Category: Food

In the kitchen with Celine Costa

Celine Costa of Newton is the owner and head chef of Up Street Food Truck (upstreetfoodtruck.wixsite.com/upstreet, [email protected], and on Facebook and Instagram), which she runs with her partner, Scott Magnusson. Up Street gets its name from its “upscale street food” concept, offering a rotating menu of options like fish tacos, sandwiches, hand-breaded chicken tenders, Thai curry fries or tater tots, fried pickles and more. Since launching the 32- by 10-foot trailer last year, Costa and Magnusson have parked at several spots all over New Hampshire, including Lithermans Limited Brewery in Concord and North Country Hard Cider in Rollinsford, and have participated in local events. Up Street is also available to book for corporate events, weddings and private parties and gatherings.

What is your must-have kitchen item?

Herbs are such a big part of our cooking, whether they’re in the dish or as a garnish. I like pairing herbs with different things that you wouldn’t think would necessarily go together.

What would you have for your last meal?

I would definitely do malai kofta from Gypsy Cafe in Lincoln. It’s a north Indian potato dish with vegetables, rolled into little balls in a tomato cream sauce, and they serve it with basmati rice. It’s so delicious.

What is your favorite local restaurant?

Cafe El Camino in Plaistow. They’re right down the street from us and they’ve been really good friends. … I would say their beef empanadas are probably one of the best things on the menu, but they have a new guava and cheese empanada that is also really good.

What celebrity would you like to see ordering from your food truck?

Conan O’Brien, because he is my favorite. … I had a dream one time that Scott invited him to my birthday party, so now I just have this whole scene in my head of him showing up. … Scott said Adam Sandler would be pretty cool, too.

What is your favorite thing on your menu?

We recently did a sandwich that we called One Hot Honey. It’s a hot honey fried chicken sandwich with a chile-infused hot honey and a spring mix. That’s probably my No. 1.

What is the biggest food trend in New Hampshire right now?

One thing that definitely comes to mind is charcuterie boards. I feel like everybody is doing their own version of their charcuterie board, or something to do with charcuterie. … There’s also an emphasis on buying local. I feel like I see that growing more and more, especially as we travel around.

What is your favorite thing to cook at home?

I would say my grandmother’s cranberry chicken recipe. It just brings back good childhood memories and it’s wicked easy to make.

Beama’s cranberry chicken
From the kitchen of Celine Costa of Up Street Food Truck

8 chicken breasts (totaling 4 pounds)
1 16-ounce can whole-berry cranberry sauce
1 8-ounce bottle Catalina dressing
1 package onion soup mix

Place chicken breasts in a greased baking dish. Preheat the oven to 355 degrees. Combine all other ingredients in a pot and simmer on low heat, stirring until ingredients have combined well. Pour cranberry mixture over chicken and bake for roughly one hour, or until the chicken reaches an internal temperature of 165 degrees. (Suggestion: serve with rice pilaf, grape goat cheese garden salad and cranberry gin and tonic with a sprig of burnt rosemary).

Featured photo: Celine Costa. Courtesy photo.

Hometown comfort

Hare of the Dawg Bar & Grill opens in Derry

For longtime Derry couple Kevin and Lesley Decker, the restaurant business is a new venture, but their vision was simple: a local bar and grill with comfort foods, craft beers and cocktails, where the atmosphere is laid back and everybody knows each other’s names, à la Cheers.

Hare of the Dawg — or “the Dawg,” if you prefer, as Kevin Decker said some are already calling it — opened Jan. 9 in downtown Derry. The Deckers took over the space last year that had long been occupied by the C & K Restaurant and quickly began renovations, which include a 24-seat custom bar built from the ground up by local woodworker Matt Daily of Dailydoes.

The eatery’s name, Kevin Decker said, is a play on the “hair of the dog that bit you,” an old expression commonly heard in bars. The logo features a big black Newfoundland dressed in flannel garb, holding a beer-filled stein with a rabbit (or a “hare”) poking its head out of the top.

“Hair of the dog just means having another drink the day after to cure a hangover, so in other words, having some of the ‘hair of the dog that bit you’ the night before,” Decker said. “We just thought it was a cool name, and we loved the play on words, so we had a lot of fun designing the logo. … The flannel shirt … represents the theme that we wanted, kind of a blue-collar bar. We’re not trying to be a high-end restaurant. We’re trying to be a place where the locals can gather at the end of the work day and have an affordable drink and meal.”

The Deckers recruited Alan Severance, a Manchester native and veteran chef of more than 20 years, to design and oversee the menu. Severance’s culinary resume includes stints at several other local eateries, from The Foundry Restaurant and Moe Joe’s Family Restaurant in Manchester to the former DRAE and CR Sparks restaurants in Derry and Bedford, respectively.

“Kevin and I really wanted a comfort food menu,” Lesley Decker said. “Nothing is pre-made here, so you’re not going to get a frozen spring roll or a frozen mozzarella cheese stick.”

With an opening during the middle of winter, she said warm options like soups, chowders, melts and shepherd’s pie are all part of the menu’s initial lineup of items. But additional colder options, including lighter salads and sandwiches, will likely be part of the menu by the spring or summer.

Appetizers include “Rib off the Hawg” dry-rubbed and slow-roasted St. Louis-style ribs; house-made truffle fries with a shaved Parmesan cheese; and multiple flavors of fried spring rolls, from a Grecian option with spinach, artichoke and feta cheese to a “Rollin Reuben” with slow-cooked corned beef, sauerkraut, Swiss cheese and a side of Thousand Island dressing for dipping.

There is also a build-your-own pizza option with nearly two dozen toppings to customize your pie with, as well as a few specialty flatbreads. The Arezzo flatbread, for instance, features a house mushroom prosecco cream sauce with sauteed spinach, mushroom, feta and mozzarella, while the “WaHuaGo” has a fig and balsamic glaze, caramelized pear, toasted crushed walnuts, and brie and honey goat cheeses. Burgers, sandwiches, sauteed plates and house entrees like meatloaf, fried haddock and beef tips round out the menu.

Hare of the Dawg’s bar features 12 tap lines of beer, and Kevin Decker said he’s aiming to have at least half of those always rotating out with local craft brew options.

“My hope is to bring in some smaller local brewers and do kind of like a craft brewers night, where we’d keep a tap open for them and people can come and sample their stuff,” he said.

A brunch menu of chef’s plates and a bloody mary bar is in the works to debut in the coming months. Lesley Decker added that a special food menu for dogs will be added once the weather is warm enough for them to open their outdoor patio.

“The doggie menu … will have a sweet potato burger that’s served on a Frisbee with our logo on it,” she said.

Hare of the Dawg Bar & Grill

Where: 3 E. Broadway, Derry
Hours: Monday, Wednesday and Thursday, 11 a.m. to 9 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 11 a.m. to 10 p.m., and Sunday, 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. (closed on Tuesdays)
More info: Find them on Facebook @hareofthedawg (the website, hareofthedawgnh.com, will be live soon and will have an online ordering option) or call 552-3883

Featured photo: Rib off the Hawg (dry-rubbed slow-roasted St. Louis-style ribs). Photo by Matt Ingersoll.

Flavors of the islands

Caribbean Breeze now open in Nashua

A new restaurant in Nashua is a one-stop culinary destination for authentic Caribbean eats, featuring Haitian, Cuban, Puerto Rican, Jamaican and Dominican items all under the same roof.

Jamaican jerk chicken. Photo courtesy of Caribbean Breeze.

Caribbean Breeze, now open in the former Norton’s Classic Cafe space on the corner of Main and West Hollis streets, is owned and operated by Gerald Oriol, a seasoned executive chef with more than three decades of experience. Originally from Port-au-Prince, Haiti, Oriol said he came up with the idea for Caribbean Breeze’s concept after noticing a lack of area establishments that offered a variety of menu items from more than one island nation or territory.

“This is a true Caribbean restaurant,” Oriol said. “You can order food from different countries in the Caribbean [and] you have more than one choice if you wanted to try different flavors.”

The eatery’s dinner menu breaks down each item by its origin and gives you the option to choose plated entrees or side dishes from there. For the most part, Oriol said, their differences have to do with traditional cooking styles, spices and seasoning bases, rather than the foods themselves. Griot, for instance, is a Haitian dish featuring pork shoulder marinated in a citrus spice, braised and then fried before it’s served with pikliz, a spicy pickled vegetable slaw. Pernil, on Caribbean Breeze’s Puerto Rican menu, is also pork shoulder, but is slow-cooked and served with arroz con gandules, or a combination of rice and pigeon peas.

Pineapple upside down cake. Photo courtesy of Caribbean Breeze.

Other options include Haitian-style red snapper; Jamaican oxtail, curry or jerk chicken; mofongo, a Puerto Rican dish featuring fried mashed plantains; pollo guisado, or Dominican stewed chicken; scratch-made pineapple upside-down cake as a dessert; and ropa vieja, the national dish of Cuba featuring shredded slow-cooked beef served with black beans and rice.

Because the space had an established loyal following for its breakfast when it was known as Norton’s, Oriol said, he decided to continue it. That menu includes many familiar items the former cafe was known for, from pancakes, French toast and Belgian waffles to egg sandwiches, omelets and more. A lunch menu, served six days a week from 10:30 a.m. to 3:30 p.m., similarly features many of the same burgers, sandwiches, wraps and salads.

Oriol hopes to add more Caribbean entrees to the menu as time goes on, while the bar in the back of the restaurant will also soon be serving various beers imported from each island. Eventually, he said, he’d like to begin branding Caribbean Breeze as a franchise with additional locations.

Caribbean Breeze

Where: 233 Main St., Nashua
Hours: Daily, 7 a.m. to 1:30 p.m. and 4:30 to 9 p.m. (2:30 to 9 p.m. for DoorDash or GrubHub)
Call 883-4340 or find them on DoorDash or GrubHub to place an order.

Featured photo: Haitian red snapper. Photo courtesy of Caribbean Breeze.

The Weekly Dish 22/01/20

News from the local food scene

• Wine Week called off: New Hampshire Wine Week and the Easterseals Winter Wine Spectacular, scheduled to happen next week, have been canceled due to the continuous rise in Covid-19 cases, the state Liquor Commission announced in a Jan. 12 statement. All ticket sales to the week’s events will be refunded and the NHLC said it is “working with all of our partners to minimize the impact of this decision.” The statement says that given the ongoing uncertainty surrounding the future of the pandemic, New Hampshire Wine Week will not be rescheduled in 2022. “We look forward to seeing everyone in January 2023,” the statement reads. Visit nhwineweek.com to read the Liquor Commission’s full announcement.

• Fody’s winter festival to return: Get your tickets now before they’re gone to the second annual winter festival at Fody’s Tavern in Derry (187½ Rockingham Road) — the two-day event is scheduled to take place on Friday, Jan. 28, and Saturday, Jan. 29, beginning at 5 p.m. each day. Co-owner Maria Foden told the Hippo a variety of outdoor festivities are planned, from live local music each evening and an LED light show to vendor booths and pourings from several area breweries, like Great North Aleworks, Long Blue Cat Brewing Co., Rockingham Brewing Co. and others. Multiple ice bars and hot food stations are also expected, including a fire pit with make-your-own s’mores. Tickets are $15 per person (event is 21+ only) — search “Fody’s Tavern Winter Festival” on Eventbrite for more details.

• Brews and bites: Concord Craft Brewing Co. (117 Storrs St., Concord) is now serving food out of its newly expanded tasting room. Concord Craft Kitchen, which opened on Jan. 12, features a light menu of shareable items like honey garlic chicken tapas on naan bread, house-made hummus with pita chips, and spent grain beer pretzels served with a sweet mustard and a house Kapitol Kölsch cheese sauce. Also included are seasoned burgers, salads and smaller items for kids like pizzas and grilled cheeses. According to co-owner Dennis Molnar, the goal is to add stone oven flatbread pizzas to the menu by the brewery’s fifth anniversary celebration on Saturday, Jan. 22. Concord Craft Kitchen’s current hours are Wednesday through Friday, from 4 to 8:30 p.m., and Saturday, from 11 a.m. to 8:30 p.m., Molnar said — the brewery will remain open on Tuesday and Sunday for beer only. Follow them on Facebook @concordcraftbrewing.

• Uncle Joey’s opens in Merrimack: A new restaurant specializing in New York-style pizzas, pastas, fried chicken options, roast beef sandwiches and family-sized to-go dinners is now open in Merrimack. Uncle Joey’s held its grand opening Jan. 10, according to its website and social media pages — the eatery is at 733 Daniel Webster Hwy., the former spot of Spartan Pizza, which closed last fall. Uncle Joey’s is open Sunday through Thursday, from 11 a.m. to 8 p.m., and Friday and Saturday, from 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. According to its website, an online ordering platform is coming soon. Visit unclejoeysnh.com, find them on Facebook and Instagram or call 424-5693 to place an order.

Quarantining with beer

You’re going to need something

At about 3:30 a.m. on a recent Sunday morning, my youngest daughter woke up with a fever. As we are in a global pandemic and we happened to have a couple rapid tests on hand, we tested her for Covid, and sure enough she came back positive.

The following day, my son developed what I will delicately call an “annoying” cough — he also tested positive. Later that evening, my wife noticed that I, too, had developed an annoying cough. I could feel her cringing every time I coughed, or grunted, as she said. Spoiler alert: I had it too.

Hard to call it anything other than an outbreak. My wife remained like a beacon of strength refusing to succumb but for the rest of us, we had to work through what ultimately felt like a pretty standard, fairly fast-moving, if annoying cold.

We know we’re fortunate to have had a mild experience with the illness, but I also know that it’s tough to be stuck in close quarters with the same people day after day after day. It was like we regressed to the early days of the pandemic when we never left the house.

I love my family dearly, but all that closeness begs for a beer or two — especially since whatever variant I ended up with took it easy on my taste buds. I know my wife needed something as she dealt with — and tried to avoid — all of us.

As the omicron variant seems to be running roughshod through masks and vaccines and social distancing, I suspect I’m not alone in finding myself back in quarantine, if not dealing with the actual illness, then certainly isolating due to a “close contact.” Here are three beers that I think just might help you through it. Stock up now.

Peanut Butter Imperial Stout by Mighty Squirrel Brewing Co. (Waltham, Mass.)

From the brewery’s “Indulge Series,” this is just that, an indulgence, a wonderful indulgence. This is rich and creamy and silky and so, so smooth, bringing together the delicious flavor of peanut butter and chocolate. You’re thinking this is like a peanut butter cup in a glass and that’s about right. Savor this one at the end of a long day spent in your house, alone.

Line of Sight Triple IPA by Stoneface Brewing Co. (Newington)

When you’re in quarantine, you’ve got to amp up the alcohol content sometimes. While I haven’t tried this one, at 10 percent ABV this should do the trick when it comes to alcohol. It’s at the upper threshold with regard to alcohol content for what I consider drinkable when it comes to IPAs. The brewery says it features notes of “ripe melon and sweet lychee fruits.” (Lychee is a tropical fruit that has a strawberry-melon flavor, according to the Spruce Eats.)

Velvety Antlers Brown Ale by Granite Roots Brewing (Troy)

Brown ales are perfect anytime, so why not when you’re trying to grab a moment of relaxation in the middle of your isolation? This brew is nutty and flavorful in a balanced, drinkable package — as it should be.

What’s in My Fridge

Celebrator by Ayinger Privatbrauerei (Aying, Germany)
My brother brought a six-pack of this fantastic brew to a family get-together on New Year’s Day and I’m personally quite thankful that he did. This “doppelbock” features a deep, dark, reddish pour — almost black, honestly — and a delicious maltiness. But don’t be fooled. This is not heavy at all. This couldn’t be more welcoming; I cannot imagine anyone not liking this. It has a touch of sweetness and maybe a touch of coffee flavor before you can embrace the incredible smoothness. I know “smooth” is an overused phrase when talking about beer and the like but it’s definitely the right fit here. Find this beer. Also, am I trying to butter up my brother with this description to make up for the fact that my daughter gave him Covid? No comment. Cheers!

Featured photo: Peanut Butter Imperial Stout by Mighty Squirrel Brewing Company. Courtesy photo.

Plum & prosciutto bites

We are now entering the doldrums of New England winter. There are an unknown number of cold and snowy days in our future. To remove some of the cold, I often like to warm my home with a pot of soup on the stove or a loaf of bread in the oven. Other times I like to make dishes that remind me of warmer days. These bites fall into the latter category.

Made with a plum slice base, these petite appetizers evoke memories of steamy summer days. As your mind travels to thoughts of warmer places, your palate will be enticed by the combination of flavors. Salty prosciutto tops silky cream cheese, both of which are placed upon a slightly tart and slightly sweet slice of plum. In fact all of the elements are so nicely balanced, you may consider eating more than your share!

In addition to being a few-ingredient, small-amount-of-time recipe, it is also low-maintenance. As opposed to many recipes, the thickness of the prosciutto is negotiable. If you have prosciutto that’s paper-thin, it will work. If your prosciutto is thicker than that, it will be fine also. For the cream cheese, whatever you have on hand is perfect. Light, whipped, tub, or bar — all are fine options. Finally, even the plums don’t have to be at the height of ripeness. That sprinkle of sugar and broiler time will help any plum that is underripe.

Let the “I’m pretending it isn’t winter” snacking begin!

Plum & prosciutto bites
Serves 4-6

2 ounces cream cheese, softened
4 slices prosciutto
4 plums
2 teaspoons granulated sugar

Heat a nonstick frying pan over medium heat.
Cut each prosciutto slice into four smaller rectangles.
Place prosciutto rectangles in the heated frying pan, cooking each side for 30 seconds or until crispy.
Transfer to a plate or cutting board.
Preheat broiler on high.
Cut the plums in half along the crease; remove and discard the pit.
Cut each half of the plum in half, so that you have four round disks.*
Sprinkle each slice with a pinch of sugar.
Transfer plum slices to a broiler pan.
Place broiler pan on a rack in the highest part of your oven, and cook until sugar melts. (This will take anywhere from 30 seconds to a couple minutes; keep a close eye.)
Remove plum slices from broiler.
Top each plum with a scant amount of cream cheese and a prosciutto rectangle, folded as needed.
Can be served immediately or refrigerated for an hour or two prior to serving.

*If needed, refer to the image attached to this recipe. You want disks, not wedges, of plum for this recipe.

Photo: Plum & prosciutto bites. Photo by Michele Pesula Kuegler

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