The many faces of chardonnay

Not all of these wines are buttery and oaky

“ABC: anything but chardonnay!” We have all heard it — a wine that is either loved or hated. But offer someone a glass of Champagne, and you get an entirely different response!

Grown in many different countries, the chardonnay grape may be considered the world’s most popular variety and perhaps the best and most versatile in terms of the array of wine produced. This grape produces a full-bodied, dry white wine, but its flavor varies dramatically from crisp and steely to intense and tropical, depending on where it is planted, and the wine-making techniques employed. The most intensely flavored examples come from California, Chile and Australia. In France, it is the main ingredient in the production of Champagne, and just south of the Champagne region, it becomes white Burgundy. France is known for Chablis, Meursault and Pouilly-Fuissé; in Austria, we find Morillon. It can be fermented briefly in stainless steel, oak and even in amphorae (clay, or concrete containers). In its various forms from still to bubbly, alone or paired to food it is consumed cooled, but not so cold as to lose its flavor. And, never ever with an ice cube unless it is poured into a punch!

Our first wine is a 2017 Silverado Chardonnay (originally priced at $34.99 and on sale at the New Hampshire Liquor & Wine Outlet at $19.99), an estate grown chardonnay from Los Carneros, a region just north of the San Pablo Bay that straddles Napa and Sonoma counties. The Carneros region benefits from hot days and cool nighttime breezes from the bay, producing this wine, a blend from two vineyards, that has complex citrus and tropical notes, along with apple and melon. The wine has a straw-yellow shade and is noted by the winery as 88 percent barrel-fermented in French oak and stainless steel before blending. This is a wine to be sipped or paired with chicken or fish.

Our second wine is from vineyards that are planted at 4,000+ feet high elevations in New Mexico. Gruet Blanc de Blancs Brut Nature (originally priced at $29.99 and on sale at the New Hampshire Liquor & Wine Outlet at $14.99) is a sparkling wine produced in the Méthode Champenoise manner, that is the same as how Champagne is made in France, a labor-intensive operation of double fermentation. Beyond the wonderful effervescence, the result is a wine that is completely opposite from the chardonnay discussed above. The color is the slightest of pale-yellow straw. To the nose it has notes of yeast, lemon and sweet toast. Across the tongue it is full with green apples and lemon zest. It pairs well with the fattiness of lobster and can double as a dessert wine.

Our next two wines are from France. The Maison Louis Latour 2018 Pouilly-Fuissé (originally priced at $24.99 and on sale at the New Hampshire Liquor & Wine Outlet at $20.99) is a Grand Vin de Bourgogne hailing from the south of Burgundy. Pouilly-Fuissé is the name of a village in the Mâconnais region producing this highly distinctive chardonnay borne from its limestone and clay fields. It has a green-gold color with aromas of melons and pears with the slightest hint of almonds. To the mouth it is full with dried apples along with a crisp acidity to the finish. This wine will pair well with shellfish and would do well alongside a charcuterie board.

The 2018 Domaine Séguinot-Bordet Chablis (originally priced at $29.99 and on sale at the New Hampshire Liquor & Wine Outlet at $26.99) is also a chardonnay, but from the Loire Valley in Burgundy, a region where the soils are chalky limestone and full of seashell fossils. These soils impart a minerality not found in the other chardonnays. The climate and the unique soils of this region produces a wine that cannot be produced anywhere else. Its color is yellow gold with a hint of green. The nose is bright and with citric and floral notes which carries through to the mouth. It has a refreshingly unique presence!

Thus, the chardonnay grape above many other grapes proves to be incredibly versatile and nothing short of a chameleon depending on where it is grown or how the winemaker uses it to produce a wide palette of flavors to tease our senses.

Featured photo: Courtesy photos

Drinks with John Fladd: The Paisley Jane

The Paisley Jane

At the risk of oversharing, it seems like when it comes to decision-making I have two settings: overthinking or not thinking at all.

Throughout my life, a series of exasperated parents, bemused drill sergeants and my long-suffering wife have asked me, in varying degrees of anxiety, “What were you THINKING!?” To which, I only have one answer: “Uhhh… what?”

And then, there’s the other extreme.

Sometimes, without warning, I will fall down a rabbit hole of obsession, hyper-focusing on some objectively trivial matter. Last week, after watching a movie where one of the characters had to go on the run and retrieved a “go bag,” I spent hours thinking about what would go in my go bag, how much of what currency should go in it, and how I could inconspicuously buy everything I needed with untraceable cash. Never mind that I would probably never need to flee anywhere, or that I’m too fundamentally lazy and timid to do it if I had to; the fact remains that I spent hours working out an elaborate escape plan. (The secret is to include a Flowbee in the bag, so I can shave my head in a convenience store bathroom, then grow a beard, to blend in with all the other aging hipsters.)

And then, there’s the orgeat. Orgeat (supposedly pronounced “Oor-Jot”) is an almond syrup that is used a lot in tropical drinks to add depth and a sweet fruitiness to the background flavor. I’m mostly alone in this, but I think it tastes a bit like maraschino cherries. People with a more sophisticated palate than mine get very particular about their orgeat, saying that the cheap stuff tastes “artificial.” (I kind of like “artificial”, but they do have a point. The more chi-chi stuff definitely tastes more sophisticated.)

Some people will even go so far as to make their own orgeat.

[There… Right there… Did you hear it? The ominous music in the soundtrack as I start to overthink things?]

I was reading recipes for homemade orgeat — some simple, others much more complex and involved — when I started to wonder about making it from pistachios, rather than almonds. This led to more research than I can really justify, and several trips to the store, for ever-larger amounts of raw pistachios.

In the end, here’s what I came up with:

Pistachio Orgeat
Equal parts, by volume:
• sugar
• water
• raw, shelled pistachios

1. Chop the pistachios in a blender
2. Boil the sugar and water together to make a simple syrup
3. Steep the pistachio crumbs in the syrup for several hours
4. Strain the pistachio solids out, then squeeze

The Paisley Jane
• 2 slices of cucumber
• ½ oz. unsweetened pomegranate or cranberry juice
• 1½ oz. vodka
• 1½ oz. pistachio orgeat
• ½ oz. full fat plain yogurt
• Exactly 3 drops rose water (seriously – no more, no less. Trust me on this.)
• A pinch of sumac powder for garnish (Not optional. See below.)

1. Place the cucumber slices at the bottom of a cocktail shaker, then top them with ice. If you do it this way, you don’t have to muddle or bruise the cucumber. The ice will do it for you.
2. Add all the other ingredients except the sumac.
3. Shake vigorously for longer than you think you actually need to. Remember that you are throwing down a beating on the cucumbers.
4. Strain over ice into a rocks glass or an Old Fashioned glass.
5. Top with a generous pinch of sumac.

A note on sumac: Sumac is a Middle Eastern spice that has a distinct, sour, astringent note to it. It is one of the garnishes called for in the original Hazy Jane recipe. Without it, this pistachio version is missing something. You can buy sumac at any Middle Eastern grocery store or online.
You have to be somewhat obsessive to try this, but the good news is that you won’t have to drastically change your appearance.

Featured photo: Paisley Jane. Photo by John Fladd.

In the kitchen with Dave Mielke

Dave Mielke of Amherst and his father Harold opened Smokehaus Barbecue (278 Route 101, Amherst, 249-5734, smokehausbbq.com) together in May 2018. The duo joined forces late the year before, completely rebuilding and redesigning the inside of the former Burger Mill restaurant on Route 101 themselves to give it its rustic look. Smokehaus is open six days a week for lunch and dinner, offering a menu of low-and-slow smoked meats available as sandwich or dinner plate options, from beef brisket and baby back ribs to pulled pork and pulled chicken, as well as fresh sides like collard greens, baked beans and coleslaw, and all types of house-made dry rubs and sauces. The eatery also carries regular offerings from several local craft breweries.

What is your must-have kitchen item?

An immersion blender. We make a lot of sauce with it. We probably make around 25 gallons of barbecue sauce a week, so it gets used quite often.

What would you have for your last meal?

My last meal would be schnitzel and German potato salad. My mom makes that for me every year for my birthday.

What is your favorite local restaurant?

Papa Joe’s Humble Kitchen [in Milford]. Those guys are great. In my opinion, they’ve got the best burgers in the entire state.

What celebrity would you like to see eating at your restaurant?

Adam Sandler. If he was in town, I would be absolutely happy with my life at that point. He seems like a down-to-earth guy, plus he’s local.

What is your favorite thing on your menu?

That would be the fatty brisket. We’re one of the few barbecue places that has fatty and lean brisket. You can get it as a sandwich or a plate. My two sides of choice would be the collard greens, which are my mother-in-law’s recipe, and the coleslaw.

What is the biggest food trend in New Hampshire right now?

I really see sustainability itself as a trend. A lot of places opening up are utilizing local farms as much as they can. People are really starting to see how important it is to help our local businesses thrive.

What is your favorite thing to cook at home?

I make a really excellent pho. My son loves it with Vietnamese meatballs.

Sweet bourbon barbecue sauce
From the kitchen of Dave Mielke of Smokehaus Barbecue in Amherst (quantities are for large batches; cut measurements down in half for smaller batches)

8 cans Murphy’s stout
3 cups bourbon
16 cups ketchup
½ cup onion powder
½ cup garlic powder
½ cup red pepper flakes
4 cups brown sugar
1 cup molasses

Combine all ingredients in a large pot. While stirring, bring to a boil until all alcohol is cooked out (roughly 45 minutes). Let cool and enjoy.

Featured Photo: Dave Mielke of Smokehaus Barbecue in Amherst, with his dad, Harold. Photo by Matt Ingersoll.

Tastes of home

Copper Kettle To Go opens in Wilton

Chris and Megan Gordon really want you to feel at home inside their new Wilton cafe — they’ve even added their own kitchen table to the main dining space. But Copper Kettle To Go in Wilton, which quietly opened its doors on Sept. 17, is more than just a cafe. It’s also a grocery shop offering take-and-bake meals and a downstairs taphouse featuring a rotation of local brews.

Even though much of their preparation for the new cafe has taken place amid the pandemic, Chris Gordon said he and his wife, who previously owned the Copper Kettle Bakery in Brookline, have taken it in stride. After all, their mission from the beginning was to bring families back together around the dinner table at home with their offerings, which include pastas and sauces, fresh baked goods, spinach pie and other comfort meals.

“We wanted to bring something to the community here that we knew we were missing,” he said. “It’s difficult to find fresh vegetables that are already prepared and food that’s cooked in heartier meals, or just basic things like a nice homemade spaghetti sauce. … I think that one of the things with Covid that’s actually been almost a positive thing for us was that it taught people that our business model can exist and that it can be strong.”

If you’re visiting the space, which is directly across from the Wilton Town Hall Theatre on Main Street, just to shop, you don’t have to leave the upstairs level of the cafe. There are several designated areas across the space, including for raw meats, fresh produce, and seasonings and spices. A refrigerated case is stocked with prepared dinners in 8×8 or 13×9-sized pans (including comfort items like macaroni and cheese and chicken pot pie), plus dairy products like butter and cream and a small selection of canned beers. Across the room, a pantry section features various nonperishables like boxed pastas and rice.

“The floor plan was designed in a free-flowing path, with signs above that categorize everything, sort of similar to a grocery store,” Gordon said.

But if you’re sitting down to enjoy a meal, there’s space for that too. Gordon said a few lunch and dinner menu items are available for diners of either the upstairs cafe or downstairs taphouse. They’ll likely change all the time, with a few constant offerings, like the Bennington Railrolls, named after the Milford-Bennington Railroad behind the building.

“They are steak and cheese egg rolls served with a garlic aioli, and they’ve been our leading seller,” he said. “Nearly every customer ordered them when they came in the first week.”

Other recent items have included loaded baked potato soup; shepherd’s pie; a grilled vegetable sandwich on a sub roll, served with summer squash, zucchini, peppers, onions and mayonnaise; a pulled pork sandwich on a sesame seed bun with barbecue sauce from Tim’s Drunken Sauces & Rubs; a BLT with hand-cut smoky bacon, lettuce and tomato, served on rye or white bread; and a pot belly burrito with cilantro lime rice, wrapped and smothered in enchilada sauce with cheese and house espinaca on top.

“We’ll roll something out all the time that’s new, fresh and exciting,” Gordon said. “We’re big-time foodies, and we love nothing more than to bring something new in. So you can expect the menu to change quite frequently.”

Visitors can also venture downstairs to the taphouse, which includes additional seating on wooden bar tables Gordon built himself. Eight taplines, many representing local breweries like Henniker Brewing Co., Laughing Crow Beer in Amherst, 603 Brewery in Londonderry, Concord Craft Brewing Co. and the Contoocook Cider Co., are expected to rotate periodically.

“We’ll definitely keep the juicier IPAs in here, and then maybe bring out some porters or stouts in the winter months and some more lighter stuff as we get warmer again, to really match the seasons,” Gordon said. “Just like our food menu, it will be a really free-flowing kind of thing.”

A door from the taphouse leads outside to a deck overlooking the Souhegan River. Gordon said both the taphouse and the deck are also available to rent for private events or functions.

Copper Kettle To Go
Where
: 39 Main St., Wilton
Hours: Wednesday, 11 a.m. to 7 p.m., and Thursday through Sunday, 11 a.m. to 9 p.m.
Visit: copperkettletogo.com

Featured photo: Loaded baked potato soup. Photo courtesy of Copper Kettle To Go.

Safely served

Drive-thru and to-go food festivals across New Hampshire

Despite the absence of traditional food festivals and fairs this year, organizers are reimagining events as drive-thru or to-go only in an effort to promote social distancing. Several of them will be taking place across southern New Hampshire over the next couple of weeks.

Though the Deerfield Fair was canceled back in June, there will be fair food available on the days it would have taken place. The Taste of the Fair, a pre-buy ticket only event, will be held on Friday, Oct. 2, Saturday, Oct. 3, and Sunday, Oct. 4.

According to Debora Wyman of the Deerfield Fair Association, attendees must reserve a blocked time on the hour in advance (the ticket page can be accessed through the fair’s website, deerfieldfair.com) and show up at the fairgrounds 15 minutes before. Times are between 11 a.m. and 9 p.m. on Friday and Saturday, and 11 a.m. and 6 p.m. on Sunday. The cost of admission is $5 per person and a maximum of 200 tickets per time block per day are being sold.

When you arrive at the fairgrounds, there will be signage and event staff directing you where to drive through and park. Several fair vendors selling items like fried dough, fried Oreos, cotton candy, fried pickles, pizza, french fries, sausages, caramel and candy apples, pretzels, and corn dogs will be set up along a designated section of the fairgrounds.

Masks are required and electronic payments are encouraged, as there will not be an ATM onsite. To prevent congregating, there will be no seating on the fairgrounds. Each group, Wyman said, has 45 minutes to purchase their food before leaving the fairgrounds to allow the next group to come in. All surfaces will be sanitized during the 15 minutes in between each allotted time block.

Dan Keough of Dan’s Fried Dough, a featured vendor at the Deerfield Fair for 45 years, said he approached the association with the idea for the event after experiencing success at similar festivals in Vermont and Massachusetts over the last few months.

“We’ve been doing the best we can to get a variety of food vendors,” he said.

Also happening this weekend, St. Philip Greek Orthodox Church in Nashua will host a two-day drive-thru event on Friday, Oct. 2, and Saturday, Oct. 3, from 11 a.m. to 6 p.m., offering a menu of homemade Greek items usually enjoyed during its annual festival in the spring, like baklava, spanakopita and stuffed grape leaves.

According to event volunteer Joyce Powell, the menu for this event has expanded to include spit-roasted lamb and pastichio (Greek lasagna), two options that weren’t available from the first drive-thru festival. Dinners are available for purchase, which come with Greek-style rice and green beans, and dessert options have been expanded to include koulourakia, or Greek butter cookies.

“We’ve also added a cookbook of recipes made by some of the women of the church, and some face masks that were handmade in Greece,” Powell said.

Advance ordering online is encouraged, but call-aheads will also be accepted on each day.

In Concord, Holy Trinity Greek Orthodox Church is hosting its next Greek meal to go next weekend. Orders must be placed by Oct. 7, with pickups at the church on Sunday, Oct. 11, from noon to 1 p.m. The meal will include a half Greek lemon-roasted chicken with rice pilaf, a salad and a dinner roll, for $15 per person. The church will also offer similar meals over the next several months, including on Nov. 8 (stuffed peppers), Dec. 13 (dolmathes, or stuffed grape leaves), Jan. 10 (pork souvlaki) and Feb. 7 (Greek meatballs).

Glendi, a long-running three-day Greek food festival in Manchester, was also canceled earlier this year, but St. George Greek Orthodox Cathedral members and volunteers are holding smaller food events. Following a “Gyro Day” drive-thru pickup event that was presented on Sept. 26, the church will hold a lamb shank dinner to go on Saturday, Oct. 17, from 4 to 7 p.m.

Orders must be placed by Oct. 11 by calling the church office — the dinner will include lamb shanks, rice and green beans for $20.

Upcoming drive-thru and to-go food festivals
The Deerfield Fair will host the Taste of the Fair on Friday, Oct. 2, and Saturday, Oct. 3, from 11 a.m. to 9 p.m., and Sunday, Oct. 4, from 11 a.m. to 6 p.m., on the Deerfield Fairgrounds (34 Stage Road). Advance tickets online are required — visit deerfieldfair.com to pick a designated time slot. Only 200 tickets will be sold per hour, per day, and masks are required.
Join St. Philip Greek Orthodox Church (500 W. Hollis St., Nashua) for its next pop-up drive-thru food festival on Friday, Oct. 2, and Saturday, Oct. 3, from 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. Pre-ordering in advance is required — items include lamb, pastichio, dolmathes, Greek meatballs and spanakopita, plus pastries and sweets like baklava and koulourakia. Visit nashuagreekfestival.com.
Holy Trinity Greek Orthodox Church (68 N. State St., Concord) is offering its next Greek dinner to-go on Sunday, Oct. 11, from noon to 1 p.m. (order by Oct. 7). All meals include a half Greek lemon-roasted chicken with rice pilaf, a salad and a dinner roll, for $15. Visit holytrinitynh.org.
St. George Greek Orthodox Cathedral (650 Hanover St., Manchester) will serve a drive-thru lamb shank dinner on Saturday, Oct. 17, from 4 to 7 p.m. (order by Oct. 11). Meals include lamb shank, rice and green beans, for $20. Visit stgeorgeglendi.com.

Featured Photo: Greek Food Festival in Nashua. Courtesy photo.

The Weekly Dish 20/10/01

News from the local food scene

Indian inspired: Chef Keith Sarasin of The Farmer’s Dinner, a series of farm-to-table dinners at New Hampshire farms, will host a live cooking class via Zoom on Sunday, Oct. 4, from 5 to 6 p.m. Participants will also learn the basics of Indian food during the class, as Sarasin, who learned to cook under an Indian chef for three years, walks through an easy recipe and talks about his own experiences. The cost is $29.99 per person and all virtual attendees will be emailed an ingredient list and video link in advance of the class. Visit thefarmersdinner.com.

Smoked to perfection: On Sept. 11, Michael “Messy Mike” Massiglia of the Derry-based Messy Mike’s Barbecue & Catering Co. launched a new 30-foot mobile food trailer that you can now find every Friday through Sunday in the parking lot of Rockingham Acres Greenhouse (161 Rockingham Road, Derry), from noon until he sells out. The menu includes various meats sold by the pound, sandwiches, sides and other specialty barbecue favorites. Massiglia has been barbecuing full-time since 2014, catering all kinds of events across New England like birthday parties, cookouts, weddings and corporate gatherings, always offering a menu heavy on smoked meats and fresh sides. He also makes his own bottled hot and regular barbecue sauces, which are available for sale online and on some local store shelves. Visit messymikesbarbecue.com or follow him on Facebook @messymikesbbq.

Cookie tour canceled: The Country Inns in the White Mountains has cancelled its 24th annual Inn to Inn Cookie and Candy Tour, which had been scheduled for Dec. 12 and Dec. 13, according to a press release. “Out of an abundance of caution for the safety of guests and the association’s innkeepers and staff, it became clear that the event might attract a crowd that would exceed safety limits determined by the state,” the release read. The tour, which originated as a holiday luncheon, has grown into one of the region’s largest holiday events and raised thousands of dollars for local nonprofits over the years. Dates for the event to return next year have already been set, for Dec. 11 and Dec. 12, 2021, according to the release. Visit countryinnsinthewhitemountains.com.

Granite State Distilling introduced: Sazerac of New Hampshire, a Londonderry bottling facility of distilled spirits, has changed its name to Granite State Distilling, according to a recent press release. The name change also comes with a new logo that was recently unveiled, featuring a sketch of an Appalachian mountaintop inside the shape of a circle, with two outlines of the state of New Hampshire on either side. The new sign was installed on the premises over the summer, according to the release, and all bottled products are expected to reflect the name change in the near future. One of the oldest family-owned private distillers, Sazerac has operations in nearly a dozen states, as well as global operations. Visit sazerac.com.

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