Category: Food

Coffee and community

The Brothers’ Cortado opens in Concord

While living out in Colorado in the early 2000s, Loudon native Chuck Nemiccolo developed a newfound admiration for coffee, thanks in part to the vibrant cafe culture of downtown Denver.

“There was this really cool place called Paris on the Platte, and it was basically like a 24-hour punk rock cafe,” he said. “It was a place where people from all walks of life were coming in, having coffee and just getting along. … That was kind of like the spark for me, when I really started to care about what I was drinking and where I was spending my money.”

Nemiccolo returned to the Granite State a few years later and worked at Starbucks in Concord for a time. But he always held on to a dream of one day opening his own spot — a cafe focused on community, local products and great coffee.

The Brothers’ Cortado, which opened in the Capital City on Nov. 18, is the culmination of that dream. Chuck and his younger brother Ian Nemiccolo have joined forces to make it a reality, purchasing the former True Brew Barista storefront in Bicentennial Square and getting it ready with the help of other family members and friends.

Courtesy of The Brothers’ Cortado.

If you ever visited the space as True Brew, you’ll likely first notice that the Nemiccolos have switched entrances, utilizing what was the former location’s bar as their main cafe area. Unlike its predecessor, the Brothers’ Cortado does not serve alcoholic beverages onsite.

“It had more light to it, and it felt more open and welcoming overall on that side,” Chuck Nemiccolo said. “We felt that it kind of fit best with what we wanted for the space.”

Coffees and teas at the Brothers’ Cortado are sourced from A&E, a USDA-certified organic roaster that launched in 2001. Nemiccolo’s lineup of drinks includes hot and iced coffees and espressos. He also makes his own syrups in house.

The cafe has a namesake drink with espresso and steamed milk, while other options include a peppermint mocha, a bourbon vanilla latte and a mocha borgia with orange.

“[We have] an Ethiopian blend for our light to medium roast. It’s bright and sweet, so it will be good for people that maybe want to experience something a little bit new,” Nemiccolo said. “Our flavors that we’re [bringing] to the lattes are not … super sweet, but sweet enough. We want a nice well-balanced drink that people can enjoy.”

Tea drinkers will find a diverse roster as well, from blueberry black, green mango and golden milk teas, to an herbal blend called New Hampshire Evening.

“The New Hampshire Evening is almost like root beer. It’s incredibly good,” Nemiccolo said. “I’m not a big tea drinker but I’ve fallen in love with it. It cuts down on the chamomile taste … and it just makes it a nice smooth experience.”

The Brothers’ Cortado is partnering with Concord bakery Bread & Chocolate to serve cheese Danishes, croissants and other pastries available daily out of a refilled case. Nemiccolo also hopes to eventually begin offering sandwiches, fruit or cheese boards and other small food items.

While it will start out with closing at 4:30 p.m. each day, the goal is for the cafe to expand to being open in the evenings at least a few times a week. Performances from local musicians, as well as themed events like poetry nights, are all being planned for the space.

“We want it to be a place where people can hang out and just relax and feel comfortable being at,” Nemiccolo said.

The Brothers’ Cortado

Where: 3 Bicentennial Square, Concord
Hours: Monday through Saturday, 7 a.m. to 4:30 p.m.
More info: Visit brotherscortado.com, or find them on Facebook and Instagram @brotherscortado

Featured photo: Owners and brothers Chuck and Ian Nemiccolo. Courtesy photo.

Tastes of Trinidad

Manchester’s Wild Orchid Bakery finds a new home on Elm Street

After operating a bakeshop on Manchester’s West Side for a short time last year, self-taught pastry chef and Trinidad native Shelly-Anne Storer has found a new home downtown, where she has expanded her lineup of items to include vegan and gluten-free desserts and savory meals.

Stewed chicken with potatoes, Spanish rice, callaloo and sweet plantains.

Wild Orchid Bakery, now open in the former Lala’s Hungarian Pastry storefront on Elm Street, features a wide selection of custom offerings inspired by flavors of Storer’s homeland. The bakery’s name, she said, even comes from a connection she made between Trinidad and New Hampshire — both have an abundance of wildflower species.

“I wanted to bring part of my home here,” said Storer, who is originally from Diego Martin on Trinidad’s northwestern coast but has lived in the United States since late 2013. “It’s kind of like an oasis. You come in and you see the bright colors and you hear the music, and you’re like, ‘Whoa, where am I? I’m not in the city anymore.’ … Trinidadian food is so flexible. It’s like a melting pot for different cultures, so you can taste all kinds of foods.”

Since opening the doors of her new space earlier this month, Storer has slowly introduced new items each week, from sweeter indulgences like black currant rolls and guava and cream cheese pastries to savory home-cooked meals like corn soup and stewed chicken and curry plates. Callaloo, a vegetable dish cooked in coconut milk that Storer described as being similar to collard greens or okra, and dhal, a yellow split pea-based dish that can be consumed over rice or in a soup, have also been accompaniments to her Trinidadian lunch plates. The bakery even features a selection of bagged snacks and bottled drinks you can try that are popular in Trinidad.

Other dishes like shark and bake, a popular Trinidadian street food, and saltfish buljol, a chopped fish and vegetable salad, will likely be introduced sometime in the future. Storer also has plans to roll out a Trinidadian black cake typically enjoyed around Christmas as the holidays draw near.

Jelly doughnuts.

“It’s a rum-soaked cake, and you only have one slice at a time because it’s so strong,” she said. “After Christmas we’d just have one little sliver of a piece because that was all you needed.”

In addition to cooking and baking some favorite foods she grew up with, Storer has a regularly stocked case of pastries and baked goods, which include her own line of gourmet doughnuts in a variety of flavors, as well as cookies, cupcakes, scones, pies, sticky buns and sweet breads. She also fulfills custom cake orders for occasions large and small.

Continuing a partnership she had at her former shop, Storer is once again collaborating with Mike Brown of Hometown Coffee Roasters in Manchester, offering coffees and espresso drinks with some of his blends, and she’s looking to expand on her own line of flavors.

Adorning the walls of Wild Orchid Bakery are prints and artwork from various local painters and photographers, available for sale. Storer hopes to soon acquire a liquor license, with the intent to serve island-style drinks and brunch cocktails like mimosas and bloody marys.

Wild Orchid Bakery

Where: 836 Elm St., Manchester
Hours: Monday and Thursday, 7 a.m. to 2 p.m., and Friday, Saturday and Sunday, 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. (hours may be subject to change)
More info: Visit wildorchidbakery.com, find them on Facebook and Instagram @wildorchidbakery or call 935-7338

Featured photo: Assorted doughnuts, Trinidadian pastries and coffee. All photos courtesy of Wild Orchid Bakery.

The Weekly Dish 21/11/25

News from the local food scene

• Keep on brewing: Granite State craft breweries are among those across the country observing the third annual Small Brewery Sunday on Sunday, Nov. 28. The day was created by the Brewers Association as a way to encourage beer lovers to celebrate and support locally owned breweries, brewpubs and taprooms, according to a press release. The Association is inviting breweries everywhere, including those in New Hampshire, to share their Small Brewery Sunday experiences on their social media channels using the hashtags #SmallBrewerySunday and #SeekTheSeal. The industry as a whole is still working to recover from a 9 percent overall drop in craft beer sales in 2020, according to the release. The New Hampshire Brewers Association is also continuing its New Hampshire Pint Days fundraiser through Wednesday, Dec. 1, featuring limited-edition collectible 16-ounce pint glasses that are available for sale at more than 30 participating breweries statewide. Visit smallbrewerysunday.com.

• Bringing on the blueberries: Berrybogg Farm in Strafford will soon be selling a new blueberry cookbook, along with a 2022 calendar and other items like apparel and accessories, in commemoration of its 45th anniversary. According to its website, the online store will reopen on Friday, Nov. 26, with each of these items available for sale. The cookbook is expected to feature dozens of blueberry-based recipes, from simple jams and syrups to baked goods and desserts. Berrybogg Farm spans about 7 acres, growing nine varieties of blueberries over a period of roughly six weeks from mid- to late July into August. Visit berryboggfarm.com.

• Sweet deal: Loon Chocolate, a small-batch producer of handcrafted bean-to-bar chocolate based in Manchester, is moving its operations into The Factory on Willow (252 Willow St.), where it will expand its manufacturing space and add a retail space for its products. Construction on the product began earlier this month. According to Loon Chocolate owner and founder Scott Watson, he hopes to move into the space just after Christmas and have it open to the public around Jan. 29. Loon Chocolate features several types of flavored chocolate bars and has since diversified its product line into other offerings like hot cocoa bombs, cacao nibs, and a chocolate-infused elixir kit for spirits. Visit loonchocolate.com or follow them on Facebook and Instagram @loonchocolate for updates.

• Give thanks with beer: Join Northwoods Brewing Co. and its sister restaurant, Johnson’s Seafood & Steak (1334 1st New Hampshire Turnpike, Northwood) for a Northwoods Friendsgiving on Friday, Nov. 26, beginning at noon. The event will feature a variety of dark and seasonal brews from more than a dozen guest breweries on tap, including Great North Aleworks, To Share Brewing Co., Twin Barns Brewing Co. and Lithermans Limited, as well as live music from 5 to 7 p.m. with Cecil Abels and Rachel McCartney. Visit northwoodsbrewingcompany.com.

Too much hops

Sometimes you need anything but IPA

There are so many incredible craft-brewed IPAs and pale ales these days that it seems they are everywhere you turn. In fact, sometimes, it feels like hops are just slapping you in the face every moment of the day. If you go out to a restaurant for dinner, you might as well just ask for the “IPA list” instead of the beer list. It’s all IPAs anyway.

That’s all well and good because IPAs are delicious and they are packed full of fresh, hoppy exciting flavors — and let’s be honest, they haven’t taken a break from driving the bus for the craft beer movement since it started, I don’t know, 15 years ago.

Sometimes, though, and I feel at least somewhat confident I don’t just speak for myself, enough is enough. Sometimes you want anything but an IPA. Give me a stout or a Pilsner or a sour or a Bud Light or even one of those Cranberry Lambics from the Sam Adams holiday mixed pack that’s probably still in your fridge from 2006.

I was rummaging through my parents’ fridge recently and spotted a Mike’s Hard Raspberry Lemonade that I absolutely know has been there for more than a decade, so don’t just discard the notion that there might be a Cranberry Lambic lurking somewhere in your home.

It can be so rejuvenating for your palate to walk away from the hops for a bit and just appreciate that there’s a lot more great beer out there than just IPAs and pale ales.

Depending on my mood, when it hits me that my mouth needs a hop break, I tend to turn to what I call basic styles: Pilsners, stouts and amber ales. I’m not typically turning away from IPAs to turn toward some crazy sour that’s brewed with elderberry, jalapenos and peanut butter.

When I say basic, I don’t mean beers that are in any way lesser. I just mean brews that are more what I think of as traditional beers. Here are three basic brews that speak to me and I think will speak to you when your taste buds want to step away from IPAs.

Love Me For A Long Time by Throwback Brewery (North Hampton)

This Bohemian Pilsner is the epitome of crisp and clean. It’s a beer. It’s light, refreshing and flavorful. Pilsners get a bad rap sometimes and, when it gets right down to it, I just don’t understand it. They’re easy to drink, they taste great and they pair with basically any food and any situation. If your vision of pilsners starts and ends with Coors and Budweiser, it’s well worth exploring the array of craft brewers pumping out Pilsners these days.

Nations ESB by Millyard Brewery (Nashua)

I love the ESB or extra special bitter style, though it’s almost funny to think of this style as bitter compared to the pronounced bitterness you find in today’s brews. I haven’t had this particular brew, though I will, but I typically equate the style with a rich amber pour and a nice malty mouthful in a very, very easy to drink package. At 4.1 percent ABV, this is a beer and a style that begs for another.

Working Man’s Porter by Henniker Brewing Co. (Henniker)

This is a hearty brew but don’t be fooled; this is exceptionally easy to drink at 5.2 percent ABV. This English-style dark ale lends big malt flavors and a little complexity. This is just a terrific all-around porter. This is a great beer to grab when you want something smoother and richer.

What’s in My Fridge

Oktoberfestbier by Spaten-Franziskaner-Bräu (München, Germany)
Actually brewed in Germany, this true Oktoberfest brew is about as authentic as it gets when it comes to the Marzen style. The classic brew features a rich amber pour, mild bitterness, a bready malt and a medium body. This is flavorful, easy to drink and makes you feel like you’re in Germany for Oktoberfest. Cheers!

Featured photo: Love Me For A Long Time Bohemian Pilsener by Throwback Brewery. Courtesy photo.

Pecan biscotti with a bourbon kick

It’s a week before Thanksgiving, and you may be up to your eyeballs with menu planning, grocery shopping and kitchen scheduling. Thus, you may wonder why on Earth you need a biscotti recipe this week. The answer is easy: They’re delicious and versatile.

If you have time to bake these before Thanksgiving they can serve many roles: a part of the dessert table, a breakfast offering for houseguests, a gift for the host. If you don’t have time to bake them now, save the recipe to use either as (1) a treat for yourself or (2) a homemade holiday gift that ships and stores well.

There are a couple notes for this recipe. First, it obviously contains alcohol. Some of the bourbon is used in the glaze, which means the alcohol doesn’t bake off. This might be considered an adults-only treat. Second, you want to use a bourbon that you would drink straight up or on the rocks. As it’s used in the biscotti and the glaze, its flavor will be prominent.

Michele Pesula Kuegler has been thinking about food her entire life. Since 2007, the New Hampshire native has been sharing these food thoughts and recipes at her blog, Think Tasty. Visit thinktasty.com to find more of her recipes.

Pecan biscotti with a bourbon kick
Makes 30

1/3 cup unsalted butter, softened
1 1/4 cups granulated sugar
2 eggs
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
4 Tablespoons bourbon, divided
2 1/4 cups all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon baking powder
1/4 teaspoon salt
3/4 cup chopped pecans
1½ cups powdered sugar
1½ Tablespoons bourbon
Skim milk

Preheat oven to 350 degrees.
Beat butter and sugar in the bowl of a stand mixer on speed 2.
Add eggs one at a time, beating until fully combined.
Add vanilla and 3 tablespoons bourbon, mixing for 1 minute.
In a separate bowl combine flour, baking powder and salt.
Add flour mixture to wet ingredients and blend.
Stir pecans into dough.
Divide dough in half.
Shape each half into a 10″ x 3″ rectangle, using floured hands.
Set loaves 2 inches apart on a parchment paper-lined baking sheet.
Bake for 30 minutes or until the dough is set.
Leaving the oven on, remove the biscotti loaves and cool for 15 minutes on the baking sheet.
Then, using a chef’s knife, cut the loaves into diagonal slices, 1/2 inch thick.
Place the slices on the baking sheet with the cut sides down; brush with 1 tablespoon bourbon.
Bake for 8 to 9 minutes.
Turn slices over and bake for 8 to 9 minutes more.
Remove biscotti from the oven and allow to cool completely on a cooling rack.
Combine powdered sugar and 1 1/2 tablespoons bourbon; stir well.
Add milk 1 teaspoon at a time until desired consistency is reached.
Using a spoon, coat the top side of each biscotti with glaze.
Allow glaze to harden; then eat or store in a sealed container.

Photo: Pecan biscotti with a bourbon kick. Photo courtesy of Michele Pesula Kuegler.

In the kitchen with Phil Mastroianni

Phil Mastroianni is the co-owner and founder of Fabrizia Spirits (fabriziaspirits.com), a Salem-based producer of all-natural limoncello that he launched in 2008 with his younger brother, Nick. Fabrizia Spirits has become a leading purveyor of limoncello in the United States and has since expanded its product line to include a variety of ready-to-drink cocktails, like its Italian margarita and Italian-style lemonade; multiple flavors of vodka sodas, like Sicilian lemon, blood orange and raspberry; and liqueurs, the newest of which is the Crema di Pistacchio. In November 2020 the Mastroiannis launched the Fabrizia Lemon Baking Co. (fabrizialemonbakingcompany.com, and on Facebook and Instagram @fabrizialemonbakingco), which now offers its own line of limoncello-infused baked goods including cookies, whoopie pies, biscotti, blondies, loaves and white chocolate-dipped truffles. Each item is baked fresh on site at Fabrizia’s Salem headquarters. Orders can be placed online and can be shipped anywhere in the country within three business days.

What is your must-have kitchen item?

The mixer at our bakery is hands down the No. 1 important tool, besides the oven, obviously.

What would you have for your last meal?

Spaghetti and meatballs with a fresh tomato sauce, made by my mother.

What is your favorite local restaurant?

The Copper Door. I love their service, and the quality of their food is amazing. Everything that they make is delicious. … I used to go to the one in Bedford a lot, but the Salem one that opened is right down the street from our facility, so it’s very convenient.

What celebrity would you like to see trying one of your baked products?

Giada De Laurentiis. If I had a wishlist of people, she would be on it. … I would send her our cookies and our limoncello loaf and I would love to get her thoughts on them.

What is your favorite baked product that you offer?

A warm limoncello cookie coming right out of the oven is still hands down my favorite item. … It’s also my kryptonite. … I had to cut myself off of them. I would find myself eating a cookie at 11 o’clock in the morning and then I wouldn’t eat lunch and I’d be hungry by the afternoon.

What is the biggest food trend in New Hampshire right now?

If I could foray a bit into the spirits world, I would definitely say the proliferation of the spritz. … I think you’re starting to see all kinds of restaurants start to offer them. Aperol kind of started it, but it’s bloomed into others as well.

What is your favorite thing to cook at home?

I like to make pizzas as often as my wife will let me, because it always makes a mess. I have a nearly three-year-old mother dough I’ve kept alive that I love to do homemade pizzas with.

Fabrizia limoncello scallops
From the kitchen of Phil Mastroianni of Fabrizia Spirits in Salem

1 Tablespoon olive oil
1 clove garlic, minced
1 teaspoon lemon zest
1 teaspoon salt
1 pound scallops
½ cup Fabrizia limoncello
2 teaspoons unsalted butter
1 Tablespoon heavy cream

In a pan over medium-high heat, add the oil, garlic, lemon zest and salt and cook for less than a minute, stirring throughout. Add the scallops, cooking for about three to four minutes and flipping about halfway through. Remove the scallops from the pan and set aside. Carefully wipe out the pan and return to the stovetop. Add the limoncello and cook over medium-high heat until it is reduced by half. Remove from heat and whisk in the butter and cream. Pour over the previously cooked scallops.

Featured photo: Phil Mastroianni. Courtesy photo.

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