Year: 2024

Entitlement, by Rumaan Alam

Entitlement, by Rumaan Alam (Riverhead, 288 pages)

One of the more peculiar aspects of our society is that some of us have so much money that it’s actually a challenge to get rid of it, and some of us have so little that we work multiple jobs just to keep the lights on. In a just world, the former problem would cancel out the latter, but it’s not.

Rumaan Alam tackles this paradox in Entitlement, his fourth novel, which explores the prickly issues of both money and race. It is a compelling storyline: A young Black woman is hired to work for an aging white billionaire who has established a foundation to distribute his money to worthy causes.

The fictional Asher and Carol Jaffee Foundation has shades of the real-life “Giving Pledge” that many billionaires have signed. Asher Jaffee made his money with a company that delivered office supplies (“Jaffee … in a Jiffy!” was its brilliant motto). Now 83, he still has the kind of energy in which he bounds, rather than walks, and has no interest in retiring. In fact, he is more comfortable in an office than at home. “The office was the place where things happened, the place where he was necessary, the site of his every victory.”

At the foundation, Asher has a small and fiercely devoted staff that tends to his four-day work week, which is filled with people wanting to talk to him about his money.

Brooke Orr, 33, enters this world after nine years of unsatisfying work as a teacher. She is the adopted daughter of a single mom, an attorney who works in the vaguely defined field of reproductive health and who chose to raise her children with the help of three close female friends, rather than within the confines of marriage. Brooke’s own circle includes the daughter of one of her mother’s friends, Kim, and a gay man, Matthew, that they befriended while all were matriculating at Vassar College. (“As Brooke saw it, she and Kim were continuing what their mothers had started: a most modern little family.”)

When she joins the Jaffee Foundation, Brooke is doing well enough but is also in the vaguely annoying position of watching those around her seem to do even better. Her brother is engaged to be married, and though she loves him and doesn’t herself want to get married, her interactions with the couple give way to sardonic inner dialogue on “the smugness of young people who believe they have invented love.” Meanwhile, her friend Kim has recently come into an enormous inheritance, sum unknown, that has allowed her to pay cash for an apartment worth $2 million.

While Brooke loves her friend and is genuinely glad for her good fortune, the imbalance still puts a quiet strain on their relationship. After seeing the new place for the first time, “She saw Kim’s succession of Sundays in this two-bedroom apartment. She saw coffee-stained cups upside down in the dishwasher, saw flowers bought on impulse slouching on a table, saw an orange peel, dried into brittle shells, left to molder on the marble countertop. The cleaning lady would see to that. She saw comfort and solitude and joy and it looked absolutely thrilling to her. Kim was dear, Kim was good, but Kim had done nothing to deserve any of this earthly comfort. And wasn’t the universe meant to work that way, wasn’t it governed by justice?”

But Brooke is enjoying her own good fortune, in that Asher Jaffee has been impressed by their limited interactions and wants her to have more responsibility. She’s smart, and he sees this, but it’s also possible that he’s wanting to have a fatherly influence on Brooke — with her father out of the picture all of her life, and his own daughter having died in the 9/11 attacks at age 38.

Jaffee is generous with his money, his time and his advice, telling her, “Demand something from the world. Demand the best. Demand it.”

Brooke internalizes the advice and begins to change subtly as she grows into the position and assumes more responsibility. But she also uses Jaffee’s advice as justification for bad choices as she becomes more comfortable in the moneyed world and wants her share.

Alam’s previous novels include 2020’s acclaimed Leave the World Behind (which I loved and awarded a rare A+). That book also explored contemporary themes, including race. Entitlement strives, but never achieves the tension that ripples through Leave the World Behind, making it both a smart cultural critique and an old-fashioned page-turner. Nor does Entitlement convince the reader to care all that much about either Brooke or Asher and what happens to them. Brooke has a narrative arc, to be sure, but at no point in it does she want anyone to love her.

Alam’s voice is fresh and unique, and his cultural observations spot-on. While Entitlement will likely win many accolades and maybe make a short-list or two for a prestigious award, it is, like Brooke’s pre-Asher life, ultimately unsatisfying, even for a cautionary tale. B-

Album Reviews 24/10/17

Michael Des Barres, It’s Only Rock N’ Roll (Rock Ridge Music)

Most old people have heard of this dandy (that’s literally what he is; he inherited the title of Marquis from a 13th-century French ancestor) but are far more familiar with his ex-wife, Pamela, the most famous groupie in rock history. Musically he’s always been something of a non-starter; he was in Silverhead, Detective and a few other bands, and didn’t really make much of a splash before replacing Robert Palmer in Power Station just in time to front the band at the 1985 Live Aid concert. Ladies, he looks nothing like he does on this album cover nowadays, but far better for me to mock his music than that Peter Pan business. We open with “Dyna-Mite” — not the BTS tune but the MUD glam-rocker — and right off the bat I’m thinking Rocky Horror but in serious mode, you know, T. Rex all the way baby. This is supposed to be music from Des Barres’ salad days, but Slade’s “Cum On Feel The Noise” will make 99 percent of the world think of Quiet Riot and he can’t sing it for beans. Alice Cooper’s most boring song ever, “Eighteen,” gets a properly mediocre rendition. Etc. D+

HIM, When Love and Death Embrace The Best of HIM 1997-2003 (BMG Records)

Depending on whom you ask, Finland’s biggest-ever band is (usually) cited as being either Nightwish or Lordi, but this goth-metal act does get its mentions. They’ve been broken up for good since 2017, but it’s just as well I suppose, given that their heyday is celebrated in this comp, and besides, Nightwish has long since taken over their mantle. But what a time it was for these guys, back in the early days, their first one-off American appearance coming by way of none other than skateboarder/Jackass Bam Margera, and the rest is (mostly Finnish) history. Their (very Bauhaus-meets-Marilyn Manson) version of Blue Oyster Cult’s “Don’t Fear The Reaper” is here, as is their po-faced rub of Chris Isaak’s “Wicked Game,” and it’s about at that point that most U.S. audiences check either in or out as far as what they’re familiar with insofar as this band’s oeuvre. If you ever wanted to hear Bauhaus on steroids, it’s this, however that strikes your fancy. A

PLAYLIST

A seriously abridged compendium of recent and future CD releases

• This Friday, Oct. 18, is three days before my birthday, so if the gods are willing, there will be decent albums for me to listen to, so that I can bring you readers glad tidings of stuff you should be listening to, marking a double celebration! Now, you and I both know that the chances of that are pretty slim, like, the last time I checked, there weren’t going to be new albums coming out this week from, say, Wire and Skinny Puppy and Acumen Nation and Pet Shop Boys alongside recently discovered recordings of Al Jolson singing all Groucho Marx-like or Benny Goodman wailing on his clarinet like Jimmy Page before there even was a Jimmy Page, so I will roll the dice, check the list, and prepare myself for the usual nauseating stew of new albums from twerkers and nepo babies. Speaking of the latter, I was in a Target store the other day when what to my bloodshot eyes should appear but a brand new glossy magazine, titled Paris (referring to Auto-Tune-dependent singing-fraud Paris Hilton, of course) subtitled something insane like Pop Icon. I couldn’t believe it, because in the old days it used to take all sorts of payola and whatnot to get an artist on the cover of a nice glossy magazine, like Hit Parader, where rock stars were interviewed in careful fawning depth by drunken journalists so the lumpen masses could discover important things like their favorite rock star’s most-hated grade school teacher, or their favorite Skittles color. But let’s face it, local bands, we’ve entered a horrifying “nepotism era” of rock ’n’ roll, folks, so, for anyone out there with rock ’n’ roll dreams, your task is clear: Unless you are Paris Hilton and can pay Megan Thee Stallion to pretend to like you, or you’re Sabrina Carpenter and can demand a record contract or else your aunt, Nancy Cartwright, will immediately stop voicing the part of Bart Simpson on The Simpsons, you have no choice but to put out 50 albums a year like King Gizzard And The Lizard Wizard and all those bands do. It’s either that or just give up and finish your degree or become a plumber if you enjoy doing things like eating food and sitting in a heated dwelling without too much survival anxiety. I did not make up these new rules, guys, and the next local musician who yells at me about it on Facebook is going to get publicly ridiculed in this column, promise not threat. But meanwhile, let’s talk about TV-talk-show houseplant Jennifer Hudson and her new album, The Gift Of Love, since no one else will! Yes, it is supposedly a holiday album, but there are other hilariously over-sung covers here, like “Nature Boy” and Aretha’s “Respect.” Hm, that’s odd, no Bad Brains songs.

• Joe Jonas was the Jonas who was with the girl from Game of Thrones, and they divorced, so apparently his lawyers advised him to make a new album, which is on the way as we speak, titled Music For People Who Believe In Love! But does he, after divorcing Sansa Stark (she actually smiles a lot now)? Who knows, but the title of this album’s first song is “Work It Out,” and it starts with 12-string noodling before descending into a Justin Timberlake romp-along with high-pitched singing. Ack.

• The (it’s threatened) “final album” from noise-rockers Japandroids, Fate & Alcohol, is a bummer, because I wish they weren’t disbanding. “D&T” is a totally cool punk-speed rocker that would make Frank Black jealous. Don’t quit, fellas!

• Finally it’s Kylie Minogue, being impossibly cougar-sexy again, with her new album, Tension II! “Lights Camera Action,” the single, is a euro-trance tune that’s pretty great when she isn’t trying to sing like Ariana Grande, stop that this instant.

Mutiny of Clowns

  • ¾ ounce black rum – regular strength black rum; we’ll get to the overproof stuff in a couple of minutes
  • ¾ ounce Cynar – this is one of those low-octane, bitter Italian liqueurs that old men drink out of tiny glasses outside cafes in little alpine villages; as with most of these old-man liqueurs, it’s made with more than a dozen secret herbs, but because the label on the bottle has a giant picture of an artichoke on it, it’s a pretty good guess what one of them is
  • ¾ ounce fresh squeezed lime juice
  • ½ ounce ginger syrup (see below)
  • ¼ ounce simple syrup
  • An orange slice – preferably one just big enough to cover the top of a rocks glass without falling into it.
  • A slug of overproof (151) rum

This is a presentation cocktail. It is like the trick of pulling the tablecloth out from under the dishes, but with flaming alcohol.

Start by making some ginger syrup. There are two ways of going about this:

(1) Add sugar to fresh squeezed ginger juice and simmer it briefly, until the sugar dissolves entirely into saturation, then cool it and store it in your refrigerator. This will be a powerful, spicy, slightly bitter syrup that will knock you back on your heels. The problem is that you will need a good vegetable juicer, which not everyone has lying around. If you do, you’ll need to juice about a pound of fresh ginger, and your kitchen will smell overwhelmingly of ginger for half an hour or so. Not that that is a bad thing.

(2) Alternatively, you can shred a large hand (that’s what the big clumps of ginger root you get at the grocery store are called) on a box grater. Bring it to a boil with a cup or so of sugar and an equal amount of water. Stir it well, to make certain that everything has gotten thoroughly mixed together, then take it off the heat, cover it, and leave it all day, or overnight. Strain it through a fine-mesh strainer, then squeeze the remaining ginger pulp in a tea towel, to get the last of the ginger juice out of it. Bottle and refrigerate it. This will be a gentler, more civilized ginger syrup that will work just as well but won’t carry as much street cred as the more serious stuff.

Now, assuming that you’ve gone to the liquor store, and made your syrups, and sliced an orange, all you need to do is find a rocks glass and make sure you have matches or a lighter on hand.

Fill a cocktail shaker with ice. Add all the ingredients, except the overproof rum and the orange slice, to the shaker, and shake vigorously for a full minute. Strain it into the rocks glass with no ice. Cover the glass with the orange slice, and pour a slug of 151 onto it.

Quickly but without panic, light the orange on fire. There will be a delicate blue flame and the smell of grilling citrus.

Turn the lights down but not completely out, and take half a dozen pictures of your flaming drink. When you’re done, turn the lights back up and blow on the orange to put it out. Stuff the orange slice into your drink, and top it off with two or three ice cubes. Swirl it around a few times to chill everything back down, then drink it in silence.

In spite of this drink’s dramatic presentation and name, it is surprisingly delicate, a balance of sweet syrups and rum and the bitterness from the Cynar. The ginger is not overwhelming but is definitely there, adding to the depth of flavor.

This is a drink that demands confidence to make, but once you have, it murmurs encouragement to you and reminds you of how competent and good-looking you are.

Featured Photo: Photo by John Fladd.

Dining among the stars at the Taste of NH

Restaurants gather at the McAuliffe-Shepard Discovery Center

The Taste of New Hampshire is a yearly opportunity for the public to spend an evening mingling, seeing and being seen, and trying food from dozens of local restaurants. It is also one of the biggest fundraisers of the year for the Boys & Girls Clubs of Central and Northern New Hampshire.

Kamini Jorgensen is the Events Manager for the organization. She said Taste of New Hampshire is a big night for the capital area restaurant community. This year the event will be held at the McAuliffe-Shepard Discovery Center in Concord. Participating restaurants will be spread throughout the museum, and attendees will be able to travel from one station to another, enjoying the Discovery Center’s exhibits and trying samples from each restaurant.

“We’ll have a bunch of local restaurants downstairs,” Jorgensen said, “along with a couple upstairs where the big bar will be, which is with New Hampshire Distributors. They are spread out throughout the whole museum. Down the hallway [on the first floor] toward their planetarium there will be about five restaurants. We’ll have a bunch in the main area and then some upstairs as well.”

John Constant will be on the first floor. He is the owner of Constantly Pizza (39 S. Main St., Concord, 224-9366, constantlypizza.net). He said that in terms of catering jobs Taste of New Hampshire is pretty low-stress.

“I would say this is a medium-sized catering job,” Constant said. “This one’s just a really special job because we’re doing it to raise money for the Boys & Girls Club, so this is more of like enjoyment than actual work, you know?”

Constant will be presenting dishes from his catering menu. “We’re going to have our homemade macaroni and cheese,” he said. “We’re going to have a ravioli pasta dish, we’re going to have our calzone platters, and we’re going to be sampling our homemade meatballs.”

Devin Flanagan, the owner of Flanagan’s South Ender Deli Market (250 South St., Concord, 856-8020, flanaganssouthender.com), will be focusing on meat.

“We started a boutique butcher shop within our store,” Flanagan said, “so we will be showcasing our marinated chicken breast, our marinated steak tips and our pork tenderloin.”

Last year was Flanagan’s first time at Taste of New Hampshire, and he was impressed with the way the event’s organizers spaced out the restaurants.

“I really thought it was a great turnout last year,” he said, “and I really like how they separated all the restaurants in different rooms, so you could actually explore the area. You know, a lot of people had never been there before, and it’s just really thoughtfully laid out.”

Kamini Jorgensen said Taste of New Hampshire is a high point of her job. “I really enjoy seeing a bunch of new faces come in,” she said.

The Taste of New Hampshire
When: Tuesday, Oct. 22, from 5:30 to 8:30 p.m.
Where: McAuliffe-Shepard Discovery Center, 2 Institute Drive, Concord, 271-7827, starhop.com

Who’s there?
Participants at Taste of New Hampshire will include

110 Grill
70 North Kitchen
Alan’s Of Boscawen
The Barley House
Boys & Girls Clubs Of Central NH
CC Tomatoes
The Common Man
Concord Country Club
Constantly Pizza
Flag Hill Winery
Flanagan’s Southender
Granite State Candy
Hermanos Cocina Mexicana
M.S. Walker
New Hampshire Distributors
O Steaks And Seafood
Pats Peak Banquet Center
Red Arrow Diner
RNDC (previously known as Horizon Beverage)
Smokeshow Barbeque
The Brussel: Custom Catering & Events
The Wine’ing Butcher
Vinnie’s Pizza
Tandy’s Top Shelf

Featured Photo: Courtesy photo.

What the Pho! finds the balance

Traditional and fusion come together at Manchester restaurant

For Chris Caddy, owner of What The Pho!, a new noodle and tiki bar in Manchester, designing a menu is about striking balances — between sweet and sour, spicy and savory, fusion and authentic. It’s a lot to keep in mind. For instance, how many different flavors or textures should you include in a dish?

“I’m trying to get multiple layers of flavors,” Caddy said. “But when you get to more than three flavor profiles, everything gets muddied.” He used What the Pho!’s beef carpaccio as an example. Traditionally a carpaccio is an appetizer made of thinly sliced, often raw, meat or fish with a sauce. For a lot of restaurants a carpaccio’s simplicity can be a trap: Too much ornamentation or competing flavors will cover up the subtleties of the protein, but if it’s not complemented in some way, there’s a danger it will just sit there and slide into a single flavor profile that loses the eater’s attention after the first bite.

Caddy worked to keep each element on his carpaccio plate simple but to provide a bite or two of side dishes to give enough of a contrast to let the beef shine through. The beef is lightly seasoned.

“There’s a toasted sesame aioli and chili oil,” he said, “and then we finish it with Himalayan sea salt. In the center there’s a little salad of cucumber and sweet onions to offset it with something cool and tossed in our poke sauce. And then we’ve got some kettle chips on the side for crunch. You’ve got different mouthfeels, you’ve got different textures and different flavors.”

As a non-Asian chef, Caddy said perfecting a quintessentially Vietnamese dish like pho — a rich, spicy noodle soup, pronounced ‘fuh’ — involved a lot of trial and error.

“It was an intensive, every single day, multiple-hour learning curve,” he said, “just researching, researching, researching, buying different ingredients I was unfamiliar with, and just tons and tons of asking questions.” One of those questions was how authentic he wanted his pho to be.

“The thing is, we’re not a pho place,” Caddy said. “We’re an Asian fusion place. And pho, it’s in the name, and I want to draw people in with that. I’m addicted to pho myself. But what I wanted isn’t a perfectly traditional pho.” And the key to a great pho is in the broth. “Every time I’ve heard a Vietnamese person talk about pho, they go into how hard it is to get the broth right. Of course, if you’re from the Vietnamese culture, you’re carrying cultural expectations with you.” Because he wasn’t trying to be authentically Vietnamese, Caddy had a little more wiggle room in how he prepared his broth. “I roast the bones so we get a darker, richer flavor,” he said. “And all the usual suspects are there — the coriander, the ginger, the cinnamon, the cardamom, and all the charred onions and all that — but one of the things I wanted to do was give it more depth. Finally we reached the point where we said, ‘Let’s not do anything more with it.’ So we’re trying to stay in the ballpark, but I’m trying to elevate things slightly So it’s not, you know, it’s not the same exact [soup] as when you walk into like a little mom-and-pop Vietnamese place. It’s going to be a slightly different thing.”

For Caddy and his staff, the mission is to give the same level of attention to the food, their cocktails and the restaurant’s decor.

“When you can do that with the drinks,” Caddy said, “and with the food, the fun thing for me is when I watch people just enjoying everything we’ve created. It makes me really happy. That’s kind of the payoff for me.”

What The Pho!
836 Elm St., Manchester (next to Bookery and Cat Alley)
606-8769, whatthephorestaurant.com
Open seven days a week: Monday through Thursday, 11 a.m to 9 p.m.; Friday, 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.; Saturday, 4 to 10 p.m., and Sunday, 4 to 9 p.m.
Orders can be placed online for pickup.

Featured Photo: Courtesy photo.

The Weekly Dish 24/10/17

News from the local food scene

• German cooking for two: There will be an Oktoberfest-themed cooking class for couples on Saturday, Oct. 19, from 6:30 to 9 p.m. at The Culinary Playground (16 Manning St., Derry, 339-1664, culinary-playground.com). Learn to make jägerschnitzel(pork schnitzel with mushroom gravy), Semmelknödel(bread dumplings) and German apple cake. Teams of two work together in this hands-on class. The cost is $165 per couple.

• Tableside tequila: Join The Birch on Elm (968 Elm St., Manchester, 836-1958, birchonelm.com) for a tequila dinner on Tuesday, Nov. 19, from 6 to 8 p.m. Experience a curated five-course meal with specially selected Don Julio Tequila alongside each course. Courses will feature butternut squash “steak,” seared scallops, fish tacos, carne asada al pastor, and classic tres leches. Tickets are $165 each through eventbrite.com.

• Gourmet Italian wine pairings: There will be a five-course Wine Dinnerin Trattoria Fondi at the Bedford Village Inn (2 Olde Bedford Way, Bedford, 472-2001, bedfordvillageinn.com) on Wednesday, Oct. 23, from 6 to 9 p.m. This 21+ dinner will feature wine selections from the Ruffino wine portfolio. Each dish is paired with wines that showcase Ruffino’s offerings, beginning with a prosecco, followed by a crisp white and finished with bold reds. Tickets are $125+ per person through eventbrite.com and must be purchased in advance.

• A Brewfest in Goffstown: The Mount Uncanoonuc Brewfest will take place Saturday, Oct. 19, from 1 to 5 p.m. in the parking lot of Mountain Base Brewery, 553 Mast Road, No. 111, Goffstown (935-7132, mountainbasebrewery.com). Tickets are$35 in advance at workerbeefund.org/events, or $45 at the gate. All profits go to support the Worker Bee Fund, workerbeefund.org.

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