Category: Food

The Weekly Dish 22/11/10

News from the local food scene

• Festive pours: Join Fulchino Vineyard (187 Pine Hill Road, Hollis) for its sixth annual Wine & Cheese Festival, to be held on Saturday, Nov. 12, and Sunday, Nov. 13. Two sessions are available each day — from 11 a.m. to 1:30 p.m., or from 2:30 to 5 p.m. — for attendees to come to the vineyard for a full tasting experience. You’ll receive your own souvenir wine glass and have the opportunity to taste meats, cheese, oils, desserts and more from around the world, along with a complimentary wine tasting. The cost is $49 per person, and attendees should print out their emailed receipt to use as their ticket. Fulchino Vineyard is also planning a three-day Christmas festival from Friday, Dec. 9, through Sunday, Dec. 11 — that event will feature food samples from all types of local artisan vendors, along with family photo opportunities with Santa Claus and Mrs. Claus. Visit fulchinovineyard.com.

• Let there be light: LaBelle Lights, the highly successful outdoor holiday light display that debuted at LaBelle Winery Derry (14 Route 111) last year, is back for a second season. The show returns on Wednesday, Nov. 16, and will continue most Wednesdays through Sundays, from 4:30 to 9 p.m., through Jan. 15 (except on Thanksgiving Day, Christmas Eve and Christmas Day). Owner and winemaker Amy LaBelle told the Hippo last year that plans were already underway to bring back the holiday celebration for a second year even before the first one had yet to come to an end. “We thought we would have 20,000 visitors throughout the three months … but as it turns out, [we’d] already had that many in the first month,” she said. The outdoor light displays are located on The Links at LaBelle Winery golf course and are designed for visitors to walk casually along a designated path, according to the website, which is also stroller and wheelchair accessible. Similar to last year, the new season will also feature several special theme nights over the course of the three months, such as a “crazy Christmas hats night” on Dec. 2, a “best Santa costume night” on Dec. 23, and a two-day “WinterFest” on Jan. 14 and Jan. 15, among others. Tickets to LaBelle Lights are $16 for adults and teens, $10 for seniors over 65, $8 for kids ages 4 to 12 and free for kids ages 3 and under. Visit labellewinery.com/lights.

• Restaurant farewell: Hooksett’s Bavaria German Restaurant has permanently closed its doors, according to a recent post from owners Anton and Monika Berger announcing their retirement. “We hope you will understand this decision was not easy,” the Oct. 20 post reads in part. “We would like to thank all of our patrons for the many years of good business and friendship. It was our pleasure to have served you.” The Bergers had owned the German eatery since March 2010 — Anton Berger had more than four decades of experience as a chef prior to coming to New Hampshire, including at a more than 200-seat restaurant and outdoor beer garden in Munich, Germany. The Hooksett restaurant was known for its authentic German options made fresh daily from family recipes, from jägerschnitzel to bratwurst.

Wine pairing, Italian style

What to drink with each course of a hearty Italian meal

The crisp days of autumn call for a reunion of family and friends. Italians are well-practiced at family reunions over hours-long dinners, with multiple courses, accompanied by the appropriate wines, punctuated by short rests between the plates.

The gathering may start with a traditional aperitivo, a sampling of a plant-based dip, olives, nuts, and cheeses, followed by a traditional antipasto, an arrangement of best cheeses, meats, marinated artichokes, olives, crostini, the spread before the main meal. It is a delight to both the eye and the tastebuds. The primi piatti, or first course, can be a pasta, risotto, soup or polenta; the possibilities are endless. Secondi piatti, or second course, will feature different types of meat and fish. The portions are small and will typically have a vegetable alongside the protein. Just when you think you have completed the meal, along comes the insalata, composed of leafy greens dressed with oil and vinegar, salt and pepper; and lastly, followed by the dolce, or dessert. Panna cotta or tiramisu are prime examples, served alongside a tiny cup of dark, strong coffee.

What sort of wines are served with this mélange of courses, all different from each other? The aperitivo calls for a prosecco or spritz. The antipasto calls for an unoaked white or a light dry red wine like a barbera. The primi piatti course typically calls for a wine that will match the dish, dry for a pasta laced with pesto, or a creamy chardonnay with a pasta with clam sauce. The secondi piatti course will be matched to a wine that depends on the protein, from pinot gris, which pairs well with a creamy seafood dish, to a dry Chianti, the most commonly consumed wine of Italy. The insalata and dolce are the only two courses without a pairing to wine.

Two red wines noted in the paragraphs above include barbera, from the Piedmont region of Italy, and Chianti, from Tuscany, made primarily from sangiovese grapes. What are their similarities and differences? Sangiovese is a relatively “sweet” newer wine, but its sweetness can be brought closer to barbera when blended with dry red wines. Both have strawberry as a primary flavor, but that “sweetness” may be more apparent in the sangiovese than in the barbera. We should note the term “sweet” does not imply sugar; it refers more to the level of fruit that is experienced in the nose and on the tongue.

The Vite Colte Piedmonte Spasso Passito Appassimento Rosso, available at the New Hampshire Liquor & Wine Outlets, priced at $39.99 and reduced to $19.99, has a deep ruby red color. To the nose it is open and elegant, with ripe fruit of berries and plum. On the tongue, the wine is dry with light tannins; the fruit carries through with some herbaceous notes. Barbera is not grown on the best real estate of the Piedmont, but its lowly position should not be ignored. It is meant to be enjoyed young, is affordable, and is a perfect complement to the antipasto, or perhaps also enjoyed with the courses that follow.

The 2015 Castello Fonterutoli Chianti Classico Gran Selezione, from the Mazzei Vineyards, available at the New Hampshire Liquor & Wine Outlets, priced at $71.99 and reduced to $35.99, may not be the least expensive Chianti, but it is an excellent choice, coming from one of the most prestigious wineries of Tuscany, owned by the Mazzei family for 26 generations. This blend of 92 percent sangiovese, 4 percent malvasia nera and 4 percent colorino, two indigenous varietals, it hails from the vineyard’s best parcels. With a deep red color and pronounced fruit to the nose and tongue, this Chianti calls for rich, dark meats, mushrooms, herbs, herbaceous cheeses, root vegetables and braised greens. It will complement a rich, meaty secondi piatti.

Autumn is a time to settle back indoors. Plan a four-hour, multi-course Italian dinner, with family and friends. Enjoy the camaraderie of sharing a well-planned spread, paired with an excellent selection of wines. Repeat those great stories again, revisit those shared adventures, all enjoyed over great food and wine. Enjoy a meal the way Italians do!

Caramel-stuffed chocolate chip cookies

It’s the week after Halloween, and you may be wondering why you would need a dessert recipe. Think of it as a way of reducing the amount of candy floating around your home. Alternatively, this recipe could go into your holiday planning file.

This recipe was created with caramel-filled chocolate candies, but you definitely could make a substitution. Peanut butter-filled candies, Hershey’s kisses, or other small chocolate candies could be used as the filling for this recipe. Take a peek in your candy stash, and see what you could use.

These cookies store well. I have made batches that were shipped cross country and weren’t eaten until a week after baking and were still as delicious as the day they were made. So, as you start to think about your holiday baking, these could be a perfect choice. Make them in advance of gatherings or cookie exchanges, and know that you will have cookies ready when you need them!

Note: I have always used muffin tin liners when making these. Greasing the pan will work, but it is definitely a distant second choice for me.

Caramel stuffed chocolate chip cookies
Makes 48

1 cup unsalted butter, softened
¾ cup light brown sugar
¾ cup granulated sugar
2 eggs
1 teaspoon vanilla
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon baking powder
2¾ cups all-purpose flour
1 cup mini chocolate chips
48 chocolate-covered caramels, unwrapped

In the bowl of a stand mixer or in a large mixing bowl, combine butter and sugars.
Beat on medium speed for 3 minutes.
Add eggs, one at a time, beating until incorporated.
Stir in vanilla.
Add salt, baking powder and flour, mixing until blended.
Add chocolate chips, stirring until combined.
Cover dough with plastic wrap and refrigerate for 2 hours.
After 2 hours, preheat oven to 350 degrees.
Line a mini muffin pan with liners, or grease each cup.
Place a heaping teaspoon of dough into each cup.
Bake for 10 minutes or until golden.
Place tray on wire rack and push one caramel candy into each cookie.
Cool for 5 minutes, then transfer cookies from muffin pan to cooling rack.
Store in a resealable container once fully cooled.

Featured Photo: Caramel-stuffed chocolate chip cookies. Photo by Michele Pesula Kuegler.

In the kitchen with Sergio Metes

Sergio Metes is the executive chef of Luna Bistro (254 N. Broadway, Salem, 458-2162, luna-bistro.com), a tapas and wine bar that opened in Salem’s Breckenridge Plaza on North Broadway in June. A New Hampshire native, Metes got his start in the restaurant industry working in southern Florida under acclaimed chef Mennan Tekeli. Much of his practice combines Central and South American cuisine with some American or Spanish influences. Prior to joining the team at Luna Bistro, Metes worked at several local restaurants as a chef or consultant, including the former Unum’s in Nashua, which was known for its eclectic New American cuisine. He has also had culinary stints all over the Seacoast of New Hampshire and in southern Maine. Best-selling items at Luna Bistro include the cola-braised short rib tacos, the truffle fries, the crab cakes and the artichoke dip. The eatery is also a popular spot in town for its lounge seating, live music and comedy shows.

What is your must-have kitchen item?

I have to have very sharp knives. … It makes everything fast and accurate, and you’re able to really maximize your time-efficiency.

What would you have for your last meal?

I would have some really nice traditional Peruvian-style ceviche. It’s just a beautiful, tasty and wonderful thing to have … and for me, there are some memories associated with it as well.

What is your favorite local restaurant?

I really enjoy The Birch on Elm [in Manchester]. … They’re under construction right now, but I’m looking forward to when they’ll reopen soon.

What celebrity would you like to see eating at Luna Bistro?

You know who I really enjoy is Bradley Cooper. Something about him just says to me that this would be a really funny guy to talk to and socialize with. … He reminds me in a way of a brother-in-law, just [because of] his mannerisms, and my brother-in-law is a fun guy.

What is your favorite thing on your menu?

The one that I enjoy the most, I would say, is the cioppino. It’s basically a dish that consists of a little seafood broth, and then I add some arrabbiata sauce, which is a spicy tomato-based sauce, and some shrimp and mussels, and then just basically let them do their magic in the broth. … We serve it with a grilled lemon and a couple of grilled crostinis and some scallions, and it’s just a very comfortable, enjoyable dish to have.

What is the biggest food trend in New Hampshire right now?

I’ve noticed a lot of places … [that are] bringing that rustic feeling into restaurants, and then just more local flavors … from farms in the area.

What is your favorite thing to cook at home?

I like to make coq au vin. … It’s basically chicken that has been braised and cooked in red wine with some aromatics in there. I like making that because the chicken gets really tender and it has this really nice flavor from the wine. I’ll have it normally with either some risotto or rice, or some roasted or boiled potatoes.

Cioppino (seafood stew)
From the kitchen of Sergio Metes of Luna Bistro in Salem

2 cups seafood broth
Mussels
Scallops
Shrimp
¼ cup white wine
1 Tablespoon basil chiffonade
3 cloves garlic, sliced thin
2 roma tomatoes, cut into quarters
¼ cup to ½ cup olive oil
Salt and pepper as needed

Cook the garlic on medium heat for two minutes. Add the mussels, scallops, shrimp, wine and tomatoes. Allow to simmer for two to four minutes. Add seafood broth and basil. Cover for about four to five minutes, until the mussels are open and the shrimp is fully cooked (scallops can be added as preferred to achieve the desired level of doneness). A touch of fresh-squeezed lemon and crusty bread for dipping are recommended.

Featured photo: Sergio Metes of Luna Bistro in Salem. Courtesy photo.

Soup’s on

Bouillon Bistro now open in Milford

Scratch-made artisan soups, chowders and stews are the stars of the menu at Bouillon Bistro — formerly known as Wicked Pissah Chowdah, the eatery has found a new home on the Milford Oval, where it held a grand opening Oct. 7 just in time for the town’s Pumpkin Festival weekend.

Co-owner Sue Poulin left her corporate career to purchase Wicked Pissah Chowdah, at the time located on South Street just off the Oval, from founder Ellen Muckstadt in June 2020. Poulin and business partner Lisa Gamache have also since opened a second location in Townsend, Mass.

Bouillon Bistro is unique for featuring a different lineup of around six to eight home-cooked soups every single day, with a total of 35 to 40 rotating soups available any given week. By Monday, the new menu for the upcoming week is posted to the website and on social media.

“There’s a lot that goes into it. The process starts at around 8, 8:30 in the morning … and then by about 10 or 10:15, everything is nice and percolating,” Poulin said. “We open the doors at 11, so we like to let the soups sit in the cauldron for 40 minutes or so to let the flavors do their thing.”

Hot soups are then served straight out of the pot from 11 a.m. until 2:30 p.m. (or, for the really popular soups, whenever they sell out — Poulin said it’s not uncommon for some soups to not make it past the lunchtime hour). A cooling process begins at 2:30 p.m. for the leftover batches.

“Whatever is left, we put them in an ice bath, bring the temperatures down and then we package them in pints and quarts to go in the cooler. Then we’re open until 6 for cold takeout,” Poulin said. “[They are] good for up to a week in the refrigerator, or up to a year in the freezer.”

Saturdays are when Bouillon Bistro will serve what Poulin calls a “wild card” lineup of soups, or options based on whatever excess inventory or ingredients they’ll find themselves with.

Since taking over the business, Poulin estimates amassing around 120 different soup recipes. They’ll often run the gamut from traditional offerings like beef stew, corn chowder, broccoli cheddar soup and New England-style seafood chowder to more unique soups, like a Mexican-inspired chicken tortilla soup, a cheeseburger soup with ground beef, shredded carrots, diced celery and potatoes, a Buffalo chicken soup, a creamy sausage tortellini soup and more.

In addition to the soups, the eatery offers bread, bagged crackers and a small menu of paninis.

“I really want to be known for the soups, and going forward we’ll be doing different sides just to accompany the soups,” Poulin said, “Each one would have a fun side.”

Poulin said that, like at its South Street predecessor, the plan is for Bouillon Bistro to temporarily close just before Memorial Day and reopen Labor Day weekend.

Bouillon Bistro of Milford
Where: 123 Union Square, Milford
Hours: Tuesday through Friday, 11 a.m. to 6 p.m., and Saturday, 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. Closed on Sundays and Mondays.
More info: Visit bouillonbistro.com, find them on Facebook and Instagram or call 213-5443

Featured photo: Sausage and gnocchi soup. Photo courtesy of Bouillon Bistro of Milford.

Winter is brewing

Oktoberfest, ski and snowboard sale return to Pats Peak

Just ahead of its season kickoff, Pats Peak Ski Area in Henniker is inviting you to the slopes for two concurrent annual events to celebrate — a ski and snowboard sale inside its main lodge, and an outdoor German food festival and beer garden, complete with live music, a magic show, a stein holding contest, keg bowling, demonstrations and more. It’s all happening on Sunday, Nov. 6, at 11 a.m. and is free to attend, regardless of whether or not you’re a Pats Peak passholder.

“There’s a lot going on, and you can come and shop at the sale and stay for the Oktoberfest, see all your friends and get ready for winter,” said Lori Rowell, Pats Peak’s director of marketing and sales. “The food and the band are all outside underneath a big tent in front of the main lodge, [and] the Oktoberfest goes from 11 a.m. to 5 p.m., while the sale goes from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m.”

According to Rowell, Pats Peak’s in-house kitchen team — led by longtime head chef Guy Pelletier — prepares all of the dishes featured at the German food festival. Options will include knockwurst or bratwurst, steamed in beer and served on 6-inch sub rolls with sauerkraut and grilled onions. You’ll also be able to order a plate of pork schnitzel with mushroom gravy and sides like hot German potato salad, braised red cabbage with baked apple, and a warm soft jumbo pretzel. Kids’ hot dogs and chicken fingers will be available as well.

For those with a sweet tooth there will be apple crisp with your choice of ice cream or whipped cream (or both) and, of course, Pats Peak’s famous home-baked giant M&M cookies.

“The cookies started back in the early ’60s, [when] the owners’ wives used to be the cooks in the kitchen,” Rowell said. “They made chocolate chip cookies at first, and then someone said, ‘Oh, let’s put M&Ms in them.’ So then they would just make them bigger and bigger, and now they’re so big, they’re like the size of your face. … We can only fit six of them on one big sheet pan. I think the chef said we sell something like 20,000 of them a season.”

The beer tent, meanwhile, is sponsored by Harpoon Brewery and will include many of its seasonal selections, from its Oktoberfest to its Flannel Friday and Rec. League brews.

The Massachusetts-based Bavarian Brothers band is scheduled to perform traditional Oktoberfest party music for the duration of the festival. Rowell added that, between the band’s breaks, there will be a series of three magic shows with Marko the Master Magician and Hypnotist.

A beer stein holding contest is also planned, with signups available on the day of the event. An Oktoberfest tradition that’s also now a competitive sport, the contest challenges you to hold a beer-filled stein out in front of your body with one hand for as long as possible.

“There’s also going to be bounce houses for the kids, a woodsman show … and an ax throwing trailer,” Rowell said. “This year we also have a new event called McDonny’s Traveling Farm. It’s a petting farm with chickens, ducks, bunnies and goats.”

As for the ski and snowboard sale, Rowell said that’s put on by the Pats Peak Ski Team, a nonprofit alpine race program that gives kids the opportunity to participate in race training exercises and competitions throughout New England, mostly in New Hampshire and Vermont.

While it does largely depend on the weather, Pats Peak’s projected season runs from the first Saturday of December through the last Sunday of March. Rowell said that Jan. 5 will mark the 60th anniversary of skiing at the slopes.

“Our plan is to start making snow in the middle of November, and if we have favorable snowmaking and enough snow, we’ll open,” she said.

Oktoberfest/ski and snowboard sale
When: Sunday, Nov. 6 (Oktoberfest is from 11 a.m. to 5 p.m.; ski and snowboard sale is from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m.)
Where: Pats Peak Ski Area, 686 Flanders Road, Henniker
Cost: Free admission; food and beers are priced per item
Visit: patspeak.com
Oktoberfest is rain or shine. Anyone who wishes to sell their own skiing or snowboarding equipment must drop it off between 10 a.m. and 3 p.m. on Saturday, Nov. 5, and fill out a consignor form online at patspeakracing.org.

Featured photo: Photos courtesy of Pats Peak Ski Area in Henniker.

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