Cerevino-braised purple cabbage, Irish boxty potato and chive beurre blanc), and sticky toffee pudding for dessert. The cost is $75 per person plus tax (dinner is 21+ only). Then on Wednesday, March 16, LaBelle will hold the next installment of its Winemaker’s Kitchen cooking class series, which will dabble in Irish favorites. That class is set for 6 p.m. that evening, also at the winery’s Derry location — recipes to be discussed will include Irish lamb stew, bangers and mash and chocolate Irish cream truffles. The cost is $35 per person plus tax.

• McGarvey’s Saloon (1097 Elm St., Manchester, 627-2721, mcgarveysnh.com) will open its doors at 10 a.m. on Thursday, March 17, serving traditional Irish meals and Guinness beer all day long. Live entertainment will be provided by DJs Bernie and Erin Del Llano of Perfect Entertainment.

• Murphy’s Taproom (494 Elm St., Manchester, 644-3535, murphystaproom.com) will open at 6 a.m. on Thursday, March 17, for a St. Patrick’s Day breakfast. A full schedule of live music will be featured all day long, starting at 9 a.m. and going all the way through until 1 a.m. Corned beef and cabbage specials will be available all weekend.

• Nelson’s Candy & Music (65 Main St., Wilton, 654-5030, nelsonscandymusic.com) has multiple St. Patrick’s Day-themed sweets, like milk chocolate mold leprechaun pops, chocolate mold shamrock pops and more.

• New England’s Tap House Grille (1292 Hooksett Road, Hooksett, 782-5137, taphousenh.com) will serve a St. Patrick’s Day-themed specials menu from Thursday, March 17, through Saturday, March 19, featuring items like Reuben balls, corned beef and cabbage, Guinness stew, fish and chips, Guinness cake and Bailey’s Irish cream cheesecake.

• North Side Grille (323 Derry Road, Hudson, 886-3663, hudsonnorthsidegrille.com) will be offering traditional corned beef and cabbage plates with carrots and potatoes all week long, beginning on Tuesday, March 15, until they sell out. Other featured specialties available during St. Patrick’s Day week will include Irish poutine, Guinness lamb stew, soda bread, bangers and mash, beer-battered fish and chips, “pot of gold” macaroni and cheese, and Irish cream cheesecake, plus Guinness on draft, Smithwick’s Irish ale by the bottle and a lineup of Irish-inspired cocktails.

• Old School Bar & Grill (49 Range Road, Windham, 458-6051, oldschoolbarandgrill.com) will offer a variety of St. Patrick’s Day-inspired specials beginning Monday, March 14, like Guinness beef stew, Irish egg rolls featuring corned beef, cabbage, Swiss cheese and Thousand Island dressing, boiled dinners of corned beef and cabbage with turnip, parsnip, carrots and potatoes, Irish nachos with corned beef, sauerkraut and beer cheese, corned beef Reubens with homemade potato chips, and Bailey’s Irish cream cheesecake for dessert.

• Patrick’s Pub & Eatery (18 Weirs Road, Gilford, 293-0841, patrickspub.com) will open its doors at noon on Thursday, March 17, celebrating St. Patrick’s Day all day long with entree specials like a traditional corned beef and cabbage dinner with turnip, red bliss potato, carrots and locally made Irish soda bread, as well as bangers and mash and Guinness beef stew. Dessert specials will include Bailey’s Irish cream cheesecake and sticky toffee pudding, a house made authentic Irish recipe featuring a moist sweet cake with vanilla ice cream, caramel sauce and whipped topping. For drinks, green beer will be available upon request, or you can order specials like Patrick’s Pub’s own Slainte Irish red ale. Live music will be featured from noon to 7 p.m.

• The Peddler’s Daughter (48 Main St., Nashua, 821-7535, thepeddlersdaughter.com) will open its doors at 8 a.m. on Thursday, March 17, celebrating St. Patrick’s Day all day long with a Kegs and Eggs Irish breakfast until 3 p.m., corned beef dinners and other specials available from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m., and a full schedule of live entertainment, including a performance by the New Hampshire Police Association Pipes & Drums at 4 p.m.

• The Pint Publik House (1111 Elm St., Manchester, 206-5463, pintpublikhouse.com) will open earlier than normal, at 11 a.m. on St. Patrick’s Day, serving corned beef and cabbage specials.

• The Potato Concept (thepotatoconcept.com) is planning a special St. Patrick’s Day-themed food tour with several local breweries, where they will be featuring corned beef and cabbage loaded baked potatoes. Find them at Great North Aleworks (1050 Holt Ave., Manchester) on Sunday, March 13, from 12:30 to 5 p.m.; at Rockingham Brewing Co. (1 Corporate Park Drive, Derry) on Thursday, March 17, from 4 to 8 p.m.; and at Spyglass Brewing Co. (2 Townsend West, Nashua) on Saturday, March 19, from 2 to 6 p.m.

• Queen City Cupcakes (790 Elm St., Manchester, 624-4999, qccupcakes.com) is taking orders for several St. Patrick’s Day-inspired flavors of its gourmet cupcakes, like Lucky Charms, Shamrock Shake, green velvet and Guinness, as well as other regular favorites like vanilla bean, chocolate and peanut butter cup. Order by March 15 at noon. Pickups will be on Thursday, March 17, between 10:30 a.m. and 4 p.m.

• Salt Hill Pub (58 Main St., Newport, 863-7774; 1407 New Hampshire Route 103, Newbury, 763-2670; 2 W. Park St., Lebanon, 448-4532; 5 Airport Road, West Lebanon, 298-5566; salthillpub.com) will open at 9 a.m. on Thursday, March 17, celebrating St. Patrick’s Day with a traditional Irish breakfast at each of its locations. There will also be themed food and drink specials throughout the day and night, as well as a full lineup of live music (performances vary depending on the location).

• The Shaskeen Pub and Restaurant (909 Elm St., Manchester, 625-0246, shaskeenirishpub.com) will celebrate St. Patrick’s Day with its first pints at 6 a.m. on Thursday, March 17. Breakfast will continue to be served until 11 a.m., then they’ll switch over to a limited dinner menu with items like Guinness stew and corned beef. The kitchen will be open until 9:30 p.m. and the bar will close at 1 a.m. Live music will be featured in the back bar area, beginning around noon that day.

• Smoke Shack Cafe (226 Rockingham Road, Londonderry, 404-2178, smokeshackcafe.com) is taking pre-orders for a variety of specialty items for St. Patrick’s Day, including a la carte meats, like smoked corned beef, smoked sausage, pork belly and smoked chicken; sides, like colcannon (Irish mashed potatoes), brown sugar carrots, cabbage and pork belly saute, pea and onion saute, collard greens and macaroni and cheese; and meal packages, which include a choice of entree and sides. Pickups will be on Thursday, March 17 — schedule your desired pickup time when placing an order through the website.

• Soel Sistas Catering & Meal Prep (Nashua, 943-1469, soelsistas.com) is taking orders for braised corned beef and cabbage dinners for St. Patrick’s Day, with turnip, carrots and potatoes. Individual and family-style meals for a family of four are available, as well as chocolate Guinness cupcakes. Order by March 12.

• Strange Brew Tavern (88 Market St., Manchester, 666-4292, strangebrewtavern.com) will be celebrating St. Patrick’s Day all day long on Thursday, March 17. A full schedule of live local music acts is planned, beginning at 9 a.m. and through the afternoon and evening, including a performance by the New Hampshire Police Association Pipes & Drums at 7 p.m. Corned beef and cabbage, Guinness stew and other food specials will be served from noon to 11 p.m.

• Tailgate Tavern (28 Portsmouth Ave., Stratham, 580-2294, tailgatetavernnh.com) will serve a special St. Patrick’s Day menu all day long on Thursday, March 17, featuring items like corned beef brisket boiled dinners with cabbage, potatoes, carrots and turnips, as well as Reuben sandwiches, Irish shepherd’s pie, Guinness barbecue ribs, Bailey’s Irish cream bread pudding, and shamrock chocolate cream pie. Orders are also being accepted for family-style meals to go, feeding four to six people. Order by noon on Tuesday, March 15 for pickup until 5 p.m. on Thursday, March 17.

• The Town Cabin Deli & Pub (285 Old Candia Road, Candia, 483-4888, towncabin.com) will serve a variety of traditional Irish-inspired specials for St. Patrick’s Day, like corned beef and cabbage dinners and Guinness stew with bread bowls, and Guinness and Jameson will be flowing throughout the evening. St. Patrick’s Day meals will also be available to order for takeout from the deli.

• Up In Your Grill (Merrimack, upinyourgrill.com, and on Facebook @upinyourgrill) is taking pre-orders for corned beef dinners for one, with cabbage, potatoes and carrots. Pickups will be on Thursday, March 17, at Vault Motor Storage (526 Daniel Webster Hwy., Merrimack). Schedule your pickup time between 4 and 7 p.m. when placing an order online (the link can be accessed through the Facebook page).

• Van Otis Chocolates (341 Elm St., Manchester, 627-1611, vanotis.com) has several St. Patrick’s Day-themed sweets and treats, like milk, white or dark chocolate leprechaun or shamrock molds, milk chocolate green foiled hearts, and a four-piece “lucky box” of Swiss fudge and truffles.

• The Village Trestle (25 Main St., Goffstown, 497-8230, villagetrestle.com) will be serving multiple St. Patrick’s Day specials all day long in addition to its regular full menu, like corned beef and cabbage with potatoes and carrots, corned beef Reubens and Guinness beef stew. Drink specials will include Green Tea cocktails, featuring Jameson whiskey, peach schnapps, and sour mix, served straight up or on the rocks. Live music from Jennifer Mitchell will be featured from 6 to 9 p.m. that evening.

• The Wild Rover Pub (21 Kosciuszko St., Manchester, 669-7722, wildroverpub.com) will open its doors at 6 a.m. on Thursday, March 17. They’ll be celebrating St. Patrick’s Day all day long, starting with a breakfast buffet, followed by traditional corned beef and cabbage dinners, Guinness specials and more.

• Zorvino Vineyards (226 Main St., Sandown, 887-8463, zorvino.com) will serve a special Irish-inspired four-course dinner in honor of St. Patrick’s Day, scheduled for Friday, March 18, at 6:30 p.m. Following a small appetizer of Irish soda bread, meal courses will include grilled asparagus and artichoke salad, Jameson and cracked mustard crusted Atlantic salmon, a “deconstructed” Guinness stew featuring stout braised prime beef, root vegetable hash, caramelized pearl onion, English roasted potatoes and charred baby carrots, and Irish coffee bread pudding for dessert. The cost is $65 per person.

Featured photo: Corned beef and cabbage from The Shaskeen Pub and Restaurant in Manchester. Courtesy photo.

The Weekly Dish 22/03/10

News from the local food scene

• Beer and chocolate: Join Millyard Brewery (25 E. Otterson St., Nashua) for a beer and chocolate pairing featuring selections from Loon Chocolate. The event was postponed from last month due to weather, but has now been rescheduled for Friday, March 18, at 6:30 p.m. Attendees will choose four beers to sample, and each will be paired with a piece of chocolate to complement and contrast their flavors. Staff from both Millyard Brewery and Loon Chocolate will be on hand to talk about the unique similarities between crafting beer and creating small-batch chocolate from bean to bar. Tickets are $12 per person — attendees will be entered into a drawing to win a special chocolate and beer gift basket. Loon Chocolate, founded by former craft brewer Scott Watson, opened its first retail storefront in Manchester in mid-February. Visit millyardbrewery.com or loonchocolate.com for more details on either company’s offerings.

• Spirits of community: Get your tickets now for Crafts, Drafts and Barrels, an annual tasting benefit featuring local foods, beers, wines and spirits that’s scheduled for Friday, March 18, at 6 p.m. at the McAuliffe-Shepard Discovery Center (2 Institute Drive, Concord). The tasting is presented by Concord Hospital Trust in partnership with Martignetti Companies of New Hampshire, according to a press release — attendees can sample food from local restaurants paired with beer, wine, spirit or mocktail options from breweries, vineyards and distilleries both in the state and around the world. Participating eateries will include The Common Man, O Steaks & Seafood, Angela’s Pasta & Cheese Shop, Gibson’s Cafe and others. Tickets start at $75 per person general admission (event is 21+ only), with proceeds benefiting the Concord Hospital Cardiovascular Institute. Visit giveto.concordhospital.org.

• Local chef up for national award: Milford chef Chris Viaud has been nominated as a semifinalist in the 2022 James Beard Foundation awards under the “Emerging Chef” category, alongside other esteemed chefs from across the country, according to a press release. The category is the new name for the Foundation’s former “Rising Star” award, one of several, including “Outstanding Restaurateur” and “Best New Restaurant.” Viaud competed on the Bravo series Top Chef last year — he’s the owner and executive chef of Greenleaf, a farm-to-table restaurant in Milford, where he also hosts an ongoing series of Haitian dinners with his family under the name Ansanm. “I am truly humbled by the recognition and nomination from the James Beard Foundation,” he said in a statement. “It has been a dream of mine to be represented among some of the best talents in the country.” Winners will be celebrated at the James Beard Restaurant and Chef Awards ceremony on June 13 at the Lyric Opera of Chicago.

• Red Arrow turning 100: The Red Arrow Diner is celebrating its 100th year of business in Manchester with special commemorative plans all throughout 2022, according to a press release. The 24-hour diner first opened in the Queen City back in October 1922. To celebrate the milestone, it’s offering monthly menu discounts all year long that correspond to popular foods of each decade over the past century. The month of March, for instance, features a macaroni and cheese bar with one free topping to honor the 1930s, while April’s special will be a 1940s-style meatloaf dinner and May’s special a 1950s-style tuna melt. Belgian waffles popularized throughout the 1960s will be available with one free topping throughout the month of June. According to the release, the specials will be honored at all four Red Arrow Diner locations, in Manchester, Concord, Londonderry and Nashua. The diner will also be conducting a Facebook campaign to honor a total of 100 other local businesses and is asking followers for nominations in any industry. Visit redarrowdiner.com/100 for more details.

Embrace the blend

A mix of grapes can produce one interesting bottle

We are all familiar with wines classified by the grapes used to make them — merlot, cabernet sauvignon, sangiovese — and wines named by their place of origin — Rhine, Bordeaux — but what does a label that reads “red blend” mean?

As its name implies, it is a wine produced from the blending of two or more varietals of grapes. The blending of grapes is steeped in the history and tradition of European winemaking, dating to at least the 17th century with the origin of modern wines as we know them today. Bordeaux wines are classic blended wines, the reds consisting of combinations of merlot or cabernet sauvignon, along with cabernet franc and petit verdot added in smaller quantities, and the whites generally consisting of sauvignon blanc, to which semillon is added to temper the citric, and more specifically grapefruit, notes of the sauvignon blanc. These blends date to the 18th century.

The concept and development of single varietal wines in America in the second half of the 20th century migrated to Europe, South Africa and Australia. To the extreme, some vintners have produced single vineyard varietals to showcase the strengths they feel those particular vineyards have. This is all a matter of opinion, and all these wine-making styles are welcome to the table. In a good wine, the blending of varietals is intended not to cover the deficiencies of the “lead varietal” but to add to the complexity of the whole. The blending of varietals is both a science and an art. The vintner must know the strengths of the grapes before him, but the vintner must also be able to know when to blend — at the fermentation of the grapes, or after they have become wine. The vintner must also have a deft touch to know just how much of which varietal to add to create not only a drinkable wine but a memorable wine.

Our first blended wine is the 2017 Domaine du Grand Montmirail Gigondas ‘Le Coteau de Mon Rêve’ (at the New Hampshire Liquor & Wine Outlets, originally priced at $59.99, reduced to $25.99) is a blend that comes from the Rhone River Valley of Southern France. With a dark red color and nose of cherry and plum, this wine comes to the tongue with a full mouth feel of blackberry, plum and cherry, with notes of chocolate and a bit of leather. It is composed of 75 percent grenache, 20 percent syrah and 5 percent mourvèdre.

Denis Cheron acquired the Domaine du Grand Montmirail in the 1960s. The estate vineyards are 59 acres, set on terraces, planted in 50-year-old grenache vines, along with 20-year-old syrah and mourvèdre vines. This is a sophisticated, plush wine to be enjoyed with beef, lamb or game, now, or it can be cellared over the coming decade.

Our second blended wine is the 2016 Darcie Kent Vineyards Firepit Red (available at the New Hampshire Liquor & Wine Outlets, originally priced at $40.99, reduced to $19.99), a blend that comes from Livermore, just east of the San Francisco Bay. To the nose we sense raspberry, blackberry and cherry flavors that carry to the tongue with additional notes of oak and spices. Gentle tannins persist to a long finish of cassis and nutmeg. The oak nuances come from 24 months in new and used French oak barrels.

This is a blend of malbec, zinfandel, cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc, petite sirah and merlot. The proportions may vary from year to year. The zinfandel gives the wine its spiciness; the petite sirah its concentration of tannins. In fact, many makers of zinfandel add petite sirah to quiet the pepper in the zinfandel. It should be noted that the petite sirah grape has nothing in common with the syrah grape of our first wine!

So the blending of grapes and of the wine from those grapes opens new opportunities, new flavors, and other characteristics to be explored and savored. Try a blended wine with your next purchase. You will welcome the experience.

Featured photo: Gunner’s Daughter by Mast Landing Brewing Company. Courtesy photo.

Lion with a straight face

It’s not spring yet.

Count on spring at this point, and you’ll only get your heart broken. There are at least two more blizzards and a lot of mud before spring gets here.

But there are hints. Whispers of hints. Whispers of innuendos of hints.

An afternoon where you can get the mail in shirtsleeves.

Old guys in the library parking lot talking about sugaring equipment.

Parts — only parts at this point, don’t get too excited — of your front steps are bare of snow and dry.

We’re still in the lion part of “In like a lion; out like a lamb.”

So I went looking for a lion-themed cocktail, and found something promising called a Lion’s Tail — a sort of a cross between a whiskey sour and a daiquiri, with front notes of bourbon and hope, and back notes of loneliness and bitter disappointment.

It’s good — very good — but with two small issues:

(1) It calls for bourbon, which is a good idea. Bourbon can be caramel-y and delicious and add a note of class to the proceedings. But I’m out of bourbon, and I can’t afford the good stuff, anyway. (You can fake your way through a lot of drinks with bottom-shelf rum or gin, but in my experience, most bourbon doesn’t get good until it is physically painful to pay for.)

(2) It calls for a specialty liqueur called allspice dram — a low-octane but very flavorful ingredient. As it turns out, I do have a bottle of it at the very back of my liquor cabinet — a relic of a short-lived but intense tiki phase I went through a year or so ago — but seriously, who else is going to have this kicking around?

So let’s see what we can do to replicate this with more proletarian ingredients:

Step 1 – Make the original cocktail with more-or-less original ingredients.

** Sound of clattering. “Mumble, mumble …” Measuring … **

“Google, how many dashes to fluid ounce?”

“Blah, blah … Was this answer helpful to you?”

“No! Not even a little bit! … Wait! I meant teaspoons….”

** More clattering, mumbling. Finally, the sound of a cocktail shaker, then pouring. **

Verdict: This is very good. The allspice is a big deal. Huh, go figure.

Step 2 – Replicating the recipe

Lion’s Butt Cocktail

Ingredients

  • Syrup – ¼ cup sugar, ¼ cup water, 20 allspice berries, cracked in a mortar and pestle
  • 2 ounces rye
  • ¾ ounce allspice syrup
  • ½ ounce fresh squeezed lime juice
  • ¼ tsp. angostura bitters

Combine sugar, water and allspice berries to a very small saucepan and stir, bring to a boil. Remove from heat and allow to steep for 30 minutes. Strain and set aside.

Combine rye, allspice syrup, lime juice and bitters with ice in a cocktail shaker.

Shake thoroughly, until you hear the ice splintering.

Strain into a coupé glass.

Verdict: Very nice, indeed.

The original cocktail was heavy on the allspice, which totally works — especially this time of year. For a tropical spice, it suits winter weather very well. This — I won’t say “knockoff” — er, tribute version is a little more lime-forward and a skosh less sweet. (I’ve grown to really like rye. I’m not sure why that’s surprising to me, but it is. But then again, almost-spring is a surprising time of year.) The rye works well with the lime, which works well with the slightly spicy syrup. Could this be slightly cloying and too sweet? Yes, but it is saved by the bitters swooping in, wearing a cape, and deflecting the sweetness.

If you find yourself with a warm afternoon, you might want to call in sick to that last video conference of the day, drag an easy chair out to the deck, and drink three of these while listening to songs you listened to while making questionable decisions in your youth.

The kids can eat cereal.

Featured photo: Photo by John Fladd.

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