For whatever you’re cooking

G-Mom’s BBQ Sauce goes beyond the grill

By John Fladd

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Nashua sauce-maker Allison Marques’ dream recipe comes from a childhood memory she wishes she had.

“G-Mom was my grandmother,” Marques said. “G-Mom had five kids and she was the best person I ever knew, really. “She actually passed away when I was rather young. I didn’t … grow up into my late teens and twenties with her alive, but I named the sauce after her. I don’t actually have a recollection of her making the sauce with me. I really wish I had that memory.”

It was many years after her grandmother’s death that Marques connected the barbecue sauce she loved with G-Mom.

“She made lots of other delicious things,” Marques said, “but I found out that the sauce was her recipe from my uncle, because he made the sauce for a long time … and then I found out that it was actually my grandmother’s recipe. And so my uncle Ken helped me understand how to make it. Because I’m not a chef; I’m not super creative in the kitchen. But I know a good thing when I taste it.”

The result was G-Mom’s BBQ Sauce. Once Marques and her uncle worked out the specific recipe — up till then “nothing was ever measured; it was a little of this, a little of that,” she said — she and her husband Casey worked up three versions of the sauce to bring to market.

“This product is too good to not share with other people,” she said.

“All the general ingredients stay the same for the base mild recipe,” Marques said. “In my opinion, if I’m going to bring something to market, I need my customers to know that they’re going to get the same product, the same delicious product, every single time. Then, as you bring it into a medium flavor or a hot flavor, you add more peppers or sauces and things like that in order to make it hotter. We’re planning to move into an even spicier flavor, which I know some of my booth visitors are excited about at the shows we present at. But as we go to move into the hotter realms, I want to obviously be truthful and honor my grandmother’s recipe. I can always make it hotter, but we can’t always make something that’s already hot hotter and taste better.”

“My grandmother’s recipe, the G-Mom’s barbecue sauce flavoring, is unlike any other sauce that I’ve ever tasted,” Marques said. “It’s got a nice depth of flavor. It’s definitely got a sweetness to it. You definitely taste the tomato base. It’s not super vinegary, but it does have depth; I know in using Worcestershire sauce, it adds a depth to my sauce.”

Marques said that while it’s a good barbecue sauce, that label can be a little misleading.

“The sauce itself doesn’t distinctly isolate itself to barbecue,” she said. “It brings out the flavor of whatever you’re cooking and that’s really what’s so special about this sauce. When I think of ‘barbecue’, I think ‘OK, I can only have this if I make pulled pork or if I’m smoking something on my smoker.’ This sauce can really go on anything, and … I’ve had vegetarians buy the sauce, and they’re saying, ‘I want to put this on rice and vegetables. I want to put this on tofu.’”

“One of the biggest things for me,” Marques said, “is seeing children try the sauce who don’t eat anything, who are super-picky. And their moms are like, ‘I can’t believe she’s eating this right now. I can’t believe she is enjoying this.’ I have story after story after story of people trying this. Seeing the joy on their faces has been really fun.”we call it. We cook them to order so they get them hot off the press with everything like the frosting is like put right on top melted.”

G-Mom’s BBQ Sauce

G-Mom’s BBQ Sauce comes in three varieties — Mild, Medium and Hot — and is available through gmomsbbq.com.

Featured photo: Courtesy photo.

Doughnut batter in a waffle iron

New Dessert House satisfies a sweet tooth

By John Fladd

[email protected]

Have you ever eaten a doughnut and thought to yourself, “This is excellent. I really, really like doughnuts, but I think it would be better if it were crispier, somehow.”?

Tanya Grenier has you covered.

She and her husband are the brains behind Tanya’s Waffle-Donuts. The Boscawen businesswoman described her product this way: “They look like a waffle,” she said. “They taste like a doughnut, but they’re not deep fried. They’re all made from homemade recipes, made from scratch.”

The idea for the waffle-doughnut came from a family trip, Grenier recalled.

“We were at an Airbnb with our daughter and our son-in-law,” she said. Her daughter asked her dad if he could make doughnuts for breakfast. “So they had all the ingredients to make them, but we didn’t check and they ended up not having oil. So we were like, ‘Oh, we can’t deep fry them.’ We ended up making pancakes with the batter. They looked like a pancake in a pan, but they tasted like a doughnut. They were amazing, but then my husband said, ‘You know what would be really cool, though? If it was the shape of a waffle it would be a little easier to pick up and like look really cool with a waffle shape.’”

A waffle donut covered in frosting and sprinkles.
Courtesy photo.

The Greniers spent three years developing a recipe that would work.

“Basically,” Tanya said, “you can’t use a waffle recipe or a doughnut recipe. What you need to do is you’ve got to kind of combine them to get them to rise because most doughnut recipes are made to be deep-fried, and these are not.” Eventually, she said, the recipe came together. “The best part of these is they have less sugar than a regular doughnut, but they still taste just like a doughnut, but they’re not greasy. They’re light and fluffy. They’re not fried in oil at all. They’re all made in a waffle iron.”

Once the base recipe was worked out, the Greniers were able to develop a large number of variations on the doughnuts themselves, and an equally large number of frosting types, which have lent themselves to many combinations.

“We make a cake waffle doughnut, which is our original waffle doughnut,” Tanya said. “It has a little bit of cinnamon, a little bit of nutmeg. We make a chocolate waffle doughnut, which is like a milk chocolate, almost — not a dark chocolate but like a milk chocolate doughnut. We make maple doughnuts and apple doughnuts. We’ve done banana doughnuts. We do a cornbread waffle doughnut. We do a potato waffle doughnut. We do carrot cake ones.”

The Greniers package some waffle-doughnuts for individual sale, but they are happiest when they serve them hot and crispy from their food truck.

“The food truck is called the Waffle Donut Wagon,” Grenier said, “and then when we sell them pre-packaged it’s called Tanya’s Homemade Waffle Donut. We usually only sell [the individually wrapped ones] at special indoor craft events. We’ve done horse shows, we’ve done weddings, birthdays, bridal showers, pretty much anything you can think of. We do that with the truck just because we can offer food items plus they’re hot off the press as we call it. We cook them to order so they get them hot off the press with everything like the frosting is like put right on top melted.”

Tanya’s Waffle Donuts and the Waffle Donut Wagon

Tanya’s Waffle Donuts and the Waffle Donut Wagon can be found at events throughout New Hampshire and can cater any event. Call 785-6283 for more information, or search for “Waffle Donut Wagon” on Facebook or @waffledonutwagon on Instagram.

Featured photo: Courtesy photo.

The Weekly Dish 25/04/17

News from the local food scene

By John Fladd

[email protected]

New ownership: The Sal Terrae line of spices has been purchased by Smokin’ Tin Roof Hot Sauce (899-7369, smokintinroof.com), according to Smokin’ Tin Roof owner Phil Pelletier. According to a post on Facebook, “We are very excited to announce and welcome a new line as a part of the Smokin’ Tin Roof family, Sal Terrae Spice Co!! You will now be able to purchase these great products at events, future store locations, and online.”

Taco Tour participating restaurants: With just two weeks left until the Taco Tour (tacotourmanchester.com), Manchester’s biggest food day of the year, the Greater Manchester Chamber released the names of more than 90 participating restaurants and organizations in an April 9 press release. The list includes businesses as different from each other as 815 Cocktails & Provisions, New Hampshire Fisher Cats, and Thai Food Connection. To view the full list of participants (as of April 8), visit manchester-chamber.org/taco-tour-manchester-2025-list-of-participating-restaurants.

Chili cook-off: Rockingham Brewing Co. (1 Corporate Park Drive, Unit 1, Derry, 216-2324, rockinghambrewing.com) will host its Fourth Annual Chili Cook-Off on Saturday, April 19. On its Facebook page the brewery posted, “This is a non-ticketed event. We’re open 1 to 8 p.m. and as usual, chili & seating are both first come, first served. … BUT our worthy competitors are making TWICE as much chili this year, so there should be plenty for all. Please be patient as we work to get you all served ASAP.” The names of this year’s chilis are “Piggy Back,” “Silence of the Hams,” “Night Owl,” “Jort Munder” and “Ten.”

Cooking with kids: According to The Culinary Playground’s (16 Manning St., Derry, 339-1664, culinary-playground.com) website, there are openings in two cooking classes for children this week. On Saturday, April 19, from 10 a.m. to noon, children ages 6 to 10 can learn to make a carrot cake trifle. There is a second class from 1 to 3 p.m. for kids 10 and up. On Wednesday, April 23, preschoolers can make carrot apple muffins in sessions at 11:30 a.m. and 1 p.m.

Tangelo Madness

The Sample Lady at the grocery store and I have an understanding. As long as I don’t block traffic and stand around telling her dad jokes, she will look the other way as I take more than my fair share of samples:

“So, the police have released some details about that guy who fell to his death off the nightclub roof.”

“Oh, yeah?”

“Apparently, not a bouncer.”

“Shut up and have some more pretzels.”

“Don’t mind if I do.”

Last week, the Sample Lady and I bonded over wedges of tangelo, which sounds like it could be the name of your aunt’s latest boyfriend with a pencil-thin mustache and too much gold jewelry but is actually a citrus hybrid of a tangerine and a grapefruit. It turns out that tangelos are insanely delicious — sweet and perfumy, but balanced with enough acidity to make them taste super-juicy.

One thing led to another and I ended up with a bag of them on my kitchen counter. I really, really thought about adapting a lemon cake recipe into a tangelo one, but curiosity got the better of me and I decided to see what fresh tangelo juice tasted like.

Even better.

For reasons known only to fruit geneticists and perhaps Pomona, the Roman goddess of oranges, tangelos, instead of taking after their large, grapefruity parent, are actually a bit smaller than standard run-of-the-mill tangerines and fit nicely into a lemon juicer. Place a fine-mesh strainer over a leftover plastic takeout container and squeeze five or six tangelos through it. The plastic container is flexible enough to allow you to squeeze the sides and pour juice neatly into a cocktail jigger.

Which leads us nicely to the topic of tangelo cocktails.

Two Tangelo Cocktails

#1 – A Beer-mosa

4 ounces fresh squeezed tangelo juice

12-ounce bottle of not-too-hoppy pale beer – a Mexican lager is great for this

This is very complicated, so pay close attention:

Pour the tangelo juice into a pint glass, and top it with beer.

Even though a tangelo looks like a pony in the tangerine stable and tastes really sweet and juicy on its own, there is something about a mild beer that calls to its grapefruit forebears and forges a bond. The slight bitterness of the beer clasps hands with the background bitterness of the tangelo juice and won’t let go. The beer tastes juicy, and the juice tastes even more refreshing, if that is possible.

While not as daintily sophisticated as a traditional mimosa, this might be my new brunch go-to.

#2 – Pencil-Thin Mustache

2 ounces vodka

½ ounce Aperol — a ruby-colored, slightly bitter liqueur made from rhubarb and miracles

½ ounce orange liqueur — in this particular case, dry orange curacao

3 ounces fresh squeezed tangelo juice

Combine all ingredients with ice in a cocktail shaker. Shake thoroughly.

Strain over fresh ice in a rocks glass. If you are prone to garnishes, a slice or twist of tangelo would not go amiss here.

It is hard to imagine any cocktail more orange than this one. It looks orange. It tastes orange. Not like oranges, mind you — tangelos and sunshine are the primary flavor profiles here. The Aperol and curacao add a bit of complexity, and the vodka hides in the background, but the fresh tangelo juice is the star here. Two or three of these could make porch-sitting an event.

I’m not entirely sure if there is an actual tangelo season, but it seems shortsighted not to drink a large number of each of these cocktails while the opportunity presents itself.

Featured Photo: Tangelo Madness. Photo by John Fladd.

In the kitchen with Jackie O’Dowd

Owner and baker of The Sweet Spot, 353 Riverdale Road, Weare, 529-6667, thesweetspotnh.com

“My grandfather was a Japanese chef in New York City. Both my parents were wonderful cooks…. I’ve always baked my whole life, since I was a little girl,” O’Dowd said. “I grew up in Long Island and I baked with my mother. I tried an office job. I didn’t like it, and then I tried a baking job and I loved it. … I worked in a couple of bakeries and coffee shops and then finally the fancy plating stuff with this pastry chef. Then, we bought this place. The previous owner [Just Like Mom’s] really wanted it to stay a bakery.

What is your ‘must-have’ in the kitchen?

Butter. I make everything from scratch. And I use real cream in all my chantillys, … My meringue is from egg whites, but I’ve separated the eggs. … But I guess butter would be the first thing.

What would you have for your last meal?

I would have linguine with white clam sauce. My father was a really good cook, a really amazing cook. And he had five daughters, and for our birthdays he would make us whatever we wanted. And every year I wanted his linguine with white clam sauce and he’d always be like ‘Jackie, that’s so easy! Like the easiest thing to make, come on!’ But I told him, ‘That’s my favorite.’

What is your favorite local place to eat?

That’s a tough question. I like Campo Enoteca [in Manchester], though. I just like the vibe in there. I like homemade pasta.

Who is a celebrity you would like to see eating something you’ve baked?

I love Joanne Chang [celebrity baker and owner of Flour and Myers+Chang in Boston]. I love her. Her recipes are great. … I also like Paul Hollywood [from The Great British Baking Show] … [H]e’s actually legit, he grew up baking bread with his father. So those are my two top bakers who are alive.

What’s your favorite thing on your menu?

Everyone here knows it: pecan sticky buns, which actually use Joanne Chang’s brioche recipe. I’ve tweaked it a little bit here, but really like the pecan sticky buns. My staff all know on the weekend when things are left over you save sticky buns for Jackie.

What’s the biggest food or baking trend that you see in New Hampshire?

Gluten-free, absolutely. … [Gluten-free baking] has advanced so much with new flour mixtures that I can bake almost anything gluten-free.

What’s your favorite thing to cook at home?

It’s not one thing. I get the Milk Street magazine and they have a lot of interesting recipes from all over the world. So I love to pick a recipe like that. For Christmas we always pick a different country and we’ll just dive into that country, something different and exotic, usually from overseas. Last week I made this Korean fried chicken from a Milk Street [recipe], and it was so good. It was so good, so satisfying. So if I’m home making something, I try and do something fun and interesting like that.

The Sweet Spot Maple Honey Granola

12 cups oats
4½ cups total raw nuts and/or seeds (chopped pecans and whole pepitas, for instance)
1½ handfuls whole almonds
3 teaspoons sea salt
1½ teaspoons cinnamon
1½ cups organic coconut oil, melted
¾ cup maple syrup
¾ cup honey
3 teaspoons vanilla
2 cups total dried fruit (dark and golden raisins, dried cranberries, etc.)

Mix oats, nuts, salt and cinnamon.
Mix wet ingredients separately, stir well. Add to oat mixture and stir by hand until all items are coated.
Add to parchment-lined, lightly sprayed full sheet pans (two pans). Spread evenly. Bake in 275°F oven. Stir every 20 minutes until nicely browned, approximately 1½ hours. Allow to cool.
Place in large bowl when cooled. Add dried fruit and mix well. Leave some clumps.
Store in airtight container.

Featured Image: Kristen Chiosi. Courtesy photo.

Thai food like Grandma used to make

New Dessert House satisfies a sweet tooth

By John Fladd

[email protected]

Some of Vasita Saktanaset’s favorite memories of growing up in Bangkok center around her grandmother’s cooking.

“She’s 82 years old right now and she’s still working,” Saktanaset said, “and her hobby is cooking. She actually used to like to open a small street restaurant. It was like a pop-up shop in front of the house. In Thailand you don’t have to have a health permit or anything like that. You can open up a restaurant and you can just say, oh today I want to sell something. You just unfold a table and you can sell it right away. She used to do that on and off for her hobbies. She loves cooking. So I grew up with a grandma who liked to feed me with her recipes.”

Saktanaset’s new restaurant, After Thai Dessert House in Concord, grew out of her love of Thai desserts. After she moved to New Hampshire, she found herself missing the sweets she grew up eating in Bangkok. There are many good Thai restaurants in the area, she said, but she found herself craving Thai desserts.

“I have a sweet tooth,” she said, “so I love dessert. I love bingsu [a treat made with shaved ice, condensed milk, and many, many other ingredients] and everything. And there’s no dessert shop around here — I mean Asian dessert shop. You have to drive like an hour to Boston to just grab a couple of bites of [Thai] ice cream or anything. It just made me miss my home country a little bit.”

Saktanaset’s husband and his family own the Siam Orchid Thai Bistro in Concord, and she said he encouraged her to open her own place.

“I saw the potential of this space downstairs from the Siam, and we already rent the whole building. [My husband said,] ‘Why don’t you use it for something that will earn money?’” At first, the idea was to open a dessert space for the restaurant upstairs, Sktanaset said, but soon the space took on a personality of its own, one that reflected hers.

“I just put all my passion in here — anything that I like. Sweets, sour foods, some cute stuff, snacks, everything here is something that I like,” she said.

Saktanaset noticed that many American desserts lacked complexity.

“The cake and foods you buy in bakeries here are a little too sweet for me,” she said. “Asian desserts are less sweet, softer in texture, and everything is light and fluffy.”

For instance, After Thai’s coconut cake is a moist cake that relies on most of its sweetness from the natural sugars in the coconut and is frosted with unsweetened whipped cream, which adds richness and even more moisture to the cake without covering up the flavor of the cream itself.

Strawberry Roti is a fusion of influences from Thailand, India and the United States.

“The roti [a flaky fried flatbread] is actually Indian,” Saktanaset said. “And you have condensed milk and strawberry sauce and condensed milk and just the whipped cream. This is street food in Thailand. It’s just like you can find anywhere there. They roll it up as a stick, but I think it’s a little hard to eat, so we adapted it a little and chopped the roti in pieces.”

After Thai serves a couple dozen desserts at any given time, including bingsu [the shaved ice], custards made with rice or taro, and bubble tea, with large tapioca pearls.

“I want to have more,” Saktanaset said, “but we want to find out what sells. Right now I only pick the ones that I like. Because if I want to have it, I can have it right away. That’s the key point of this dessert shop.”

After Thai Dessert House

Where: 4 Kennedy Lane, Concord, 229-8291
When: Thursdays 11:30 a.m. to 3 p.m. and 4 to 9 p.m.; Fridays and Saturdays until 9:30 p.m., and Sundays until 9 p.m.

Desserts from After Thai can also be ordered through Siam Orchid Thai Bistro (12 N. Main St., Concord, 228-1529, siamorchid.net).

Featured photo: Courtesy photo.

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