Drinks with John Fladd: The Paisley Jane

The Paisley Jane

At the risk of oversharing, it seems like when it comes to decision-making I have two settings: overthinking or not thinking at all.

Throughout my life, a series of exasperated parents, bemused drill sergeants and my long-suffering wife have asked me, in varying degrees of anxiety, “What were you THINKING!?” To which, I only have one answer: “Uhhh… what?”

And then, there’s the other extreme.

Sometimes, without warning, I will fall down a rabbit hole of obsession, hyper-focusing on some objectively trivial matter. Last week, after watching a movie where one of the characters had to go on the run and retrieved a “go bag,” I spent hours thinking about what would go in my go bag, how much of what currency should go in it, and how I could inconspicuously buy everything I needed with untraceable cash. Never mind that I would probably never need to flee anywhere, or that I’m too fundamentally lazy and timid to do it if I had to; the fact remains that I spent hours working out an elaborate escape plan. (The secret is to include a Flowbee in the bag, so I can shave my head in a convenience store bathroom, then grow a beard, to blend in with all the other aging hipsters.)

And then, there’s the orgeat. Orgeat (supposedly pronounced “Oor-Jot”) is an almond syrup that is used a lot in tropical drinks to add depth and a sweet fruitiness to the background flavor. I’m mostly alone in this, but I think it tastes a bit like maraschino cherries. People with a more sophisticated palate than mine get very particular about their orgeat, saying that the cheap stuff tastes “artificial.” (I kind of like “artificial”, but they do have a point. The more chi-chi stuff definitely tastes more sophisticated.)

Some people will even go so far as to make their own orgeat.

[There… Right there… Did you hear it? The ominous music in the soundtrack as I start to overthink things?]

I was reading recipes for homemade orgeat — some simple, others much more complex and involved — when I started to wonder about making it from pistachios, rather than almonds. This led to more research than I can really justify, and several trips to the store, for ever-larger amounts of raw pistachios.

In the end, here’s what I came up with:

Pistachio Orgeat
Equal parts, by volume:
• sugar
• water
• raw, shelled pistachios

1. Chop the pistachios in a blender
2. Boil the sugar and water together to make a simple syrup
3. Steep the pistachio crumbs in the syrup for several hours
4. Strain the pistachio solids out, then squeeze

The Paisley Jane
• 2 slices of cucumber
• ½ oz. unsweetened pomegranate or cranberry juice
• 1½ oz. vodka
• 1½ oz. pistachio orgeat
• ½ oz. full fat plain yogurt
• Exactly 3 drops rose water (seriously – no more, no less. Trust me on this.)
• A pinch of sumac powder for garnish (Not optional. See below.)

1. Place the cucumber slices at the bottom of a cocktail shaker, then top them with ice. If you do it this way, you don’t have to muddle or bruise the cucumber. The ice will do it for you.
2. Add all the other ingredients except the sumac.
3. Shake vigorously for longer than you think you actually need to. Remember that you are throwing down a beating on the cucumbers.
4. Strain over ice into a rocks glass or an Old Fashioned glass.
5. Top with a generous pinch of sumac.

A note on sumac: Sumac is a Middle Eastern spice that has a distinct, sour, astringent note to it. It is one of the garnishes called for in the original Hazy Jane recipe. Without it, this pistachio version is missing something. You can buy sumac at any Middle Eastern grocery store or online.
You have to be somewhat obsessive to try this, but the good news is that you won’t have to drastically change your appearance.

Featured photo: Paisley Jane. Photo by John Fladd.

In the kitchen with Dave Mielke

Dave Mielke of Amherst and his father Harold opened Smokehaus Barbecue (278 Route 101, Amherst, 249-5734, smokehausbbq.com) together in May 2018. The duo joined forces late the year before, completely rebuilding and redesigning the inside of the former Burger Mill restaurant on Route 101 themselves to give it its rustic look. Smokehaus is open six days a week for lunch and dinner, offering a menu of low-and-slow smoked meats available as sandwich or dinner plate options, from beef brisket and baby back ribs to pulled pork and pulled chicken, as well as fresh sides like collard greens, baked beans and coleslaw, and all types of house-made dry rubs and sauces. The eatery also carries regular offerings from several local craft breweries.

What is your must-have kitchen item?

An immersion blender. We make a lot of sauce with it. We probably make around 25 gallons of barbecue sauce a week, so it gets used quite often.

What would you have for your last meal?

My last meal would be schnitzel and German potato salad. My mom makes that for me every year for my birthday.

What is your favorite local restaurant?

Papa Joe’s Humble Kitchen [in Milford]. Those guys are great. In my opinion, they’ve got the best burgers in the entire state.

What celebrity would you like to see eating at your restaurant?

Adam Sandler. If he was in town, I would be absolutely happy with my life at that point. He seems like a down-to-earth guy, plus he’s local.

What is your favorite thing on your menu?

That would be the fatty brisket. We’re one of the few barbecue places that has fatty and lean brisket. You can get it as a sandwich or a plate. My two sides of choice would be the collard greens, which are my mother-in-law’s recipe, and the coleslaw.

What is the biggest food trend in New Hampshire right now?

I really see sustainability itself as a trend. A lot of places opening up are utilizing local farms as much as they can. People are really starting to see how important it is to help our local businesses thrive.

What is your favorite thing to cook at home?

I make a really excellent pho. My son loves it with Vietnamese meatballs.

Sweet bourbon barbecue sauce
From the kitchen of Dave Mielke of Smokehaus Barbecue in Amherst (quantities are for large batches; cut measurements down in half for smaller batches)

8 cans Murphy’s stout
3 cups bourbon
16 cups ketchup
½ cup onion powder
½ cup garlic powder
½ cup red pepper flakes
4 cups brown sugar
1 cup molasses

Combine all ingredients in a large pot. While stirring, bring to a boil until all alcohol is cooked out (roughly 45 minutes). Let cool and enjoy.

Featured Photo: Dave Mielke of Smokehaus Barbecue in Amherst, with his dad, Harold. Photo by Matt Ingersoll.

Tastes of home

Copper Kettle To Go opens in Wilton

Chris and Megan Gordon really want you to feel at home inside their new Wilton cafe — they’ve even added their own kitchen table to the main dining space. But Copper Kettle To Go in Wilton, which quietly opened its doors on Sept. 17, is more than just a cafe. It’s also a grocery shop offering take-and-bake meals and a downstairs taphouse featuring a rotation of local brews.

Even though much of their preparation for the new cafe has taken place amid the pandemic, Chris Gordon said he and his wife, who previously owned the Copper Kettle Bakery in Brookline, have taken it in stride. After all, their mission from the beginning was to bring families back together around the dinner table at home with their offerings, which include pastas and sauces, fresh baked goods, spinach pie and other comfort meals.

“We wanted to bring something to the community here that we knew we were missing,” he said. “It’s difficult to find fresh vegetables that are already prepared and food that’s cooked in heartier meals, or just basic things like a nice homemade spaghetti sauce. … I think that one of the things with Covid that’s actually been almost a positive thing for us was that it taught people that our business model can exist and that it can be strong.”

If you’re visiting the space, which is directly across from the Wilton Town Hall Theatre on Main Street, just to shop, you don’t have to leave the upstairs level of the cafe. There are several designated areas across the space, including for raw meats, fresh produce, and seasonings and spices. A refrigerated case is stocked with prepared dinners in 8×8 or 13×9-sized pans (including comfort items like macaroni and cheese and chicken pot pie), plus dairy products like butter and cream and a small selection of canned beers. Across the room, a pantry section features various nonperishables like boxed pastas and rice.

“The floor plan was designed in a free-flowing path, with signs above that categorize everything, sort of similar to a grocery store,” Gordon said.

But if you’re sitting down to enjoy a meal, there’s space for that too. Gordon said a few lunch and dinner menu items are available for diners of either the upstairs cafe or downstairs taphouse. They’ll likely change all the time, with a few constant offerings, like the Bennington Railrolls, named after the Milford-Bennington Railroad behind the building.

“They are steak and cheese egg rolls served with a garlic aioli, and they’ve been our leading seller,” he said. “Nearly every customer ordered them when they came in the first week.”

Other recent items have included loaded baked potato soup; shepherd’s pie; a grilled vegetable sandwich on a sub roll, served with summer squash, zucchini, peppers, onions and mayonnaise; a pulled pork sandwich on a sesame seed bun with barbecue sauce from Tim’s Drunken Sauces & Rubs; a BLT with hand-cut smoky bacon, lettuce and tomato, served on rye or white bread; and a pot belly burrito with cilantro lime rice, wrapped and smothered in enchilada sauce with cheese and house espinaca on top.

“We’ll roll something out all the time that’s new, fresh and exciting,” Gordon said. “We’re big-time foodies, and we love nothing more than to bring something new in. So you can expect the menu to change quite frequently.”

Visitors can also venture downstairs to the taphouse, which includes additional seating on wooden bar tables Gordon built himself. Eight taplines, many representing local breweries like Henniker Brewing Co., Laughing Crow Beer in Amherst, 603 Brewery in Londonderry, Concord Craft Brewing Co. and the Contoocook Cider Co., are expected to rotate periodically.

“We’ll definitely keep the juicier IPAs in here, and then maybe bring out some porters or stouts in the winter months and some more lighter stuff as we get warmer again, to really match the seasons,” Gordon said. “Just like our food menu, it will be a really free-flowing kind of thing.”

A door from the taphouse leads outside to a deck overlooking the Souhegan River. Gordon said both the taphouse and the deck are also available to rent for private events or functions.

Copper Kettle To Go
Where
: 39 Main St., Wilton
Hours: Wednesday, 11 a.m. to 7 p.m., and Thursday through Sunday, 11 a.m. to 9 p.m.
Visit: copperkettletogo.com

Featured photo: Loaded baked potato soup. Photo courtesy of Copper Kettle To Go.

Safely served

Drive-thru and to-go food festivals across New Hampshire

Despite the absence of traditional food festivals and fairs this year, organizers are reimagining events as drive-thru or to-go only in an effort to promote social distancing. Several of them will be taking place across southern New Hampshire over the next couple of weeks.

Though the Deerfield Fair was canceled back in June, there will be fair food available on the days it would have taken place. The Taste of the Fair, a pre-buy ticket only event, will be held on Friday, Oct. 2, Saturday, Oct. 3, and Sunday, Oct. 4.

According to Debora Wyman of the Deerfield Fair Association, attendees must reserve a blocked time on the hour in advance (the ticket page can be accessed through the fair’s website, deerfieldfair.com) and show up at the fairgrounds 15 minutes before. Times are between 11 a.m. and 9 p.m. on Friday and Saturday, and 11 a.m. and 6 p.m. on Sunday. The cost of admission is $5 per person and a maximum of 200 tickets per time block per day are being sold.

When you arrive at the fairgrounds, there will be signage and event staff directing you where to drive through and park. Several fair vendors selling items like fried dough, fried Oreos, cotton candy, fried pickles, pizza, french fries, sausages, caramel and candy apples, pretzels, and corn dogs will be set up along a designated section of the fairgrounds.

Masks are required and electronic payments are encouraged, as there will not be an ATM onsite. To prevent congregating, there will be no seating on the fairgrounds. Each group, Wyman said, has 45 minutes to purchase their food before leaving the fairgrounds to allow the next group to come in. All surfaces will be sanitized during the 15 minutes in between each allotted time block.

Dan Keough of Dan’s Fried Dough, a featured vendor at the Deerfield Fair for 45 years, said he approached the association with the idea for the event after experiencing success at similar festivals in Vermont and Massachusetts over the last few months.

“We’ve been doing the best we can to get a variety of food vendors,” he said.

Also happening this weekend, St. Philip Greek Orthodox Church in Nashua will host a two-day drive-thru event on Friday, Oct. 2, and Saturday, Oct. 3, from 11 a.m. to 6 p.m., offering a menu of homemade Greek items usually enjoyed during its annual festival in the spring, like baklava, spanakopita and stuffed grape leaves.

According to event volunteer Joyce Powell, the menu for this event has expanded to include spit-roasted lamb and pastichio (Greek lasagna), two options that weren’t available from the first drive-thru festival. Dinners are available for purchase, which come with Greek-style rice and green beans, and dessert options have been expanded to include koulourakia, or Greek butter cookies.

“We’ve also added a cookbook of recipes made by some of the women of the church, and some face masks that were handmade in Greece,” Powell said.

Advance ordering online is encouraged, but call-aheads will also be accepted on each day.

In Concord, Holy Trinity Greek Orthodox Church is hosting its next Greek meal to go next weekend. Orders must be placed by Oct. 7, with pickups at the church on Sunday, Oct. 11, from noon to 1 p.m. The meal will include a half Greek lemon-roasted chicken with rice pilaf, a salad and a dinner roll, for $15 per person. The church will also offer similar meals over the next several months, including on Nov. 8 (stuffed peppers), Dec. 13 (dolmathes, or stuffed grape leaves), Jan. 10 (pork souvlaki) and Feb. 7 (Greek meatballs).

Glendi, a long-running three-day Greek food festival in Manchester, was also canceled earlier this year, but St. George Greek Orthodox Cathedral members and volunteers are holding smaller food events. Following a “Gyro Day” drive-thru pickup event that was presented on Sept. 26, the church will hold a lamb shank dinner to go on Saturday, Oct. 17, from 4 to 7 p.m.

Orders must be placed by Oct. 11 by calling the church office — the dinner will include lamb shanks, rice and green beans for $20.

Upcoming drive-thru and to-go food festivals
The Deerfield Fair will host the Taste of the Fair on Friday, Oct. 2, and Saturday, Oct. 3, from 11 a.m. to 9 p.m., and Sunday, Oct. 4, from 11 a.m. to 6 p.m., on the Deerfield Fairgrounds (34 Stage Road). Advance tickets online are required — visit deerfieldfair.com to pick a designated time slot. Only 200 tickets will be sold per hour, per day, and masks are required.
Join St. Philip Greek Orthodox Church (500 W. Hollis St., Nashua) for its next pop-up drive-thru food festival on Friday, Oct. 2, and Saturday, Oct. 3, from 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. Pre-ordering in advance is required — items include lamb, pastichio, dolmathes, Greek meatballs and spanakopita, plus pastries and sweets like baklava and koulourakia. Visit nashuagreekfestival.com.
Holy Trinity Greek Orthodox Church (68 N. State St., Concord) is offering its next Greek dinner to-go on Sunday, Oct. 11, from noon to 1 p.m. (order by Oct. 7). All meals include a half Greek lemon-roasted chicken with rice pilaf, a salad and a dinner roll, for $15. Visit holytrinitynh.org.
St. George Greek Orthodox Cathedral (650 Hanover St., Manchester) will serve a drive-thru lamb shank dinner on Saturday, Oct. 17, from 4 to 7 p.m. (order by Oct. 11). Meals include lamb shank, rice and green beans, for $20. Visit stgeorgeglendi.com.

Featured Photo: Greek Food Festival in Nashua. Courtesy photo.

The Weekly Dish 20/10/01

News from the local food scene

Indian inspired: Chef Keith Sarasin of The Farmer’s Dinner, a series of farm-to-table dinners at New Hampshire farms, will host a live cooking class via Zoom on Sunday, Oct. 4, from 5 to 6 p.m. Participants will also learn the basics of Indian food during the class, as Sarasin, who learned to cook under an Indian chef for three years, walks through an easy recipe and talks about his own experiences. The cost is $29.99 per person and all virtual attendees will be emailed an ingredient list and video link in advance of the class. Visit thefarmersdinner.com.

Smoked to perfection: On Sept. 11, Michael “Messy Mike” Massiglia of the Derry-based Messy Mike’s Barbecue & Catering Co. launched a new 30-foot mobile food trailer that you can now find every Friday through Sunday in the parking lot of Rockingham Acres Greenhouse (161 Rockingham Road, Derry), from noon until he sells out. The menu includes various meats sold by the pound, sandwiches, sides and other specialty barbecue favorites. Massiglia has been barbecuing full-time since 2014, catering all kinds of events across New England like birthday parties, cookouts, weddings and corporate gatherings, always offering a menu heavy on smoked meats and fresh sides. He also makes his own bottled hot and regular barbecue sauces, which are available for sale online and on some local store shelves. Visit messymikesbarbecue.com or follow him on Facebook @messymikesbbq.

Cookie tour canceled: The Country Inns in the White Mountains has cancelled its 24th annual Inn to Inn Cookie and Candy Tour, which had been scheduled for Dec. 12 and Dec. 13, according to a press release. “Out of an abundance of caution for the safety of guests and the association’s innkeepers and staff, it became clear that the event might attract a crowd that would exceed safety limits determined by the state,” the release read. The tour, which originated as a holiday luncheon, has grown into one of the region’s largest holiday events and raised thousands of dollars for local nonprofits over the years. Dates for the event to return next year have already been set, for Dec. 11 and Dec. 12, 2021, according to the release. Visit countryinnsinthewhitemountains.com.

Granite State Distilling introduced: Sazerac of New Hampshire, a Londonderry bottling facility of distilled spirits, has changed its name to Granite State Distilling, according to a recent press release. The name change also comes with a new logo that was recently unveiled, featuring a sketch of an Appalachian mountaintop inside the shape of a circle, with two outlines of the state of New Hampshire on either side. The new sign was installed on the premises over the summer, according to the release, and all bottled products are expected to reflect the name change in the near future. One of the oldest family-owned private distillers, Sazerac has operations in nearly a dozen states, as well as global operations. Visit sazerac.com.

Planning ahead

Plant bulbs now for spring blossoms

Now is the time to buy your bulbs for spring blossoms. Most years I have bulb flowers pushing their way up through mushy snow and fallen leaves in early March, delighting me with their improbably delicate flowers.

First the small bulbs bloom: snowdrops, glory of the snow, scilla, winter aconite and crocus. Next come daffodils, tulips and alliums. Finally come summer snowflake and camassia. You have plenty of time to plant bulbs as you can do so until the ground freezes. But I recommend that you get them now before they are sold out. Gardening has taken a big uptick in interest this year, and I predict bulbs will go the way of seeds and hoses — all sold out early.

Here are the basics: you plant bulbs in the fall and they bloom in the spring according to an internal clock. All need plenty of sun, though the little ones that bloom early can be grown under deciduous trees, as they will get enough sun to “re-charge” the bulbs by photosynthesis before the leaves are on. Don’t plant bulbs of daffodils or tulips in the lawn because you won’t be able to mow it until July (if you do, the bulbs will not get enough energy and they won’t bloom).

Planting depth matters. The small bulbs only need two or three inches of soil cover over the top of the bulb; bigger bulbs like tulips and daffodils generally need 6 inches of cover. Follow the directions that come with the bulbs.

Tulip bulbs are loved as food by rodents like squirrels and chipmunks. Deer will eat the foliage and flower buds — often the night before you planned on picking some. Daffodils are vaguely poisonous, so not eaten by anything. Alliums, in the onion family, are not eaten by anything, either. Crocus are not generally bothered by anything, but this past spring we had a plague of chipmunks that ate the blossoms just before they bloomed. I’ve never had trouble with any of the other small bulbs.

I like to plant bulbs in big batches. Fifty daffodils will knock your socks off when they bloom, but five will hardly be noticed. I know that some stores sell tools that can be used to cut out and lift a circle of soil all in one motion. The idea is to dig lots of holes (three inches across) and plant one bulb in each hole. I find that method tedious. The same goes for using an auger on a drill to dig holes for bulbs.

What I like is to dig a bulb bed for 25 or more bulbs. Dig down six inches, remove the soil in an oval or circle 24 to 36 inches across. I put the soil in a wheelbarrow or on a tarp so as to keep the area tidy. Once the hole is excavated, I add some bulb booster or slow-release organic fertilizer in the hole with my CobraHead weeder. I generally add some compost, too, and scratch it into the soil at the bottom of the hole, along with the fertilizer.

After all that, I just place the bulbs in the soil, pointy end up. Space them according to the directions, or a little closer than the directions indicate. Daffodils and tulips I space about three inches apart, small bulbs less. Then I take the soil I removed and return it to the hole, being careful not to disturb the bulbs. I remove any stones that are the size of the bulbs or larger, and mix in some compost with the soil if it is a heavy clay or very sandy.

What about those rodents that want to eat your tulips or small bulbs? People try many things to deter them. Some sprinkle hot pepper powder on the soil surface, or crushed oyster shells, which are sharp and unpleasant. A variety of animal repellents are sold, and some may do the job. I like to hide the hole with a layer of fall leaves so it won’t be so obvious to rodents.

Back at the end of Bill Clinton’s time in office I got to interview the White House gardener in the fall. They had just planted, for the newly elected President Bush, thousands of tulips, a variety named Hilary Clinton. I asked how they would keep the squirrels away — I saw them everywhere. Dale Haney, the head gardener, told me they keep the squirrels fat and happy — they give them all the dried corn they can eat. That reduces the desire for tulips. And, he said, they put a layer of chicken wire two inches below the soil surface after planting. Squirrels are deterred by the wire. I tried that method, and it is not easy to do — I needed to cut the chicken wire to fit my plantings, and it was like handling razor wire.

There are a few fall-blooming bulbs, too. Saffron crocus and colchicum need to be planted before this, but you might like to try them another year. Colchicum, generally planted in August, is also called “fall crocus” (even though it is not a crocus at all). But the blossoms look like giant crocus, and each bulb produces several blossoms. I love them.

Colchicum are leafless now, but they put out leaves in the spring that disappear by mid-summer. Bulbs cost $5 to $8 each and are generally sold in packages of three. Good garden centers may have a few for sale potted up and already in bloom now.

I’ve been planting bulbs every year for decades and find it one of my favorite gardening activities. Now, in fall, when the garden is declining, I plant something and dream of spring.

Featured Photo: Photo by Henry Homeyer.

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