Flavors of Jalisco

Los Reyes Street Tacos & More to open in Derry

Jose Reyes of Manchester comes from multiple generations of street food vending in Mexico — his father, grandfather and brother all continue to serve birria, or slow-stewed meat, on the streets of Reyes’s home state of Jalisco. With more than a decade of combined kitchen experience across multiple local Mexican eateries, from La Carreta to Puerto Vallarta, Jose Reyes and his wife Isabel are now honoring his family’s tradition with their first restaurant as owners.

Los Reyes Street Tacos & More, on track to open soon at the Hillside Plaza in Derry, will offer simple flavors of authentic Mexican street food, Isabel Reyes said.

“We didn’t want to just be ‘Los Reyes Mexican Restaurant.’ We really want to be known for our street tacos,” she said. “We’re going to have a menu section of different salsas and … they’re all going to have a little description and their own amount of kick to them.”

Co-owner Jose Reyes’s brother, father and grandfather are street vendors in Degollado, Jalisco, Mexico. Courtesy photo.

The eatery will operate in a mostly fast casual type of environment, with an open kitchen near the front and an advanced online ordering system expected to be implemented. Street tacos, quesadillas, burritos and bowls will all come with a variety of filling options, like carnitas, grilled chicken, chorizo, barbacoa beef, haddock, shrimp or sauteed veggies.

Other menu options the couple has in store include a Southwest chicken salad; Mexican street corn, either roasted or unroasted with lime, cotija cheese and a special cream sauce; and sopes, which Isabel Reyes described as being topped similar to tostadas, featuring refried beans, lettuce, tomato, cheese, sour cream and the desired filling, but with a fried masa, or corn, base.

Co-owner Jose Reyes’s brother, father and grandfather are street vendors in Degollado, Jalisco, Mexico. Courtesy photo.

Birria, Isabel Reyes said, is most commonly served on a plate in the form of goat meat. You won’t find goat on their menu, but you will be able to try quesabirras, inspired by the traditional stew and featuring beef, onion, cilantro and a side of consommé, or the stewed broth.

“It’s slow-stewed, so basically it’s cooked for six to eight hours until it’s very tender, and then it’s mixed in with different spices,” she said. “The consommé is basically the same stew that helped cook the meat, so we give you that to dip it in and it gives it that extra flavor.”

For dessert, Los Reyes will be offering items like churros and xangos, or cheesecake chimichangas. They’re also partnering with Dulces Bakery of Manchester to source their tres leches, or cakes soaked in three different types of milk that are then topped with homemade whipped cream and served in refrigerated single-portion cups. They come in a variety of flavors.

Drinks will feature selections of both domestic and Mexican imported beers, along with some local craft brew options, and flavors of agua fresca, a light fruit drink popular in Mexico.

Isabel Reyes said food specials will likely be added to the menu on a rotating basis.

“We may add new plates or new desserts maybe every three months or so, just to throw something out there and change it up,” she said. “We have a lot of ideas, and [Jose] loves to try to learn new and different things.”

Los Reyes Street Tacos & More
An opening date is expected to be announced soon. Visit their website or follow them on social media for updates.

Where: 127 Rockingham Road, Unit 15, Derry
Anticipated hours: Monday through Saturday; hours TBA but will be open for both lunch and dinner service (closed on Sundays)
More info: Visit losreyesstreettacos.com, or find them on Facebook @losreyestacosnh or on Instagram @losreyestacos_nh

Featured photo: Isabel and Jose Reyes, owners of Los Reyes Street Tacos & More. Photo by Matt Ingersoll.

The Weekly Dish 22/02/24

News from the local food scene

Last call for LaBelle Lights: LaBelle Winery Derry (14 Route 111) is closing out its inaugural LaBelle Lights outdoor light display with a special Mardi Gras celebration on Friday, Feb. 25, and Saturday, Feb. 26, when there will be themed food and drink items available for purchase, as well as beads, Zydeco music and more. These will be the final two dates of the season that LaBelle Lights will be open on the winery’s golf course — the festive outdoor light show has been open since just before Thanksgiving and very quickly exceeded expectations with thousands of visitors in just the first month alone, owner Amy LaBelle told the Hippo in December. Plans are already underway to bring LaBelle Lights back to the winery next winter. Tickets to either of the last two dates this weekend are $15, and the hours are from 4:30 to 9 p.m. each evening. Visit labellewinery.com/lights to purchase tickets.

Festival of wines: Speaking of Mardi Gras, there’s still time to get your tickets to A Mardi Gras Wine Festival, an event presented by St. Thomas Aquinas Church that’s happening at the Aquinas Center (26 Crystal Ave., Derry) on Saturday, Feb. 26, from 6 to 9 p.m. The evening is expected to include samplings and bottles for purchase from several New Hampshire-made wineries, including Zorvino Vineyards of Sandown, Appolo Vineyards of Derry and Flag Hill Distillery & Winery of Lee. There will also be live music, raffles, games, a door prize, food and more. Tickets are $40 per person or $70 per couple and can be purchased online or over the phone. Visit stthomasderry.org, find the event on Facebook or call the church office at 432-5000.

Go Greek: Join St. George Greek Orthodox Cathedral (650 Hanover St., Manchester), for An Apokreatiko Celebration, another Mardi Gras-themed event, happening on Saturday, Feb. 26, from 7 to 11 p.m. inside the church hall. There will be a variety of hors d’oeuvres available, in addition to a cash bar, Greek and American dancing, and a live performance from Greek DJs The Salonica Boys. Tickets are $20 per person and can be purchased either in advance or at the door. Children under the age of 12 receive free admission. In the coming months, St. George Greek Orthodox Cathedral has other upcoming drive-thru events planned, according to its most recent newsletter, including a lamb shank dinner on March 19, a fish dinner on April 17 and a gyro event on May 21. Visit stgeorgenh.org or call the church office at 622-9113.

Mein wines

Rediscover the wines of Germany and Austria

German and Austrian wines are often “forgotten wines,” wines that are not typically a “first choice” among those selecting wines, and that is unfortunate. The New Hampshire Liquor & Wine Outlets carry a paltry inventory of these wines. My wife and I gather with a group for a monthly wine tasting. It is both a social event and a lesson in exploring lesser-known wines. When we decided to try out German and Austrian wines, we had to travel to the Boston area for a more expansive inventory of what is available here in New England. The wines offered in this column are two of the more readily available wines to be found in New Hampshire.

Our first wine, the 2020 Landhaus Mayer Grüner Veltliner (originally priced at $13.99 and reduced to $11.99 at the New Hampshire Liquor & Wine Outlets until Feb. 27), is a good example of an Austrian white wine from Wien (Vienna), Lower Austria. Some critics of wine coming from this part of Austria consider the residents and tourists of this area to be undemanding of their wine, leading to “sloppiness” in its quality and production. Landhaus Mayer is a winery that runs counter to this perception. It has established a cooperative with the vineyard owners of this region to properly care for and cultivate their vineyards from pruning to the optimal harvest time. Gerhard J. Lobner, production manager of Landhaus Mayer, is a force in the production of quality wines, including riesling, rosé, zweigelt, and, of course, grüner veltliner.

This is a medium-bodied wine with elegant spicy aromas. It is refreshing and is perfect for pairing with dishes, including grilled chicken or pork, or to enjoy with a snack or sandwich. The color is light straw and to the nose there are notes of grapefruit. To the tongue there is a pleasant citric acidity with some herbal spiciness. It should be served cooled and would be perfect with Wiener schnitzel as its citric notes will complement the butter and lemon in the dish. This wine is a young wine and as such lacks aging potential. It should be consumed within two years of its vintage. Therefore, in purchasing this wine to serve at your next dinner party of Austrian cuisine, plan early, as this 2020 vintage is at its prime today.

Our second wine, the 2020 Valckenberg Gewürztraminer (also originally priced at $13.99 and reduced to $11.99 at the New Hampshire Liquor & Wine Outlets until Feb. 27), hails from Westhofen, along the Rhine River Valley, in the Palatinate region of Germany. Westhofen is known for its vineyards, with almost 2,000 acres planted, 69 percent in red wine varieties and 31 percent in white wine varieties. It is Germany’s fourth-biggest wine-growing region after Worms, Nierstein and Azey, all located along the Rhine. The soils of this region are gravelly limestone, which add a trace of minerality to the grapes.

For over 230 years P.J. Valckenberg has acted as an ambassador for wines of this region; that is, they purchase wines from 33 of the best vineyards of the Rhine and Mosel River regions. They provide these small vineyards, mostly consisting of well under 100 acres each, a worldwide market for their fine vintages.

This wine had a dry growing season from start to finish resulting in a near perfect grape to create a near perfect wine. With its light straw color and floral notes to the nose, it comes to the tongue with notes of pear and peaches. It is slightly sweet with just the right finish. It is ideally suited to pairing with pork or rich fish such as salmon or tuna, and its slight sweetness is ideal as an accompaniment to spicy foods. This wine is a great value and because of its semi-sweetness it can be cellared for up to five years.

These are two decidedly different wines worthy of exploration. Broadening our palates with new and different varietals and wines will not only lead us to new experiences but may spur the industry to expand inventories to satisfy our curiosity and expanded knowledge of wine.

Featured photo: Courtesy photo.

The Amateur Actress

You know those people who look at an ultra-modern piece of art and get legitimately angry about it?

“That’s not Art! My 5-year-old could paint that!”

Aside from the implication that young children can’t produce real art, I’m always struck by the irony of the situation. Good art is supposed to elicit an emotional reaction. The rage those viewers express is a pretty good indication that the art they are looking at is working on some level.

“Amateur Opossum Actress” by Rebecca Kriz, Used with permission of the artist.

Consider the paintings in hotel rooms or bank lobbies. They are designed to be as inoffensive and unobtrusive as possible. Some of them are easy on the eyes, but how artistic are they?

Then, there’s something like “Amateur Opossum Actress” by Rebecca Kriz.

I contend — hear me out on this — that this painting ranks up there with a Norman Rockwell illustration in terms of striking an emotional chord of recognition. I suspect this opossum and my mother might have a long and fruitful exchange of ideas. Or, alternatively, a long, uncomfortable lunch, blanketed in sullen silence.

Imagine walking through a gallery, looking at impenetrable paintings of storm-wracked beaches or girls in black crying in the rain, and discussing ridiculous things like artists’ use of metaphor in a post-Marxist emotional landscape, then finding yourself in front of this opossum painting.

You would almost certainly laugh out loud.

Never mind the opossum; this painting expresses such a relatable human emotion that you’d have to be a very bitter person to not love it.

And what should you drink while you stand admiring it? Complimentary gallery chardonnay and cheese cubes don’t quite capture the spirit of this piece.

The title is “Amateur Opossum Actress,” which gives us a little bit of context. We want something that, while appealing, tries a little too hard. It should carry a little bit of the sweetness of a picture of an opossum, combined with a touch of the bracing experience of facing an actual opossum.

I suggest this:

The Amateur Actress

Ingredients

  • 2 ounces dry gin — I’m still enthusiastic about Death’s Door.
  • ½ ounce orange curaçao — Grand Marnier or Cointreau would work well here, too.
  • ½ ounce fresh squeezed lime juice
  • ¼ ounce grenadine (pomegranate syrup)

Shake all ingredients thoroughly.

Strain into a chilled cocktail glass.

The twin keys to this cocktail are the use of an overly fancy glass, and drinking it skull-shrinkingly cold. After testing several different methods of chilling glasses, my go-to is rinsing a glass, then putting it in the freezer for 20 minutes. This works especially well in the summer, when humid air will condense into a thin layer of frost on the outside of the glass.

This is a take on a classic drink called a Pink Palace, and the color is definitely part of its appeal. The lime juice provides a good sour bridge from the sweetness of the orange liqueur to the crispness of the gin.

Sweet, like an amateur actress.

Icy, like her rage with her pretty understudy. (A hamster.)

More of this artist’s work can be found on her website at rebeccakriz.com or at inprnt.com/gallery/rebecca_kriz/amateur-opossum-actress.

Featured photo: The Amateur Actress. John Fladd photo.

Brunched up grapefruit

When you think about brunch, the first thing you may consider is what restaurant you’ll be dining at. I want you to consider something else: having brunch at home. There are definite benefits to this, including being able to enjoy brunch in your coziest pajamas.

A well-rounded brunch will include some fruits and veggies, and you could go with the always popular fruit salad, but I want to suggest a dish that is so much more elegant: brunched up grapefruit.

Many a brunch includes halved grapefruits. This dish takes that idea and adds a few levels of elegance. First, this grapefruit is served with the rind removed, so there’s no awkward digging with a spoon while juice squirts into your eye. Second, each slice is broiled with a pinch of sugar to provide a melding of sweet and sour. Third, the fruit is then topped with silky yogurt and crunchy (and salted) pistachios, as well as a drizzle of honey. It’s a carnival of flavors and textures.

Best of all, this grapefruit has a beautiful presentation but takes all of (maybe) 15 minutes to make. Get your guest list ready and finish creating the menu. I see a delicious brunch in your future!

Brunched up grapefruit
Serves 6

3 large red grapefruit
1 Tablespoon granulated sugar
1/2 cup roasted & salted pistachios
3/4 cup plain Greek yogurt
Honey

Preheat broiler.
Line a baking sheet with foil.
Slice grapefruit into ¼- to ½-inch slices, width-wise.
Remove rind from each slice using a paring knife.
Transfer slices to foil-lined baking sheet using a spatula. (They are very delicate)
Sprinkle each slice with a small amount of sugar.
Place baking sheet approximately 4 inches under broiler for 5 minutes or until edges are golden.
While grapefruit cooks, chop pistachios into small pieces.
Remove grapefruit from oven.
Divide grapefruit slices between two serving plates.
Top grapefruit with a small dollop of yogurt.
Drizzle honey over yogurt.
Sprinkle with chopped pistachios.
Eat immediately to enjoy the warmth of the grapefruit.

Featured Photo: Brunched up grapefruit. Photo by Michele Pesula Kuegler.

In the kitchen with Reni Mylonas

Reni Mylonas of Danville is the owner of Agape Cakes and Confections (agapecandc.com, find her on Facebook and Instagram), a homestead business specializing in custom cakes, cupcakes and assorted Greek pastries using family recipes. A self-taught cake decorator, Mylonas started baking around the age of 9. She also gained experience working in a few local bakeries along the way prior to starting Agape, named after the Greek word meaning “love,” in 2020. In addition to custom-decorated wedding cakes, she accepts orders through her website for a variety of homemade Greek pastries for local delivery, from baklava to braided tea cookies, and she’ll usually offer specialty items around each holiday. Mylonas is also working toward opening a storefront in Raymond — Agape Cakes and Confections is on track to open in the Cozy Corner shopping plaza on Route 27 this April and will feature a weekly case of cupcakes, cookies, Greek pastries and other grab-and-go treats.

What is your must-have kitchen item?

It would probably be a precision scale. That’s like my best friend in the kitchen.

What would you have for your last meal?

Probably pasta. I can eat pasta in a million different variations, and I would never get sick of it.

What is your favorite local restaurant?

Nick’s Place in Raymond. Everything that I’ve had on their menu is absolutely amazing, and their atmosphere is so warm and welcoming. … I love their fried seafood and also their roast beef sandwiches.

What is your favorite thing that you’ve made for a client?

I think my personal favorite thing … was actually my first very large wedding cake that I did. It was a huge three-tiered cake that was probably 80 or 90 pounds and it fed 150 to 200 people, which is a lot more than what I’m used to, and it was beautifully decorated with gorgeous orchids. … I’m always up for a challenge, and so it was really rewarding to execute their vision and make it a reality. I was beyond happy with how it came out.

What celebrity would you like to bake for?

I’m a huge sucker for cooking shows. I’d have to say Bobby Flay is my No. 1, and then Anne Burrell or Alex Guarnaschelli. … Their talent is just so amazing to me that it would make my entire life if they had something that I made.

What is the biggest food trend in New Hampshire right now?

Cake popsicles. They are a fun spin on cake pops, only a lot bigger and in a popsicle form, so decorating-wise you can do a lot more with them.

What is your favorite thing to cook at home?

For the past two years I’ve been learning how to do homemade pasta. I love the art and the technique behind it. … Working with the different shapes is almost like working with clay, just kind of building each individual piece.

Homemade chocolate ganache
From the kitchen of Reni Mylonas of Agape Cakes and Confections, agapecandc.com

1 cup heavy cream
1 cup chocolate chips of choice

Pour the heavy cream into a small pot and let it simmer on medium heat. Place the chocolate chips in a metal bowl (do not use glass). Once the heavy cream has reached a boil, pour over the chocolate. Let the mixture sit for three minutes without stirring. After the three minutes are up, whisk until the chocolate is incorporated. Set aside and let it cool before using. Store in the refrigerator for up to two weeks and enjoy on fruit or for use in cakes or cupcakes.

Featured photo: Reni Mylonas. Courtesy photo.

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