Album Reviews 22/09/29

Maraton, Unseen Color (Indie Recordings)

Well, here’s a nice attempt at prog rock by a bunch of Norwegians, whose first album, 2019’s Meta, set the band off in the direction of serious things like festival concerts and all that happy stuff, not that basically every European band doesn’t get to play at those things. On this one, their fifth in three years, believe it or not, the singer is growing into his own as a Seal-soundalike, at least in album opener “In Syzygy,” which is probably indicative of a desired future as some sort of New Age festival staple band, a la Shadowfax and such. Do I mind this stuff? No, to be honest; it’s not Yes or Return To Forever, it’s slightly like Asia, but with a gentler, less in-your-face melodic approach. “Blind Sight” is really ’80s-sounding; they’re probably big into Tangerine Dream, which works for me, given other tacks they could have taken. It’s OK. B+

Kristian Montgomery and the Winter Kill Band, Lower County Outlaw (self-released)

It’s really not hard for me to keep up with eclectic Vermont-based folk-rocker Montgomery, what with the friendship we hatched on social media, but that’s not why this six-song EP gets a high mark. I was drawn to his stuff from the first time I heard it, a couple of records back; it’s fedora-rock but with top-drawer melodic urgency and no filler. I’m sure the ever humble Montgomery would attribute that to the synergy he’s developed with drummer Andrew Koss, but he’s had it in him the whole while, I assure you, and these songs are yet another quantum leap. His trip is a hybrid that melds bluegrass-tinged folk-rock to, well, name an arena band and he’s probably tried it on for size. “Gypsy Girl,” for instance, starts out with an early Yes guitar line, down to the backward-masked reverb effect, and then goes all-out Allman Brothers like a boss. “Easy To Forget You When I’m Gone” has a Chris Whitley angle to it, if that’s your thing; “Annie Pay Your Band” is a swampy Cajun beef-fest whose lyrics are directed at a Massachusetts concert promoter. A+

Playlist

• Friday, Sept. 30, is the next big date for CD releases, and we may as well kick off the anti-festivities with Slipknot’s new album, The End So Far. There are many people who like this pseudo-metal band, but I am not among them. In fact, one of the least enjoyable interviews I ever did was when I talked to their DJ, Sid Wilson, back when he was trying to sell himself as a massively indie jungle/dubstep edgelord. He went by the name DJ Starscream back then and had a sort of MF Doom trip going on, with some stupid metal facemask thing and all that. Anyway he was really annoying when I spoke to him, like he expected me to know all the obscure underground dubstep guys he was referencing, and the whole interview got bogged down with him trying to “OK boomer” me with a barrage of nonsense. The interview was for a show he was doing in Miami if I recall correctly, and the article had to be full of nice words, so as much as I wanted to simply write a bunch of jokes about how contrived and stupid he is, I wrote some nice things I didn’t want to. Karma did win in the end though, folks — Wilson did send me a couple of vinyl singles that I immediately sold on eBay. But that’s all neither here nor there, Wilson is just one cog in the Slipknot “juggernaut,” so let’s leave behind my memories of wanting to bake him in a pie and see how much I can stand of sampler single “The Dying Song (Time To Sing).” Yup, there we go, it’s the same old Slipknot: half the song is death metal lunchmeat and the other half is old-school emo/nu-metal. A lot of people dig this stuff, which I find is the only interesting thing about it.

• Wait, here’s something I can deal with, the new album from Yeah Yeah Yeahs, titled Cool It Down. As you may or may not know, the New York-based post-punk-revival band features South Korean-born American singer Karen O, along with a guitarist and a drummer who looks like he’s 12 years old. Pretty bratty stuff from this band, historically, not as mentally ill as Hole or whatnot, but pretty jagged and always interesting, so hopefully the new single, “Spitting Off the Edge of the World,” which features Perfume Genius. Well, listen to that, it’s a departure from their norm, but a nice departure: slow, melodic, epic shoegaze, with Karen coming off as an asexual moonbat, which she plays rather well. I love stuff like this and hope you do too.

• I’d be a complete loser if I didn’t mention Doggerel, the new album from Pixies, a local band that helped bring about the fall of the Boston rock scene that was actually happening during the 1980s after The Cars got big. Anyone remember that? If it hadn’t been for bad bands like Pixies and all those guys, Boston would have been a pretty happening place, a legitimate mecca of music that would have attracted major-label guys and big producers, which would have resulted in about 30 Led Zeppelins taking over the world from our dumb New England area, but alas, when all the big shots came to Boston from L.A. and New York, they weren’t impressed by Del Fuegos or the Neighborhoods, but they did sign the Pixies. That brings us to now, and the new tune “There’s A Moon On,” a rockabilly-tinged garage song that is decidedly OK, nothing to hate and nothing to be impressed over.

• We’ll close with Nymph, the debut album from British rapper-DJ Shygirl, who cites Aphex Twin and Madonna as influences. That makes no sense, but the kickoff single, “Coochie,” is nice enough, with its bloopy, half-there, Billie Eilish-ish beat, Empire Of The Sun-inspired melody and Shygirl’s pretty soprano. My stars, the record company’s bots have gone nuts posting comments on the video. Whatever it takes, I suppose.

If you’re in a local band, now’s a great time to let me know about your EP, your single, whatever’s on your mind. Let me know how you’re holding yourself together without being able to play shows or jam with your homies. Send a recipe for keema matar. Message me on Twitter (@esaeger) or Facebook (eric.saeger.9).

Give in to pumpkin spice

Long, long ago, when I was a child in the Late Cretaceous, late September was one of the low-key best times of the year. That’s when the new cartoons premiered on Saturday mornings. I’m at the age when strong feelings of joy and anticipation are largely a pale memory, but at the time, the prospect of new episodes of Jonny Quest filled my world with a sparkle and wonder that I miss dearly.

For adults, weeks crawl by, seasons bleed unremarked into each other, and the next thing you know, you’re having earnest conversations with strangers about dental plans and snow tires.

So — what to do about it?

Another fall has rotated into place. Perhaps, the key to being more alive and in-the-moment might be to look to the past and do what our ancestors did to mark the change of seasons.

The ancient Celts believed that grain spirits were trapped in the last grain to be harvested and needed to be set free, so they would weave the stalks of the last of their harvests into a Wicker Man, then symbolically burn that and scatter the ashes across their fields.

My fear of confrontation is such that I think I’d have trouble murdering even a piece of glorified deck furniture.

Perhaps the best plan is to lean into our own fall tradition — Pumpkin Spice.

Pumpkin Spice Simple Syrup

  • 7 grams whole cinnamon sticks, broken
  • 5 grams fresh ginger, chopped
  • 3 grams allspice berries
  • 3 grams whole cloves
  • 5 grams whole nutmeg
  • 1 cup/200 grams sugar
  • 1 cup/225 gram (ml) water

Lightly crush the allspice, nutmeg and cloves in a mortar and pestle. You might want to start with the nutmeg, because it is probably in one big chunk. You’re not trying to grind these spices down to powder, just to crack them all open to allow more surface area contact with the boiling syrup.

Put all ingredients into a small saucepan and bring to a boil. Let the mixture boil for 15 to 20 seconds to make sure that the sugar is completely dissolved.

Set aside and allow to steep for an hour.

Strain with a fine-meshed strainer, then filter with a coffee filter to take out all the bits of spices.

Bottle and label. Store in your refrigerator.

Because this recipe measures the spices by mass, not by volume, theoretically, it should work just as well with ground spices, but the end result will probably be a cloudier syrup.

An easy cocktail to make with this:

[Your Name] Special

  • ¾ oz. pumpkin spice syrup (see above)
  • 2 oz. applejack
  • ¾ oz. fresh squeezed lemon juice
cocktail in martini glass surrounded by ingredients
[Your Name] Special. Photo by John Fladd.

Shake over ice.

Pour into a coupé glass.

Drink with a glad heart, full of good will.

Is this a glorified daiquiri? Possibly.

A brandy sour? Well, yes, that, too.

Lemon juice and simple syrup are a classic combination, because the lemon brings a bright acidity, without too much baggage, flavor-wise. In this case, the heavy lifting is done by the pumpkin-spice syrup, which reminds you of hay rides and stuff, while the applejack, an apple brandy, gives the whole enterprise some boozy authority.

This is one of those drinks that you can make for a friend, and when they sip it and ask what it is, you can call it a “[Their Name] Special.” When they ask what’s in it, you reply, “Trust.”

Then you sit on the deck together and make fun of the squirrels.

Featured photo. Pumpkin Spice Simple Syrup. Photo by John Fladd.

Quick and spicy pineapple jam

Happy fall! Not only is it the return of cooler weather, it is also the return of me wanting to spend time in the kitchen cooking and baking. Yes, I do cook all year long, but once the temperatures drop, even just a little bit, I’m more excited to work with my oven and stove.

Today’s recipe is incredibly simple and makes a delicious accompaniment to a snack menu.

You may wonder why I didn’t just buy jam. I have two good reasons. First, when I make the jam I can control the amount of sugar in it, so it isn’t overly sweet. Second, I can add additional flavors, such as a bit of spice.

Let’s look at the ingredients. I use light brown sugar, as I like its flavoring. You can use dark brown, but it will add more of a caramel note. For the onion, I think sweet onion really is the best, but in a pinch you could use yellow. I wouldn’t substitute red onion; it has too much bite. The pineapple needs to be fresh, not canned. Canned pineapple has too much moisture. Finally, if you like heat, you definitely can double the amount of chili powder or add a little hot sauce to the final product.

Once the jam is ready, it makes a great addition to your snack time. You can serve it with some cheddar cheese or manchego and crackers. It makes an interesting dip for chicken tenders. It also could be a delicious topping for savory cheesecake. It definitely is a fun condiment to have on hand.

Quick and spicy pineapple jam
Makes 24

⅓ cup cider vinegar
¼ cup light brown sugar
2 Tablespoons finely minced sweet onion
1½ cups diced pineapple
½ teaspoon chili powder

Combine vinegar and sugar in a small saucepan over medium heat.
Stir occasionally until sugar dissolves.
Add onion and simmer for 3 minutes.
Add pineapple and chili powder; bring to a boil.
Lower heat and simmer, stirring occasionally for 40 minutes.
Allow to cool slightly
Then transfer to a serving dish and refrigerate for at least an hour before serving.

Featured Photo: Quick and spicy pineapple jam. Photo by Michele Pesula Kuelger.

In the kitchen with Rocky Burpee

George “Rocky” Burpee of Loudon is the owner of Shaker Road Provisions (89 Fort Eddy Road, Suite 2, Concord, shakerroadprovisions.com), which opened April 16 in the former Smokeshow Barbeque space. Scratch-made bacon is the heart of the operation at the shop, which offers everything from flavored slices and bits to all kinds of bacon-incorporated prepared foods, like burgers, macaroni and cheese and even bacon chocolate bars. Shaker Road Provisions regularly sells its bacon at the Concord Farmers Market on Saturdays, from 8:30 a.m. to noon, and at the Salem Farmers Market on Sundays, from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. — both markets will continue to run outdoors through the end of October. The shop also carries a selection of various locally sourced products, and recently received approval to sell its bacon to restaurants.

What is your must-have kitchen item?

The most important thing to me, for bacon specifically, is my slicer. I spent the money on a really nice slicer and it’s made all the difference from when I first started.

What would you have for your last meal?

I’d have to say … a surf and turf. Just an amazing aged rib-eye and a nice fat lobster tail, or something like that.

What is your favorite local restaurant?

Without a doubt, Industry East [in Manchester]. [Chef] Jeff Martin is a genius, especially with what he has to work with in that kitchen. And, [owners] Jeremy [Hart] and Dan [Haggerty] are just amazing guys. … My wife and I, we try to go there at least a couple times a month. … I always try to get the specials, but you can’t go wrong with the Goon Glizzy, their crab rangoon hot dog, and also the steak and cheese tacos.

What celebrity would you like to see trying your bacon?

I’m a die-hard Gordon Ramsay fan, but I also know that he doesn’t pull any punches, so I’d be really nervous for him to try it. … The only other person that comes to mind immediately would be Alton Brown. He taught me a lot when his show came out, just because he’s so analytical and the way he breaks things down is great.

What is your favorite thing you make that incorporates your bacon?

I think the bacon burgers are just out of this world … and you also can’t go wrong with our sweet and spicy bacon bits in a scrambled egg dish. They are just fantastic. That was actually my wife’s idea.

What is the biggest food trend in New Hampshire right now?

The trend is not to be trendy. It’s innovation and it’s trying new things. It’s like, more [about] who can outdo the next person and who can get crazy and put stuff together that hasn’t been put together before.

What is your favorite thing to cook at home?

I love prime rib. My prime rib is slathered in my bacon fat, covered in my spice mix and then I sous vide it for 10 hours. … Serve that with a side of potatoes any way you like it, and it’s just like upscale meat and potatoes.

Baked potato soup with bacon
From the kitchen of George “Rocky” Burpee of Shaker Road Provisions in Concord

1½ pounds baked potatoes
½ cup flour
6 cups milk
1 cup shredded cheddar cheese
1 bunch green onions, chopped
6 to 8 ounces Shaker Road Provisions bacon (maple or peppered), cooked and roughly chopped (substitute sweet and spicy bacon bits for an extra punch of flavor)
Salt and pepper to taste

Bake potatoes in a 400-degree oven for one hour or until fork tender. Once cool, peel and cut into small chunks, or lightly mash. While the potatoes cool, in a large Dutch oven over medium heat, add the flour and slowly stir in the milk, whisking continuously until the flour is fully incorporated. Continue stirring often until the milk is bubbling and thickened (about 10 minutes). Add the potatoes to the pot and blend with an immersion blender, or transfer to a blender in batches and blend until smooth. If you prefer more texture, you can also fully mash the potatoes prior to adding them to the milk and skip blending them. Return the blended soup to low heat. Add the cheese, sour cream, green onion and bacon or bacon bits (reserve some bacon for a garnish if you want to make it look extra pretty). Season to taste with salt and fresh cracked black pepper. (Optional: As a gluten-free option, use 4 cups of milk and skip the flour).

Featured photo: George “Rocky” Burpee, owner of Shaker Road Provisions in Concord. Courtesy photo.

Cooking with magic

Cucina Aurora owner releases new recipe book

By Mya Blanchard

[email protected]

Everybody needs food to survive — this commonality connects all of us as human beings, and is a sentiment at the core of local chef Dawn Hunt’s new book Kitchen Witchcraft for Beginners: Spells, Recipes, and Rituals to Bring Your Practice Into the Kitchen.

Released Sept. 27, the book chronicles various methods of harvesting and cultivating love, connection and relationships through food. It’s the latest project for Hunt, the owner and founder of Cucina Aurora Kitchen Witchery, which offers a line of products like infused olive oils and risotto mixes.

Originally from New York, Hunt grew up in a traditional Italian family where, she said, “food is our religion.” As she has food allergies, Hunt began to look for ways to cook for herself that didn’t compromise flavor. Eventually her cooking spread beyond her own personal table, as she started selling at farmers markets and teaching classes about the principles of cooking with good intentions. This, she said, is what it means to be a self-proclaimed “kitchen witch.”

“For me, it’s about cooking with love, putting positive energy into the food and doing my cooking, my shopping, [using] my resources and purchasing foods intentionally,” she said, adding that it is this focus on intention that is at the core of witchcraft.

During her days of traveling to various farmers markets, Hunt found support in New England.

illustrated cover for recipe book
Kitchen Witchcraft for Beginners is out now.

“My experience was that in New England people really got what I was doing, [and] they understood,” she said.

She found that she was embraced by the people in New Hampshire, a place where she had always wanted to live.

“The way the community … embraced this idea of cooking with love and [being] really intentional with what you’re eating and creating in the kitchen … was really unique for me to find,” Hunt said. “It wasn’t that experience in New York.”

A year after moving to New Hampshire in 2010, Hunt quit her job and decided to work on Cucina Aurora full-time. The company has been in Salem since 2012.

Hunt started working on her new book after being scouted out by the publisher, who was looking for someone to write about the basics of putting love and intention into one’s food. Unlike her previous book, 2020’s A Kitchen Witch’s Guide to Recipes for Love & Romance, which focuses on aphrodisiac food, this book provides more basic knowledge about the ingredients and tools used to make the recipes. It also includes recipes that don’t involve food, something she was challenged to do by the publisher, who asked Hunt if she could come up with blends for everything from teas to cleaning solutions and soaps. In addition, the book contains “seasonally synchronized” recipes.

“I try to stay connected to the rhythm of the seasons by eating and cooking seasonally,” Hunt said. “That’s a big part of what I consider kitchen witchcraft.”

To Hunt, “food is the connective tissue between human beings.” This notion is at the core of Hunt’s company and her book. Hunt said she believes “there is magic in the connectivity of food,” which the recipes and rituals in the book will help readers unlock.

Kitchen Witchcraft for Beginners
Kitchen Witchcraft for Beginners: Spells, Recipes, and Rituals to Bring Your Practice Into the Kitchen, by Dawn Hunt
Available now wherever books are sold. Visit cucinaaurora.com to order a signed copy.

A Kitchen Witch’s cure-all chicken soup
Courtesy of Dawn Hunt, as seen in her book Kitchen Witchcraft for Beginners: Spells, Recipes, and Rituals to Bring Your Practice Into the Kitchen (serves 6 to 8)

chicken soup in mug with handle on table with bread

2 32-ounce cartons chicken broth (organic is preferable)
2 cups cubed cooked chicken
2 Tablespoons olive oil
1 cup chopped celery
1 yellow onion, chopped
1 cup chopped carrots
3 garlic cloves, minced
Salt
Freshly ground black pepper
Rosemary sprigs

In a large (5-quart) sauce pot, warm the oil over medium heat. Add the celery, onion, carrots and garlic. Cook, sauteeing on medium heat until the onions are soft and translucent. Add the chicken broth and the chicken. Bring to a boil. Once boiling, add the salt and the pepper to taste and stir three times, clockwise, to infuse the soup with positive intentions for health and healing. Reduce the heat to a simmer. Add the rosemary on top of the liquid and cover the pot. Let the soup simmer on low heat for at least one hour. Serve hot with noodles or crusty bread for dipping.

Featured photo: Dawn Hunt of Cucina Aurora. Courtesy photo.

The Weekly Dish 22/09/29

News from the local food scene

• Farm fresh pizzas: Join Brookford Farm (250 West Road, Canterbury) for a family-friendly pizza party on Saturday, Oct. 1, from 1 to 4 p.m., an event held in conjunction with the Northeast Organic Farming Association of New Hampshire to celebrate its 50th anniversary. Attendees can feast on house-made brick oven pizzas and sides that will be loaded with farm-fresh organic ingredients, and the party will also include live music, children’s activities, a farm tour, an exhibitor fair, raffle prizes and more. Tickets are $20 for adults and $10 for kids. Admission is free for kids under the age of 2. Visit nofanh.org/brookford-farm-event.

• A bite of the apple: The Salvation Army of Nashua will hold its annual Applefest on Saturday, Oct. 1, and Sunday, Oct. 2, from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. each day, at Sullivan Farm (70 Coburn Ave., Nashua). In addition to apple picking, the rain-or-shine event will feature a variety of treats available for sale, like fresh cider, apple pies, ice cream, hamburgers and hot dogs. Other activities will include hay rides, scarecrow making, face painting, crafts and demonstrations from local businesses and groups. Tickets are $1 for food and activities — rates include one ticket for games, three tickets for hay rides and five tickets for apple crisp with ice cream. Visit nne.salvationarmy.org/nashua.

• Prost! Save the date for the annual Oktoberfest celebration at Mile Away Restaurant (52 Federal Hill Road, Milford) on Sunday, Oct. 2, from 12:30 to 5:30 p.m. In addition to an authentic food menu of German eats, there will be special Oktoberfest beers, live music and more. No entrance fee is necessary, but there is a $20 parking fee per car. Visit mileawayrestaurantnh.com.

• Plant-based perfection: Concord author Renee Plodzik will be at Gibson’s Bookstore (45 S. Main St., Concord) on Thursday, Oct. 6, at 6:30 p.m., to present her cookbook Eat Well Move Often Stay Strong. The book features several nutritional and seasonal recipes that include plant-based ingredients, often found locally — breakfast items, creative salads, protein-packed soups and sweet treats are all included. Plodzik is a nurse practitioner and the founder of fit4acause, a donation-only fitness and wellness program raising funds and awareness for cancer survivors. Copies of the book will be available for purchase during the event. Visit gibsonsbookstore.com.

• Brews and chilis: Tickets are on sale now for the Powder Keg Beer & Chili Festival, which returns to Swasey Parkway in Exeter on Saturday, Oct. 1, with two sessions, from noon to 2 p.m. and from 3 to 5 p.m. The event is presented by the Exeter Area Chamber of Commerce and the Exeter Parks and Recreation department, featuring hundreds of different beers, ciders and hard seltzers to taste from a variety of local vendors. Chili samples are also back this year for the first time since 2019. General admission tickets are $35 in advance and $45 at the door, and include a compostable tasting cup, access to unlimited beer and chili samples and live entertainment. Designated driver tickets are $10 in advance and $15 at the door. Visit powderkegbeerfest.com.• Greek night out: Join St. Philip Greek Orthodox Church (500 W. Hollis St., Nashua) for its annual Taverna Night on Saturday, Sept. 24, from 7 to 11 p.m. The event will include an evening of Greek appetizers, desserts, dancing and live music from the local band Ta Pethia. Admission is $35 for adults and $20 for attendees under 18. Visit stphilipnashua.com.

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