Tag: 220331

Pink for spring

Lighten up with some rosés

It’s official! Spring is here! It happened at 11:33 a.m., March 20. Mother Nature may not be able to make up her mind as one day the temps rise into the 50s and the next day temps barely rise to the 30s. But spring is a mindset. It is more than the promise of longer days. It is a time of rebirth. It is the time to change from dark, luscious, chewy reds to wines that reflect our wanting to shed the wrappings and trappings of winter and embrace something new and light. It is the time to visit the garden to see what is popping through the last vestiges of winter. Spring is the time to try this year’s offering of rosé wines.

Our first wine is a 2020 Fleur de Mer Rosé (originally priced at $21.99 at the New Hampshire Liquor & Wine Outlets, and on sale with a price of $16.99). It has a brilliant coral pink color and is a medium-bodied wine that evokes aromas and flavors of subtle citrus, lavender and Mediterranean herbs. It is fresh and elegant with a soft texture and mineral finish that is balanced with refreshing acidity. Fleur de Mer means “Flower of the Sea,” and the wine brings to mind the region’s famed fields of flowers and vines that bask in the warm summer sun. Côtes de Provence is an extensive appellation that includes vineyards of the greater Provence region and extends east all the way to the Italian border. Its sites vary from subalpine hills, receiving the cooling effects of the mountains to the north, to the coastal warm Mediterranean of St-Tropez. This wine is a superior rosé, made from high-quality 43 percent grenache, 23 percent cinsault, 12 percent carignan, 7 percent mourvedre grapes, and 15 percent selected other varieties. It can be sipped with hors d’oeuvres of soft cheeses and berries or paired with fish or chicken.

Our second wine is a 2019 Tasca D’Almerita Regaleali Terre Siciliane Rosé (originally priced at $16.99 at the New Hampshire Liquor & Wine Outlets, and on sale with a price of $7.99). Located in the mountainous heart of inland Sicily, Tenuta Regaleali is a vast estate owned and operated by the Tasca d’Almerita family since 1837. Almost 1,000 acres of vineyards thrive between 1,300 and 3,000 feet above sea level. Soils vary from vineyard to vineyard, creating a mosaic of geologic compositions. The microclimate here boasts excellent light and temperatures of hot days and cool nights. Wine Enthusiast named Tasca d’Almerita the 2019 European winery of the year.

Produced from nerello mascalese grapes, grown almost exclusively on the side slopes of Mount Etna, that give Le Rose di Regaleali its class and elegant fragrance and its deep salmon-pink color, this wine offers delicate aromas of cherry, raspberry, blackberry and, appropriate to its name, rose petals. Rich on the palate with refreshing acidity and a long, flavorful finish, it is perfect for pairing to tuna, salmon, poultry, pork and flavorful pasta dishes. This wine is universally food-friendly.

Our third wine is just plain fun! The IGP Pays d’Oc Rosé All Day has us returning to the south of France, but this time we go to the Languedoc-Roussillon region, west of Provence. A quick interpretation of the label: IGP (Indication Géographique Protégée) places this wine between table and superior wines. D’Oc, or the Languedoc-Roussillon region, shares many of the terrain and climate characteristics with the neighboring regions of Southern Rhone and Provence, but at a far greater value. A top trending wine hashtag, #RoséAllDay has become a social media phenomenon with hundreds of thousands of rosé lovers sharing their excitement for the wine by posting pictures emulating a trendy, chic lifestyle. Made from grenache grapes, this wine has the nose of watermelon and strawberry, with crisp, fresh notes on the palate, and a long fruity finish. Pair this with fish, chicken and sushi, or salads and appetizers, but always enjoy it with friends! It’s also available in cans for those warm, sunny afternoon picnics.

So succumb to the allure of spring fever, catch a bit of sunshine, and go out and “smell the rosés.”

A cocktail forged in the heart of a suburban kitchen

I blame Forged In Fire.

Granted, I’ve always had a weakness for television competition shows where people make things and are nice to each other — The Great British Bake-Off obviously, and its ceramic counterpart, The Great Pottery Throw-Down. And it goes without saying that I’m a fan of Making It, Amy Poehler and Nick Offerman’s crafting show.

OK, yes. Also, the glass-blowing one.

And the science fiction makeup one.

And — I think you get the idea.

Anyway Forged In Fire is sort of like Chopped for metal-smiths. Brawny men with hammers are given a ridiculous piece of metal — a box of random tools from a flea market, a cement mixer, half a bicycle — and a few hours to forge it into a knife, a sword, or maybe a ninja assassination weapon. The judges then put the weapons through insane challenges like hacking through a castle drawbridge, or elk antlers, or ballistic gel dummies, and everyone hopes they don’t shatter. It’s crazy.

A little like inventing new cocktails each week.

After I wrote a few weeks ago that I was out of bourbon, several very generous people have given me bottles of bourbon.

(I would like to take this opportunity to announce that I also do not have an apartment above a used book shop, around the corner from a Manhattan jazz club.) (As long as I’m wishing, Minnie Driver would be the bartender.)

Given my new wealth of bourbon, it made sense to find a recipe to use it in. I found a bourbon-based punch that I like the sound of, but it has two significant drawbacks: (1) It’s called a Tomahawk Punch, which seems problematic; and (2) I’m something of a connoisseur of bad decisions, and the idea of making a gallon of this stuff brings on a familiar and dangerously comfortable feeling.

This needs to be reconfigured, much like the engine block from a ’72 Matador that I’m supposed to turn into a set of X-Acto knives.

The original recipe calls for a fairly pricey ancho chile liqueur — which I’ve replaced with Fresno-infused rum — and sparkling cider, which I think would be a little more sweet than I’m looking for, so I’ve replaced it with an aggressively bubbly club soda.

Suburban Anvil

  • 2 ounces bourbon — Right now, I like Wiggly Bridge, a solidly dependable label. I’ve been a fan of their gin, and their bourbon has not let me down.
  • ¾ ounce Fresno-infused rum — see below
  • 1 ounce fresh-squeezed lime juice
  • 1 ounce honey syrup
  • 1½ ounce Topo Chico mineral water
  • Fresh grated nutmeg and cinnamon, for garnish

Shake bourbon, rum, lime juice and syrup over ice.

Pour mixture, with ice, into a Collins glass.

Top with mineral water and stir gently.

Garnish with a pinch each of fresh-grated nutmeg and cinnamon.

This punch is definitely bourbon-forward, but it is the lime juice that takes the starring role. This starts out tasting fruity, but the spices — the nutmeg especially — take things in an unexpected direction. The bubbles keep it light, and you are left with a hint of heat from the Fresno rum.

You can’t reliably count on porch weather quite yet, but if we have a sunny afternoon this week, you could do worse than knocking off work early and wrapping yourself around a couple of these.

Fresno-infused rum

I’ve gone on about this before, at length, but lacking a dependable supply of spicy, flavorful jalapeños, your best bet for a pepper to infuse into alcohol is bright red Fresno chiles.

Roughly chop three-four Fresno chiles and add them to a quart-sized jar.

Top the jar off, to an inch or two from the top, with a lower-shelf white or silver rum. The flavor of the Fresnos will blow out any delicate tasting notes from a more expensive rum.

Seal the jar and shake it. Store someplace cool and dark, shaking twice per day. Taste after four days, then every day thereafter, until it suits your taste. Strain and bottle.

Honey syrup

Bring equal amounts (by volume) of honey and water to a boil. Boil for 10 or 15 seconds to make sure that the honey is completely dissolved.

Cool and bottle. This will keep for about a month in your refrigerator.

Featured photo: Suburban Anvil. Photo by John Fladd.

Spinach and salsa egg white muffins

After five weeks of baked goods, it seems like a good time to switch to a healthier dish.

This week I have an utterly healthy recipe that can be used as a breakfast or brunch dish, as well as an afternoon snack. You also can make a batch of these egg white muffins in advance and store them in the refrigerator to be eaten later. They are perfectly fine when served cold but also can be quickly warmed in the microwave.

There are only three ingredients to this recipe. In fact, there is a good chance you already have all of them at home. Frozen spinach is key for keeping it simple; if you prefer to use fresh spinach, you should cook it before starting this recipe. For the egg whites, I prefer to use whole eggs and save the yolks for another recipe. If you want to use a container of egg whites, you need about two tablespoons per muffin cup. Finally, the salsa can be whatever degree of heat you prefer, but try not to use one that is too watery, as it will interfere with baking.

While it’s not included in this recipe, you absolutely could add a tablespoon or two of shredded cheese to each cup. However, these muffins are so tasty as is, the cheese really seems unnecessary.

As you will soon discover, healthy eating can be quite tasty!

Spinach and salsa egg white muffins
Makes 8

1 10-ounce package frozen spinach
8 large egg whites
1/2 cup salsa, divided
Salt & pepper

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.
Defrost spinach and squeeze out excess liquid.
Coat a muffin pan thoroughly with nonstick spray.
Divide spinach among 8 muffin cups.
Place one egg white in each cup.
Top with 1 tablespoon of salsa.
Season with salt and pepper.
Using a fork, mix spinach, egg white and salsa in each cup.
*If you are using a 12-cup muffin pan, place 1/4 cup water in each empty cup to ensure even baking.
Bake for 25 minutes or until the egg whites are fully set.

Featured Photo: Spinach and salsa egg white muffins. Courtesy photo.

In the kitchen with Paige Melanson

Paige Melanson is the owner of Crumb to Mama (find her on Instagram @crumbtomama), serving as the in-house baker for The Brothers’ Cortado (3 Bicentennial Square, Concord, 856-7924, brotherscortado.com). A Concord native, Melanson is a longtime family friend of the shop’s owners, having worked together with founder Chuck Nemiccolo at Starbucks nearly a decade ago. The Brothers’ Cortado opened in November, with Melanson joining the team in mid-February — currently you can find her there every Monday, Friday and Saturday, with a rotating offering of freshly baked treats like vegan strudels, gluten-free buttermilk blueberry muffins, apple loaves, protein egg bites and cinnamon rolls. The goal, Melanson said, is for her to eventually take over the kitchen space adjacent to the coffee shop full time.

What is your must-have kitchen item?

My bench scraper. It’s very versatile because it’s great for baking but also for cleanup.

What would you have for your last meal?

It would be a double smash patty on a brioche bun with extra pickles.

What is your favorite local restaurant?

One that I’ve been going to a lot more recently is Sun Shui in Bedford. … I love the dan dan noodles and the basil chicken.

What celebrity would you like to see trying something that you’ve baked?

Action Bronson [rapper Ariyan Arslani]. He’s a musician but also a trained chef. He loves good food and sharing it with people, so I’m a fan of [his] music and also a fan of his food.

What is your favorite baked treat that you offer?

I know the crowd favorite is the strudel, but [recently] I made these cheese Danishes with a triple berry jam. It’s a really awesome combination of a nice fluffy dough with a slightly sweet cheesecake filling and a really good homemade jam. I think I’m going to be trying to make it as often as I can and probably rotate out the flavor.

What is the biggest food trend in New Hampshire right now?

Those loaded Korean corn dogs. … The Hop and Grind over in Durham has them on their menu and I’ve been dying to get over there to try one because they look so good.

What is your favorite thing to cook at home?

My favorite meal to make is anything that I can just do totally from scratch. … I love having pasta nights, doing homemade pasta and some sort of sauce that you can just put a little effort into and let simmer for a while. … Vodka sauce is delicious, and it’s a nice quick one that you can make in about 20 minutes.

Homemade vodka pasta sauce
From the kitchen of Paige Melanson of Crumb to Mama

3 Tablespoons butter, divided
2 shallots, finely diced
3 cloves garlic, finely diced and grated
4 Tablespoons tomato paste
⅓ cup vodka
1 cup heavy cream

Saute shallots and garlic in one tablespoon of butter until soft. Add tomato paste and cook for two minutes while stirring. Add vodka and let simmer lightly for two minutes. Stir in cream and bring to a simmer. Add salt and pepper to taste, and stir in the last two tablespoons of butter. Toss in a half pound of cooked pasta of choice with ¼ cup of pasta cooking in water. Top with grated Parmesan cheese and fresh basil (optional).

Featured photo: Paige Melanson. Courtesy photo.

New Italian option

Bellissimo opens in former Fratello’s space in Nashua

Less than three weeks after Fratello’s Italian Grille closed its downtown Nashua restaurant, a new concept has already arrived in its place. Bellissimo Italian Steakhouse and Bar opens on March 31 and will feature a variety of steak, chicken and seafood entrees, pastas and wood-fired pizzas, plus rotating house cocktails and regular live entertainment.

Although some Fratello’s employees have remained on staff during the eatery’s transition, Bellissimo — named for the Italian word meaning “beautiful” — is under new management from its predecessor. It’s the latest venture of Jason Fiore Sr., David Raptis and Justin Hoang, co-owners and partners of a local restaurant group that also includes Luk’s Bar & Grill in Hudson and Joey’s Diner and The Black Forest Cafe & Bakery, both in Amherst.

With the exception of only a few options, Bellissimo’s dinner menu is almost entirely brand new for the space, said Hoang, a Nashua native who is the group’s executive chef.

Filet Oscar. Courtesy photo.

“I wanted to make it slightly more upscale than Luk’s [and] to get a little more creative,” Hoang said. “Luk’s is considered more of a tavern and bar, and it’s very broad as far as the menu goes, so here I really wanted to focus more on the pasta dishes, and the steaks and things like that.”

Plated entrees are indeed among Bellissimo’s many highlights, with a number of signature menu items that include filet oscar, saffron lobster risotto, chicken Francese, almond-crusted salmon, and steak tip Gorgonzola alfredo with penne pasta. You’ll find appetizers like meatballs, arancini, bruschetta and mussels fra diavolo, and premium sides like grilled prosciutto-wrapped asparagus and Parmesan risotto. As for the wood-fired pizzas, those options run the gamut from traditional flavors like cheese and pepperoni to meatball and ricotta and prosciutto and arugula.

“We’re using the same dough that we’ve been doing at Luk’s, but the whole dynamic of the pizzas has changed, because that wood-fired oven completely changes the texture,” Hoang said. “It gives the pizza this super-rustic look and taste, which is really awesome.”

For desserts, there’s tiramisu, a limoncello cake and a raspberry doughnut cheesecake. The drink menu features a lineup of Italian wines and specialty martinis.

While Bellissimo is starting out with just weekly dinner service, Hoang said he’d like to eventually begin offering lunch — he’s thinking perhaps sandwiches, paninis, salads and other similar items to serve the working demographic among the neighboring downtown businesses. Sunday brunch is also a possibility for the restaurant sometime in the future, Fiore said.

Bellissimo Italian Steakhouse and Bar
Opening Thursday, March 31
Where: 194 Main St., Nashua
Hours: Sunday through Thursday, 4 to 9 p.m., and Friday and Saturday, 4 to 10 p.m. The bar will remain open until 10 p.m. Sunday through Thursday and until 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday.
More info: See “Bellissimo Italian Steakhouse & Bar” on Facebook, call 718-8378 or email co-owner Jason Fiore Sr. at [email protected] to make a reservation.

Featured photo: Wood fired oven pizza. Courtesy photo.

Ready, set, decorate

Franco-American Centre to host amateur cake competition

Eight amateur bakers will show off their cake decorating skills to attendees and a panel of judges during the Franco Foods Fleur Délices challenge, a new friendly baking competition and fundraising event happening on Saturday, April 9, at Anheuser-Busch’s Biergarten in Merrimack.

Countries and regions spanning multiple continents around the world will be represented, but all of them share one commonality, either their French-speaking language or French culture, said Nathalie Hirte, event organizer and office manager of the Franco-American Centre, based in Manchester. A native of Québec and an avid home cook, Hirte is also the host of Franco Foods, a how-to YouTube series on French-inspired recipes that her son Oskar directs and produces.

“We were looking to do a live event … and, pre-pandemic, we had planned a cupcake challenge that was going to be a professional competition,” Hirte said. “That obviously got shelved, and especially now that it’s all hands on deck for businesses post-pandemic, we decided to do an amateur baking competition instead. … I know too just from seeing [posts from] my friends on Facebook and whatnot that there are so many talented amateur bakers out there.”

Each of the eight entrants has chosen from a list of nearly 90 International Francophonie-recognized countries and regions, or nations where French is a primary or secondary language or has a historical connection to the culture. France, Canada and Haiti, in addition to Croatia, Belgium and even Egypt and Mexico, have all been selected, and contestants will be tasked with creating a cake that is decorated to reflect that country in some way.

“They will pre-make everything at home, and then they will be bringing that to the event and will be putting together the cake and decorating it there,” Hirte said. “There are certain rules, so for example every cake has to have a minimum of two tiers. One of the tiers must be a sponge, so a regular cake batter, and then every cake must have a buttercream element and a cookie element.”

Once at the venue, contestants will be timed — one hour for single decorators and 45 minutes for teams of two — to create their cakes, and attendees are free to watch. There will also be a cash bar and light finger food appetizers to be provided by Celebrations Catering.

The judge panel will include local chefs Alex Waddell and Matt Provencher, as well as Marie-Josée Duquette, a representative of the Québec Government Office in Boston. Waddell is the owner of Crémeux French Patisserie in Merrimack, and he also studied at Ferrandi, an internationally recognized culinary arts school in Paris. Provencher is an award-winning Manchester chef and a two-time champion of the New Hampshire PoutineFest, another Franco-American Centre event. Each will grade the cakes based on everything from taste and texture to overall appearance, creativity and representation of their country or region.

There will also be a people’s choice winner for the best appearances as voted by attendees. Prizes include an engraved cake platter and bamboo cutting board, and winners also receive bragging rights and the opportunity to be a featured guest on an upcoming Franco Foods episode.

“I think the fun part will really be getting to watch the bakers go at it,” Hirte said. “We also have two very nice baskets for door prizes. Everybody gets a raffle ticket, but if somebody really likes something and they want to win, we’ll have an opportunity to buy more tickets.”

Franco Foods Fleur Délices Challenge
When: Saturday, April 9, 6 to 9 p.m.
Where: The Biergarten at Anheuser-Busch Brewery, 221 Daniel Webster Hwy., Merrimack
Cost: Admission is $27 per person or $50 per couple; all attendees receive a raffle ticket for a chance to win a door prize. Franco-American Centre members receive three tickets each.
Visit: facnh.com/fleur-delices-challenge
Reserve your admission spot to the event by Monday, April 4.

Featured photo: Scenes from Franco Foods, a YouTube series hosted by Franco-American Centre office manager Nathalie Hirte. Courtesy photos.

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