Italian inspired

Pelham pastry chef takes over Nashua’s Riverwalk cafe

Life sometimes has a funny way of coming back full circle — at least that’s been the case for Rachel Manelas. The Pelham native and internationally experienced pastry chef frequented downtown Nashua’s Riverwalk Cafe & Music Bar while a student at Bishop Guertin High School, never once thinking she would someday take over the spot as owner.

Earlier this year, after studying abroad in Florence, Italy, and launching her own successful home baking business, Manelas purchased the Nashua storefront from longtime owners Steve and Jane Ruddock. She has big ideas for the storefront — now known as Riverwalk Bakery & Cafe — that will include an expanded focus on scratch-made pastries, as well as future plans for an evening menu, all while continuing to offer fresh breakfast and lunch options and house-roasted coffees. An adjoining space that recently became available will soon be home to a larger kitchen.

“I want it to be the place you go to before you go out,” said Manelas, a baking and pastry arts graduate of Johnson & Wales University who went on to attend Italy’s Florence University of the Arts. “In Italy, there’s a concept that I love that’s called aperitivo, where you can get a drink and a small plate or bite of food in the afternoon, and it’s kind of like a happy hour special. … It also helps people be able to taste things that might be different from what they’d been coming in here for. So my goal is to really try to get into a place where we can do that, and hopefully have more room in the new kitchen for experimentation with different foods and pastries.”

After completing her bachelor’s program a year early, Manelas spent the summer of 2019 in Florence, where she “fell in love” with the country and ended up staying longer than the two months planned. In late February 2020 she flew back home to join her family for a vacation, with the goal to return to Italy a week later — Covid, of course, had other plans.

“They canceled my flight and closed the borders. I had left everything there, my laptop included,” Manelas said. “Five months later I got to go back, but within that time frame, I kind of said, ‘OK, I don’t know when they’re going to open the borders again, I need to do something.’”

Around April 2020, while working as a line cook at Windham Junction, she started an online bakery through Instagram called Life’s What U Bake Of It. That business has since evolved into a website with its own online ordering system for specialty cakes, freshly baked cookies, themed French macarons and more — pickups for all of those items are now available at Riverwalk.

The cafe’s regular breakfast and lunch menus have largely remained the same, though Manelas has added her own items here and there, like a smashed avocado toast on fresh sourdough bread with cherry tomatoes, feta cheese and sunflower seeds. Coffees are still roasted in house every week using an old-school Turkish drum roaster, and Manelas is continuing to build on the pastry side — she recently added cinnamon rolls to the menu on the weekends.

“I would also love [for us] to make our own croissants. I used to make them every day in Italy and they are really, really good when they are made from scratch,” she said.

In late 2019, Riverwalk transitioned away from a ticketed live music venue in favor of a more community-focused coffee house and cocktail bar. Manelas said she plans to carry on that vision — a rotating selection of cocktails is available as part of her aperitivo concept.

“I just want it to be a nice meetup place in a casual setting, because it’s such a part of the culture out in Italy … and that was the culture that I fell in love with,” she said.

Riverwalk Bakery & Cafe
Where: 35 Railroad Square, Nashua
Hours: Monday through Thursday, 7 a.m. to 3 p.m., and Friday through Sunday, 7 a.m. to 6 p.m.
More info: Visit riverwalknashua.com, find them on Facebook and Instagram @riverwalknashua or call 578-0200

Featured photo: Photos courtesy of Riverwalk Bakery & Cafe in Nashua.

Starring the sandwich

City Hall Pub now open in Manchester

Gourmet deli-style sandwiches and craft cocktails are the stars of the menu at City Hall Pub, a new eatery now open in downtown Manchester’s theater district. The latest addition to Southern New Hampshire Hospitality Group, which also owns Mint Bistro, The Wild Rover Pub and Elm House of Pizza — the latter opened on the southern end of Elm Street early last year — City Hall Pub lies directly across the street from its namesake, sporting a uniquely rustic interior look.

Like Elm House of Pizza before it, City Hall Pub inherits a space long used by favored local eateries of the past — most recently, it was a gourmet grilled cheese restaurant and whiskey bar called Cheddar & Rye. Before that it was Tiya’s, a popular Thai restaurant, for several years.

hamburg sandwich on bun, on plate beside bowl of salad
Photos courtesy of City Hall Pub in Manchester.

“We’ve really liked a lot of what we’ve been seeing on Hanover Street … and had an opportunity to open a business in a room that I’ve certainly loved over the years, way back to being Tiya’s,” co-owner Tim Baines of Southern New Hampshire Hospitality Group said. “So we wanted to add to what is already a lot of great things going on in the area of downtown … and create a community space where people from all walks [of life] can feel comfortable and gather.”

At a seating capacity of nearly 100, the pub features everything from a renovated back bar to various booths, low- and high-top tables, a larger community table and an outdoor patio.

Along with presenting City Hall Pub as a gathering space, Baines said the eatery’s deli sandwich concept was born out of a desire to bring more lunch options to downtown Manchester.

“We definitely saw a demand for more lunch options in the downtown [area] … and we pride ourselves on being open seven days a week, for both lunch and dinner,” he said.

Out of the gate, Baines said the build-your-own sandwich option has been especially popular. You have five types of bread to choose from — ciabatta, sourdough, a pretzel bun, a whole-wheat wrap or a gluten-free wrap — and can load them with turkey, honey ham or roast beef. The customization goes even further when you add your favorite type of cheese — cheddar, Swiss, mozzarella, American or Gorgonzola — and other toppings, like lettuce, tomato, red onion, pickles or cucumber; and condiments or spreads, like garlic mayonnaise, pesto or honey mustard.

pretzel rolls on plate with 2 types of sauces
Photos courtesy of City Hall Pub in Manchester.

If you aren’t that picky, try one of the pub’s specialty sandwiches. The Thai soy chicken wrap and the City Hall burger have been among the top sellers, Baines said — the latter is topped on a pretzel bun with mixed greens, roma tomatoes, red onions and your choice of cheese.

“The City Hall burger has been the most popular item by far,” he said. “Seeing the success of the burger, we’re actually going to be doing a menu revision … and expand on the burger options.”

Non-sandwich options include various soups, salads, chilis and chowders, as well as appetizers, like a spinach queso dip with pita chips, and a hummus and vegetable platter. The full food menu is available until 10 p.m. seven nights a week, while the bar stays open for a few more hours.

On the drinks side you’ll find everything from bottled and draft beers and red and white wines to an extensive classic and specialty cocktail list. Baines said live local jazz music is currently featured at the pub every Thursday night from 7 to 10 p.m., and there are plans to expand the live music schedule in the coming months.

City Hall Pub
Where: 8 Hanover St., Manchester
Hours: Sunday through Thursday, 11:30 a.m. to midnight, and Friday and Saturday, 11:30 a.m. to 1 a.m. (kitchen stays open until 10 p.m., seven days a week)
More info: Visit cityhallpub.com, find them on Facebook @cityhallpubnh or call 232-3751

Featured photo: Photos courtesy of City Hall Pub in Manchester.

The Weekly Dish 22/08/04

News from the local food scene

Live free, eat local: August is observed as NH Eats Local Month by the New Hampshire Food Alliance — according to a press release, this year’s celebration of farms and food across the Granite State is centered around the Live Free + Eat Local Challenge. Throughout this month, participants can eat at or from five New Hampshire farms or other food businesses for a chance to win a prize. “Whether you adventure to a farm for pick-your-own peaches, look for local food at the grocery store … or buy some seafood from the coast, there are endless ways to eat local food,” Nicole Cardwell, program director for the New Hampshire Food Alliance, said in a statement. Challenge submission forms are available at more than 50 participating businesses, or online at nheatslocal.com. According to the release, they will be accepted through Aug. 31.

Bring on the poutine: Tickets to this year’s New Hampshire PoutineFest go on sale on Saturday, Aug. 6, at 10 a.m., according to the event’s website. The festival itself is due to return to Anheuser-Busch Brewery (221 Daniel Webster Hwy., Merrimack) on Saturday, Oct. 15, with VIP admission beginning at 11:30 a.m. and general admission beginning at 12:45 p.m. Since 2016 the New Hampshire PoutineFest has brought together local and regional restaurants, food trucks and other vendors to compete for the best poutine dish as voted by attendees. It had traditionally been held in the summer, but the response to last year’s Halloween-themed festival from vendors and poutine-lovers alike has prompted organizers with the Franco-American Centre to make the permanent shift to an October date. Tickets are $39.99 per person for general admission and $49.99 for VIP admission. Kids ages 6 to 12 get in for $14.99 with poutine sampling or free with no sampling, while those ages 5 and under are free. The event is rain or shine and costumes are encouraged. Purchase tickets at nhpoutinefest2022.eventbrite.com.

Native eats: Join the Hopkinton Historical Society and New Hampshire Humanities for a virtual cooking program on traditional Native American frybread, scheduled for Thursday, Aug. 11, at 7 p.m. via Zoom. Darryl Peasley of the Abenaki Trails Project will lead this demonstration — the program is one of several taking place during the Hopkinton Historical Society’s ongoing exhibit “Gather ’Round: Telling Our History Through Food,” which opened back on June 25. Upcoming programs also include an Abenaki harvest food tasting event at the Slusser Senior Center in Contoocook in October. Visit hopkintonhistory.org for a full list of events and to register.

Flavors of Haiti: After more than a year of hosting monthly pop-up dinners featuring scratch-made Haitian meals, Greenleaf owner and chef Chris Viaud and his family are gearing up to open up a new brick-and-mortar spot. Ansanm, which gets its name from the word meaning “together” in Haitian Creole, is due to open this fall at 20 South St. in Milford, just off the Oval in the former Wicked Pissah Chowdah storefront, according to recent announcements on its website and social media pages. “We will continue to offer our authentic dishes featuring our family’s recipes along with new twists on the classics,” the post reads in part, also saying that Ansanm will operate as a quick-service restaurant and will feature music, art, food and tropical drinks all celebrating Haiti. Viaud, who was a featured contestant during Season 18 of Bravo’s cooking competition series Top Chef, launched Ansanm in early 2021 as a pop-up dinner series with the help of his wife, parents and siblings. Visit ansanmnh.com for updates.

Go light for summer

Uncommon whites to go with your summer eats

It is summer and we remain in an extended heat wave. This is the season of “summer whites”— those lightweight clothes of whiter-than-white to reflect the heat of the summer sun. It is also the season of light meals — salads, sandwiches, cool entrées and desserts! And it is the season to pair light, white wines, the color of a sun-shading straw hat, with those meals.

We are always looking for something off the beaten track, wines other than chardonnays and sauvignon blancs, so we headed to the Loire Valley in France and, surprisingly, Napa Valley, to try a few whites made with other varietals.

Our first wine, the Domaine Bourillon Dorleans Premium Vouvray Brut (available at the New Hampshire Liquor & Wine Outlets, priced at $64.99, reduced to $23.99), is a delightful take on a crémant, which is sparkling wine not produced in Champagne and sometimes made with grapes other than chardonnay and pinot noir. It has a pale gold color; the bubbles are tiny and persistent. To the nose, there are citric notes with just a touch of yeast. To the tongue this bubbly is ripe with apple and honey while remaining crisp with acidity. The wine is made from 100 percent chenin blanc grapes from 30-year-old vines. It is made by the method Champenoise, with sur lie for 16 months, before being disgorged and re-corked. While crisp, this wine has a very subtle creaminess to it. Chilled, it is a perfect wine to be sipped, or joined to soft cheeses or a light meal.

Our second wine, the 2021 Pine Ridge Chenin Blanc + Viognier (priced at $17.99 but reduced to $15.99 at the New Hampshire Liquor & Wine Outlets), is a blend of 80 percent chenin blanc and 20 percent viognier. This wine is interesting in that I tend to think of chenin blanc as coming from the Loire Valley, which has a climate decidedly cooler than that of California. Because of the terroir and heat of the Valley, this wine is more expressive with notes of rich honeysuckle, orange blossoms and citric. These carry through to the tongue. In the glass, the wine has the palest of a light straw, almost silver, color. The inherent creaminess of the chenin blanc is emboldened in this wine, making it a great accompaniment to a frittata or a seafood tostada. It is indeed interesting seeing this wine come from a winery such as Pine Ridge, located in Stag’s Leap, Napa Valley, producing iconic cabernet sauvignons. This is a blend one would never see in France. The grapes for this wine come from the Sacramento River Delta, where 90-degree days are met with cool nights, producing a wine with lush flavors.

Our third wine, the 2019 Domaine Long-Depaquit Chablis (priced at $29.99, reduced to $27.99 and available at the New Hampshire Liquor & Wine Outlets), is a Burgundian chardonnay. This is a perfect wine to pair with grilled pork, salmon or tuna, shellfish, or mild cheeses if you cannot stand the prospect of cooking anything. The color is a pale greenish yellow. To the nose and tongue we find green apples, along with citric notes of lemon and lime with a slight trace of almonds, and that flinty earthiness that permeates the wines of Chablis. Chablis is the northernmost wine-growing region in Burgundy. The ancient soils of this region give its wines a distinctive minerality. This is a crisp, light wine that can make the summer heat tolerable.

Our fourth wine, a 2020 Joseph Drouhin Pouilly-Fuissé (priced at $31.99, reduced to $29.99 at the New Hampshire Liquor & Wine Outlets), is another chardonnay, but coming from vineyards in the villages of Pouilly and Fuissé, in the Mâconnaise subregion of Bourgogne, where the only grape variety grown is chardonnay. This wine is different from the others in that there is some barrel aging, six to eight months in the case of this wine, giving the wine a more “full-mouth-feel.” The color is golden, along with a slight green tinge. To the nose, green grapes and almonds abound; this is then carried through to the tongue. These are pleasant notes, not to be considered heavy, but instead ethereal, and with a long finish.

These are four wines that can satisfy every palate and yet are decidedly different from the mainstream everyday whites of chardonnay or pinot grigio. So, live dangerously! Try one of these alternative whites to pair with your summer evening meal. You will welcome the adventure!

Featured photo. Courtesy photo.

Mango Salsa

Last week we were baking; this week we are going to enjoy a cool kitchen. Take your protein outside to the grill, top it with this easy salsa, and serve it with a fresh loaf of bread from the bakery!

This salsa is perfect for pairing with almost any protein I have considered. Whether you are grilling fish, chicken, pork, steaks, or even tofu, this is the topping you need. It is slightly sweet, very crunchy, and has a little bit of acidity and bite. What better way to excite your palate?!

There are a few notes on the ingredients. For the bell pepper, you want sweet. If the red peppers don’t look good, go with orange or yellow. I like the color contrast of red, but flavor is more important. For the jalapeno, if you like heat, feel free to leave the seeds and/or ribs. I like a little less spice. For the cilantro, fresh is optimal, but you also can use dried. If you will use dried cilantro, add only one teaspoon.

This simple recipe only requires peeling, dicing, juicing and mixing. It will take maybe 10 minutes. If you want the salsa to be at peak crispness, serve it immediately. If you want the flavors more commingled, give it an hour or two in the refrigerator before serving.

Mango salsa
Serves 4

1 mango
1/2 red pepper
1/2 jalapeno, seeds & ribs removed
Juice of 1 lime
1 Tablespoon honey
2 Tablespoons diced, fresh cilantro
salt & pepper

Peel mango and cut into small cubes.
Dice red pepper.
Finely dice jalapeno.
Combine mango and peppers in a medium bowl.
Add cilantro and season with salt and pepper; stir.
In a small bowl, whisk together lime juice and honey.
Pour lime juice mixture over salsa; toss.
Can be served immediately, or covered and refrigerated.

Featured Photo: Mango salsa. Photo courtesy of Michele Pesula Kuegler.

In the kitchen with Justin Hoang

Justin Hoang of Nashua is the executive chef and co-owner of Luk’s Bar and Grill (142 Lowell Road, Hudson, 889-9900, luksbarandgrill.com) and Bellissimo Italian Steakhouse (194 Main St., Nashua, 718-8378, bellissimoitalian.com), the latter of which opened in the former Fratello’s space back on March 31. Born and raised in Nashua, Hoang worked his way up the culinary ranks at Luk’s, starting as a dishwasher before getting an opportunity to work as the chef and create menus for the restaurant. He followed suit at Bellissimo when that eatery opened earlier this year, bringing a number of signature dishes to the space that include filet oscar, saffron lobster risotto and steak tip Gorgonzola alfredo, as well as brick-oven pizzas, burgers, sandwiches, appetizers and more. Both Luk’s and Bellissimo are part of a restaurant group that also includes Joey’s Diner and The Black Forest Cafe & Bakery, both in Amherst.

What is your must-have kitchen item?

It’s a toss-up between a chef’s knife and a pair of tongs. I really don’t know which one I need more, but those are the two things that I absolutely need to be able to function in the kitchen.

What would you have for your last meal?

That would be Irish eggs Benedict.

What is your favorite local restaurant?

The New Taj India in Nashua. … I get the makhani chicken, which is basically a butter chicken, and then garlic naan and white rice. The sauce they have in that chicken is just unbelievable.

What celebrity would you like to see eating at Luk’s or Bellissimo?

Gordon Ramsay, because I watch just about every show that he’s on. … As intimidating as he comes off as in those shows, I think he’s a phenomenal chef.

What is your favorite thing on any of your menus?

That’s a tough one. I love the steak Gorgonzola alfredo. It’s on both menus, but it started at Luk’s. I made that dish because I’ve had different interpretations of it at other restaurants and I kind of meshed together what I found I enjoyed, and now it’s one of our most popular dishes. … At Bellissimo, my favorite is probably the truffle risotto with scallops. It hits different palates and there’s so much depth in that dish.

What is the biggest food trend in New Hampshire right now?

I think we’re in a transitional phase right now, but one trend that has just passed was definitely the sweet and spicy combination, and then the chicken sandwich [trend] has also come in really hard. … One of the most popular ones we have is a hot honey chicken sandwich. It’s a panko-crusted chicken breast and I make a hot honey sauce that takes me like three hours. It’s the perfect balance of sweet and spicy.

What is your favorite thing to cook at home?

Basically anything that I don’t have to cook. I cook all day long, so I’m a huge advocate for DoorDash when I get home.

Bacon jam
From the kitchen of Justin Hoang of Luk’s Bar and Grill and Bellissimo Italian Steakhouse

1 cup caramelized Vidalia onions
1 cup cooked bacon, chopped
¾ cup dark brown sugar
½ cup fresh black coffee
1 cup water
1 Tablespoon balsamic vinegar

Add the onions, bacon and brown sugar to a saucepan and simmer until the sugar is melted and incorporated. Add the water and coffee and reduce to a jam-like consistency. Take off the heat and stir in the balsamic vinegar. Season with salt to taste.

Featured photo: Justin Hoang, executive chef and co-owner of Luk’s Bar and Grill in Hudson, and Bellissimo Italian Steakhouse in Nashua. Courtesy photo.

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