Album Reviews 22/08/04

JoVia Armstrong, Antidote Suite (Wild Kingdom Records)

The term Afrofuturism — referring to a “cultural aesthetic and philosophy of science and history that explores the intersection of African diaspora culture with science and technology” — was coined by culture critic Mark Dery, an on-again/off-again friend-acquaintance who’s been mad at me for like a year because I clumsily made fun of him on Twitter for his nerdy distaste for sports. Speaking of clumsy, the genre definition offered above — can’t we just say Afrofuturism is Black cyberpunk culture? no? — is a bit misleading as pertains to this album, which, if it’d come from anyone whose musical career hadn’t been borne of a, well, too-academics-driven approach to a life’s mission of spreading awareness about Black struggle in the Information Age, would be immediately classified as chilly, often beautiful but not earth-shakingly original soundscaping. Guests include bassist Isaiah Sharkey, guitarist Jeff Parker, vocalist Yaw Agyeman and rapper Teh’Ray Hale. There’d be no earthly reason for me not to recommend this to anyone; lots of interesting genre-mixing here. A+

Sator, Return of The Barbie-Q-Killers (Wild Kingdom Records)

Here we go, just what I needed right now, an old-school punk band from Sweden. And I do mean old-school; they’ve been together since 1981, originally under the moniker Sator Codex, which points to the Throbbing Gristle/Cabaret Voltaire niche they cite as an influence. Other than that, the record collections of the members’ youth were pretty standard: Motorhead, Chuck Berry, Ramones, Clash and such. Doesn’t matter, though. There are 24-count-’em songs crammed into this release, with most of the songs clocking in at around two minutes, which put it at an A grade before I even listened to any of it. The music is a blur of Misfits/Ramones gloriousness, opening with a punkabilly-tinged “Get Out Of My Way”; a Lords Of The New Church-sounding “Shimmy Shake,” even an obvious nod to New York Dolls in “Pumps, Purse And A Pillbox Hat.” From my seat there’s nothing wrong with this album whatsoever. A+

Playlist

• Gross, it’s freakin’ August already, it’s just going to be hot and insane out and then we’ll have those perfect September days with blue skies and a tinge of autumn in the air. So pleasant and nice, I hate it so much, but it’s on the way, and our first order of August business is to talk about the albums that’ll be in the stores and Pirate Bays and virus-slathered darkweb cubbies on Aug. 5. I usually try to get the least pleasant stuff out of the way first, and this week that’s definitely overrated Scottish club DJ Calvin Harris’s new album, Funk Wav Bounces Vol. 2. No, I’m not saying I mindfully loathe Harris; it’s just that when my journalistic beat was the velvet-rope techno-club scene, Harris was one of those tedious funk guys, and he bothered me the same way Steve Aoki did. Not enough progressive house in his mix, is what I mean; I really prefer progressive house over regurgitated Chicago-style house, which is too heavy on the disco (think Madonna’s “Vogue” for reference’s sake). OK, you’re staring at me wondering what I’m talking about, as if I even know; suffice to say that I’d rather listen to a deep house genius like King Britt than a lowbrow slob like Calvin Harris. And now that I’ve gotten that off my chest, you know what’ll happen next, I’m going to go listen to Harris’s new single “Potion” and it’ll actually be OK. But I doubt it; guest vocalists for this album include ridiculously overexposed lummoxes like Justin Timberlake, Halsey and Snoop Dogg, and — wait, here’s the video for “Potion.” It features corporate-pop diva Dua Lipa with Young Thug, and — yup, there it is breezy after-party music that’s too loud and in-your-face for an after-party. Yuck, it’s too disco-ey, possessed of basically no class. My God, my life would have been so much easier if I’d been born the type of imbecile who’d prefer this over Oscar G or whatever. No one should listen to this song, period. It’s got the vibe of the typical soundtrack to a 1970s porno movie. Barf barf barf.

• Uh-oh, look sharp everyone, it’s British sort-of-tech-metal heroes Kasabian, with The Alchemist’s Euphoria, their new album! If you’re wondering, yes (I just found this out for sure), they were named after Linda Kasabian, the former Charles Manson groupie, isn’t that special, and for the record, everything I’ve heard from them to date has been pretty cool. That brings us to the here and now, with a new song called “Scriptvre,” a noisy, trashy joint that’s a cross between Rage Against The Machine and Red Hot Chili Peppers’ “Give It Away.” Definitely something of a ’90s-rock-revival persuasion, which, let’s face it already, isn’t the worst thing that could happen, being that the current ’80s rebirth is well past its sell-by date.

• Blah blah blah what else — ah, here’s one, a new album titled All 4 Nothing, the second album from Lauv, a.k.a. Ari Staprans Leff, a San Francisco-born singer-songwriter! With a title as stupid as All 4 Nothing I’d expected the title track to dredge up memories of Marky Mark or something equally hideous, but it’s not quite that bad, that is unless the thought of an Auto-Tuned Peabo Bryson makes your stomach a bit unstable. Nothing to see here, folks, just a smooth bedroom beat, a millennial whoop thrown in to stupid-check Leff’s target audience, etc. It’s listenable.

• We’ll end with a new live album from ancient folk-pop mummy and dreadful singer Neil Young, Noise & Flowers, I can’t wait, can you? All I know right now is there’s a live version of the tune “From Hank To Hendrix” that’s pretty good if you can get past that wounded-possum voice of his, ack ack.

If you’re in a local band, now’s a great time to let me know about your EP, your single, whatever’s on your mind. Let me know how you’re holding yourself together without being able to play shows or jam with your homies. Send a recipe for keema matar. Message me on Twitter (@esaeger) or Facebook (eric.saeger.9).

A bee walks into a bar…

“Hey, Susan.”

“Evenin’, Alice. The usual?”

“Please. Busy night?”

“Well, you know how it goes; everyone’s busy — kinda part of the job description — but they’re not busy here at the moment. What about you? Looks like you’ve had a rough one.”

“Ugh. You wouldn’t believe the day I’ve had. You know Sylvia? The worker on Level Three? Yeah, anyway, she came in with a story about a case of strawberries that fell off the back of a truck and got smashed all over the highway. It sounded like a sweet gig — all the sugar, half the flying — so I shot out of here and went to find it.”

“Sounds like a plan.”

“Yeah, but I’m such a freakin’ genius that I didn’t wait around and watch her whole dance. It turns out she’s got a bit of an accent on account of she’s missing part of her left foreleg and I got the directions muddled. I ended up downtown at a dumpster behind a burger joint.”

“Oof! Sorry.”

“Well, it wasn’t so bad. It turns out there was a library about a block away with a window box full of geraniums, so I ended up meeting my quota.”

“That’s our girl! You always come through for us in the clutch.”

“Yeah, thanks, but it’s not getting any easier. I’m not two weeks old anymore.”

“Her Imperial Majesty should be pleased.”

“The Queen? Yeah, I hope so. You know, I met her once.”

“Really?”

“Yeah, she’s really nice. Turns out her name is Betty. She likes showtunes.”

“Really? I’d’ve figured her for classical.”

“Nah! Our Betty’s real down-to-earth.”

“She’d kinda have to be, though; she doesn’t fly anymore — not since her mating flight. Wow! That was somethin’, huh?”

“I’ll have to take your word for it; a bit before my time, I’m afraid. Hey, set me up with another one, would ya, please?”

The Bee’s Knees

This is a classic cocktail from the 1920s. “The bee’s knees” was a catchy slang term of the time, describing something that was truly excellent, like “the cat’s pajamas” or “the elephant’s instep.” Not surprisingly, this is honey-based.

This is a type of drink I call a Basic Utility Cocktail. Margaritas, gimlets and classic daiquiris all follow a very similar recipe: roughly two ounces of a basic alcohol (blanco tequila, rum, gin, vodka, etc.), an ounce or so of syrup or sweet liqueur (this is where the triple sec or Grand Marnier would come into play in a margarita), and an ounce or so of a sour fruit juice (usually lemon or lime juice, but I’ve used cranberry juice, too). If you find yourself with too much fruit, it’s really easy to make it into a syrup to use in a seasonal drink. (Cucumbers work surprisingly well.)

Ingredients:

  • 2 ounces very cold gin – depending on what type of honey you use, you might want to use something a little bracing and not too expensive. I’ve been enjoying Wiggly Bridge lately.
  • ¾ ounce honey syrup (see below)
  • ¾ ounce fresh squeezed lemon juice

Combine all ingredients over ice in a shaker.

Shake ever so hard, long enough for your hands to start hurting from the cold.

Strain into a small, stemmed glass — a coupé glass, maybe.

This is a seductive cocktail. The sweetness of the honey syrup contrasts with the acidity of the lemon juice. The gin adds a slight harshness to the background that keeps this drink from becoming frivolous. It is absolutely delicious, and the colder it is the more you find yourself wondering where your drink went, then making another. Appropriately for a bee-themed drink, this is a social cocktail; it facilitates conversation.

Honey Syrup

Bring equal parts honey and water to a boil over medium heat.

Let the mixture boil for a few seconds, to make sure that the honey is completely dissolved.

Cool and bottle. Store indefinitely in your refrigerator.

Featured photo. Courtesy photo.

Peanut butter truffles

Hello, August! Today I have a slightly messy, lightly chilled treat for you. In full disclosure, the messiness is part of the making and possibly part of the eating, but they are oh so worth it.

These peanut butter truffles are a delicious combination of creamy and crunchy, as well as sweet and salty. They are also the easiest truffles to make but sound and taste like they are much more complicated.

When making these truffles, there are a few key notes. The cream cheese should be the whole-fat version. You want the truffles to be creamy, and regular cream cheese is just what this recipe needs. Also, I prefer milk chocolate for my truffles, but you could use semi-sweet chocolate for the coating, if you like. For the preparation, forming the peanut butter mixture into spheres can be a little messy. The cream cheese actually helps the peanut butter be less sticky, but you could coat your hands with some nonstick cooking spray to help. Finally, when dipping the peanut butter balls into the chocolate, you want to move quickly to prevent melting. However, be sure to take the time to remove excess chocolate, so you (1) have enough chocolate for the entire batch and (2) don’t have ill-formed truffles.

When eating these truffles, the coating will soften with heat. So, if it is a hot August day, I highly recommend eating them indoors with a napkin nearby. I am pretty sure you are going to find them to be worthy of the sticky fingers!

Peanut butter truffles
Makes 20

1½ ounces cream cheese, softened
⅓ cup creamy peanut butter
½ cup powdered sugar
2 Tablespoons chopped salted peanuts
1 4-ounce milk chocolate baking bar

Combine peanut butter and cream cheese in a medium bowl, beating until fully combined.
Add sugar and stir to combine.
Add peanuts, stirring until well blended.
Shape batter into 1-inch balls; place on a waxed paper-lined plate.
Freeze for 15 minutes.
Place chocolate in a small bowl and microwave in 15-second increments, stirring after each, until fully melted.
Line another plate with waxed paper.
Place one peanut butter ball in melted chocolate.
Using a fork, flip to coat all sides.
Scrape tines against the edge of the bowl to remove excess chocolate, and transfer the truffle to the new plate.
When all truffles are coated, refrigerate for 10 minutes to allow chocolate to harden.
Refrigerate in a covered container until ready to serve.

Featured Photo: Peanut butter truffle. Photo by Michele Pesula Kuegler.

In the kitchen with Ira Street

Ira Street of Manchester is the chef and owner of Squaloo’s BBQ (75 Webster St., Manchester, 232-7288, squaloosbbq.com), a mostly takeout barbecue eatery that opened inside Bunny’s Superette in December. An Army veteran and Chicago native, Street has been working in the food industry for more than 25 years. Squaloo’s, named after his childhood nickname, features a menu of fresh meats smoked daily — several items, like the rib tips and the hot links (spicy smoked sausages), are traditional barbecue staples of the Midwest. Other options include beer can barbecue chicken, fried catfish, jerk chicken, and brisket on weekends, as well as fried apple pie with a side of ice cream for dessert. Since opening its doors, Squaloo’s has joined forces with several other local businesses — they now offer a special catering menu in collaboration with The Potato Concept (thepotatoconcept.com), and also recently held their first barbecue pop-up event at Mountain Base Brewery (553 Mast Road, Goffstown).

What is your must-have kitchen item?

I need my carving knife and my French knife.

What would you have for your last meal?

My last meal wish would probably be brisket, with a side of ribs. I love spare ribs.

What is your favorite local restaurant?

I would love to give a shout out to Backyard Brewery [& Kitchen] on Mammoth Road [in Manchester]. Besides my food, I think it’s the best food in town.

What celebrity would you like to see ordering from your restaurant?

It’s between Denzel Washington and Dennis Rodman. … Denzel is one of my favorite actors, and then Dennis Rodman, when he helped [the] Chicago [Bulls] win those last two championships, he became one of my favorite people.

What is your favorite thing on your menu?

That would probably be the jerk chicken … because I put so much time into it, and the finished product is so good to me. There are so many herbs and spices that go into it.

What is the biggest food trend in New Hampshire right now?

Thai. I feel like there are a lot of Thai places popping up.

What is your favorite thing to cook at home?

My go-to at home, when I’m feeling it, is homemade pepper steak and rice.

Chef Ira’s homemade pepper steak
From the kitchen of Ira Street of Squaloo’s BBQ in Manchester

1 round steak, cubed
1 each red and green pepper, cubed
1 sweet onion, cubed
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 teaspoon ginger, minced
1 Tablespoon cornstarch
1 teaspoon cooking oil
⅓ cup water
Salt and pepper to taste

Heat one teaspoon of oil over medium heat. Add peppers and onions and cook for three to four minutes. Place on a plate. Add steak to the pan and cook until brown. Add garlic, ginger, peppers and onion to the pan. Mix cornstarch with the water and add to the pan. Cook for 10 to 12 minutes and serve over rice.

Featured photo: Ira Street, chef and owner of Squaloo’s BBQ in Manchester. Courtesy photo.

Italian inspired

Pelham pastry chef takes over Nashua’s Riverwalk cafe

Life sometimes has a funny way of coming back full circle — at least that’s been the case for Rachel Manelas. The Pelham native and internationally experienced pastry chef frequented downtown Nashua’s Riverwalk Cafe & Music Bar while a student at Bishop Guertin High School, never once thinking she would someday take over the spot as owner.

Earlier this year, after studying abroad in Florence, Italy, and launching her own successful home baking business, Manelas purchased the Nashua storefront from longtime owners Steve and Jane Ruddock. She has big ideas for the storefront — now known as Riverwalk Bakery & Cafe — that will include an expanded focus on scratch-made pastries, as well as future plans for an evening menu, all while continuing to offer fresh breakfast and lunch options and house-roasted coffees. An adjoining space that recently became available will soon be home to a larger kitchen.

“I want it to be the place you go to before you go out,” said Manelas, a baking and pastry arts graduate of Johnson & Wales University who went on to attend Italy’s Florence University of the Arts. “In Italy, there’s a concept that I love that’s called aperitivo, where you can get a drink and a small plate or bite of food in the afternoon, and it’s kind of like a happy hour special. … It also helps people be able to taste things that might be different from what they’d been coming in here for. So my goal is to really try to get into a place where we can do that, and hopefully have more room in the new kitchen for experimentation with different foods and pastries.”

After completing her bachelor’s program a year early, Manelas spent the summer of 2019 in Florence, where she “fell in love” with the country and ended up staying longer than the two months planned. In late February 2020 she flew back home to join her family for a vacation, with the goal to return to Italy a week later — Covid, of course, had other plans.

“They canceled my flight and closed the borders. I had left everything there, my laptop included,” Manelas said. “Five months later I got to go back, but within that time frame, I kind of said, ‘OK, I don’t know when they’re going to open the borders again, I need to do something.’”

Around April 2020, while working as a line cook at Windham Junction, she started an online bakery through Instagram called Life’s What U Bake Of It. That business has since evolved into a website with its own online ordering system for specialty cakes, freshly baked cookies, themed French macarons and more — pickups for all of those items are now available at Riverwalk.

The cafe’s regular breakfast and lunch menus have largely remained the same, though Manelas has added her own items here and there, like a smashed avocado toast on fresh sourdough bread with cherry tomatoes, feta cheese and sunflower seeds. Coffees are still roasted in house every week using an old-school Turkish drum roaster, and Manelas is continuing to build on the pastry side — she recently added cinnamon rolls to the menu on the weekends.

“I would also love [for us] to make our own croissants. I used to make them every day in Italy and they are really, really good when they are made from scratch,” she said.

In late 2019, Riverwalk transitioned away from a ticketed live music venue in favor of a more community-focused coffee house and cocktail bar. Manelas said she plans to carry on that vision — a rotating selection of cocktails is available as part of her aperitivo concept.

“I just want it to be a nice meetup place in a casual setting, because it’s such a part of the culture out in Italy … and that was the culture that I fell in love with,” she said.

Riverwalk Bakery & Cafe
Where: 35 Railroad Square, Nashua
Hours: Monday through Thursday, 7 a.m. to 3 p.m., and Friday through Sunday, 7 a.m. to 6 p.m.
More info: Visit riverwalknashua.com, find them on Facebook and Instagram @riverwalknashua or call 578-0200

Featured photo: Photos courtesy of Riverwalk Bakery & Cafe in Nashua.

Starring the sandwich

City Hall Pub now open in Manchester

Gourmet deli-style sandwiches and craft cocktails are the stars of the menu at City Hall Pub, a new eatery now open in downtown Manchester’s theater district. The latest addition to Southern New Hampshire Hospitality Group, which also owns Mint Bistro, The Wild Rover Pub and Elm House of Pizza — the latter opened on the southern end of Elm Street early last year — City Hall Pub lies directly across the street from its namesake, sporting a uniquely rustic interior look.

Like Elm House of Pizza before it, City Hall Pub inherits a space long used by favored local eateries of the past — most recently, it was a gourmet grilled cheese restaurant and whiskey bar called Cheddar & Rye. Before that it was Tiya’s, a popular Thai restaurant, for several years.

hamburg sandwich on bun, on plate beside bowl of salad
Photos courtesy of City Hall Pub in Manchester.

“We’ve really liked a lot of what we’ve been seeing on Hanover Street … and had an opportunity to open a business in a room that I’ve certainly loved over the years, way back to being Tiya’s,” co-owner Tim Baines of Southern New Hampshire Hospitality Group said. “So we wanted to add to what is already a lot of great things going on in the area of downtown … and create a community space where people from all walks [of life] can feel comfortable and gather.”

At a seating capacity of nearly 100, the pub features everything from a renovated back bar to various booths, low- and high-top tables, a larger community table and an outdoor patio.

Along with presenting City Hall Pub as a gathering space, Baines said the eatery’s deli sandwich concept was born out of a desire to bring more lunch options to downtown Manchester.

“We definitely saw a demand for more lunch options in the downtown [area] … and we pride ourselves on being open seven days a week, for both lunch and dinner,” he said.

Out of the gate, Baines said the build-your-own sandwich option has been especially popular. You have five types of bread to choose from — ciabatta, sourdough, a pretzel bun, a whole-wheat wrap or a gluten-free wrap — and can load them with turkey, honey ham or roast beef. The customization goes even further when you add your favorite type of cheese — cheddar, Swiss, mozzarella, American or Gorgonzola — and other toppings, like lettuce, tomato, red onion, pickles or cucumber; and condiments or spreads, like garlic mayonnaise, pesto or honey mustard.

pretzel rolls on plate with 2 types of sauces
Photos courtesy of City Hall Pub in Manchester.

If you aren’t that picky, try one of the pub’s specialty sandwiches. The Thai soy chicken wrap and the City Hall burger have been among the top sellers, Baines said — the latter is topped on a pretzel bun with mixed greens, roma tomatoes, red onions and your choice of cheese.

“The City Hall burger has been the most popular item by far,” he said. “Seeing the success of the burger, we’re actually going to be doing a menu revision … and expand on the burger options.”

Non-sandwich options include various soups, salads, chilis and chowders, as well as appetizers, like a spinach queso dip with pita chips, and a hummus and vegetable platter. The full food menu is available until 10 p.m. seven nights a week, while the bar stays open for a few more hours.

On the drinks side you’ll find everything from bottled and draft beers and red and white wines to an extensive classic and specialty cocktail list. Baines said live local jazz music is currently featured at the pub every Thursday night from 7 to 10 p.m., and there are plans to expand the live music schedule in the coming months.

City Hall Pub
Where: 8 Hanover St., Manchester
Hours: Sunday through Thursday, 11:30 a.m. to midnight, and Friday and Saturday, 11:30 a.m. to 1 a.m. (kitchen stays open until 10 p.m., seven days a week)
More info: Visit cityhallpub.com, find them on Facebook @cityhallpubnh or call 232-3751

Featured photo: Photos courtesy of City Hall Pub in Manchester.

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