Tag: 220324

Pizza and beer

You can’t overstate the perfection of this pairing

After a quick glance at the beer menu at Cornerstone Artisanal Pizza & Craft Beer in Ogunquit, Maine, a couple weeks back, I ordered the Forklift Unicorn IPA by Stoneface Brewing Co.

The bartender-slash-server said “It’s good,” and while that might not have sounded like an overwhelmingly ringing endorsement, I can tell you that based on the complete interaction, it was, in fact, the equivalent of a five-star Yelp review.

With good reason, too. The New England IPA was delightfully juicy and hazy with big hop flavors, pronounced tropical fruit and citrus notes, but with what seemed like zero bitterness. Plus, it lacked the heft of many of today’s IPAs, which was great because I was about to eat a lot of pizza.

The beer was secondary on this particular occasion, however. My wife and I had somehow found a way to take a weekend away and Friday night was my night to pick dinner. After a traffic-filled drive, we were famished and craving more carbs and cheese than our bodies could actually handle. (Is there anything that gets you craving pizza and a beer like a frustrating car ride?)

As I said, the beer delivered on the server’s promise, and so did the pizza. We went with a barbecued pulled pork pizza and a sausage, pepper and mushroom pizza.

Sipping on a delicious beer and biting into a savory, cheesy, meaty satisfying slice of pizza may not be the height of luxury, but let me know if you can think of a better combination. There’s just something about it. I swear it’s good for your soul, if not for your gut. I’m craving it right now and it’s 10 a.m.

My grandmother is 90-something years old and she still will not eat pizza without having a beer. She gets it.

Now, the type of beer matters. You want to put a bit of thought into the pizza you’re eating when selecting a brew. A coffee porter probably wouldn’t have been a great pairing with the pizzas we chose that night. Something drier, like an Irish stout, probably would have been just fine with the earthiness of the mushrooms.

IPAs stand up to just about anything but they’re so intensely flavored themselves, they can overpower your palate while you’re eating, which is why I tend to stay away from big double IPAs when I’m eating. They just offer too much flavor and too much heft for my palate.

Pilsners, like the Alexandr by Schilling Beer Co. in Littleton or the Beer Hall Lager by 603 Brewery in Londonderry, are perfect for pairing up with pizza, as lighter, crisper brews provide a perfect counterpoint to the combination of chewy dough and rich cheese.

Sours — and I would suggest sticking with lighter varieties, like a Berliner weisse — also pack a tart counterpoint that can be very nice with a slice of pizza. That said, sours vary quite a bit, so again, you just need to think about flavor combinations when you’re ordering.

My wife enjoyed the Dichotomie Saison Inspired Cider by Austin Street Brewery and the beer’s fruity, funky flavor worked really well with the pulled pork pizza, which included a topping of crunchy, sweet coleslaw.

Saisons can be spicy, which makes them an interesting choice for pairing up with pizzas that have a little spice as well — think banana peppers and pepperoni.

I finished up my Forklift Unicorn and ordered an Irish red ale by Geaghan Brothers Pub & Craft Brewery out of Bangor, Maine, and I found the light body and flavorful malt a nice pairing with both of our pizzas.

The core message here: Be like my grandmother and don’t eat pizza without beer.

What’s in My Fridge
Guinness Draught Stout by Guinness & Co. (Dublin, Ireland) It was Saint Patrick’s Day last week after all, and of course Guinness is a fitting choice. There’s nothing quite like watching a Guinness cascade in the glass as you prepare to enjoy a meal of corned beef and cabbage. Dry and drinkable, Guinness is a perfect change of pace. Cheers.

Featured photo: Forklift Unicorn IPA by Stoneface Brewing Company. Courtesy photo.

Cheddar and chive scones

It is yet another week of baking, but this week has a different spin. These are savory scones. For the first 10 to 15 years that I made scones they were always sweet. Then my sweet tooth diminished, and I began to consider alternate fillings.

Even though they are savory, these scones still make a fabulous breakfast dish. Serve them alongside or even underneath the eggs that you are making for a weekend breakfast. Or you could serve them at dinner as a side with a bowl of soup or stew.

This recipe is pretty straightforward, especially if you got through last week’s sweet scone recipe. The ingredients shouldn’t need modification, except for the buttermilk, so I’ve left the same note at the foot of the recipe.

Here’s to a delicious, savory baked good that works at almost any time of day!

Cheddar and chive scones
Makes 8

2 cups all-purpose flour
1 Tablespoon granulated sugar
1 teaspoon baking powder
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
1/2 teaspoon salt
5 Tablespoons chilled, unsalted butter, diced
3/4 cup buttermilk*
1 large egg yolk
1/3 cup minced chives
1 3/4 + 1/2 cup shredded cheddar cheese
1 Tablespoon milk
Flaked sea salt

Preheat oven to 400 degrees.
Mix flour, sugar, baking powder, baking soda and salt in a large bowl.
Add butter.
Combine butter and dry ingredients using a pastry blender (or two forks) until butter is reduced to the size of grains of rice.
Whisk buttermilk and egg in a 2-cup liquid measuring cup or small bowl.
Add liquids to dry ingredients; mix until dough forms a ball.
Stir in chives and 1 3/4 cups cheese.
Place dough on a lightly floured surface and press into an 8-inch square.
Brush the top of the square with milk and sprinkle with remaining 1/2 cup cheese and a pinch of sea salt.
Cut into 16 squares.
Transfer squares to a parchment paper-lined, rimmed baking sheet.
Bake for 15 to 20 minutes or until the scones are crusty on top and a tester inserted into the center comes out clean.
Serve warm with butter for an extra treat.

*In lieu of buttermilk, you can combine 1 tablespoon lemon juice and enough milk (I’ve used both cow and almond milks with success) to equal 3/4 cup. Allow to sit for 5 minutes before using in the recipe.

Featured Photo: Cheddar and chive scones. Courtesy photo.

In the kitchen with Kaylon Sweet

Kaylon Sweet — known by many simply as “Sweets” — is the owner of Osteria Poggio (18 Main St., Center Harbor, 250-8007, osteriapoggio.com), a farm-to-table Italian eatery set inside the historic Coe House, which overlooks Lake Winnipesaukee. In late January, he also took over culinary operations of the Mak’n Ends Meat food truck (maknendsmeat.com, and on Facebook and Instagram @maknendsmeat) as part of a collaboration with its owners, the Osgood family of Birch Rise Farm in Sanbornton. Mak’n Ends Meat is unique for utilizing Birch Rise’s own farm-raised proteins on board the truck, giving Sweet the opportunity to dabble in all kinds of menu options, such as pork smash burgers, chicken tacos, ham and cheese “foldies,” and ramen burgers topped with a house Japanese-style barbecue sauce. One of Sweet’s first restaurant jobs was at Cookie’s Chuck Wagon in Hudson, a town where he lived for a few years as a teenager — since then, he has studied Italian cuisine abroad in Florence and, upon returning to the Granite State, has gone on to establish himself as a chef working closely with local farms in sourcing his ingredients. Locally, you can find Mak’n Ends Meat parked at Lithermans Limited Brewery (126B Hall St., Concord) on Friday, March 25, from 4 to 8 p.m. Sweet will then return to Lithermans for its six-year anniversary celebration on April 8 and April 9, and he’s also due to appear at Great North Aleworks (1050 Holt Ave., Manchester) on April 16.

What is your must-have kitchen item?

You’ve got to have a nice flat metal spatula and a towel. … I can make everything else work with those items.

What would you have for your last meal?

My mom makes these pork ribs with a barbecue sauce recipe that my grandmother gave her … [and] they always come out absolutely amazing. I’d want those one last time. She does a chocolate raspberry cheesecake too that I go nuts for. … Then I would also have our Caesar salad with our house hot sauce squirted into it, and some smoked Gouda mac and cheese with honey. It’s your last meal, so you’ve got to make it count, you know?

What is your favorite local restaurant?

The Thompson House Eatery up in Jackson is one. I have a buddy who owns it. He was just up for a [James] Beard [award] and he’s definitely earned it. … I’d also have to say The Wilder in Portsmouth. It’s always fantastic.

What celebrity would you like to see ordering from the truck?

[Chef] Mason Hereford from Turkey and the Wolf, which is a sandwich place in New Orleans. His claim to fame is a fried bologna sandwich. … He’s somebody that I follow religiously on all of the social media platforms. He’s very much a guy that is who he is … [and] I’d like to have him come through because I know I’d get an honest answer out of him.

What is your favorite thing on the truck’s menu?

I really like our pork smash burger. It’s a ground sausage-based burger that we just pound out and fry up. I like to do that with a fried egg, some bacon jam and chipotle aioli. … I’d have to say that the ham and cheese foldy is also something that I really like. It’s basically like a ham and cheese quesadilla, but the ham from Birch Rise Farm is what makes it. It’s an insanely good ham.

What is the biggest food trend in New Hampshire right now?

Tacos and Asian fusion, to be honest. … Every time I see some place trying to start their own thing, that’s where it seems to be that they are gravitating toward.

What is your favorite thing to cook at home?

Usually just a bagel, egg and cheese sandwich and then I’ll dip it in something. … I’ve also been playing around a lot lately with fried rice.

Ramen smash burgers
From the kitchen of Kaylon Sweet of Osteria Poggio and the Mak’n Ends Meat food truck (yields about three burgers)

3 Martin’s potato buns
¾ pound ground pork
1 teaspoon canola oil
2 Tablespoons water
1 bag instant ramen noodles
3 slices American cheese
Japanese barbecue sauce
Any additional toppings of choice (optional)

Heat up your ramen per instructions. Drain and set aside. Save the seasoning packet for the burgers. Heat up a nonstick pan and add canola oil. Divide ground pork into three equally sized balls and semi-flatten. Season with ramen seasoning packet and salt on one side. Place in the pan and leave to get a hard sear (according to Sweet, it should achieve a dark golden brown color, “like good maple syrup”). Season the uncooked side and flip. Smash burgers down and flatten. Add one slice of cheese to each patty. Cook through and set aside. Add ramen into the still hot pan. Add two tablespoons of water to release the sticky bits, then add the Japanese barbecue sauce. Once all of the noodles are coated, set aside and prepare to build. Put a patty on a bun, add ramen on top and place your top bun on. Add any other optional toppings — Sweet’s favorites to use are shredded lettuce, chipotle mayonnaise, pickled onions, pickled ginger and a fried egg.

For the Japanese barbecue sauce:
1 cup soy sauce
1 cup brown sugar
1 cup ketchup
3 Tablespoons rice wine vinegar
2 cloves garlic
¼ cup pickled ginger
¼ cup chopped scallions
1 ripe pear, with cores chopped

Place all ingredients into a blender and puree until smooth. Pour into a saucepan and cook on a low temperature until the mixture has reduced by a third. Cook and store in an airtight container.

Featured photo: Kaylon Sweet. Courtesy photo.

Soup’s on

Concord’s SouperFest returns

By Alexandra Colella

listings@hippopress.com

Food can always bring a community together, no matter the circumstances. The Concord Coalition to End Homelessness is partnering with local eateries once again for its annual SouperFest event, set for Saturday, March 26, from 1:30 to 4 p.m. at White Park in Concord.

Each year local restaurant owners donate a selection one of their soups to raise money for the Coalition, which aims to raise awareness about homelessness in the community through its many partnerships. The Coalition hopes to raise $50,000 with SouperFest and, if the weather is nice, feature a live performance from the New Orleans-influenced State Street Jazz Band.

brass band playing in park on sunny day
Photo courtesy of Mulberry Creek Imagery.

Eight Concord restaurants are participating in this year’s event, and the soup flavors are diverse, ranging from a mushroom beef and barley soup courtesy of Revival Kitchen & Bar to vegan and vegetarian chilis from Col’s Kitchen and Hermanos Cocina Mexicana, respectively. There’s also going to be a Hungarian mushroom soup provided by the Concord Food Co-op, and a lentil soup from The Works Bakery Cafe, among others.

“The soup selection … is awesome, and it will be wonderful to see friends and supporters again,” said Ellen Groh, executive director of the Concord Coalition to End Homelessness, “and, I must say, hearing the State Street Jazz Band makes for a great festive mood.”

Online orders can be made before the event. Advanced online ordering is a better option to secure the soup you want for the event. Weather permitting, soup lovers are invited to bring chairs to the park to watch the live band perform, or you can take your soup to go and enjoy at home. Anyone who orders online will be prompted to choose a designated pickup time during the event’s hours.

Previous SouperFest events have been held indoors, bringing together hundreds of attendees to enjoy several dozen locally made soups. The pandemic forced its cancellation in 2020, while last year’s event was the first in its history to make the transition outdoors to a mostly takeout format.

Event organizer Greg Lessard called SouperFest “a tremendous testament to the Concord community’s compassion, generosity and commitment” to ending homelessness in the city.

“This was evidenced when the call went out to local restaurants to ask them to donate soup,” he said. “Although over the past two years restaurants have had a challenging time, eight … immediately confirmed their commitment to the event.”

Of its $50,000 goal with the event, $40,000 has already been raised from local businesses. Soups may be available on the day of the event, but selections are expected to be limited.

SouperFest
When: Saturday, March 26, 1:30 to 4 p.m.
Where: White Park, 1 White St., Concord
Visit: concordhomeless.org/souperfest

Featured photo: Photo courtesy of Mulberry Creek Imagery.

Breaking bread

Woodman’s Artisan Bakery to open storefront in Nashua

Bill Woodman gained a following across the local farmers market scene for his European-style artisan breads, first selling in Salem in 2018 before branching out to six markets by the following summer. Nearly four years later, Woodman is expanding his startup bread business into a storefront, giving him his own permanent spot to bake as well as an opportunity to serve coffees, teas, sandwiches and grab-and-go pastries.

Woodman’s Artisan Bakery is due to open in the coming weeks on the corner of Amherst and Sunapee streets in North Nashua — it’s in the former spot of Great Harvest Bread Co., which has sat vacant since December 2019. Upon coming into the space, Woodman connected with former Great Harvest owner Jeremy St. Hilaire, who welcomed him to the neighborhood, shared his own experiences, and helped go over the basics of its unique multiton 48-pan oven.

Rows of salted pretzels from an artisan bakery
Photo courtesy of Woodman’s Artisan Bakery.

Woodman’s breads are 100 percent scratch-baked and range from various country ryes and sourdoughs to flavored options like a cranberry walnut and an Italian focaccia with Parmesan and rosemary. His product line also includes traditional French butter croissants and pain au chocolat pastries, as well as soft blueberry scones and lightly salted German-style pretzels.

A Manchester native, Woodman attended Springfield College in Massachusetts before transferring to Southern New Hampshire University to study culinary arts. From there, he would hold multiple kitchen jobs over the years, and it was while as a cook at the RiverMead, a retirement home in Peterborough, that he got the opportunity to attend bread baking intensive courses at King Arthur Flour in Vermont, thanks to an educational reimbursement program.

“I had always had an interest in breads, but no one ever knew much to teach me about them,” he said. “I did the program at King Arthur, came back to the retirement home and then was doing fresh bread for them every day. … People were going crazy about it to the point where we ended up setting up a sale with three or four different types of bread. So that went over very, very well.”

In May 2018, Woodman applied to become a vendor at the Salem Farmers Market. Dave Hippert, a longtime friend of his who owns Sal’s Pizza in Hooksett, agreed to let him use his oven after hours, where he currently bakes his breads and pastries.

“He closes down at the end of his day, so 9 or 10 o’clock at night, and then I go in, mix up my doughs and bake throughout the night into the mornings. Then from the morning to the afternoon I go out to the markets and sell my bread off,” he said. “So without him, none of this would’ve been possible, especially just with the volume that I’m able to pull out of there.”

As a result, nearly all of his items at the market have only just been out of the oven hours earlier.

“That’s one of those things that makes a big, big difference is that quality and freshness,” he said.

croissants laid out on a cooling rack
Photo courtesy of Woodman’s Artisan Bakery.

Once his Nashua storefront opens, Woodman will leave the kitchen at Sal’s, but he still plans to attend a few farmers markets per week. Currently he’s in Concord on Saturdays and Salem on Sundays, and he’ll pick up a third market in Bedford on Tuesdays when it resumes in June.

In addition to Great Harvest’s oven, Woodman has an electric Bongard deck oven from Germany he purchased a few years ago through a mutual connection with a Portsmouth chef.

“It’s kind of like your Lamborghini of ovens, so to speak,” he said. “Anything that’s got a real nice crust and a chewy crumb is going to come out of there, because you get that steam injection. … You get a little bit of water, which keeps the dough pliable enough so that it grows and expands properly, but then when it starts evaporating off, you start basically caramelizing the sugars on the surface of that dough, and it gives you that color and crispiness that you want.”

Woodman plans to get into baking ciabattas and baguettes, breads he said he hasn’t regularly done in a few years. He’ll also be able to produce all of his other artisan breads on an even larger scale than before, thanks to his newfound 24/7 access. One of his flagship products is called the “Yukon Dave” sourdough — it’s named after a farmers market customer who gifted him a sourdough starter that originated in Alaska sometime in the 1960s.

On the retail side, Woodman will have a display case featuring grab-and-go pastries as well as drip coffee sourced from A&E, a USDA-certified organic roaster. Eventually, he said, he’d like to add cappuccinos and lattes and plans to offer pizzas, sandwiches and other lunch items.

Woodman’s Artisan Bakery
An opening date is expected in the coming weeks for the bakery’s storefront. In the meantime, find owner and bread maker Bill Woodman at the Downtown Concord Winter Farmers Market (7 Eagle Square, Concord) on Saturdays from 9 a.m. to noon, and at the Salem Farmers Market (LaBelle Winery Derry, 14 Route 111, Derry) on Sundays from 10 a.m. to 1 p.m.
Where: 4 Sunapee St., Nashua
Hours: TBA
More info: Visit woodmansartisanbakery.com, or find them on Facebook @woodmansartisanbakery and Instagram @woodmans.artisan.bakery

Featured photo: Photos courtesy of Woodman’s Artisan Bakery.

The Weekly Dish 22/03/24

News from the local food scene

• Maple madness: There’s still time to go tour a local sugarhouse for New Hampshire Maple Month, which will hold its final weekend on Saturday, March 26, and Sunday, March 27. Visit the New Hampshire Maple Producers Association’s online directory at nhmapleproducers.com for a list of participating farms and sugarhouses. Even though Maple Weekend was last weekend, several maple producers across the state are continuing to welcome visitors for sugaring tours, samples and gift shop product sales. You can also check out our coverage of Maple Weekend in the Hippo’s March 17 issue, which begins on page 10 and includes recipes and details about this season’s syrup production. Visit issuu.com/hippopress to read the e-edition for free.

• Heirloom feasts: Join the Concord Garden Club in welcoming Ellen Ecker Ogden, author of The New Heirloom Garden, for a virtual event on Saturday, March 26, at 1 p.m., in partnership with Gibson’s Bookstore. Ogden will talk about her book and discuss the essentials of how to prepare, plant and maintain an heirloom food garden. Released in early 2021, The New Heirloom Garden is filled with tips on how to grow various heirloom vegetables, herbs and flowers, and includes 55 recipes for everything from entrees and sides to desserts, drinks and more. Registration is free but required to receive a link to the Zoom webinar. Donations are accepted through Eventbrite, with proceeds split between Gibson’s Bookstore and the Concord Garden Club, and copies of Ogden’s book are also available for sale. Visit gibsonsbookstore.com.

• PoutineFest is back: After a successful event in 2021, the New Hampshire PoutineFest is returning to Anheuser-Busch Tour Center & Biergarten (221 Daniel Webster Hwy., Merrimack) on Saturday, Oct. 15, according to a recent announcement on its website and social media channels. Since 2016, the annual festival has brought together local and regional restaurants, food trucks and other vendors to compete for the best poutine dish as voted by attendees. It had traditionally been held in the summer, but the response to last year’s festival from both vendors and poutine lovers alike has prompted organizers with the Franco-American Centre to make a permanent shift to October. Details on ticket sales are expected soon. Visit nhpoutinefest.com.

• Mile Away to return: After previously announcing late last year that it would close its kitchen space in January, Milford’s Mile Away Restaurant will now be reopening on April 6, according to a message recently posted on its website. Reservations will be required going forward, due to limited staffing, the message reads in part. Additionally, public events with set menus are being planned for every Saturday and Sunday in April, during which Mile Away’s regular dinner menu will not be available. The eatery will also be open for Easter — reservations are being accepted now for special meals that will include an appetizer, a salad, an entree and a dessert. According to its website, Mile Away is in a historic spot in town — the site of one of the earliest settlements in New England in the 18th century. Visit mileawayrestaurantnh.com.

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