In the kitchen with Rylan Hill

Rylan Hill is the head chef of New Hampshire Pizza Co. (76 N. Main St., Concord, 333-2125, newhampshirepizzaco.com), which opened in downtown Concord in January. With the overall focus of highlightling locally produced ingredients, the full-service dine-in restaurant features brick-oven artisan pizzas as its centerpiece, along with house appetizers, salads, brunch items and desserts like homemade gelatos, ice creams and sorbets. It’s the latest venture of longtime Concord restaurateur Joel Harris of Dos Amigos Burritos — he opened that eatery’s first location in Portsmouth in 2003 before coming to the Capital City four years later. Hill, who grew up in Somersworth, worked stints at each of the Dos Amigos locations over the years prior to taking over the kitchen of New Hampshire Pizza Co., creating the entire menu and building relationships with local farms along the way.

What is your must-have kitchen item?

A chef’s knife. I believe I have about 15 knives now, ranging from utility and paring all the way up to a cleaver.

What would you have for your last meal?

That’s the hardest question ever. … I guess I would chalk it up to a hot tin roof sundae. Just your standard couple of scoops of ice cream, with hot fudge, whipped cream, walnuts and a cherry.

What is your favorite local restaurant?

Industry East in Manchester. I love that place. I’ve had a bunch of their flatbreads and whatever they’ve had on special a few times. Last time I went, I had a braised octopus tentacle and, man, that was good. … Lemon Thai, also in Manchester, is great. I think they have some of the best Thai food in New Hampshire.

What celebrity would you like to see eating at New Hampshire Pizza Co.?

I have three right off the top of my head. Anthony Bourdain, absolutely. Also I would say Jack Black, and then … I kind of consider these guys one unit, but the creators of South Park, Matt Stone and Trey Parker. … Those guys are geniuses.

What is your favorite thing on your menu?

The pan-fried pork chop, which uses the pork from Brookford Farm [in Canterbury]. … I made that one night for dinner, and then the next day I ended up going back to get more pork chops and doing it again for a second night because it was so good. So as an appetizer, that was something that I really wanted to bring on every day. … I would say that, and then I’m also a sucker for the margherita pizza.

What is the biggest food trend in New Hampshire right now?

Mini things, like mini cupcakes, doughnuts and stuff like that. … If I were to be broad, I would say just doughnuts, flat out. I’ve been noticing a lot more of the small doughnut shops opening and they’re doing all these crazy doughnut flavors.

What is your favorite thing to cook at home?

Anything breakfast, or ramen. Those are two things that you can do a thousand different ways.

Basil pesto
From the kitchen of Rylan Hill of New Hampshire Pizza Co. in Concord

¼ cup toasted pine nuts
2 bunches basil (approximately 4 cups), stems and all
½ cup grated Parmesan
1 cup grated pecorino
2 garlic cloves
1 Tablespoon lemon zest
2 Tablespoons lemon juice
2 teaspoons sea salt
1¼ cups extra virgin olive oil

In a medium saucepan, toast your pine nuts on low heat, stirring occasionally until golden. In a food processor, pulse your pine nuts, garlic cloves, lemon juice and lemon zest to a paste. Add half the amount of basil and sea salt, and ¼ cup of olive oil, pulsing until smooth. Add the remaining basil and pulse until smooth. Add the Parmesan and pecorino and blend on high, while slowly adding the rest of your olive oil. Once smooth and creamy, you can enjoy it right away.

Featured photo: Rylan Hill. Courtesy photo.

Sips, sweets and savory eats

Taste of the Region returns to Derry

After a successful outdoor event in 2021, the Greater Derry Londonderry Chamber of Commerce’s signature Taste of the Region is moving back inside the Tupelo Music Hall for the first time in three years. The event returns on Thursday, June 2, and will feature a variety of sweet and savory items from area restaurants, plus drink samples from breweries and wineries.

Several businesses, mostly from Derry and a few surrounding towns, offer samples to vie for your vote in at least one of three categories — “savory,” “sips” or “sweets.” Each vendor can opt to participate in one, two or all three of them, said Chamber president Ashley Haseltine.

“The vendors … are really excited to participate,” she said. “I think this event gives us a great opportunity to highlight the diversity in the region that’s available, and also just to spread the word that these restaurants are open and looking forward to reengaging with the community.”

Upon paying the entry fee, attendees will receive access to all of the food and drink samples that will be on display. This year’s participating vendors include a combination of returning and new faces to the local dining scene, in addition to some previous Taste of the Region champions. Destination India Bar & Restaurant, which opened its doors on East Broadway in early 2021, won last year’s “savory” category for its chicken tikka masala and mixed vegetable curry. They’ll be back this year, Haseltine said, along with Rig A Tony’s Italian Takeout, the winner of last year’s “sweets” category for its eclectic dessert spread of cookies, whoopie pies and more.

Other returning vendors will include Clam Haven, also owned by Rig A Tony’s founder Lisa DeSisto; Casa Java Cafe, which has in the past featured freshly baked cookies; and Rockingham Brewing Co. and Zorvino Vineyards, both of which have many of their own popular pours.

New participants include One Happy Clam, a food truck operated by former longtime Clam Haven owner and Derry native Rick Metts. He’ll be parked right outside the main entrance to the venue, Haseltine said. This will also be the first Taste of the Region for Messy Mike’s Barbecue, a food trailer and catering company known for its slow-smoked meats, fresh sides and house sauces.

During the tasting, attendees are invited to vote for their favorite item in each of the three categories. If you especially like what you try, most of the vendors will also be selling discounts on gift certificates and merchandise in addition to their provided samples.

Taste of the Region
When: Thursday, June 2, 5 to 7:30 p.m.
Where: Tupelo Music Hall, 10 A St., Derry
Cost: $35 admittance per person (includes full access to food and drink tastings; tickets are available both in advance online and at the door, with a portion of the proceeds to benefit the Kyle B. Ross Memorial Scholarship Fund)
Visit: gdlchamber.org
Masks are recommended but not required.

Participating food and beverage vendors
• Bellavance Beverage Co. (bellavancebev.com)
• Casa Java Cafe (casajavacafe.com)
• Clam Haven (clamhaven.com)
• Destination India Restaurant & Bar (destinationindianh.com)
• Messy Mike’s Barbecue & Catering (messymikesbbq.com)
• One Happy Clam Food Truck (find them on Facebook @onehappyclam)
• Rig A Tony’s Italian Takeout (rigatonysitalian.com)
• Rockingham Brewing Co. (rockinghambrewing.com)
• Windham Terrace Assisted Living (windhamterrace.com)
• Zorvino Vineyards (zorvino.com)
More vendors are expected to be confirmed soon.

Featured photo: Courtesy photo.

The Weekly Dish 22/05/26

News from the local food scene

Jewish feasts: Online ordering opens on Wednesday, June 1, for Temple B’Nai Israel’s 25th annual New Hampshire Jewish Food Festival, which is being held virtually once again this year. From June 1 to June 30, you can visit tbinh.org and order from the temple’s menu of traditional Jewish-style foods, most of which feature recipes that have been handed down multiple generations. Offerings will include sandwiches with corned beef, pastrami and tongue from Evan’s New York Style Deli in Marblehead, Mass., served on seeded and unseeded rye bread from Laconia Village Bakery. They’ll be available for individual orders as well as in custom deli sandwich “picnic packs” with coleslaw, pickles, deli mustard and rugelach. New this year are two Middle Eastern items — halva, a sweet treat available in vanilla, marble or pistachio flavors, and a homemade Israeli salad with chopped tomatoes, cucumbers and onions in a lemon dressing. Other options have included matzo ball soups, crispy potato latkes, New York-style knishes and hamantaschen (triangular-shaped filled cookies), available in three flavors. All online orders will be available for pickup by appointment at Temple B’Nai Israel (210 Court St., Laconia) between Friday, July 22, and Sunday, July 24. Visit tbinh.org.

May the best chowder win: Heading up north this Memorial Day weekend? You might want to check out Waterville Valley Resort’s 32nd annual Chowderfest, happening on Sunday, May 29, from noon to 2:30 p.m. at the Waterville Valley town square (33 Village Road, Waterville Valley). Several area restaurants will be vying for your palate to win the coveted title of best local chowder. A full schedule of live local music is also planned out on the town square’s gazebo. Chowderfest admission is $7.50 for adults and $5 for kids ages 12 and under — the fee covers samples of each participating chowder as well as a voting ballot. Visit waterville.com.

Making a difference: The Common Man restaurant group of New Hampshire has launched the Common Man Ukraine Relief Fund to benefit Ukrainian refugees and assist with relief efforts in Poland and surrounding countries. According to a press release, the fund has committed to matching up to $1 million in donations. Earlier this month, Common Man owner and founder Alex Ray also traveled overseas to meet with Polish and Ukrainian Rotary representatives and other agencies working to provide relief to Ukrainian refugees who are fleeing the ongoing war in their home country. According to the release, in partnership with Granite United Way, the Common Man has been part of a New Hampshire-based effort to bring relief to Ukraine. Most recently, they’ve begun offering their restaurants as collection sites for donations of critical supplies. Donations to the relief fund can be made online at thecman.com, or by texting CMAN4UKRAINE to 41444. One hundred percent of the donations will be directed to relief efforts in Ukraine, the release said.

On The Job – Shawn M. Nadeau

Shawn M. Nadeau

Wildlife and pest control operator

Shawn M. Nadeau is a certified wildlife and pest control operator and owner of New England Wildlife Control in Salem.

Explain your job and what it entails.

I do safe and humane rodent and wildlife removal. I remove wildlife and rodents and offer a more permanent solution than just baiting around your home or business. This alternative solution is called ‘exclusion.’This entails going around your home or commercial property, sealing all the necessary openings and essentially keeping the wildlife and rodents from reentering your structure. This also greatly reduces the homeowner’s need for yearly use of rodenticides.

How long have you had this job?

I have owned my own business since December 2021, but I have been in the wildlife and pest control industry for eight years, and I have been a carpenter since I was 18 years old.

What led you to this career field and your current job?

I answered an ad in the paper looking for someone who was not afraid of climbing a ladder, had carpentry experience and wanted to learn a new trade. Little did I know that I would be removing bats and raccoons from people’s homes.

What kind of education or training did you need?

I have my Massachusetts Problem Animal Control license, New Hampshire Wildlife Control Operators license, Maine Animal Damage Control license, Massachusetts applicators core license, Occupational Safety and Health Administration certification and advanced National Wildlife Control Operators Association certification.

What is your typical at-work uniform or attire?

Forest green polo and khaki pants or shorts.

How has your job changed over the course of the pandemic?

With the influx of people working from home during the pandemic, our field got increasingly busier due to people being at home when they typically would not have been. This led to more noises and activity being noticed by homeowners. While we were not able to perform interior home inspections, we had to think outside of the box and have homeowners use applications such as Zoom to positively identify their specific issue.

What do you wish you had known at the beginning of your career?

I would say how much I enjoy meeting people and listening to them.

What do you wish other people knew about your job?

That I am not ‘the bug guy,’ and that I specifically deal with animals and rodents.

What was the first job you ever had?

I worked at Lake Street Garden Center in Salem, New Hampshire.

What is the best piece of work-related advice you have ever received?

Pay attention to detail or you will have a callback. Also, let your customers talk; they will tell you everything.

Five favorites

Favorite book:
Self-help books and Being Peace
Favorite movie: Forrest Gump
Favorite music: Everything. I play bass.
Favorite food: Steak bombs and Chinese food
Favorite thing about NH: What’s not to love?

Featured photo: Shawn M. Nadeau. Courtesy photo.

Kiddie Pool 22/05/26

Family fun for the weekend

Under the sea, on stage

• The Palace Youth Theatre will presentThe Little Mermaid Jr.on Thursday, May 26, at 7 p.m. at the Palace Theatre (80 Hanover St. in Manchester; palacetheatre.org, 668-5588). Tickets cost $12 to $15 for the show, which features performers in grades 2 through 12.

The cold never bothered her

Also at the Palace Theatre (80 Hanover St. in Manchester; palacetheatre.org, 668-5588) this week, Dimensions in Dance Presents The Snow Queenon Saturday, May 28, at 11 a.m. and 3 p.m. “The story of the Snow Queen is told through dance … ballet, jazz, modern, tap, hip-hop, acro, pointe and lyrical,” according to the Palace website. Tickets cost $25 for adults, $20 for kids.

Museum fun

• Thursday, May 26, is the final World Culture Thursday on the schedule at the Children’s Museum of New Hampshire (6 Washington St. in Dover; childrens-museum.org, 742-2022). At 10 a.m. during the morning play session (9 a.m. to noon) and at 2 p.m. during the afternoon play session (1 to 4 p.m.) the World Culture event features a craft, game or other activity celebrating a different culture. The sessions are part of regular admission, which costs $11 for everyone over 1 year old ($9 for 65+). Reserve an admission spot online before heading out. The Children’s Museum is closed Mondays and is open Wednesdays through Saturdays for morning and afternoon sessions and Tuesdays and Sundays for morning sessions only.

Nature on land, nature on water

Squam Lakes Natural Science Center (23 Science Center Road in Holderness; nhnature.org, 968-7194) opened its public trails at the beginning of May (daily hours are 9:30 a.m. to 5 p.m. with last trail admission at 3:30 p.m.) and last weekend it started its Squam Lake Cruises, which are on the schedule daily at 1 p.m. The cruises are about 90 minutes long on a canopied pontoon boat and advance reservations are required. Cruises cost $27 for adults, $25 for 65+ and $23 for youth up to ages 15).

Prefer to stay on land? The three-quarters of a mile live animal exhibit trail features coyote, fisher, foxes, bobcats, black bear, river otters, deer, owls, raptors and more, according to the press release, which recommends planning a two-and-a-half-hour visit to walk the trail, which winds through meadows, forests and marsh boardwalks. Admission costs $22 for adults, $20 for ages 65+, $16 for ages 3 to 15, and is free for children 2 and under.

A walk into the past

Finding connection in the most unlikely of spaces

By Dan Szczesny
[email protected]

This column isn’t about hiking, but it is about taking a walk. It’s not about geography, but it is about history. It’s about a trail of life carved by people who came long before us here in southern New Hampshire and by the ancestors of our recent past.

Finally, it’s about a tower, and a rock.

Travel south on Interstate 93, through the area of Exit 3, and you may notice, amid all the pavement, new roads and chain stores, a tall tower in the middle of a cul-de-sac on a side road called Enterprise Drive off Route 111.

When the Interstate was built in the 1950s, few landscapes were changed as much as that area in Windham around Cobbetts Pond and Canobie Lake. Rolling farmland and dirt roads, along with the grandeur of Searles Castle, faded into history. But Route 111 used to be called Indian Rock Road for a reason, and that reason leads to our walk.

family portrait from the early 1900's
Al Letizio Jr.’s great-grandfather, Michel (seated), came to Windham from Italy and worked as a landscaper planting trees. Al’s grandfather, Alfred, is in the back in the black suit coat. Courtesy photo.

Today, the owner of that tower, Al Letizio Jr., the president and owner of the nearby sales and marketing firm that bears his name, is determined to honor both the turn-of-the-20th-century immigrants who built that part of southern New Hampshire and the First Peoples that lived, fished and farmed in the area.

“People and the past are too often forgotten to modern improvements,” Letizio said in a chat about his family and town. “I thought what I’d do here is take the opportunity — where this road is — and instead of having it be a dead-end street, to turn it into a central attraction to those who came before.”

When I visited Letizio’s tower, which he built and dedicated to his great-grandfather, Michel, we parked in the cul-de-sac and strolled back up Enterprise Drive to the other attraction Letizio wants to highlight. Tucked into a small wayside, just about a quarter mile from the tower, is a set of five enormous boulders called Indian Rock. According to the town history, the Pawtucket Nation used these rocks to grind corn. Grinding holes can still be found in the rocks. Back then, Cobbetts Pond could be seen from the rocks.

My daughter immediately identifies the tower as Rapunzel’s (she’s right, but more on that in a bit) and sets about naming the remaining four rocks. Clockwise from Indian Rock they are Cheese Rock, Pizza Rock, Mouse Rock and her favorite, Kitty Rock because that one looks like a cat head complete with two ears.

In 1933, the Town of Windham fastened a plaque to the front of Indian Rock that reads, “Over these rock-strewn hills and through these woods the Indians roamed on their hunt for game, on these waters their canoes were launched in their quest for fish, nearby fields yielded their harvest of corn and on this rock it was ground in to meal.”

To mirror that, Letizio bolted a plaque to the tower, to honor his own family — in particular, his great-grandfather Michel, who came from Italy and worked for Edward Francis Searles, the famous interior designer who built the castle that still stands on the other side of the highway.

“Back then, in the early days, New Hampshire was stripped, almost treeless,” Letizio said. “Windham was wide open. But Searles was a nature-lover and my great-grandfather’s main job was planting trees.”

Maybe even some of the trees that grace the area around Indian Rock.

Letizio has big plans for the area. He allows the curious to tour the tower, for example. Just stop by the sales building and ask during regular hours. And once up there, visitors will find an observation deck full of Rapunzel dolls! And even though the Indian Rock Wayside is land owned by the town, Letizio hopes to build a small parking lot nearby and construct some history signage for visitors. “This is foundational to me because there’s no way you can know where you’re going unless you know where you came from,” he said. “We should remember how we got our names, who came before us and their struggles and that some gifts we have in our life now came because of their struggles.”

That’s a simple message, of course, but built out of centuries of history. For me, as I watch my daughter crawl over the rocks of this tiny park, I remember that time and living are fluid out here, even amid the car exhaust and pavement. An ancient place of sustenance becomes an immigrant’s town of trees and finally a source of inspiration and delight for a little girl.

“There are micro stories woven into the fabric of the things that came before us,” Letizio said. “Our job is to tell our kids and grandchildren about it. That’s a gift we can give to the people who came before us.”

If You Go
Indian Rock and Letizio Tower
The quickest way to get there is to take Exit 3 off I-93, head west on Route 111, and then make a left on Enterprise Drive. Park in the cul-de-sac near the tower and walk back up the road about ¼ mile to Indian Rock Wayside on your right. If you’re there during regular working hours, stop in at the sales and marketing office and see if you might get a tour of the tower.

Featured photo: The author’s daughter sits on Indian Rock, just up the road from Letizio Tower.

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