Carpe diem

Something new in sparkling wines

Carpe diem — seize the day! Embark on something new! Even John Keating, played by Robin Williams in Dead Poets Society, famously says, “Carpe diem. Seize the day, boys. Make your lives extraordinary.” Well, broadening your experiences with wine is rewarding. Borrowing from that quote, an “extraordinary” array of wine produced from seemingly unlimited manners of blending of grape varieties produces a vastly diverse tasting spectrum and sensations.

Gruet Cuvée 89 Brut (originally priced at $29.99 and on sale at the NH Liquor and Wine Outlets at $14.99) is designed to be savored. The wine has a light straw color to it and to the nose there is a slight yeast note along with a little slate-like minerality. To the mouth, green apples along with citrus rind round the tongue. The label states, “Gruet specializes in Méthode Champenoise wines. The Cuvée 89 by Gruet is a brut style sparkling wine which boasts notes of green apple and ripe pear and finishes with round crisp acidity.” This wine is slightly “sweet” to some. That is not to be confused with an effervescent moscato, as it is not that sweet. This is a wine that can be enjoyed alongside some cheese and fruit; it is equally refreshing alone, sipped on a long summer’s afternoon.

What makes this sparkling wine so amazing is that it is from New Mexico, but its origins lie in France. Gilbert Gruet, the founder of Gruet Winery, was born to a poor family in the village of Bethon, in the Champagne region of France. He created a co-op in his village to market still wines, Champagnes and brandy. The family traveled to the American Southwest in search of soils and climate in which to farm and planted their first American vineyards in Engle, New Mexico, in 1984 on land with elevations of 4,000 to 5,000 feet above sea level. The sandy soils and dry climate with cool nights proved to be ideal. In 1989 their first releases developed a following, ultimately realizing awards in the early 2000s and in 2011 a No. 43 spot on Wine Spectator’s Top 100 Wines of the World list for its Non-Vintage Blanc de Noirs. Gilbert’s children Laurent and Nathalie now run the business.

Veuve du Vernay Ice Sparkling Demi Sec Rosé (originally priced at $16.99 and on sale at the NH Liquor and Wine Outlets at $11.99) has been created especially to be enjoyed on ice in a large glass. Defined as a “vin mousseux,” a sparkling wine with an alcoholic content at 11 percent, it is perfect as an aperitif or for dessert. Its color is the slightest of a pale pink and its nose is very slight with raspberries and some citrus. To the mouth it has fruit notes of raspberries with a very slight edge of acidity. A blend of non-vintage syrah, cinsault and brenache, it is bright and refreshing, and with its low alcoholic content it is perfect for a warm, sunny afternoon. Like prosecco, the wine is created using the Charmat process — that is, its secondary fermentation takes place in pressurized stainless steel tanks. When complete, it is filtered and bottled under pressure. This is distinct from the Méthode Champenoise noted above wherein the secondary fermentation takes place in the bottle.

This wine is one of several sparkling wines owned by the house of Patriarche, a Beaune, Burgundy-based wine company that in turn is owned by the conglomerate Group Castel, a multinational beverage company producing wine, beer and soft drinks from estates around the world. These wines are produced in Bordeaux and exported to more than 40 countries. The wine is classified as a Vin de France, a new national appellation from France. This new classification releases the wine from the strict, confining, traditional classifications France has used since the start of the 19th century and allows the public to better understand French wine; a Burgundy becomes a pinot noir, named for the grape from which it is produced.

So break away from the traditional chardonnay or pinot grigio, or even prosecco, and explore these sparkling wines on a sunny weekend afternoon! You will be happy with your discovery!

In the kitchen with Jon Buatti

In December 2019, Jon Buatti of Auburn took over ownership of Michelle’s Gourmet Pastries & Deli in Manchester, bringing with him a culinary education and a specialization in custom cake decorating. With the business now known as the Bearded Baking Co. (819 Union St., Manchester, 647-7150, beardedbaking.com), Buatti has built upon the longtime success of the popular Queen City bakeshop and deli, offering custom cakes with many of his own sponge and buttercream recipes. The bakery and deli also features a selection of breakfast and lunch sandwiches and smaller treats like cookies, cupcakes, cheesecakes, bread pudding, chocolate-covered pretzels and more. A Salem native, Buatti got his start in the industry as a busboy at La Bec Rouge in Hampton Beach before volunteering to work a shift making plated desserts. He graduated from Salem High School’s culinary program, followed by Southern New Hampshire University’s associate’s program in baking and culinary arts and its bachelor’s program in culinary management.

What is your must-have kitchen item?

Either an offset spatula or a bench scraper.

What would you have for your last meal?

Anything with barbecue. Ribs, maybe, or barbecue chicken.

What is your favorite local restaurant?

My fiancée and I love The Crown Tavern [in Manchester]. I get the Pep N’ Honey pizza, and their wings are outrageous.

What celebrity would you like to see ordering from your bakery?

Dwayne “The Rock” Johnson.

What is your personal favorite thing that you have ever baked?

As far as a specific cake that I’ve done, it’s a two-way tie with both of the wedding cakes I did for my two older sisters. Those were fun because being part of the wedding, I worked on it for a week straight for both of them, with a revolving door of friends and family coming in the kitchen to catch up and see how the cake was going.

What is the biggest food trend in New Hampshire right now?

Anything dietary, so gluten-free, vegan and sugar-free. We definitely do a lot more custom orders for those types of desserts.

What is your favorite thing to cook at home?

Our favorite dish to make at home together is zuppa toscana. It’s a kale cream soup with tons of veggies.

Homemade scones
From the kitchen of Jon Buatti of the Bearded Baking Co. in Manchester

4½ cups flour
½ tablespoon + ½ teaspoon baking powder
½ teaspoon baking soda
½ teaspoon salt
2 sticks unsalted butter, cubed
1½ cups heavy cream
¾ cup corn syrup

Combine all dry ingredients into a bowl. Cut cold butter into dry ingredients. Create a well with dry ingredients and fold in corn syrup. Add in fillings of choice and form into even disks (makes about 10).

Kiddie Pool 20/07/23

A show for the littles
The 2020 Bank of New Hampshire Children’s Summer Series continues at the Palace Theatre (80 Hanover St. in Manchester; palacetheatre.org, 668-5588) with The Little Mermaid on Thursday, July 23, and Aladdin, Tuesday, July 28, through Thursday, July 30. The kid-friendly shows are at 10 a.m. and 6:30 p.m. and are about 45 minutes long. Tickets cost $10 and are only being sold over the phone.

A show for the bigs
Catch The Goonies (PG, 1985) Friday, July 24, at 8:45-ish p.m. at Fieldhouse Sports drive-in (12 Tallwood Drive in Bow; fieldhousesports.com, 266-4646). Like many 1980s PG movies, this may feel more modern-day PG-13; Common Sense Media pegs it at 10+. Admission costs $25 per vehicle (for up to four people, $5 for each additional person).

Treasure Hunt 20/07/23

Dear Donna,
I’m trying to figure this watch out; it’s working, but other than that I know nothing. I bought it at a flea market a couple years ago and just recently dug it out of a drawer.
Bev

Dear Bev,
I am chuckling after your explanation of buying it and putting it away. So now it’s like buying it all over again and liking it once more.

What you have is a car clock that looks like a pocket watch. They were in automobiles in the early 1900s. They aren’t seen too often, and they usually don’t work. They were in the dashboards of automobiles and because they were so similar to pocket watches they were stolen frequently.

Yours is an Elgin, but other watch companies made them as well. They usually run in the $75 range when working. I can see why you would like it; it’s a fun piece of automobile history.

A mid-summer garden dream

How to make your flowers happy

It is mid-summer now, and my garden is full of gorgeous flowers, some finishing up their display, others just beginning. Here are some I love, and what I do to make them happy.

The first flowers I see when I walk out my front door are annual poppies. I didn’t plant most of them, or not this year. Each year I let them bloom and drop seeds after they’re done. They reward me with dozens of blossoms the following year. Sometimes I pick the pods and save them to sprinkle seeds on the snow, an easy way to plant them in the dead of winter.

My poppies are in full sun and soil that is not particularly rich. I like these poppies because they ask nothing of me and each year the palette is a little different as they hybridize, offering some new colors and sizes. I have a nice deep red double annual poppy that blooms every year in one row of my vegetable garden. This year it is with the tomatoes.

Another favorite of mine is pink mallow. This is a big, often floppy perennial with lots of pink blossoms that resemble those of a hollyhock. In my garden it pops up anywhere and everywhere. I have to treat it a bit like a weed to keep it in control. It does best in full sun and rich soil that stays lightly moist.

Pink mallow has a tap root and does not transplant easily, unless you do so when small. I often stake mine to keep them upright — it can grow to be 2 to 5 feet tall. It’s not often seen in garden centers, so get a seedling from a fellow gardener, and let it go to seed so you’ll get more plants.

Another flower that moves around the garden, appearing by whim, is feverfew. Feverfew has white daisy-like flowers with a yellow center, blossoms just three-quarters of an inch across but appearing in vast numbers. It is a short-lived perennial that sows seeds freely, so if you don’t want more plants cut off the flowers before the seeds are dropped.

Feverfew will grow in average soil but prefers moist, rich soil. It’s blooming for me now and will continue for the rest of the summer, or nearly. The flowers do well in a vase.

My bee balm is just coming into full bloom now and is deliciously fragrant. It is in the mint family, with a square stem that is relatively fragile. But they make great cut flowers, in part because of their fragrance. Bees love them (hence the name), but hummingbirds do too. Mine grow to 5 feet tall.

Many books claim bee balm is a full-sun plant, but I disagree. It does best in morning sun or partial shade in rich, moist soil. It goes by quickly in hot, dry areas. The best blossom colors are red and purple, though cultivars in white and bluish are sold. Recently short varieties have appeared in the marketplace, but I have not found that they are very hardy. Bee balm spreads by root but pulls easily if it gets too rambunctious.

Daylilies are in bloom now, too. The common orange daylily is the friend of anyone who thinks they can’t grow flowers. You cannot kill a common orange daylily. I have dug them out, placed them on the lawn without any soil preparation, and they have thrived where placed.

Each blossom of a daylily blooms for just one day, but each scape, or flower stalk, has several buds that bloom in succession. The buds will open in a vase, too, so don’t be afraid to use them in flower arrangements. Unlike true lilies these beauties are not eaten by lily-leaf beetles. They come in many colors from deep red to light yellow. I have tiny daylilies, and one variety that blooms on scapes as tall as me.

Great masterwort is an awkward name, so I prefer the scientific epithet, Astrantia major. This is a medium-height flower in the carrot family, along with Queen Anne’s lace, a wildflower or weed I love too. The flowers range from white to purple-white and bloom in great profusion. It is a good cut flower, too. Each blossom is just an inch across and resembles scabiosa.

Astrantia does well in part shade but will grow in full sun if adequate moisture is present. The foliage is attractive even when the plant is not in bloom, and it is very well-behaved — it stays as a nice clump and does not take over the garden.

I love knautia both for the smallish (3/4-inch) purple-red domed blossoms and for its willingness to keep on blooming from now until fall. Most perennials have much shorter bloom periods, but knautia is a real trooper.

It has thin stems and delicate leaves, so is hard to display in a vase, but it is worth mixing with daisies or something else that will hold the blossoms up in a vase. I grow it in full sun with average soil, and it does well and will occasionally provide volunteers from seed.

Each garden has its own winners and losers. Good gardeners try a lot of plants to find those that do best for them. So go buy some or trade with a friend.

Featured Photo: Feverfew. Photo by Henry Homeyer.

The Art Roundup 20/07/23

Author discusses women’s suffrage: The Tory Hill Author Series will feature feminist historian and biographer Susan Ware on Saturday, July 25, at 7 p.m. on the video conferencing platform Zoom. Ware will discuss her book Why They Marched: Untold Stories of the Women Who Fought for the Right to Vote (2019), which looks at some of the lesser-known icons of the women’s suffrage movement. Ware is currently the Honorary Women’s Suffrage Centennial Historian at Harvard University’s Schlesinger Library and is the general editor of American National Biography. The Library of America will publish her edited volume American Women’s Suffrage: The Long Struggle for the Vote, 1776–1965 this summer. Tickets cost $25 and can be purchased online. Every year the Tory Hill Author Series, presented by the Warner Historical Society, features local and nationally known authors who read from and discuss their books and personal experiences. Other authors being featured will include biology writer Bernd Heinrich on Saturday, Aug. 8, and storyteller Rebecca Rule and middle-grade and young adult novelist Adi Rule on Saturday, Aug. 22. Visit toryhillauthorsseries.com.

Forest inspiration: Twiggs Gallery (254 King St., Boscawen) presents a new art exhibit, “Tree & Twig,” from July 25 through Aug. 23, with an opening reception on Saturday, July 25, from 1 to 3 p.m. It features 10 local artists Debra Claffey, Richard Gombar, Susan Lirakis, Laura Morrison, Katy O’Gorman, Adele Sanborn, Jean Stimmell, Pam Tarbell, Dave Therrien and Arielle Van De Water whose work focuses on their deep and personal connections to New Hampshire forests. There will be paintings, photography, sculptures and other media. Gallery hours are Thursday through Friday from 11 a.m. to 5 p.m., and Saturday from noon to 4 p.m. Call 975-0015 or visit twiggsgallery.wordpress.com.

Reopening pushed back: Cinemagic Stadium Theaters in New Hampshire (1226 Hooksett Road, Hooksett, 644-4629; 11 Executive Park Drive, Merrimack, 423-0240; 2454 Lafayette Road, Portsmouth, 319-8788; cinemagicmovies.com) has pushed its reopening date back to July 31 because of changes to theatrical release dates, according to a press release. All locations will feature classic movies for $5, as well the premiere of Unhinged (R), starring Russel Crowe. Moviegoers are required to wear face masks while moving around the facility but can remove them while seated in the auditorium, observing social distance at all times. Contactless ticket and concession purchases are encouraged and can be made via the Cinemagic app. A limited-time buy-one-get-one-free popcorn special will be available, and beer, wine and specialty drinks can now be purchased at the concessions stands, according to the release.

Jewish Film Fest continues virtually: In place of its traditional festival, which was canceled due to Covid-19, the New Hampshire Jewish Film Festival is presenting a virtual summer film series featuring international films that would have made their New Hampshire premieres. The next film is My Name is Sara, a U.S. drama, on Thursday, July 23, followed by Futures Past, a U.S. documentary, on Thursday, Aug. 6; Shooting Life, an Israeli drama, on Thursday, Aug. 20; and Paris Song, a Latvian historical drama, on Thursday, Aug. 27. My Name is Sara, Futures Past and Paris Song screenings will include a post-movie discussion with the filmmakers on the following Sunday at 7 p.m. All screenings are free, with a suggested donation of $18 to support the festival and future programming. Advance registration is required. Visit nhjewishfilmfestival.com/2020-virtual.

Featured photo: Art by Pam Tarbell featured in “Tree & Twig” at Twiggs Gallery.

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