All My Dead Cats and Other Losses, by s.e. smith

(HarperOne, 320 pages)

The business of burying a loved one is much different in Greece than in America. Because of the country’s size, there isn’t enough land to bury everyone, and so people typically rent grave sites for a few years, just long enough to allow for the decomposition of the body. Then, the bones are exhumed and interred in a building called a charnel house.

The writer s.e. smith grew up in Greece and had a father who thought a visit to a charnel house was a good way to pass time with a child.

“The ossuary was a tumble of boxes, some of which were actively breaking open or losing their plaques, decorated with moss and small plants if they were close to the entrance, green tendrils yearning for the sun,” smith writes. “It had a dark, earthy scent, thick under your tongue, an old-bone smell that I sometimes catch on the wind thousands of miles and decades away.”

Such is the promising beginning to All My Dead Cats and Other Losses, a meditation on“practicing good grief in a culture that fears mourning.” A lifelong lover of cats, the author frames the book around the instructive passing of an eclectic assortment of cats, then uses each story as a springboard to investigate some aspect of death, American style. “Each unique death told me something about myself and the culture I live in, even as it felt like the world passed me by, missing the moment,” smith writes.

There was, for example, Sofie the Sofa Cat, smith’s first cat, who became an important part of the author’s childhood after their parents separated, “becoming a constant in an inconstant life.” Sofie was hit by a car one day while smith was at school, and their father inexplicably gave the cat’s corpse to the driver who hit her for burial, which denied the chance for ceremony and closure. “Sofie was simply there in the morning and gone in the afternoon, but not gone in a definitive way that I could see and feel.”

From there, smith goes on to discuss, with reporting and interviews with various people, how children grieve and the ways in which we fail them by insulating them from death. “You do not forget your first dead body — human or animal — and the sense of absence that it projects, the spark of whatever made it alive gone, leaving something inert and somehow smaller than it was before. At any age it’s a jarring event. Does that mean it is one that should be avoided, shrouded in mystique? Or is it a moment in which children should be invited to participate — if they want — to ground their understanding of death in something present, real, and concrete?”

The quick and unexpected death of a cat named Mr. Bell allows smith to consider how sudden deaths affect us differently from drawn-out ones — “the freak event that forever changes our lives: the riptides and falls, the heart attack while mowing the lawn, the senior cat who has a seizure after a brief period of feeling unwell.”

In this chapter, smith leans into a lecture mode only hinted at previously, noting, for example, how “medical racism” is in part to blame for higher incidence of cardiac deaths among Black Americans, and how “structural inequalities” determine which people work in dangerous jobs. Both assertions may well be true, but the digression, and other similar ones that betray the author’s political leanings, detract from the overlying theme of “we’re all on a march to the grave” and need to better support each other in times of grief. It’s a small quibble, but one that some readers will note and dislike.

Beyond that, the transitions between dead-cat anecdotes and reporting are sometimes jarring, a departure from the lyrical and memorable writing that the author is clearly capable of. Smith’s story of witnessing the euthanasia of a cat named Leila can bring you to tears, and their subsequent musing on guilt associated with a death is tender and thoughtful. “We can poke and prod the dying seemingly indefinitely, if we want. We forget, sometimes, that just because you can doesn’t mean that you should, and that what is true for you, and works for you, is not universal.”

Then, we’re suddenly talking about the Affordable Care Act and spiritualism, and then encounter a sentence that looks like it was dropped into the book by an errant Walmart drone: “Even today, experimenting with Ouija boards is a classic rite of passage.”

Is it really? Who knows? Can you get back to Leila, please?

“But I digress” is a punchline, but it is all too often a stop sign in this otherwise beautiful book.

The author also digresses in a difficult-to-read chapter on volunteering at an animal shelter, discussing animals that are put down despite the prevalence of “no kill” shelters in the United States. But smith, who preserved pieces of their dead cats in urns and memorial jewelry, does a yeoman’s job in exploring the many layers of “It’s just a cat” — the central mystery of why an animal’s death affects people the way it does.

“He was just a cat. But also, he was a whole world,” the author writes while recounting a frantic trip to the animal emergency room with a cat named Loki howling in pain. “I am not alone in feeling like a bad person, or a cold one, for being more affected by the death of an animal than that of a human.”

All My Dead Cats and Other Losses is a very good book that could have been great with a bit more time and some strategic editing. As for the absence of dogs, dog lovers, do not worry; you will find community and solace here as well. B+

Featured Photo: All My Dead Cats and Other Losses, by s.e. smith

Album Reviews 26/10/15

Jess Williamson, A Mile South Of Heaven (Mexican Summer Records)

This country singer-songwriter has had plenty of success since leaving indie rock behind, which beckoned her to Los Angeles and away from the familiar surroundings of her native Texas, which made her think hard about what she really wanted out of life. Cut to now, when she’s finally comfortable with splitting her time between both places, and now that she’s settled in, her voice has become a marvel in a world of airy Kellie Picklers, falling somewhere between Loretta Lynn and Janis Joplin; it perfectly captures the dichotomy she’s been wrestling with since her emergence: One minute she’s waxing wistful/semi-regretful about her old life (“Hum Of The City”), the next she’s Chappell Roan-ing about the joys of being a simple country chick (“High Heels and Blue Jeans”), and all the while, producer Shooter Jennings is squeezing John Schreffler’s pedal steel for everything he can get. A marvelous record that couldn’t be more open-hearted. A+

Death Valley Girls, Welcome To Earth (Mexican Summer Records)

Here on the East Coast, we hear news stories about the seemingly endless fires in California and tend to think, “What, did the last one ever even stop?” But to Californians it’s personal; they know the whens and wheres, such as 2025’s Eaton Fire, a catastrophe that started in the San Gabriel Mountains and was blown by a powerful Santa Ana wind event into such towns as Altadena, which, it’s said, got the worst of it. This indie/post-punk band’s singer-leader Bonnie Bloomgarden lost her home to that fire, a disaster that’s covered here without any subtlety in the Cream-meets-Strawberry Alarm Clock-tinged “How Losing Everything in the Fire Taught Me to Love Myself,” a tune that’s appropriately morose, but elsewhere there be garage-party sounds that come off like The Go-Gos covering an Au Revoir Simone tune (the Lords Of The New Church-reminiscent “Basic Witch”) or vice versa (“Message From the Venus Flower,” in which Sarah Safaie’s saxophone jacks the ’80s vibe into the roof). Nothing in-your-face here but there’s undeniable energy. B+

PLAYLIST

A seriously abridged compendium of recent and future CD releases

• Friday, Oct. 16, will come and go largely unnoticed aside from the slew of new albums that will be blapped into the zeitgeist, the least interesting of which to me at least is COOKIE HAPPENED (yes, stylized in caps), the new album from Eels, which continues to be the indie-rock solo vehicle for Mark Oliver Everett of Los Feliz, California. Why am I such a jerk about Eels? Because I’ve never understood the appeal at all, which tracks, because I didn’t listen to any of “E’s” music until 2009’s Hombre Loco when I forced myself to review it, which came way after (and even his fans acknowledge this) the band’s peak, meaning his first two albums, a mini-streak that ended with 1998’s Electro-Shock Blues. That one cemented Everett’s legend as an edgy-beardy artist emerging just in time to dazzle Generation Awkward with innovative ways of exploring extreme grief (a couple of family tragedies in his case), which was nice and all, but he’s never really ever changed the formula (quiet-skronky-orchestral-rinse-repeat) in any significant way since. Obviously that isn’t to say he hasn’t been through some terrible stuff (including choosing the totally wrong women from time to time, of course) but it’d be super-great to hear something melodically captivating from him, given that his brand is soft-focused eclecticism with a Beach Boys falsetto. But sure, I’ll give the single “Cap In Hand” a shot, let me wait for YouTube to force-feed me the 9 billionth paid political ad I’ve been subjected to today from either John Sununu or Chris Pappas, which will of course be followed by an ad for the other dude who’s running to represent the Granite State in the U.S. Senate, can you even believe all this endless monstrousness every time you log on or turn on your teevee? Here we go. Oh come on, this tune sounds like a Guess Who graveyard-soul filler track from 1971 (by the way, that’s another criticism Eels fans often level against Everett, that his last 12 albums have been mostly filler), but at least his voice is more croaky and raggedy than ever, like it’s reminding me that I need to put cough drops on this week’s grocery list.

• The Avalanches are an Australian electronic band that specializes in “plunderphonics,” a genre in which music is created patchwork-style by slapping together samples of popular musical pieces (that’s different from a mashup, in case you’re older than 20). Whatever, these guys have a new album, No Bad Memories, spearheaded by the single “Far Away,” which seems fine to me, a crazy-busy drum ’n’ bass rinseout that samples Doug Firebaugh’s “Empty Canvasses” and slathers breakbeats over it, I don’t really mind it at all.

• British singer Rachel Chinouriri likes Lily Allen a lot, let me try to contain my excitement. Her new LP is titled I think I spoke too soon (yes, stylized in lowercase, in order to maintain balance in the universe, or at least in this week’s column). The single is “One Song Away From Crying,” a pleasant “P.Y.T.”-like bubblegum-makeout track that’s got a few interesting things going on with the overlays, though not enough to keep it from sounding like the typical background track you hear when a YouTube influencer is showing off all the free makeup swag she just received in the mail.

• We’ll close with Los Angeles indie band Dummy, whose new album Do You Love The Color Of The Sky includes the slacker-electro-dance single “Full Spectrum Dominance,” whose loopy wah-wah pedal beat gets old after the first minute. Did that sound grumpy, I can never tell.

Featured Photo: Jess Williamson, A Mile South Of Heaven and Death Valley Girls, Welcome To Earth

The Broomstick

Few foods are as divisive in these hard times as black licorice. Otherwise easygoing people will be taking part in a particularly nice conversation, complimenting your shirt, asking about your mother, discussing the possibility of rain, when somehow the topic will turn to black licorice. Their face will freeze in place momentarily. Their gaze will harden, their lip will curl, ever so slightly.

Then they will tell you how much they dislike black licorice. In great detail. It’s obviously an unpleasant topic for them, but there is something about black licorice that seems to require them to empty their soul on the topic. Their distaste for the candy will inevitably spread to you, as a sensible, licorice-loving person of taste and elan. It might take you days to regain your credibility in their eyes.

Nevertheless, here is a recipe for a highball that might satisfy both of you, allowing you to move on to less fraught topics, like religion, politics or the Red Sox:

  • 2 ounces golden rum
  • Juice of half a lime – about 1 ounce, plus whatever is left of that half-lime once you have finished squeezing it for everything it has to offer
  • 3 to 4 ounces fresh squeezed orange or tangerine juice
  • 1/2 ounce grenadine
  • Splash of club soda
  • For garnish — and this will just be a pretty, fruity drink without it — a black licorice swizzle

Over two or three ice cubes, in a tall glass — a Collins glass will work nicely for this — pour the lime juice over ice. Place the exhausted lime half on top of the ice, then cover with several additional ice cubes. Top with the orange or tangerine juice and a splash of soda to give it some bubbles. Stir gently with a long-handled bar spoon.

Pour a “slip” of grenadine down the sides of the glass. The inside of the glass. (After a few of these, we should probably have instructions as specific as possible.) Because the grenadine is denser than the drink around it, it will pool at the bottom of the glass, but not completely, giving a pink-ombre effect to the enterprise.

Take five or six black licorice twists, and pull them apart from one another. The vast majority of people making this drink will only require one, but in my particular case one of the pieces of licorice will look sub-standard in some way. Maybe it got a little stretched out as you pulled it away from the main body of licorice in the package. Perhaps you just see that it has a flawed character. In either case it needs to be disposed of. By eating it.

The next licorice stick might make it into the actual drink, but maybe it looks a little too bendy. The cold drink will stiffen it into that shape, which is clearly unacceptable, so it needs to be removed and disposed of. Also by eating it.

You might bite the end off each side of a licorice stick and try to use it as a straw, which — in my experience — does not work well. And now it looks funny and needs to be disposed of. Again, by eating it.

I can’t speak to your own level of swizzle competence, or licoriphilia, but you should probably be prepared to use all five licorice sticks.

Featured photo. Photo by John Fladd.

Small bites, big cause

Pink Tie Gala raises money for the American Cancer Society

The American Cancer Society’s annual Pink Tie Gala at the Phenix Hall in Concord is the sort of event where everybody feels fancy, attractive and generous, according to Kathy Russ, one of the evening’s co-chairs.

“It is black tie optional,” she said of the gala, which will take place Saturday, Oct. 17, starting at 7 p.m. “So there will be women in gowns, there will be men in tuxedos, some will have short dresses on, some people will just [be] men who will have suits on. But it is an opportunity to get dressed. We have a beautiful pink carpet that we stretch out down the side of Main Street on the sidewalk. And people come up and have their picture taken on the pink carpet before they go up to Phenix Hall.”

One reason the event can be so elegant and raise so much money for cancer research and support for cancer patients is based on the generosity of the people and businesses involved, Russ said.

“The cornerstone of this event — and this is our fourth year that we’re running the event — is that we get everything possible donated so that when people come, they feel very generous to the cause. For example, the venue is donated to us, and because it’s a private venue, we can bring in our own chefs who bring in the food and all the liquor, and the wine, and the beer is all donated, and the flowers are donated, and the tables, and chairs, and linen, and glassware is all donated.”

An important aspect of the evening is the food and drink, Russ said. Happy, well-fed people are more generous, which in turn helps the Pink Tie Gala reach its fund-raising goals.

“So there are small plates; there’s no sit-down rubber chicken dinner. The chefs from Revival Kitchen in Concord, O Steaks and Seafood, and Trenta Restaurant from Wolfeboro come … and they create small plates. For example, there will be seared tuna, and everybody loves duck, they all have a vegetarian option, and you can have as much of it as you’d like. And there’s an open bar,” she said.

Russi went into more detail about the Gala’s menu:

The FLIK Hospitality Group in Merrimack will serve spanakopita, vegetable pot stickers, hummus and vegetable cups, and charcuterie cups.

Revival Kitchen and Bar will present chilled Berbere spice seared tuna, Brussels sprout slaw, pickled green apple, and spiced pepitas, with a sweet ginger glaze. Their vegetarian dish will be a roasted pumpkin bisque with an apple-fig chutney.

Trenta Restaurant will serve char siu duck and stir-fried rice, with a Thai basil chili relish, and a vegetarian offering of cardamom vanilla parsnip shooters with pickled grapes and celery.

O Steak & Seafood will serve macaroni and cheese.

The Red Blazer and Catering by Design will provide assorted sweets.

The evening’s prizes and auction items are also fancy and/or food-related, Russ said.

“We have a live auction where we have some incredible things that are donated, like a seven-day European river cruise from AmaWaterways. And we also have a local artist that is making a painting that is of downtown Concord that is quite spectacular. We have tickets to Andrea Bocelli at the Boston Garden, which [brought on] a bidding war last year. We have a chef who donates her time and will do a cocktail party in someone’s home for 10 people.”

The Fourth Annual Pink Tie Gala
What: The event raises money for the American Cancer Society
Where: Phenix Hall, 38 N. Main St., Concord
When: Saturday, Oct. 17, from 7 to 11 p.m.
Tickets: $125 each, through the event’s website at e.givesmart.com/events/O2M

Featured photo: Courtesy photo.

Tradition!

Manchester’s downtown celebrates another restaurant week

At least once each year, the Palace Theatre in Manchester works with local restaurants to promote dining and the theater in a Restaurant Week. The restaurants and bars offer food and drink specials that are themed around a show playing at the Palace, and the theater promotes those restaurants.

“People have the reaction, ‘Hey! Dinner and a show!,’” said the Palace Theatre’s Katie Lovell. “This year there will be one Restaurant Week in the fall, so that’s coming up. Then we’ll do one in the winter as well, like we usually do. So this year we have two, and this one in the fall is tied to Fiddler on the Roof.”

Lovell said this production of Fiddler on the Roof will be a tribute to outgoing CEO and president of the Palace Theatre Peter Ramsey.

“He’s retiring in January, after 30 years,” she said. “Fiddler on the Roof is a show that he’s always wanted to do. [The Leadership Team] let him pick the whole season. And this was the one show that he said, ‘We have to do that. It will fit perfectly in the fall, and let’s tie it to Restaurant Week.’ So the theme is ‘Tradition and Taste.’ Restaurants are encouraged to come up with menus with that theme, whatever their interpretation of it is.”

Because of the change in seasons, most of the food and drink specials are more substantial, Lovell said, which is a good match for Fiddler on the Roof’s setting in a Jewish community in turn-of-the-last-century Russia.

“So the menus are coming in,” she said, “and it’s really, really exciting. We’re seeing a lot of braised short ribs, some people doing some latkes, I just saw fried feta. A lot of really interesting dishes that are going along with the ‘Tradition and Taste’ theme.”

Many of the participating bars and restaurants are within walking distance of the Palace, Lovell said. “Most are downtown. We have about 27 restaurants on board. We have a few in Bedford this year. And a few [in different parts of] Manchester, but mostly downtown.” One of the participating restaurants that is particularly exciting for her, Lovell said, is the Ash Street Inn. “Nick Provencher is the executive chef over there,” she said. “It’s a 12-person communal table. And every week they come up with a new menu, a new thing. So for these weeks they have the fall Tradition and Taste menu. So it’s a surprise — they won’t even tell me [what they’re serving]. But it’s going to be very, very elevated and special over there. It’s different from anything else you’ll get in the area. So I’m excited for that one. Clyde’s Cupcakes is doing a fun dessert and wine pairing. [They are] in the Queen City Center near Harpoon. So not everyone is doing a three-course menu. [It will vary], depending on the type of restaurant they are. At Industry East and 815 they’re each going to make a fun specialty cocktail with a dish with it.”

Nick Provencher, the chef at Ash Street Inn, said he has taken inspiration from the musical number from Fiddler on the Roof “If I Were a Rich Man.”

“We’re going to take that theme and run with it,” he said, “and kind of do some different stuff around Russian cuisine, which, especially around here, I’ve never even seen explored in any manner. We’re looking at [serving] an elevated version of Russian peasant food. So, you know, you’ve got a lot of root vegetables and stuff like that, but along with like some of those ideas and the classic cooking and the way they used to cook back introduced probably some more what they would define as like luxurious items alongside those kind of like peasant-dish ideas, in a fun little mix of the two.”

Restaurant Week
When: Thursday, Oct. 22, through Sunday, Nov. 1
Where: Restaurants in Manchester as well as one in Bedford
More info: palacetheatre.org/restaurant-week, where you can see the menu offerings of participating restaurants.
Participating restaurants: Thirsty Moose Taphouse ($38 menu); Diz’s Cafe (a two-entree $58 menu); Bravo ($28 lunch option; $58 three-course option); Fratello’s ($58 option); The Current ($58 menu); Evolution ($38 & $58 menu); Ben & Jerry’s; 815; Ash Street Inn; Industry East ($28 menu); Stark Brewing Co.; Hooked on Ignite; Harpoon (with a $38 menu); Campo Enoteca; Clyde’s Dessert & Wine Bar; Giorgio’s; 900 Degrees; Stash Box ($58 menu); Without ($38 menu); Piccola Italia Ristorante ($38 menu), and Evvivia Trattoria in Bedford (which has $28, $38 and $58 menu options). Some of the restaurants also have specialty offerings.

Featured photo: Courtesy photo.

The Weekly Dish 26/10/08

• Where to park when dining out: Looking for a parking spot in downtown Manchester so you can visit a restaurant? As reported in the Manchester Economic Development Office’s MEDO Minute newsletter (manchesternh.gov/Departments/Economic-Development/MEDO-Minute-Newsletter), the City of Manchester has a partially interactive parking map online to show where parking is generally available downtown, and the rates for parking there. There is real-time information for some parking garages that shows how full they are. Visit manchesternh.gov/Departments/Parking.

• Eat around the fire: From Thursday, Oct. 8, Averill House Vineyard (21 Averill Road, Brookline, 244-3165, averillhousevineyard.com) will offer Come Over October, an outdoor wine and food experience for up to eight guests around a fire table in the vineyard’s gazebo. Each ticket provides two adults and a child under 12 with a tasting of four wines, a wine slushy, or nonalcoholic beverages, and a charcuterie board for up to two adults (which can be expanded upon request). The price per ticket is $79. Check available time slots through the Averill House website.

• Sample and buy chocolate: The Chocolate Expo will take place Sunday, Oct. 11, from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. at the DoubleTree Expo Center in downtown Manchester featuring tastings and sales of chocolates and other specialty foods as well as craft beverages, according to thechocolateexpo.com, where you can purchase tickets.

• Thoughtful dining at Arts Alley: Tuesday, Oct. 13, Arts Alley (20 S. Main St., Concord, 406-5666, artsalleyconcordnh.com) will host an Art of Dining fall dining experience from 6 to 8:30 p.m. Guests will be guided through a curated selection of pairings, each chosen to complement the menu and enhance the progression of the dining experience. Each course will be introduced, giving guests a closer look at the creativity and thought that goes into every plate. Tickets are $81.88 through artsalleyconcordnh.com/events.

• Grapes you’ve never heard of: On Wednesday, Oct. 14, Wine on Main (9 N. Main St., Concord, 897-5828, wineonmainnh.com) will host a wine class on Unusual Grapes and Where to Find Them from 6:30 to 8 p.m. There are approximately 10,000 named grape varietals in the world, but relatively few are drunk in the United States. Many of them are consumed locally and not exported while others don’t yield enough wine to see the mainstream market. This class will discuss tracking down some of these less often seen grape varietals. Tickets are $35 through the Wine on Main website and include six wines, education and light snacks.

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