Sweets made with love

Experts explain how to wow with cookies, candy and cupcakes for your Valentine — or yourself

Make your Valentine’s Day a little sweeter with homemade goodies as local bakers share their secrets for jazzing up sugar cookies, getting creative with cupcakes and going fancy with chocolates.

For the chocoholics

Ideas beyond the traditional heart-shaped box

By Matt Ingersoll

mingersoll@hippopress.com

From chocolate-dipped strawberries to homemade truffles and breakable chocolate hearts, here are some sweet ideas for chocolate-y treats you can try out at home this Valentine’s Day.

Chocolate-dipped strawberries

One of the most common treats associated with Valentine’s Day, the chocolate-dipped strawberry is easy to create at home — the key is which type of chocolate to use, said Emilee Viaud, pastry chef and owner of Sweet Treats by Emilee, a home baker based in Milford.

“Baker’s chocolate is what you want to use. You can find it in the baking aisle at the grocery store,” Viaud said. “The top two brands are Baker’s and Ghirardelli, and those can come in a bag or as a bar. … There are options, [like] unsweetened, semi-sweet and bittersweet, and they are based off of the amount of cacao that’s in them. I recommend using semi-sweet for the strawberries, because it kind of gives it a little bit of sweetness and it’s not super bitter.”

Viaud recommends about five ounces of chocolate per pound of strawberries. The fruit itself should be bought fresh, washed, dried and kept at room temperature, never frozen.

“Dryness is super important, because water and chocolate do not mix,” she said.

Inserting a toothpick into the top of the fruit can make it a useful tool for dipping, or you can twist the leaves a bit to turn them into a sturdy handle and prevent them from breaking.

To melt the baker’s chocolate, the easiest way is to just pop it into the microwave. Viaud recommends starting with the smallest size possible, cutting it up or breaking it with your fingers, placing it in a bowl and heating for 30-second increments, stirring after each.

After it’s melted, dipping the strawberries into the chocolate works best when you use the smallest bowl you can, so that you have a deeper level to work with.

“You don’t want a big wide bowl. You want to be able to have at least two to three inches of chocolate so that you can dip the strawberry in,” Viaud said. “You can choose to dip them halfway or all the way up to the leaves, and then you basically just shake the strawberry five or six times to let off all that excess chocolate. … Then you want to place it on parchment paper on a plate or something. Tin foil will not work because it will stick.”

Placing the fruit into the refrigerator for 15 to 20 minutes after it’s dipped will cause the chocolate to harden. For extra flavor, you can roll them in anything from peanuts or hazelnuts to toasted coconut pieces, chocolate sprinkles or a white chocolate drizzle.

Ashley Reisdorf of Ashley’s Eats & Sweets, based in Raymond, said she has worked with alcohol-infused chocolate-dipped strawberries — a batch she made a few years ago, for instance, featured strawberries infused with Grey Goose vodka using pipettes.

“You poke a hole in the top of the strawberries by the stems with a toothpick, and then stick a pipette of the alcohol in the hole and squeeze it in right before you eat it,” she said.

Homemade truffles

Truffles are also very easy to make because they only require two ingredients — chocolate and heavy cream. Butter is also an optional ingredient to give them an added creaminess, or you can incorporate an extract like vanilla, raspberry, orange, peppermint or coconut for more flavor.

Like with the strawberries, Viaud said she recommends using baker’s chocolate for truffles. About eight ounces of chocolate and two-thirds of a cup of heavy cream would yield 20 tablespoon-sized truffle balls. If you’re using butter and extract, she said, one tablespoon of butter at room temperature and half a teaspoon of extract would be enough for that same amount.

Truffles require creating a ganache, achieved by heating the heavy cream in a pot on the stove until it simmers, or just until you see bubbles. The chocolate should be finely chopped.

“You don’t want to boil it. You just want to make it simmer,” Viaud said. “You’re going to have that chopped chocolate in a heat-proof bowl. You want to add the butter to that bowl of chocolate and then, once the heavy cream comes to a simmer, you’re going to pour that hot cream over the chocolate. … Then, the most important thing is to let it sit and not touch it.”

Allowing the pot to sit for about five minutes will allow the heavy cream to incorporate and melt the chocolate. If you’re using an extract, this is when you’ll add that in next, Viaud said.

“You can mix it in using a whisk, which will help incorporate the liquid into the melted chocolate,” she said. “Then it will come together and basically look like a chocolate hot sauce.”

Once you have your chocolate hot sauce, placing it in the refrigerator for one to two hours will cause it to harden. Viaud recommends covering it with plastic wrap, pushing the plastic wrap down so that it touches the top of the chocolate in the bowl and prevents moisture.

After that time in the refrigerator has passed, the chocolate should become moldable, allowing you to scoop it out and roll into balls using your hands. If the ganache is too sticky, you can use gloves or lightly coat your hands in cocoa powder to help produce smooth truffle balls.

If your truffles have other ingredients like coconut pieces, peanuts or hazelnuts, they should be rolled a second time at room temperature to help them stick. Placing them back into the refrigerator afterward for an additional 30 minutes will then allow them to be fully incorporated.

Cocoa bombs and breakable chocolate hearts

While a bit more involved than truffles or chocolate-dipped strawberries, cocoa bombs are great to enjoy on a cold winter night. Pouring hot milk or water over these hollow balls of chocolate, which are usually filled with flavored cocoa mixes, miniature marshmallows or any other ingredient you want to put in them, causes them to “explode” with flavor inside your mug.

Breakable chocolate hearts. Photo courtesy of Emilee Viaud.

Viaud, who began making her own cocoa bombs in late 2020, now offers all kinds of flavors from traditional milk, dark or white to peanut butter, salted caramel and more.

The traditional round appearance of cocoa bombs is achieved using half sphere-shaped silicone molds, which are available in most big box or craft stores in all shapes and sizes. Unlike for the strawberries or truffles, Viaud recommends using coating chocolate.

“You can really use any type you want, but for cocoa bombs, because you’re molding them and keeping a sphere shape, you really want to use a chocolate that is durable,” she said. “[Coating chocolate] is made with ingredients that help keep it stable and give it that nice shine. … Ghrirardelli has coating chocolate at the grocery store, or melting wafers, is what they call it.”

Melting the chocolate can similarly be done by placing it in the microwave and stirring at 30-second increments. Viaud recommends pouring just about a teaspoon into each individual mold and using a spoon to coat its entire inside. Placing it in the refrigerator for about five minutes and repeating that process a second time will cause your molds to harden well.

“I think that’s the step that a lot of people don’t do, and then their chocolate breaks,” Viaud said. “So it’s important that you repeat that process to get a really thick shell.”

Once it’s completely hardened, you can remove the shells from the mold — the best way to do that is to gently push them out from the bottom with your finger or thumb, as the edges would break most easily, Viaud said. Two half sphere molds equal one cocoa bomb, and heating a saute pan over the stove on low heat will ensure smoother spheres. This is also when any flavorings such as cocoa mixes or marshmallows get added into your bombs.

“You take the edges and quickly put them on the hot pan to melt the chocolate and make it smooth, so that they come together easily,” she said. “You have to have the right pressure, because if you push down too hard, you’ve melted half of it. … So it’s really about having the right touch to know exactly how much of that sphere to melt.”

The chocolate then eventually cools at room temperature, the half sphere molds “glued” together.

If you have heart-shaped molds, you can make breakable chocolate hearts, a process very similar to the cocoa bombs. The difference, Viaud said, is you can fill them with any small candy you want, from M&Ms or Hershey’s kisses to jelly beans or conversation hearts.

“You can use the back of a spoon to kind of crack it open,” she said.

If you’d rather let the experts handle everything this Valentine’s Day, check out this list of local candy and chocolate shops, home bakers and other businesses offering special chocolate treats.

Candy Kingdom (235 Harvard St., Manchester, 641-8470, candykingdom.shop) takes special orders for chocolate-dipped strawberries, and also offers treats like chocolate red-foiled hearts and assorted heart-shaped boxes of chocolates.
Dancing Lion Chocolate (917 Elm St., Manchester, 625-4043, dancinglion.us) has various bars, boxes, drinking chocolate sets and other items that can make great Valentine’s Day gifts.
Granite State Candy Shoppe (13 Warren St., Concord, 225-2591; 832 Elm St., Manchester, 218-3885; granitestatecandyshoppe.com) is offering a variety of specialty chocolates and candies for Valentine’s Day, like milk, white or dark chocolate heart boxes, Valentine malt balls, chocolate-dipped strawberries and more.
Loon Chocolate (252 Willow St., Manchester, loonchocolate.com) just opened a new retail shop inside The Factory on Willow on Feb. 5, in partnership with 603 Charcuterie. The purveyor of small batch chocolates features 12 flavored bars in addition to a product line that includes cacao nibs, dark chocolate cocoa bombs and a do-it-yourself chocolate elixir kit.
Nelson’s Candy & Music (65 Main St., Wilton, 654-5030, nelsonscandymusic.com) is offering a variety of specialty sweets and treats for Valentine’s Day, from traditional assorted heart-shaped boxes of chocolate to solid chocolate dinosaurs holding tiny hearts.
Pearls Candy & Nuts (356 S. Broadway, Salem, 893-9100, pearlscandynh.com) has assorted milk chocolate heart lollipops, gold foil solid milk chocolate hearts and more.
Sweet Treats by Emilee (Milford, sweettreatsbyemilee@gmail.com, find her on Facebook) offers milk chocolate-dipped Twinkies, breakable chocolate hearts filled with assorted candies, and cocoa bombs in several flavors, from milk, white or dark chocolate to salted caramel, peanut butter and cookies and cream. Find her products at the Manchester Craft Market (inside the Mall of New Hampshire, 1500 S. Willow St., Manchester), Locally Handmade (at the Merrimack Premium Outlets, 80 Premium Outlets Blvd., Merrimack), and Junction 71 (71 Route 101A, Amherst). You can also find them at the Milford Farmers Market on Saturday, Feb. 12, from 10 a.m. to 1 p.m., inside the Milford Town Hall Auditorium (1 Union Square, Milford).
Van Otis Chocolates (341 Elm St., Manchester, 627-1611, vanotis.com) has assorted chocolate gift boxes, custom chocolate-dipped Champagne bottles and milk chocolate foiled hearts. They’re also taking special orders for chocolate-dipped strawberries.

Sugary sweet

Decorate your cookies like a pro

By Meghan Siegler

msiegler@hippopress.com

Elevate a standard sugar cookie to a bake-shop-worthy treat by stepping up your baking game, whipping up a perfect royal icing and decorating with finesse.

Jessica Radloff from Granite State Cakes in Wilton teaches classes and posts tutorials on her Facebook page to help novice bakers make sugar cookies that look professionally decorated. And the best part is, you can focus on the icing instead of the dough.

“While you can make your own cookie dough, there’s absolutely no rule that says you can’t use ready-made dough from the refrigerated section of your local supermarket,” Radloff said.

Here are her tips for making ordinary sugar cookies extraordinary.

Roll and bake

Regardless of whether you make or buy your dough, Radloff advises that you roll your cookie dough out between two layers of parchment paper and place it in the freezer for about 5 minutes to help retain the shapes you cut out and make it easier to transfer to your baking sheet. Once it’s chilled, you can use cookie cutters or get creative; Radloff said you can print a template on a piece of paper and cut cookies with a sharp knife. Then it’s time to bake.

“I’ll preach parchment until the end of my days,” Radloff said. “Line your baking sheet with it. If you have a silicone mat feel free to use it instead. Give your cookies about 2 inches of space in case they spread a little.”

Bake ¼-inch-thick cookies at 350 degrees for 7 to 8 minutes, then let them cool completely before you start icing.

Nice icing

“Royal icing can seem intimidating but it is all about the consistency — too thin and it will never stay where you want it and it will take an eternity to dry. Too thick and it will be impossible to get [a] smooth, satisfying finish,” Radloff said.

Valentine’s Day cookies. Photo by Jessica Radloff.

Once your icing base is made [see recipe in box], add your desired amount of royal icing base to a mixing bowl and add food color until you get the shade you want. Radloff said that color continues to develop over time so mix them in a couple days ahead of time for darker colors. In a pinch, you can microwave your royal icing on the 50-percent power setting for 15 seconds at a time (no more than twice) to help speed up the process.

There are two popular methods of icing cookies, Radloff said. The first is using two different consistencies of icing — one that’s thicker to create a sturdy border and one that’s looser to fill in the spaces you’ve outlined. The second is using one medium-consistency icing that can hold its shape enough to outline but also be smoothed out nicely to fill in the outlines.
“I personally prefer the second option — I would prefer not to have to mix double the icing for my cookies when it’s not absolutely necessary,” Radloff said. “[But] some designs and details require different consistencies to achieve different looks.”

When thinning your icing, add water by the drop; consistency can change greatly with even a teaspoon. Medium consistency royal icing looks a bit like ranch dressing, Radloff said. You can test your icing by drawing a line through your icing with a knife and then counting the number of seconds it takes for the line to disappear into the rest of the icing. Medium icing will smooth out within about 15 seconds.

“The best advice I can give a new cookie decorator is to count your icing and then test it out on a piece of parchment paper to make sure it’s where you want it before piping it onto a cookie,” Radloff said. “If it’s too thick and doesn’t smooth out properly, add another mist of water and try again. … If it is too thin you can add half a teaspoon of confectioner’s sugar at a time to thicken it and then test again.”

Decoration perfection

“I would suggest using tipless icing bags so you do not have to go through the hassle of finding, buying and cleaning a ton of piping tips,” Radloff said. “Start small when you first cut your piping bags — you can always cut off more but you cannot add it back.”

Once you outline your cookies, let them set for a few minutes.

“Trust me, it’s worth the few minutes to preserve your mental health,” Radloff said. “The last thing you want after going through all the work to get to this point is for your icing to start dripping off of your cookies because you were too impatient to wait for your outline to set a bit.”

Once your outline has set — it will look a little less glossy and more matte — you can start to fill them in. Start from just inside your outline and work toward the center of each space you are “filling in.”

“You can choose solid-colored cookies for your first time decorating, or you can let your imagination run wild and add polka dots or stripes, choose a different outline and food color — the possibilities are endless,” Radloff said.

Once decorated, cookies should dry for 12 to 24 hours before packaging to prevent moisture in the cookie from seeping out and causing the colors to run or the ice cracking due to not being allowed to fully harden.

Royal icing
Jessica Radloff shares her recipe, minus a couple of “secret” ingredients that are key to her icing’s flavor but don’t affect consistency.

6 tablespoons meringue powder (You can use 9 tablespoons of egg whites but make sure they are pasteurized for food safety.)
10 Tablespoons water
2 pounds confectioner’s sugar
1 Tablespoon corn syrup (This is optional but it gives your fully dried icing a softer bite as opposed to the crunchy texture you sometimes find with decorated cookies.)
1 teaspoon almond extract (I use imitation to ensure I don’t have any issues with allergies.)

Add all of your ingredients to your mixing bowl, making sure to sift your dry ingredients to remove all lumps. Mix with a stand mixer or beater for a couple minutes or until the royal icing looks a bit like plaster — it will be thick. Store your finished royal icing in an airtight container with a piece of parchment or plastic wrap laid directly on the surface of your royal icing to prevent crusting on the surface of your icing.

Let them eat cupcakes

Put your own twist on the classic dessert

By Angie Sykeny

asykeny@hippopress.com

When it comes to Valentine’s Day treats, cupcakes are quintessential.

“They’re made with love, pretty to look at, and, let’s face it, they just make people happy,” said Tara Collins, baker and owner of Collins Cupcakes in Derry. “They’re everything we think about on Valentine’s Day.”

Courtesy of Collins Cupcakes.

Cupcakes have a short, simple set of steps and ingredients that “most people have right in their cabinets and pantries,” Collins said, making them a great dessert option for beginner bakers.

“The great thing about baking cupcakes is that even if they don’t look perfect the first time, they will still taste great,” she said.

The versatility of cupcakes gives bakers plenty of room for creativity and experimentation.

“The customization options are endless,” Collins said, “and the fun thing is, cupcakes are individual [desserts], so each cupcake can be different … and customized to each person’s liking, and, more importantly, you don’t have to share.”

Consider filling your cupcakes with a fruit filling, like strawberries, blueberries, raspberries or apples; or with pudding or sprinkles.

“Filling is a super easy way to elevate your cupcakes to a whole new flavor dimension,” said Brianna Lucciano, manager at Cake Fairy Bakery in Hooksett.

Play around with frostings by mixing extracts, liqueurs or candy or cookie pieces into a buttercream frosting base. Then, add a topping, like a single piece of candy — a heart-shaped candy is the perfect accent for a Valentine’s Day cupcake, Lucciano said — or sprinkles, fruit, edible glitter, or chocolate or caramel drizzle.

Courtesy of Cake Fairy Bakery.

“If it sounds good to you, try it,” Lucciano said. “Do you think anyone thought a maple bacon cupcake would be good at first? Definitely not, but someone tried it, and look how beloved that flavor is now.”

One of the easiest ways to jazz up your cupcakes, Collins said, is with food coloring. For Valentine’s cupcakes, place streaks of pink food coloring inside the piping bag, fill it with white buttercream and swirl it on top of the cupcake once it’s cooled.

“Each one will look slightly different than the others, while at the same time complementing one another,” she said.

You can have fun with cupcakes this Valentine’s Day even if you aren’t up for baking them yourself.

“You can literally just go to your local box store and grab some unfrosted cupcakes,” Lucciano said, “and, if you can’t frost very well, grab an ice cream scoop and do a scoop of frosting on top of the cupcake, add some sprinkles or a chocolate drizzle, and you now have a gorgeous dessert that looks professionally crafted.”

Finally, Lucciano said, have fun and don’t take yourself too seriously; even if your cupcakes are a flop, “the thought is truly what counts.”

“So, they came out disastrous? It’s a fabulous story to tell your family and friends about how you tried and completely failed,” she said. “Laughter is the best medicine.”

Valentine’s Day buttercream frosting
Courtesy of Tara Collins, baker and owner of Collins Cupcakes in Derry

Ingredients:
1 cup (2 sticks) softened butter
¾ cup strawberry jam
3 cups powdered sugar

Using a stand or hand mixer, whip butter until smooth. Add strawberry jam, then slowly add in powdered sugar. Mix until all sugar is well-incorporated and buttercream is smooth and creamy. Frost onto cooled chocolate cupcakes and top with fresh sliced strawberries.

Featured photo: Valentine cocoa bombs. Courtesy of Emilee Viaud.

S’more wines

Fancy up the traditional dessert

In the fall of 2020 I wrote a column about port wine varieties and their pairings with s’mores. The article spoke to evenings, gathered around the campfire, savoring fine port wines and how they can pair to the welcoming warmth of both the fire and the gooey s’mores.

It is winter and the crisp air and snow are to be enjoyed. So get out and strap on those touring skis or snowshoes. Break out those skates and take a spin on the pond. After your “walk in the woods,” gather around a warm fire and break out the s’mores. But this time try a different spin on the s’mores. Ramp up with a few changes to the mainstay of graham crackers and marshmallow and pair those new s’mores to different wines.

For the traditionalist who likes their s’mores the way they have always had them, I offer the 2019 Sixth Sense Syrah, by Michael David (available at the New Hampshire Liquor & Wine Outlets at $17.99). This wine hails from their Lodi, California, winery and vineyards planted in 1982. With a color of dark violet and nose of black cherry, plum and espresso, it is a perfect complement to the toast of the brown, melted marshmallow. Flavors of ripe raspberry and licorice, along with a bit of spice, carry through to the finish, pairing nicely with the dark chocolate in the s’mores. This is a real treat for the child that still remains in our adult bodies.

Time for a change-up? Add a little chocolate-covered bacon to the marshmallow, and you get that salty smokiness we all love. What to pair with this combo? The 2019 Cline Cellars Ancient Vines Zinfandel (available at the New Hampshire Liquor & Wine Outlets at $17.99) brings the fruit-forward experience of the wine to the fore. With notes of strawberry, along with coffee and chocolate, there is a full mouth feel to the experience. The wine was aged on new and used oak, which brings notes of leather and vanilla to the mix. Coming from ancient vines planted in Contra Costa County, east of San Francisco Bay, this wine can be enjoyed now or in future outings for another five years.

Looking to resurrect that child wonderment still within you? How about baking a batch of snickerdoodle cookies and replacing those store-bought graham crackers with the cookies in your s’more? Any of your favorite homemade cookies will do, sugar or chocolate chip, but the cinnamon in the snickerdoodles complements the fruit in the riesling I suggest here. The 2019 Hermann J. Wiemer Vineyard Dry Riesling (available at the New Hampshire Liquor & Wine Outlets at $17.99) is a perfect match! Estate bottled, from grapes grown on the west bank of Seneca Lake, New York, it is true to an old-world Riesling. With a 300-year family history of winemaking in the Mosel region of Germany, Hermann Wiemer came to New York in the 1960’s and found the cool climate and gravel soils of the western shore of Seneca Lake to be like that of the Mosel Valley. The layers of citric and other tropical fruit, along with a slight minerality, complements the sugar and cinnamon of the snickerdoodles.

In celebration of Valentine’s Day, a romantic, snowy afternoon outing must end at a fire pit with s’mores made with chocolate-covered strawberries, paired with a sparkling rosé wine. Mumm Napa Méthode Traditionnelle Brut Rosé (available at the New Hampshire Liquor & Wine Outlets at $22.99) is the perfect complement to those lush strawberries. It has a beautiful pink color with rich fruit flavors that culminate in an elegant finish. A blend of 80 percent pinot noir and 20 percent chardonnay, it has aromas of black cherries, raspberries, along with citrus. It has a delightful full mouth feel as it bubbles over your tongue. As the label states, this sparkling wine is produced the same way as classic Champagne, that is with a double fermentation, and with a minimum of 18 months of yeast aging.

So release that inner youthfulness and play in the snow and on the ice. And after that, kick back over some adult-themed s’mores, made all the more interesting by changing up the recipes and pairing those new discoveries to different wines.

Featured photo: Courtesy photo.

Greyhound leaving right about now

I know you’ve had a lot going on in your life lately — it’s the start of another pandemic year, your children are listening to strange music that references coconuts?, and there’s been that haunting, moaning sound coming from the basement — so it’s totally forgivable that it’s slipped your mind that February is National Grapefruit Month.

The good news is that you still have three weeks or so to put up the decorations and plan a Fresca™ party.

In the meantime, let’s make a grapefruit cocktail.

Citrus is a family.

Oranges are the mom — sweet, with the merest hint of bitterness, like a sigh of regret; the backbone of the family.

Lemons are the sexy aunt who makes a lot of important life decisions based on alcohol.

Limes are the workhorse of the family. They hold down 15 jobs and still manage to tackle the hard songs at karaoke.

Grapefruit is the cousin who, while having a very good heart deep down, is the one you call when you need something shady. Grapefruit knows a guy who knows a guy. He never hides in the background. Expect him at a wedding in a loud plaid suit and wingtips. He’ll tip the minister with a Benjamin in a handshake while telling an off-color joke.

When you make a cocktail with grapefruit, the bitterness isn’t a bug; it’s a feature. You have to embrace it. Even if, like me, you prefer cocktails a little on the sweet side, be aware that grapefruit will refuse to be covered up.

Perhaps the most classic grapefruit drink is a Greyhound, a spin on a Screwdriver; gin or vodka — sometimes rum — with the orange juice replaced with grapefruit juice. There are really only two ingredients, so the flavor tends to be very straightforward. I’ve tweaked this particular recipe to add a little more complexity.

Greyhound

(slightly modified)

Ingredients

2 2-inch slices of grapefruit rind (Just the thin outer layer. The grapefruit will bring enough bitterness without using any of the white pith under the surface.)

1½ ounces good gin — I like Death’s Door.

1 ounce St. Germain, an elderflower liqueur

2 ounces unsweetened ruby grapefruit juice

Muddle the grapefruit peel thoroughly in the bottom of a cocktail shaker. This will release citrus oil and add an extra layer of grapefruitiness to the finished drink. Feel free to really smash the peel.

Add the other ingredients and four or five ice cubes to the shaker, and shake thoroughly.

Strain over ice in a rocks glass.

Grapefruit is the dominant flavor in this cocktail. The St. Germain takes a tiny bit off the edge of the bitterness and adds a hint of — floralness? Florality? Gin has enough character to go head-to-head with the grapefruit. This is a classic drink that you’ve probably never taken for a test drive. I think this will be a bit of a revelation.

I remember hearing a country song when I was little. I was very young and I’ve never — then or since — been much of a country music fan, but you accept Art where you find it, and the lyrics have stayed with me for 50 years.

The singer — I think it was Roy Clark — sang about the sad realization that love has died between him and his woman. He watches her pack her bag with tears in his eyes, then drives her to the bus station. He watches her get on the bus, and then, in words that have haunted me for more than half a century:

Now we’re here at the station

And you’re getting on

And all I can think of is

Thank God and Greyhound you’re gone!

Featured photo: Greyhound. Photo by John Fladd.

Overnight apple oatmeal

When I think about breakfast recipes, I usually think about something to make on the weekend, when time doesn’t matter. Perhaps it is a new flavor of sweet roll or maybe a seasonal quick bread. When creating this recipe, however, I had a busy morning in mind, because although it needs a minimum of eight hours of chilling time, the rest of the time — chopping, mixing, and cooking — is a total of maybe 10 minutes.

For a simple recipe, it has a number of ingredients. First, old-fashioned (or rolled) oats are essential. Quick-cooking and instant oats won’t produce the desired texture. Second, you can use sweetened applesauce, but you may need to reduce or eliminate the added sugar. (You can add the sugar at the end so you don’t end up with a too-sweet dish.) Third, you don’t have to use almond milk. You can use another plant-based or even regular milk. I would choose lower-fat and unsweetened versions to keep this recipe nice and healthy. Fourth, the apple choice is up to you. I like Fuji because it has a decent amount of crunch and a bit of sweetness. Pick the apple you like best. Fifth, no matter the apple you choose, don’t peel it. The apple skin will add more vitamins and texture to this dish.

Now, with all of those hints shared, you have an incredibly simple recipe that produces a wonderful winter breakfast. Though it sits in the refrigerator overnight, you heat it before serving. Then you have a warm, hearty and healthy breakfast to get you ready for the cold outdoors. If you prefer your breakfast served cold, this recipe can do that also. Just add the diced apple before serving, then stir and eat.

Overnight apple oatmeal
Serves 2

3/4 cup old-fashioned oats
1 cup natural applesauce
3/4 cup unsweetened almond milk
2 teaspoons sugar
1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1 medium Fuji apple


Combine oats, applesauce, almond milk, sugar and cinnamon in a medium bowl.
Stir well to combine.
Cover and refrigerate for 8 hours or overnight.
Divide oatmeal into two cereal bowls.
Core and dice apple; divide between bowls.
Stir well.
Microwave each bowl for 1 to 2 minutes, stirring at 30-second intervals, until hot.

Photo: Overnight apple oatmeal. Photo by Michele Pesula Kuegler.

In the kitchen with Donna Tammaro

Donna Tammaro of Derry is the owner and co-founder of Tammaro’s Cucina (469 Charles Bancroft Hwy., Litchfield, 377-7312, tammaroscucina.com), an eatery offering home-cooked Italian meals that she opened last July with her daughter, Lindsey Russo. Tammaro’s Cucina features a diverse menu of of dishes cooked to order, including chicken Parm, meat lasagna, stuffed shells, and chicken broccoli alfredo, plus hot subs, Sicilian pizzas, and a rotating soup of the day with flavors like Italian chicken or pasta fagioli. With 24-hour advance notice, half- or full-sized pasta trays can be ordered that feed about six to eight or 12 to 16 people, respectively — each comes with a loaf of garlic bread featuring a garlic butter Tammaro makes in house. Originally from the Boston area, Tammaro also lived in Manchester for several years.

What is your must-have kitchen item?

My Cuisinart food processor.

What would you have for your last meal?

Lobster, steamed with butter.

What is your favorite local restaurant?

Ignite [Bar & Grille in Manchester]. My sister and her family go there all the time and that was how I started going. … I love to get a lot of different things there. Their steak tips are really good.

What celebrity would you like to see eating in your restaurant?

Adam Sandler.

What is your favorite thing on your menu?

The Tammaro’s tortellini special. It’s a five-cheese tortellini with alfredo, and it’s got pancetta, spinach and mushrooms. It was my own creation.

What is the biggest food trend in New Hampshire right now?

Mexican food. I feel like I’ve seen so many Mexican places opening up lately.

What is your favorite thing to cook at home?

I love to cook hamburgers on the grill. I also really like to make American chop suey.

Italian mac and cheese
From the kitchen of Donna Tammaro of Tammaro’s Cucina in Litchfield

8 ounces fontina cheese, shredded
8 ounces mozzarella cheese, shredded
¾ cup grated Parmesan cheese
¾ cup heavy cream
2 Tablespoons butter (plus extra for greasing)
1 pound cavatappi pasta
¼ cup breadcrumbs
2 Tablespoons fresh basil, minced

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Heat a saucepan over low-medium heat. Add fontina, mozzarella, heavy cream, butter and half a cup of Parmesan and stir until combined. Cook for about four minutes, or until the cheese is melted. Bring a pan of water to a boil and cook the pasta. Drain and add to the cheese mixture. Mix well. Grease the dish slightly with butter and dust with the breadcrumbs. Pour the pasta and cheese sauce into the dish. Sprinkle remaining breadcrumbs and Parmesan cheese on top and bake for 30 minutes. Garnish with basil.

Featured photo: Donna Tammaro. Courtesy photo.

Food is love

Special meals and sweet treats for Valentine’s Day

Valentine’s Day is just around the corner, so if you’re looking for a local spot to dine out with your special someone, or you want to give the gift of gourmet chocolates or sweet treats, check out this list of New Hampshire businesses to help you mark the occasion.

With Feb. 14 falling on a Monday this year, some local eateries are open for business on the weekday when they would normally be closed. Others are choosing to offer special menus on other days throughout the preceding weekend. We’ve indicated the exact dates for each of those celebrations where applicable. Chocolatiers and bakers with special offerings are also included. Be sure to contact each establishment directly for the most up-to-date availability.

Do you know of a special Valentine’s Day dinner, menu or other special gift-giving opportunity in New Hampshire that is not on this list? Let us know at food@hippopress.com.

Angela’s Pasta & Cheese Shop (815 Chestnut St., Manchester, 625-9544, angelaspastaandcheese.com) is taking orders for multi-course dinners to go for two, featuring she-crab bisque or herbaceous citrus salad, your choice of an entree (aged short ribs, rosemary halibut or brined Statler chicken), two sides of herbed red bliss potatoes and roasted haricot verts, and four-inch chocolate strawberry mousse cake for dessert. Complementary wines are also available a la carte. The cost is $89.95 per dinner for two, or $49.95 for one. Order by Feb. 4. Pickups will be on Saturday, Feb. 12, or Monday, Feb. 14.

Atkinson Resort & Country Club (85 Country Club Drive, Atkinson, 362-8700, atkinsonresort.com) is offering a special “romantic rendezvous” package for Valentine’s Day, which includes a dinner for two featuring a cup of soup or shared appetizer, a dinner entree and a choice of dessert, as well as a one-night resort stay and a complimentary bottle of Champagne with a cheese and fruit platter. Rates vary depending on the day of the week. Call to book.

The Bakeshop on Kelley Street (171 Kelley St., Manchester, 624-3500, thebakeshoponkelleystreet.com) is taking orders for a variety of specialty items for Valentine’s Day, including milk, dark and white chocolate-dipped strawberries, cannolis, chocolate chip heart cookies and Valentine’s cakes. New this year is a chocolate dessert “charcuterie” board, featuring a selection of cookies, cake bites, fudges, cannolis, fruits and more. Pickups will be on Sunday, Feb. 13, from 9 a.m. to 1 p.m., and Monday, Feb. 14, from 7:30 a.m. to 1 p.m.

Bedford Village Inn (2 Olde Bedford Way, Bedford, 472-2001, bedfordvillageinn.com) will serve a special four-course prix fixe menu in its dining room on Monday, Feb. 14, with seatings from 5 to 9:30 p.m. Options will include your choice of an appetizer (Cape Cod oysters, veal meatballs, yellowfin tuna tartare, confit duck leg, or Caprese soup); a salad (red oak and arugula or lamb’s lettuce and baby mizuna); an entree (Madeira-braised pork shank, grilled filet mignon, Dunk’s mushroom cannelloni, sesame-crusted yellowfin tuna, roasted garlic-marinated Vernon Farm chicken Statler, or oven-roasted lamb rack, lamb shoulder and merguez cassoulet); and a dessert (chocolate profiteroles, mille feuille, mandarin lingonberry sorbet, galette frangipane, chocolate marquise, a dessert collection to share for two featuring chocolate-covered strawberries, orange rosemary shortbread cookies, red velvet whoopie pies and crispy Nutella bars, or a sweetheart chocolate bar to share for two featuring dark chocolate Godiva mousse, ladyfinger sponge cake, raspberry mousse, raspberries, raspberry coulis and chocolate sauce). The cost is $95 per person and reservations are required. A Champagne brunch is also scheduled for Sunday, Feb. 13, from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. in the Bedford Village Inn’s Great Hall. Tickets are $95 per person and will include unlimited mimosas and access to a brunch buffet with a raw bar, a chef-attended omelet station, a grand dessert buffet and more (event is 21+ only).

Birch Wood Vineyards (199 Rockingham Road, Derry, 965-4359, birchwoodvineyards.com) will serve a special four-course Valentine’s wine dinner on Thursday, Feb. 10, at 6 p.m., featuring items like burrata cheese ravioli and pomegranate salad with a maple cider vinaigrette. The main entree will include your choice of one of four options, including a surf and turf plate with New York sirloin and creamy garlic shrimp, chicken oscar with white asparagus, lobster meat and hollandaise sauce, seafood Newburg served in a puff pastry, or a vegan eggplant Napoleon, layered with zucchini and summer squash and served over quinoa. The cost ranges from $70 to $110 per person, depending on which entree you choose and whether you opt for the wine pairings for each course. Reservations are required.

Bistro 603 (345 Amherst St., Nashua, 722-6362, bistro603nashua.com) will serve a special Valentine’s Day features menu from Friday, Feb. 11, through Monday, Feb. 14, in addition to its regular dinner menu. Reservations are highly recommended.

Boston Bakes (Goffstown, find them on Facebook @bostonbakesnh) is taking orders for four-inch mini cakes for two, in addition to multiple flavors of macarons, full-sized cakes, sugar cookies, honeycomb truffle pieces, cupcakes, chocolate-dipped strawberries and marshmallow pops. Order by Feb. 8.

Buckley’s Great Steaks (438 Daniel Webster Hwy., Merrimack, 424-0995, buckleysgreatsteaks.com) will be open on Monday, Feb. 14, from 4 to 9 p.m., serving some Valentine’s Day specials in addition to its regular dinner menu.

Buckley’s Market & Cafe (9 Market Place, Hollis, 465-5522, find them on Facebook @buckleysmarketcafehollis) is taking orders for Valentine’s Day takeout dinner boxes for two, featuring a shrimp cocktail, a surf and turf entree with pan-seared filet mignon and crab cake, roasted potatoes, spinach, tomatoes, Madeira demi-glace and remoulade, a strawberry cheesecake bar with chocolate ganache and Oreo crust, and a bottle of Prima prosecco. The cost is $110 per box. Order by Feb. 9.

Candy Kingdom (235 Harvard St., Manchester, 641-8470, candykingdom.shop) has a variety of specialty treats available for Valentine’s Day, like chocolate-dipped strawberries, chocolate red-foiled hearts and assorted heart-shaped boxes of chocolates.

Caroline’s Fine Food (132 Bedford Center Road, Bedford, 637-1615, carolinesfood.com) is taking orders for special dinners for two, featuring options like beef tenderloin, roasted duck breast, horseradish-encrusted salmon, and pan-seared chicken breast with porcini cream, all of which come with shallot whipped potatoes and a vegetable like sauteed broccolini or roasted asparagus. Each also includes your choice of pot de creme or baby lemon cake for dessert. Order by Feb. 11 at 3 p.m. Pickups will be available through Monday, Feb. 14, at 6 p.m.

Cava Tapas & Wine Bar (10 Commercial Alley, Portsmouth, 319-1575, cavatapasandwinebar.com) is taking reservations now for its annual eight-course aphrodisiac tasting menu, which will be served during dinner service from Saturday, Feb. 12, through Monday, Feb. 14. Items include yellowfin tuna, scallops and saffron, cherries and figs and more. The cost is $75 per person.

Colby Hill Inn (33 The Oaks, Henniker, 428-3281, colbyhillinn.com) will serve a special three-course prix fixe menu for Valentine’s Day from Saturday, Feb. 12, through Monday, Feb. 14, with seatings between 4 and 8 p.m. each evening. The menu will include your choice of a first course (roast butternut squash and apple cider soup, lobster bisque, heirloom beet salad, endive salad, potato, roast garlic and goat cheese pierogi, or Dutch meatballs); an entree (roasted hen in citrus and bay leaves, Burgundy braised lamb shank, seared tenderloin, heirloom squash and goat cheese maultaschen, or pan-roasted Faroe Island salmon); and a dessert (passion fruit panna cotta, caramelized pineapple brown butter cake, a chocolate trio featuring Mexican-spiced chocolate pot de creme, mini chocolate brownie and cherry parfait and chocolate-dipped strawberry, or a sorbet trio featuring pineapple ginger, strawberry, and blood orange and olive oil sorbets). The cost is $75. The Colby Hill Inn will also serve a chocolate lover’s brunch on Sunday, Feb. 13, for $45 per person, with seatings between 9 a.m. and noon.

The Common Man (25 Water St., Concord, 228-3463; 304 Daniel Webster Hwy., Merrimack, 429-3463; 88 Range Road, Windham, 898-0088; Lakehouse Grille, 281 Daniel Webster Hwy., Meredith, 279-5221; 10 Pollard Road, Lincoln, 745-3463; 21 Water St., Claremont, 542-6171; Foster’s Boiler Room, 231 Main St., Plymouth, 536-2764; 60 Main St., Ashland, 968-7030; Lago, 1 Route 25, Meredith, 279-2253; Camp, 298 Daniel Webster Hwy., Meredith, 279-3003; Italian Farmhouse, 337 Daniel Webster Hwy., Plymouth, 536-4536; Airport Diner, 2280 Brown Ave., Manchester, 623-5040; Tilt’n Diner, 61 Laconia Road, Tilton, 286-2204; 104 Diner, 752 Route 104, New Hampton, 744-0120; thecman.com) is taking orders for “Sweetheart Suppers To Go,” or three-course Valentine’s Day dinners for two, featuring crab cakes with roasted red pepper remoulade, tender short ribs and garlic butter shrimp scampi, and red velvet cake for dessert. Optional add-ons include four chocolate-covered strawberries or one of four Common Man wines (chardonnay, cabernet, merlot or pinot grigio). The cost starts at $74.95. Order by Feb. 6. Pickups will be on Sunday, Feb. 13, or Monday, Feb. 14.

Copper Kettle To Go (39 Main St., Wilton, 654-2631, copperkettletogo.com) is taking orders for special Valentine’s “date boxes,” which come with your choice of either a bottle of Champagne or a four-pack of craft beer, plus all the ingredients you’ll need to make gnocchi in alfredo sauce with spinach and two slices of cheesecake. The cost is $84.95 per box. All boxes will be ready for pickup on Saturday, Feb. 12.

Cotton (75 Arms St., Manchester, 622-5488, cottonfood.com) is taking reservations now for Valentine’s Day — they’ll open at 4 p.m. on Monday, Feb. 14, with their last seating at 8:30 p.m. Food and drink specials will also be served during dinner service on Friday, Feb. 11, and Saturday, Feb. 12.

The Cozy Tea Cart (Brookline, thecozyteacart.com) will hold a Valentine’s Day afternoon tea tasting on Sunday, Feb. 6, from 1 to 3 p.m. at the Gatherings at The Colonel Shepard House (29 Mont Vernon St., Milford). In addition to the teas, available items will include tea breads, tea sandwiches and sweeter options like chocolate-covered strawberries and milk chocolate tortes with Assam tea ganache. The cost is $39.95 per person and reservations are required.

CR’s The Restaurant (287 Exeter Road, Hampton, 929-7972, crstherestaurant.com) will be holding a weekend-long Valentine’s Day celebration, serving various specials in addition to its regular menus. The restaurant will be open on Friday, Feb. 11, from 11:30 a.m. to 2 p.m. and from 5 to 9 p.m. (with live music from 6 to 9 p.m.); Saturday, Feb. 12, from 5 to 9 p.m., and Monday, Feb. 14, from 11:30 a.m. to 2 p.m. and from 4 to 9 p.m.

The Crust & Crumb Baking Co. (126 N. Main St., Concord, 219-0763, thecrustandcrumb.com) is taking orders for cinnamon buns, scones, muffins, cupcakes, whoopie pies, frosted brownies, quiches (bacon cheddar or spinach, tomato and feta), cakes (chocolate strawberry mousse, french vanilla layer, double chocolate red velvet layer, flourless chocolate torte or cheesecake with fresh berries); and pies (apple streusel, chocolate cream or key lime). Order by Feb. 8. Pickups will be on Saturday, Feb. 12.

Cupcakes 101 (132 Bedford Center Road, Bedford, 488-5962, cupcakes101.net) is taking orders for chocolate-covered strawberries, chocolate-dipped Oreos, cake pop bouquets, hot cocoa bombs and other sweet treats, which will be available for pickup on or before Feb. 12.

Dahlia Restaurant (dahlianomadic.com) is teaming up with Loon Chocolate of Manchester for a special multi-course dinner that will be served at the shop’s new location at The Factory on Willow (252 Willow St., Manchester) at select times on Friday, Feb. 11, and Saturday, Feb. 12. Tickets are $145 and reservations are required. Go to dahlianomadic.com/events to book.

Dancing Lion Chocolate (917 Elm St., Manchester, 625-4043, dancinglion.us) has various bars, boxes, drinking chocolate sets and other items that can make great Valentine’s Day gifts. Online orders are usually shipped within three to five business days.

Daydreaming Brewing Co. (1½ E. Broadway, Derry, daydreaming.beer) is organizing a “Beer My Valentine” Derry brewery crawl on Sunday, Feb. 13, which will kick off at the brewery at 11 a.m., followed by visits to Kelsen Brewing Co., From the Barrel Brewing Co. and Rockingham Brewing Co.

Firefly American Bistro & Bar (22 Concord St., Manchester, 935-9740, fireflynh.com) has reopened for business as of Jan. 31 following a temporary closure due to interior renovations. They’ll be open from 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. on Monday, Feb. 14, serving their full lunch and dinner menus in addition to some Valentine’s Day specials. Reservations are strongly recommended.

Flag Hill Distillery & Winery (297 N. River Road, Lee, 659-2949, flaghill.com) will serve a special three-course Valentine’s Day dinner on Saturday, Feb. 12, at 7 p.m., including a wine pairing with the entree. The meal will include strawberry feta salad, your choice of a main course (pastrami-crusted bistro steak, roasted crab-stuffed sole or black bean street corn zucchini), accompanied by sweet potato and carrot puree and roasted asparagus, and a tangy goat cheesecake with fresh strawberries and whipped cream for dessert. Dinner reservations are $50 per person.

Frederick’s Pastries (109 Route 101A, Amherst, 882-7725; 25 S. River Road, Bedford, 647-2253; pastry.net) is offering several specialty treats for Valentine’s Day, like conservation heart cakes, double chocolate chunk cookies with hearts, fresh strawberry tarts, heart whoopie pie cakes, strawberry cake truffles and more.

Fresh AF Bakeshop (34 Church St., Unit 4, Kingston, freshafbakeshop.com) is taking orders for chocolate, strawberry or red velvet heart cakes, assorted Valentine’s Day macarons, cupcakes and cookie platters, chocolate-covered strawberries, and jumbo strawberry shortcake stuffed doughnuts. Order as soon as possible for pickup on Sunday, Feb. 13, from 8 a.m. to 2 p.m.

Gauchos Churrascaria Brazilian Steak House (62 Lowell St., Manchester, 669-9460, gauchosbraziliansteakhouse.com) is offering a Valentine’s weekend special from Friday, Feb. 11, through Monday, Feb. 14 (Gauchos is normally closed on Mondays but will be open on Feb. 14, from 4 to 9 p.m.). The special is $159 per couple and includes dinner, a long-stem red rose, a box of chocolates from Van Otis and a glass of Champagne for each person.

Giorgio’s Ristorante & Bar (270 Granite St., Manchester, 232-3323; 707 Milford Road, Merrimack, 883-7333; 524 Nashua St., Milford, 673-3939; giorgios.com) will be open extended hours on Monday, Feb. 14, at all three of its locations, from 11:30 a.m. to 9 p.m., serving their regular menus in addition to some Valentine’s Day specials.

Granite State Candy Shoppe (13 Warren St., Concord, 225-2591; 832 Elm St., Manchester, 218-3885; granitestatecandyshoppe.com) is offering a variety of specialty chocolates and candies for Valentine’s Day, like milk, white or dark chocolate heart boxes, Valentine malt balls, chocolate-dipped strawberries and more.

Greenleaf (54 Nashua St., Milford, 213-5447, greenleafmilford.com) is celebrating Valentine’s Day with a special four-course prix-fixe menu, to be served on Friday, Feb. 11, Saturday, Feb. 12, and Monday, Feb. 14. Courses will include scallop crudo, mushroom ricotta ravioli, roasted ribeye and a black sesame brownie, for $125 per person. Greenleaf’s regular dinner menus will additionally be available that weekend, on Feb. 11 and 12 only.

Huckleberry’s Candies (293 Lafayette Road, Hampton, 926-5061, huckleberryscandies.com) has a variety of specialty chocolates and candies for Valentine’s Day, including milk chocolate red foil lips or sour gummy lips, milk, white or dark chocolate heart pops, “cupid bark,” and chocolate “charcuterie” boards filled with assorted sweet selections.

LaBelle Winery Amherst (345 Route 101, 672-9898, labellewinery.com) will host “A Night of Romance,” a special three-course Valentine’s dinner, on Saturday, Feb. 12, from 6:30 to 9:30 p.m. in its Great Room. The meal will include a baby spinach salad with roasted acorn squash, crumbled goat cheese, pomegranate seeds, pine nuts and Seyval vinaigrette; your choice of an entree (baked stuffed haddock with shrimp stuffing, or molasses-braised short ribs with herbed beet polenta cake); and a dessert course featuring chocolate pot de creme, chocolate-covered strawberry, chocolate baton and chantilly cream. A glass of wine will be served with the first course, and a full bar will also be available for purchase throughout the evening. Tickets are $80 per person plus tax. LaBelle’s Amherst location is also hosting a “Valentine’s Day Experience” dining package on Monday, Feb. 14, with reservations slots opening at 4 p.m. ($50 per person), and a special wine and dessert pairing class for chocolate lovers on Wednesday, Feb. 16, from 6 to 7 p.m. featuring white chocolate mousse, milk chocolate pot de creme, dark chocolate brownies and chocolate cayenne truffles. Tickets to that event are $40 per person plus tax and reservations are required.

LaBelle Winery Derry (14 Route 111, 672-9898, labellewinery.com) is offering a “Valentine’s Day Experience” dining package on Monday, Feb. 14, with reservation slots opening at 4 p.m. Americus Restaurant’s full dinner menu will be available, in addition to Valentine’s Day specials, and there will be wine toasts, floral arrangements, and an opportunity to check out LaBelle Lights, the ongoing festive light display on LaBelle’s Derry property, after your meal. The cost is $50 per person for the full experience, or $15 if you just want to experience LaBelle Lights. LaBelle’s Derry location is also hosting a special wine and dessert pairing class for chocolate lovers on Wednesday, Feb. 9, from 6 to 7 p.m. featuring white chocolate mousse, milk chocolate pot de creme, dark chocolate brownies and chocolate cayenne truffles. Tickets to that event are $40 per person plus tax and reservations are required.

La Cascade du Chocolat (109 Water St., Exeter; 214 State St., Portsmouth, 777-5177; lcdcnh.com) is offering several seasonal sweets for Valentine’s Day, like bonbons, dark chocolate hearts, solid dark chocolate flower bouquet bars, and limited-edition roses and strawberries chocolate bars.

Martingale Wharf Restaurant & Bar (99 Bow St., Suite W, Portsmouth, 431-0901, martingalewharf.com) is taking reservations now for Valentine’s Day on Monday, Feb. 14 — they’ll serve a special dinner menu featuring options like beef short rib rangoons, togarashi tuna lettuce wraps, Delmonico rib-eye steak, Mediterranean mezzaluna pasta, vegetarian winter medley, braised pork shank, and red velvet lava cake.

Mile Away Venue (52 Federal Hill Road, Milford, 673-3904, mileawayvenue.com) will serve a special four-course dinner menu for Valentine’s Day on Monday, Feb. 14, with seatings at 5:30 and 7:30 p.m. Each meal includes your choice of an appetizer (escargots with garlic butter, jumbo shrimp cocktail or fresh fruit and sorbet); a classic wedge salad with blue cheese or ranch dressing; your choice of an entree (broiled filet mignon, haddock and scallops or chicken breast stuffed with sun-dried tomatoes); and your choice of a dessert (chocolate mousse cake, lemon mascarpone cake or cheesecake with wildberry sauce), along with chocolate-dipped strawberries. Each entree is also served with a twice-baked potato and butternut squash. The cost is $100 per person.

MT’s Local Kitchen & Wine Bar (212 Main St., Nashua, 595-9334, mtslocal.com) will be open on Monday, Feb. 14, from 4 to 9 p.m., serving some Valentine’s Day specials in addition to its regular dinner menu.

Nelson’s Candy & Music (65 Main St., Wilton, 654-5030, nelsonscandymusic.com) is offering a variety of specialty sweets and treats for Valentine’s Day, from traditional assorted heart-shaped boxes of chocolate to solid chocolate dinosaurs holding tiny hearts.

Pearls Candy & Nuts (356 S. Broadway, Salem, 893-9100, pearlscandynh.com) is offering a variety of specialty chocolates and candies for Valentine’s Day, like assorted milk chocolate heart lollipops, classic conversation hearts, gummy sour candy hearts, Cupid candy corn and more.

Presto Craft Kitchen (168 Amory St., Manchester, 606-1252, prestocraftkitchen.com) is taking orders for three-course meals to go for two, featuring your choice of an entree (sirloin Marsala with wild mushrooms over penne, filet roast over lobster risotto, heart-shaped ravioli, shrimp scampi over linguine or chicken Parmesan over penne). Each option comes with garlic bread, a Caesar or field green salad, and a half-dozen jumbo chocolate-covered strawberries for dessert. Presto’s sister company, Custom Eats & Sweets, is taking orders for giant breakable chocolate hearts, mini red velvet cakes topped with roses, Oreo cheesecake cakesicles, chocolate-covered strawberry cocoa bombs, chocolate-covered Oreos and more. Order by Feb. 6. Pickups will be on Friday, Feb. 11, and Saturday, Feb. 12.

Raleigh Wine Bar + Eatery (67 State St., Portsmouth, 427-8459, raleighwinebar.com) will serve a special four-course dinner menu with wine pairings all weekend long from Saturday, Feb. 12, through Monday, Feb. 14. Items to choose from will include Johns River oysters, potato millefeuille, endive salad, grilled quail, mushroom and truffle cannelloni, sea bass, magret duck breast, honey and yogurt semifreddo and dark chocolate torte. The cost is $98 per person or $132 with the wine pairings.

Red Beard’s Kitchen (968 Elm St., Manchester, red-beards-kitchen.square.site, and on Facebook @redbeardskitchennh) is taking orders for special three-course Valentine’s Day dinners to go for two, featuring marinated melon and prosciutto salad, your choice of either beef Wellington or lobster ravioli for an entree, and chocolate pate for dessert. The cost is $135 per order. Pickups will be on Saturday, Feb. 12, Sunday, Feb. 13, or Monday, Feb. 14, from 2 to 4 p.m. each day.

Sawbelly Brewing (156 Epping Road, Exeter, 583-5080, sawbellybrewing.com) will be open on Monday, Feb. 14, from 5 to 8 p.m., serving a special seven-course tasting menu with beer pairings. Items will include persimmon carpaccio, Nantucket Bay scallop crudo, roasted beet and bresaola, grilled local oysters, French onion soup, beef osso bucco, and profiteroles with a craquelin top, butternut squash ice cream and sea salt chocolate sauce. The cost is $80 per person and reservations are required.

Surf Restaurant (207 Main St., Nashua, 595-9293; 99 Bow St., Portsmouth, 334-9855; surfseafood.com) will be open on Monday, Feb. 14, from 4 to 9 p.m. at both locations, serving some Valentine’s Day specials in addition to its regular dinner menu.

Sweet Treats by Emilee (find them on Facebook @emileessweettreats) is taking orders for several specialty items for Valentine’s Day, including milk chocolate-dipped Twinkies, strawberry or dark raspberry chocolate-covered marshmallow lollipops, breakable chocolate hearts filled with assorted candies, milk or dark chocolate-dipped strawberry wafer cookies, and cocoa bombs in several flavors, from milk, white or dark chocolate to salted caramel, peanut butter and cookies and cream. Order by Feb. 4, for pickup at the Manchester Craft Market (inside the Mall of New Hampshire, 1500 S. Willow St., Manchester) on Feb. 6.

To Share Brewing Co. (720 Union St., Manchester, 836-6947, tosharebrewing.com) is offering special beer and chocolate pairings with selections from Loon Chocolate of Manchester, each day from Thursday, Feb. 10, through Sunday, Feb. 13, while supplies last.

The Utopian (135 Route 101A, Unit A1, Amherst, 315-9197, theutopiannh.com) will serve a special four-course tasting menu with wine pairings for Valentine’s Day on Monday, Feb. 14 — items will include bacon-wrapped maple scallops, lobster bisque with cauliflower puree, filet mignon with sun-dried whiskey-soaked cherry and acorn squash risotto, and a dessert platter for two featuring chocolate-dipped strawberries, mini cannolis, key lime tartlets and red velvet cake.

Van Otis Chocolates (341 Elm St., Manchester, 627-1611, vanotis.com) is offering a variety of specialty chocolates and candies for Valentine’s Day, like assorted chocolate gift boxes, custom chocolate-dipped Champagne bottles, chocolate tuxedo hearts and chocolate-dipped strawberries.

Zachary’s Chop House (4 Cobbetts Pond Road, Windham, 890-5555, zacharyschophouse.com) will be open on Monday, Feb. 14, from 3 to 9:30 p.m. for dine-in service only, and will be serving a few menu specials, like filet mignon topped with lobster meat and hollandaise, served with asparagus and mashed potatoes, and tomahawk rib-eye served with roasted potatoes and broccolini. Reservations are highly recommended.

Featured photo: Courtesy photo.

From the Midwest to Manchester

Squaloo’s BBQ opens inside Bunny’s Superette

Ira Street happened to be shopping in Bunny’s Superette in Manchester’s North End one day when a sign advertising a kitchen space for sale caught his attention.

“I started looking around and one of the cashiers told me it’s in the back of the store, and so I walked back there, met the prior owners and got to talking to them,” said Street, an Army veteran and Chicago native who came to the Queen City about five years ago. “I’ve been in the food industry for over 25 years. I’ve cooked basically everything, but I love barbecue and figured this would be something I’d be able to succeed at. … So we bought it and that’s how we started.”

Squaloo’s BBQ, now open for takeout and limited in-store seating, features a menu of fresh meats smoked daily — several items, like the rib tips and the hot links, are traditional barbecue staples of the Midwest. The eatery is named after Street’s childhood nickname.

Jerk chicken with rice and beans. Photo courtesy of Squaloo’s BBQ.

Starting at 1:30 p.m. six days a week, Squaloo’s BBQ accepts phone orders for pickup in addition to third-party deliveries through GrubHub and DoorDash. Meal plate options include a half slab of smoked ribs, a two-piece portion of fried chicken, and an open-faced pulled pork sandwich, each of which is served with french fries and a house-made coleslaw. One plate Street said he’s received positive feedback on out of the gate features smoked rib tips.

“They are a really big seller in a lot of the Midwestern cities,” he said. “The tip part of the rib comes from the top of the spare rib before they become St. Louis ribs.”

Hot links, or spicy smoked sausages, are also unique to Squaloo’s and very popular in and around Street’s home state — a hot link plate features two sausages per order, or, he said, you can get them on a combo plate with rib tips for a double dose of Midwestern barbecue.

For those with a sweet tooth, there’s also a fried apple pie that can come with a side of ice cream.

“It’s like an empanada, and I cook it to order,” Street said. “I deep fry it, take it out and add on a little bit of cinnamon sugar and caramel sauce.”

Other items include beef empanadas, a chicken tender plate, and a jerk chicken plate with rice and beans. Street said it’s possible that a few additional menu options may be making it onto the menu in the near future, like macaroni and cheese, collard greens and cornbread.

Squaloo’s BBQ

Where: 75 Webster St., Manchester (inside Bunny’s Superette)
Hours: Monday through Thursday, 1:30 to 8 p.m., and Friday and Saturday, 1:30 to 9 p.m. (closed on Sundays)
More info: Visit squaloosbbq.com, find them on Facebook and Instagram @squaloosbbq or call 232-7288. Ordering through DoorDash and GrubHub is also available.
Veterans and active military service members receive 10 percent off on their orders.

Featured photo: Wing dings and rib tip combo plate. Photo courtesy of Squaloo’s BBQ.

The Weekly Dish 22/02/03

News from the local food scene

Meet Robert Irvine: The host of Food Network’s Restaurant: Impossible, Robert Irvine will appear at the New Hampshire Liquor and Wine Outlet in Bedford (9 Leavy Drive) on Thursday, Feb. 10, from 2:30 to 4:30 p.m. to sign bottles of his Irvine Dry Gin and Irvine Vodka, according to a press release. Proceeds from sales of those spirits go to support military personnel and first responders, the release said.

Ready for kickoff: The Patriots may have been eliminated from the playoffs, but if you’re still planning on tuning in to the Big Game (Sunday, Feb. 13), some local eateries have you covered. Friendly Red’s Tavern (22 Haverhill Road, Windham) for instance, is offering party packs of 24 chicken wings with sauces, 16 potato skins with sour cream and 10 pretzel sticks with cheese sauce — orders will be accepted right through noon on the day of the game for onsite pickup. Email friendlyredstavern@gmail.com or call 437-7251. At Copper Kettle To Go (39 Main St., Wilton), platters are available for pre-order featuring your choice of steak and cheese and chicken Parm egg rolls with dipping sauces, or assorted snacks like potato skins, mozzarella sticks, jalapeno poppers and mango habanero wings, as well as Boston cream cake bombs. Order by Feb. 9, for pickup on Saturday, Feb. 12. Visit copperkettletogo.com.

Eat organic: Join the Northeast Organic Farming Association of New Hampshire for its 20th annual winter conference, to be held via Zoom over the course of several days from Sunday, Feb. 6, through Saturday, Feb. 12. Normally a one-day event with more than 40 interactive workshops, a keynote speaker and a Q&A session, the conference switched to a series of virtual events in 2021. The theme of this year’s conference is “collaboration and self-reliance,” with workshops that will cover a variety of topics such as community food security, agroforestry, beekeeping, organic seeding, edible garden growing and more. You don’t have to be an expert farmer or gardener to take part in them — anyone interested in learning about organic food practices is welcome to attend. According to NOFA-NH program coordinator Laura Angers, registration starts at $50 and includes access to all of the workshops, in addition to their recordings for three months after the conference if you miss any of them you wanted to view. Visit nofanh.org/winterconference for the full schedule of featured speakers, topics and times.

Mischief and cocktails: Save the date for Manchester’s Most Wanted, a special interactive event happening at the Millyard Museum (200 Bedford St., Suite 103, Manchester) on Thursday, Feb. 17, from 5 to 7 p.m. Actors from the Majestic Theatre will be portraying some of the Queen City’s most nefarious pre-Victorian era villains throughout an evening that will also feature appetizers, a cash bar and more. Tickets are $25 per person or $20 per Manchester Historic Association member (event is 21+ only) and include a complimentary cocktail and souvenir shot glass. Visit manchesterhistoric.org/events to register.

Capital City pies: After several months of construction, a new full-service dine-in restaurant featuring brick-oven artisan pizzas, appetizers and desserts made with local ingredients has arrived in downtown Concord. The New Hampshire Pizza Co. opened late last month in the former Crazy Goat space at 76 N. Main St., according to its website and social media pages, and also features local craft beers and specialty cocktails. It’s owned by Joel Harris, who also opened Dos Amigos Burritos, first in Portsmouth in 2003 and then in Concord four years later. “I’ve really come to love Concord … and I felt like full-service family-friendly brick-oven pizza would be a great addition to the city’s dining scene,” Harris told the Hippo back in August. Both traditional and specialty pies are available, in addition to gluten-free crusts and dairy-free options. The eatery is open Tuesday through Thursday, from 4 to 9 p.m., Friday and Saturday, from 4 to 10 p.m., and Sunday from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m., for brunch. Visit newhampshirepizzaco.com.

Curing the winter blues

Spoiler alert: Winter is long and cold

“I have the winter blues,” my wife said to me many years ago.

At the time, the phrase and concept was new to me and I was perplexed and largely unsympathetic.

“You’re sad because it’s cold?” I said.

Turns out that might not have been the best response. A hug may have been a better move.

I get it now though. Winter doesn’t really bother me in that it’s cold. Cold is OK by me. But while spring, summer and fall seem especially fleeting, winter just seems to carry on longer than it should, comparatively speaking. When you get to late January, not even the biggest ski bum on the planet could convince me they don’t think about warmer weather when scraping the ice off their windshield or taking the trash out on a bitter cold night.

That is quite enough complaining about the weather. The fact is winter is cold and long, and beer is the only cure.

During the coldest nights, I tend to find myself turning to higher-alcohol brews, big beers I can sip and savor as I let the alcohol warm me up from the inside out. Imperial stouts, barrel-aged brews and barleywines are just what the doctor ordered.

These are beers with layers of complex flavors that deserve your attention, and with plenty of alcohol to numb your senses to the cold.

I should add that these big beers are perfect for sharing. A whole pint of a 13-percent ABV brew is a lot, so find a friend who needs help with the winter blues, too.

Here are five big beers from New Hampshire to help you through the coldest stretches of the winter.

Erastus by Schilling Beer Co. (Littleton)

This Belgian-style tripel is just wonderful stuff, boasting a little peppery spice, some interesting fruit notes and a deliciously dry finish. This complex brew is one of my all-time favorites and I would drink this any time of the year but it’s perfect on a cold winter night. Erastus gives you plenty to consider as you sip. The fruitiness, coupled with the spice, is tasty and unique.

Fat Alberta by Throwback Brewery (North Hampton)

This is a chocolate peanut butter Russian imperial stout. Full stop. This is dessert in a glass with big notes of, you guessed it, chocolate and peanut butter. It’s so rich and so warming thanks to the 11 percent ABV — deliciously decadent. Enjoy this by the fire with or without a couple peanut butter cups.

Barrel-Aged RIS 2015 by Stoneface Brewing Co. (Newington)

This is another Russian imperial stout but this one is aged in bourbon barrels, which adds notes of oak and vanilla to an already flavorful and complex brew. At 9.5 percent ABV, the brew packs a punch but it’s still approachable compared to other bourbon barrel-aged brews that can exceed 14 percent ABV.

Quadracalabasia by Lithermans Limited (Concord)

This limited-release brew is a Belgian quadrupel that is brewed with roasted pumpkins and graham crackers. I haven’t had the pleasure of trying this incredible-sounding brew but I look forward to it. The brewery says the beer is “medium bodied and deeply complex with notes of plum, dark fruits and molasses.”

Ironside Barleywine by Kelsen Brewing Co. (Derry)

When it comes to big beers, Kelsen has cornered the market. Ironside is an English-style barleywine aged in brandy barrels for 18 months. The brewery describes it as “boozy and complex with notes of caramel, toffee, oak, vanilla and Werther’s candies.” Hello. This is exactly what I’m looking for when I’m completely sick of winter.

What’s in My Fridge

Modernism by Schilling Beer Co. (Littleton)

This Czech-style dark lager is tremendous, featuring notes of chocolate and coffee and a smooth, extremely easy-drinking package. The beer is a perfect example of how dark beers don’t have to be heavy. You’ll want another. Cheers!

Featured photo: Fat Alberta Chocolate Peanut Butter Russian Imperial Stout by Throwback Brewery. Courtesy photo.

Bruschetta with lemon honey ricotta

This recipe makes a simple but incredibly glamorous appetizer. As a bonus, it is an appetizer that is much better when made individually — by the people eating it. All that is required of you, the cook, is to prepare the ingredients and set them in serving dishes. Your guests will transform them from ingredients to a delicious snack.

Although one of the big selling points of this appetizer is the minimal amount of work required, I would be remiss not to tell you how delicious it is. This recipe is a Venn diagram of flavor and texture. It consists of salty, sweet and sour flavors, providing great balance. There are crunchy and creamy textures to make this appetizer even more appealing to your palate.

However, there is one caveat to the making of this bruschetta. You need to use good ricotta. There are two options for good ricotta. One, you can make your own. It may sound daunting; it really isn’t. You can find a simple recipe at my website, thinktasty.com, or elsewhere on the internet. Two, you can find a good cheese shop or Italian grocery store where they sell homemade ricotta. The stuff you find in a grocery store is fine when hidden under sauce or noodles. For this recipe you want better than fine.

Once you have the ricotta (and other ingredients) on hand, all that is required is about 10 minutes’ worth of work. Slice and toast the baguette. Zest and juice the lemon. Stir those items into the ricotta. Put everything on the counter. Let your fellow diners make their snacks!

Bruschetta with lemon honey ricotta
Serves 6

1 crusty baguette, approximately 10.5 ounces
16 ounces ricotta
1 medium lemon
Honey
Sea salt

Preheat oven to 400 degrees.
Cut baguette diagonally into 1/4-inch slices.
Place slices on the middle rack of the oven, and bake for 4 to 5 minutes or until golden brown.
Place ricotta in a small bowl.
Zest lemon; add to ricotta.
Juice lemon, removing any seeds, and add to ricotta.
Stir well.
Top each crostini with a hearty tablespoon of ricotta mixture.
Drizzle with honey.
Sprinkle with a flake or two of sea salt.

Photo: Bruschetta with lemon honey ricotta. Photo by Michele Pesula Kuegler.

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