Fusion food and thoughtful cocktails

Spice Restaurant is an adventure

Carolyn Trepanier has put more thought into cocktails than most people have into their retirement plans.

“Spice is the spice of life,” she said. “But spice doesn’t mean spicy,” she clarified. “Spice means flavorful; it doesn’t mean hot, necessarily. I pride myself in creating craft cocktails. I make drinks that are drinkable but also give you that little relaxation that you want. We are like chemists.”

Trepanier is the bartender at The Spice Restaurant & Bar, one of Nashua’s newest restaurants. According to owner Hanh Nguyen, one of the primary goals of the restaurant is to give customers an adventure.

“We love to play with the food a little bit,” she said, “but also keep the culture, the flavors. Our food is a combination of Asian fusion, so we serve Thai, Vietnamese and Japanese. We include a hot pot room too, with more Chinese and Vietnamese food.”

This sense of adventure touches on several different senses, Nguyen said. “That’s why we have a spice for every single plate,” she said. “For example, Vietnamese. Vietnamese is really popular with pho, noodle soup. If the broth looks light, it looks very simple, but actually we cook bones for 24 hours with at least seven different spices like star [anise], cloves and herbs until you can smell the broth when you eat it.”

And, of course, that same sense of adventure extends to the bar.

“I’ve been given the go-ahead and the engine to just make whatever works,” Bar Manager Trepanier said. “I’ve incorporated a lot of syrups here. For example, he” — she pointed to a customer at the end of the bar drinking a cocktail in a rocks glass — “just got a maple old-fashioned, so that’s a maple simple syrup. We do everything; if I can get my hands on anise or coriander out of the kitchen, I’ll amplify it a little bit. So, we have lemon simple syrup, maple, brown sugar, jalapeno brine, olive brine…. I do a lot of hot and dirty [martinis]. I stuff my own blue cheese olives. I made a spiced mango margarita last week. [The customers] loved it. I can do a salty tahini rim. I can do a sugar rim, or no rim.”

The idea, Ngyuen said, is to present guests with a combination of familiar dishes to make them comfortable, with just enough new elements to add to make every meal an experience. She pointed to the short ribs as another case in point. That is a cut of beef that can be very tough, “but we cook it until it rips off the bone, and you can bite into it easily.” From that base the dish takes a surprising, pan-Asian turn. “We try to get people excited, with basil and bean sprouts, and lime. And also in the broth we have greens, like scallions, onions and cilantro. [Then] the customer can see this new thing come out with a short rib.”

Nguyen said that so far it seems like customers have enjoyed Spice’s take on food and drink. “We’ve had good crowds for the first couple of weeks,” she said, “and then everybody has loved the food. They keep returning to try different items on the menu.” At this point the menu hasn’t been set in stone.

“We haven’t gone with our final menu just yet,” she said. “We want to see what the customers here want, and make [the menu] a little smaller, easier for people to come and enjoy.”

At the bar, Trepanier makes a point of making drinks that are a little bit exotic but not complicated.

“Something I’ve come up with on my own,” she said, “is called a Spicy Bloody-Tini. A lot of Bloody Marys come with way too much. I make my own mix. I muddle jalapenos with the seeds, and cucumber, which is European. That gets muddled in, we do the Tabasco, all that, but the garnish on that is a small angled cut of celery, instead of this big stick in your drink. The garnish goes: three olives, celery, cucumber, lemon and lime. I put a jalapeno ring dead in the center, and then I crack black pepper over it. That’s it. [Our customers] are already buying a meal; they don’t need a meal as a garnish on their drink.”

The Spice Restaurant & Bar
300 Main St., Nashua. 417-7972, thespicenashua.com
Open for lunch and dinner seven days a week: Sunday through Thursday, 11 a.m. to 9:30 p.m., Saturday and Sunday, 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.

Featured photo: Carolyn Trepanier, bar manager. Photo by John Fladd.

The Weekly Dish 25/03/20

News from the local food scene

Shaw’s to close: As reported by the Boston Globe in a March 12 online story, the Shaw’s supermarket chain has announced that it plans to close its Fort Eddy Road store “as the chain seeks to cut some of its underperforming locations.” Another Concord Shaw’s location, on D’Amante Drive, will remain open, the company said.

New chicken fingers: After months of anticipation Raising Cane’s Chicken Fingers (782 S. Willow St., Manchester, 263-3787, raisingcanes.com) has opened. As reported by Manchester InkLink, the chicken finger chain’s first location in New Hampshire opened Tuesday, March 11, with a line of more than 100 customers waiting to place an order. ”

Maple syrup is delicious in any language: The Franco-American Centre [Le Centre franco-américain] (100 Saint Anselm Drive, Manchester, 204-7680, facnh.com) will hold its annual Soirée Cabane à sucre, a traditional sugaring-off party, on Saturday, March 22, from 6 to 10 p.m. at The Oscar Barn Wedding Venue (191 W. River Road, Hooksett). The Centre describes this event on its website as “an evening of homestyle family fun [with] food, fun and traditional music.” Tickets are $55 for members, $65 for nonmembers, and $25 for children, through the Centre’s website.

Tequila y comida: The Alamo Texas BBQ & Tequila Bar (99 Route 13, Brookline, 721-5500, alamobarbecue.com) will host a Casamigos Dinner Wednesday, March 26, at 6 p.m. All four courses of this specially curated meal will be paired with a different Casamigos tequila. Call to reserve your place.

Planning ahead for wine: It’s time to buy tickets for WineNot Boutique’s (25 Main St., Nashua, 204-5569, winenotboutique.com) Flavors of Spring: Five-Course Wine Dinner to be held Friday, April 11, from 6 to 9 p.m. at Courtyard Nashua (2200 Southwood Drive, Nashua, 880-9100). Join guest speaker Tom Simpson, founder of Pearl Lake Distributors, for an evening of great wines, stories and a six-course wine-paired dinner. Tickets are $135 each through eventbrite.com and are expected to sell out quickly.

The Daydream of Milky Joe

At the moment, I am working on a project that involves thinking deeply about a couple of cows celebrating a Girls’ Night Out. Never mind why. That just seems to be where my life is right now — thinking about cow girlfriends at a bar, laughing, drinking and flirting with a rugged beefcake of a stranger, only to find out to their chagrin that he is an ox. (Look it up.)

The obvious question as far as I’m concerned is this: What would they drink?

Initially the answer seems obvious: white Russians, or mudslides, or something with cream in it. But I can imagine the conversations the cows would have:

“Really? Drinking our own body fluids? Doesn’t that seem a little — wrong?”

Then there are obvious plays on words — moo-tinis, moo-garitas or moo-jitos, but I’m not entirely sure how one would go about making them.

Then, out of nowhere, as often happens when one opens oneself up to the Universe, I discovered a drink called The Nightmare of Milky Joe. I don’t know where the name comes from — there’s no dairy in it — but it sounded promising. After some tinkering, a surprisingly delicious not-quite-tiki drink came into focus.

Let’s call it —

The Daydream of Milky Joe

1 flavorful jalapeño pepper – it would be nice if it had some heat, but it is more important that it has good flavor

1 ounce golden rum

1 ounce dark rum

1 ounce sweet coconut cream – Coco Lopez is a classic brand, but there are other good ones, so use whichever one brings joy to your life

½ ounce crème de banana

½ ounce fresh squeezed lime juice

4 ounce grapefruit soda – I like Pink Ting, but Jarritos or Fresca would work well too

Roughly chop the jalapeño, and muddle it in the bottom of a cocktail shaker. (This means crush it with a cocktail muddler, a wooden spoon, or a small soda bottle.)

Add the dark and gold rums, then dry shake the mixture — shake it without ice. Flavorful chemicals in a chili pepper, including capsaicin, the one that makes it taste hot, are soluble in alcohol, but not in water, so shaking the crushed jalapeño with alcohol before adding any watery ingredients will help extract heat and flavor into the cocktail.

Add ice, the coconut cream, crème de banana, and lime juice, then shake again, until you hear the ice start to break up.

Strain the mixture over crushed ice in the fanciest glass you own, then top it with grapefruit soda and stir.

This drink is something truly rare in this weary world: a happy surprise. Rum and coconut obviously go well together, but the surprise comes in how much the jalapeño and lime add to this enterprise. We’ve established on many occasions that lime is everybody’s friend. It is super friendly with rum, and delightful with coconut, but if you think about it for a moment, it is also really, really good with chilis; think of a fresh salsa. The lime is a bridge from Spice City to Smooth Town, and the grapefruit soda is the water under it.

Featured Photo: The Daydream of Milky Joe. Photo by John Fladd.

Corned beef — a user’s guide

It’s a New England thing

By John Fladd

[email protected]

According to James Malik, the first thing you need to know about corned beef is that it’s not particularly Irish.

“[Corning beef] was a traditional means of preservation,” he said. “We associate it with St. Patrick’s Day here. It is an Irish-American thing, an Irish New England thing. But corned beef is not what’s traditionally eaten on St. Patrick’s Day in Ireland. This is very much Irish-American and very, very popular here in New England. It’s a boiled dinner, usually served with cabbage, carrots, rutabaga and onion.”

Malik, who describes himself as “an old-school butcher,” has been working with premium meat for more than 21 years. He is one of the managers and butchers at Wicked Good Butchah in Bedford. And he takes his corned beef very seriously.

“So corned beef, typically,” he said, “when we’re talking about corned beef for a boiled dinner, it is a brisket, and it is corned or brined in a salt solution. Now there’s two styles. There’s the famous red style that everybody gets in the grocery store. And then there’s the gray style, which is a very traditional New England style — the real corned beef. The difference is they’re both brined in a salt water solution, but the gray has just salt and water, where the red uses sodium nitrate or something called Instacure No. 1, which contains sodium nitrate. It keeps the red color on the external layer of the meat as well as the interior. But the gray is the traditional New England style. That’s what we do here in-house.”

One reason why corned beef is associated with Irish and Jewish immigrants is that it usually is made with brisket, a very tough and therefore traditionally inexpensive cut of beef. How tender or tough a cut of meat is is largely determined by how much work those muscles had to do during an animal’s lifetime. More exercise results in more connective tissue, which has to be broken down with long, slow cooking.

“The brisket is from the chest,” said Rick Lemay from Lemay & Sons in Goffstown, a beef processing house and butcher shop. “It’s right front-and-center. It’s what we call the front plate, and right behind that ends up being your short ribs.” He said that corned short ribs are delicious. “You don’t hear about it very often,” he said, “but it’s a pretty neat item. I’ve actually tried it with a chuck roast too.The corning process really is just a curing method.”

Because a brisket has so much connective tissue holding it together, the corning process involves soaking it in brine for anywhere from 10 to 21 days.

“We take the full 21 days,” James Malik said. “After that 21 days, we then take out the briskets from that brining solution and then we soak them for 24 hours in clean cold water to draw out any excess salt. And you’re still left with a wonderfully brined piece of meat that has that nice traditional corned beef flavor. The biggest step in all this is when you’re brining. To know that your salt solution is the correct amount of salt, you put a potato in your bucket, and when the potato floats, you have the correct amount of salt to begin brining your corned beef.”

Jay Beland is in charge of brining the corned beef at Lemay and Sons. He adds spices to the salt in his brining solution. “For a 10- to 15-pound brisket,” he said, “I’ll use two gallons of water, two tablespoons of pink curing salt, and a cup of whole black peppercorns.” He adds an additonal cup of cracked — but not powdered — peppercorns, two cups of coriander seeds — one whole and one cracked, and the same with yellow mustard seeds, and a cup of pickling spice. “That’s my water,” he said. “That is my brine.

Beland brines his brisket for about 10 days, then smokes it at 225 degrees, until it reaches an internal temperature of 180 degrees. James Malik, on the other hand, is a great believer in braising his corned beef.

“When people hear ‘boiled dinner’,” Malik said, “their first thought is to go ahead and put it in a pot of water and boil the ever-loving Jesus out of it. I would tell you that the best way to do this is to do more of like a braise in the oven. Believe it or not, you can dry it out by over-boiling it for too long. I put it in my big lobster pot and I time it out. You’ll find you get a much better piece of meat that way, much more enjoyable.”

Featured photo: Courtesy photo.

Sap season

New Hampshire celebrates the sweet stuff at Maple Weekend

By John Fladd

[email protected]

Last year was a rough one for maple syrup makers. For many sugar houses, production was down by 90 percent compared to typical years. A dry summer, followed by a harsh freeze in November, and then an early, warm spring combined to stress maple trees and seriously limit the amount of sap syrup makers could harvest.

This year is much better.

“We have more of a traditional year this year,” said Andrew Chisholm, President of the New Hampshire Maple Producers Association (nhmapleproducers.com). “We’ve had a really cold winter, which is one of the big ingredients for having a good maple season. We have a fairly good snowpack out in the woods, which is another good ingredient. The forecast here for the foreseeable future is these perfect warm days and freezing nights. It looks like we are going to be producing maple syrup in New Hampshire through the month of March. I think some of our North Country maple sugarhouses will get into an April sugar season this year.”

Syrup makers depend on being able to harvest a large amount of maple sap to boil down and concentrate its natural sugars into syrup. They depend on warm days and cold nights to keep the sap running from the trees’ roots to their branches and back again, to be able to harvest the most sap. Chisholm said having snow on the ground in the woods is a very good sign.

“One of the most damaging things that we can have from a maple industry point of view is not having snowpack in the woods. Having early snow in the woods will insulate the roots so you don’t get the root system into a hard freeze. And then when we do get the hard freeze, the snowpack will keep us insulated. But then also, this time of year, when we start to get the warm-ups, the snow pack will cool the woods down a bit at night so we don’t get a thermal runaway, if you will.”

Chisholm said that while it’s tricky to depend on nature to stick to a schedule on the calendar, this year’s sugaring season has come at exactly the right time for Maple Weekend.

“Maple Weekend is the Super Bowl of the New Hampshire maple industry,” he said. “It’s when our maple producers throughout the state of New Hampshire open their doors and welcome neighbors, friends, family and customers in to experience a New Hampshire maple tradition that dates back generations on some of these farms.”

Sap buckets. Photo courtesy of Maple Producers Association.
Sap buckets. Photo courtesy of Maple Producers Association.

Even among maple syrups, New Hampshire maple syrup is something special, Chisholm said. “Our maple is potentially some of the best maple in the world,” he said. “USDA statistics put New Hampshire as some of the highest-priced maple in the world, so maybe there’s a correlation there. Price demand would suggest that maybe we are some of the best. Also, I always try to point out the fact that in New Hampshire, if you go to a sugar house in New Hampshire, the trees where your maple syrup came from are not far away. I always say, ‘Show me a bottle of New Hampshire maple and I can show you where the trees are that produce that maple.’ That is not something you will find in Canada or really some other places. It’s unique to New Hampshire.”

Maple Weekend Events

On Saturday, March 15, and Sunday, March 16, maple producers across the state will open their doors to visitors. Here are some of the sugar houses participating according to the New Hampshire Maple Producers Association at nhmapleproducers.com, where you can find more locations across the state.

  • 2 Sappy Guys (324 Joppa Hill Road, Bedford, 860-7992) will be open 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. both days with tours of the maple sugar bush and sugar shack, according to their Facebook page.
  • Ackerman Brothers (137 Amherst Road, Merrimack, 714-9784) will be open 4 to 8 p.m. on Saturday and Sunday.
  • Babel’s Sugar Shack (323 Hurricane Hill Road, Mason, 878-3929) will be open for visitors on Saturday, March 15, from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. and Sunday, March 16, from 10 a.m. to 3 p.m.
  • Ben’s Sugar Shack (8 Webster Highway, Temple, 924-3111, bensmaplesyrup.com) Ben’s is open every weekend in March, Saturdays and Sundays, 10 a.m. to 4 p.m., with tours and samples, according to a Facebook post. The Temple location also has a deli/cafe selling breakfast and lunch.
  • Blue Roof Sap Camp (6 Carter Hill Road, Canterbury, 234-5067, sugarbonesfarm603.com) will be open during Maple Weekend.
  • Blueberry Hill Sugarworks (31 Blueberry Hill Road, Raymond, 300-6837, wickedsappy.com) will be open both days, 9 a.m. to 4 p.m.
  • Briar Bush (160 Briar Bush Road, Canterbury, 809-6393, briarbushfarm.com) will be open Saturday and Sunday from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. according to its website. All available grades of syrup will be available for purchase as well as goat’s milk products. There will also be a small goat-petting area.
  • Brookview Sugar House (154 Gage Road, Wilton, 731-5214) will be open to the public during Maple Weekend.
  • Charmingfare Farm (Route 27, Candia; visitthefarm.com) will hold its “Maple Express” event this weekend and next (March 22-23) with horse-drawn/ tractor rides, sugar shack tour and more. See website for admission cost and hours.
  • Clarkridge Farm (31 Martin Farm Road, Goffstown, 620-0406, clarkridgefarm.org) will be open during Maple Weekend.
  • Dill Family Farm (61 Griffin Road, Deerfield, 475-3798, facebook.com/DillFamilyFarm) will be open from 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. Saturday and Sunday.
  • Hillcroft Farm (266 South Hill Road, New Boston, 487-5047).
  • Ice Mountain Maple (276 Queen St., Boscawen, 341-4297, icemountainmaple.com) will be open during Maple Weekend, according to the NHMPA website.
  • Journey’s End Maple (295 Loudon Road, Pittsfield, journeysendmaplefarm.com) will be open from 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. both days. Activities will include a vendor pop up event, a menu of maple items and more. Journey’s End will be the site of the Governor’s Tapping on Friday, March 14, at 3:30 p.m., according to their Facebook.
  • Just Maple (475 School St., Tilton, 520-2373, justmaple.com) will be open 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. on Saturday, and from 9 a.m. to 3 p.m. on Sunday with maple concessions (including maple boiled hot dogs, maple baked beans, maple bean soup, etc), live music and educational tours, including a visit to a working sugar shack.
  • K & O’s Saphouse (83 Bumfagon Road, Loudon, 848-0044) will be open during Maple Weekend.
  • Kaison’s Sugar House (75 Forest Road, Weare, 660-6019) will be open from 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. on Saturday only so the owners can visit other sugar houses on Sunday. Sugar maker Mike will eagerly answer any questions about maple production. Maple products including maple syrup, maple lollipops and maple drops (small hard candies) will be available for purchase. Cash only.
  • Lamb’s Maple Syrup (228 Shaker Road, Canterbury, 783-9912) will be open from 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. Saturday and Sunday. Maple products will be available, cash only.
  • Ledge Top Sugar House (25 Oak St., Boscawen, 753-4973) will be open Saturday, March 16, from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m., and closed Sunday. Visit for treats including maple milkshakes and homemade old-fashioned doughnuts.
  • MapleSaint (28 Lang Road, Deerfield, 235-7167) will be open Saturday and Sunday, 9 a.m. to 4 p.m.
  • Mt. Crumpit Farm (207 Lull Road, New Boston, 325-5900).
  • Munson’s Maple (44 Blueberry Hill Road, Raymond, 303-8278).
  • North Family Farm (341 Shaker Road, Canterbury, 783-4712, northfamilyfarm.com)
  • Peterson Sugarhouse (28 Peabody Row, Londonderry, 247-5289)
  • SMD Maple Syrup (6 Falcon Drive, Merrimack, 978-815-6476, facebook. com/SMDMapleSyrup)
  • Sugar House at Morningstar Farm (30 Crane Crossing Road, Plaistow, 479-0804) will be open both days, 9:30 a.m. to 5 p.m. There will be a pancake breakfast both days, fresh cider doughnuts, maple dogs, farm animals and syrup production.
  • Sunnyside Maples (1089 Route 106 North, Loudon, 783-9961, sunnysidemaples.com)
  • Windswept Maple Farm (845 Loudon Ridge Road, Loudon, 435-4003, windsweptmaples.com)

New Hampshire Maple Weekend

Saturday, March 15, and Sunday, March 16
For a directory and a map of sugar houses holding open houses during the weekend, visit nhmapleproducers.com.
Gov. Ayotte will open the weekend, ceremonially tapping a maple tree in a ceremony at Journey’s End Maple Farm (295 Loudon Road, Pittsfield, 435-5127, journeysendmaplefarm.com) on Friday, March 14, at 3:30 p.m.

Featured photo: Boiling. Photo courtesy of Maple Producers Association.

The Weekly Dish 25/03/13

News from the local food scene

By John Fladd

[email protected]

New head of NH Food Bank: New Hampshire Food Bank (700 E. Industrial Park Drive, Manchester, 669-9725, nhfoodbank.org) has appointed a new Executive Director. Formerly the head of New Generation, Elsy Cipriani began her new role at New Hampshire Food Bank on March 3. Cipriani has worked in organizations helping vulnerable people in California, New Jersey, Massachusetts and New Hampshire.

Steel Chef: Tickets are still available for theNew Hampshire Food Bank’s 9th Annual Steel Chef Challenge, to be held Saturday, March 15, at the Doubletree Expo Center (700 Elm St., Manchester, 625-1000). Approximately 680 guests will watch a live, timed cooking competition featuring some of New Hampshire’s best chefs. As the competition heats up, guests will enjoy a fabulous dinner curated by celebrity chef Marcus Samuelsson. Proceeds will benefit the New Hampshire Food Bank. Tickets are $150 each at nhfoodbank.org/steelchef.

Mystery dinner: Averill House Vineyard (21 Averill Road, Brookline, 244-3165, averillhousevineyard.com) will host “The Leprechaun’s Secret,” a four-course mystery food and wine pairing, Saturday, March 15, from 6:30 to 8 p.m. Dress in your finest Irish attire and prepare for an evening of sipping, sleuthing and savoring. Enjoy Averill House Vineyard wines alongside an Irish-inspired secret menu. Tickets start at $59 through exploretock.com.

Crafts and corned beef: The Capital City Fine Spring Craft & Artisan Show will take place at the Capital City Sports Complex (10 Garvins Falls Road, exit 13 of I-93, in Concord) on Saturday, March 15, 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. and Sunday, March 16, 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. The event will feature 100 exhibitors including craftsmen, artists, authors and specialty food makers, according to a press release. The event will also feature green beer and corned beef to celebrate St. Patrick’s Day as well as eats from Sidelines Cafe, the release said. Admission costs $5 (valid both days) and is free for ages 14 and under. See GNECraftArtisanShows.com.

Celebrating whiskeys: Kick off St. Patrick’s Day weekend with a whiskey dinner at Unwined (1 Nashua St., Milford, 213-6703, unwinednh.com) on Thursday, March 13, at 6 p.m. The four-course dinner will feature some of Unwined’s favorite whiskey picks. Doors will open at 5:30 p.m. with a welcome cocktail, and each course will feature its own pairing of whiskey or whiskey cocktails. Tickets are $125.

Chili cook-off: St. Peter’s Episcopal Church (Mammoth Road at 3 Peabody Row Londonderry; stpeterslondonerry.org) will hold its 8th annual Chili and Chowder Cook-Off on Saturday, March 22, from 4:30 to 6:30 p.m. To compete with a chili or chowder, register at 4:15 p.m.; kids can compete in a Kids’ Dessert Competition. Admission for attendees is a $15 donation ($7 for children 10 and under).

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