Album Reviews 21/02/25

Sana Nagano, Smashing Humans (577 Records)

Hey man, if I have to get introduced to an avant punk-jazz record by the most sterilized, LinkedIn-style jumble of words I’ve ever read, you do too: You see, on this album, the “compositions are naturally motivic with grid-like melody lines underpinned by relentless rhythmic intensity.” What does this mean? It means that the music of this NYC-based band (i.e. Smashing Humans), as led by Nagano, is probably the most interesting even agreeable cacophony to which I’ve ever been exposed, not that I ever honestly seek out avant jazz (it’s more like that stuff finds me). I d_)on’t believe this is actually improvisational; “Humans In Grey,” unhinged and spazzy as it is, goes on a long tear that bespeaks progressive head-drug jazz from the ’80s, and like the designated genre would indicate, the sax, guitar, drums, bass combine with Sana’s battered violin to render pure, raucous expressionism that you could actually groove to. Like the impulsive eight-bit cover art hints at, it’s perfect for clearing your head of any stupid but manageable frustration du jour. A+

Yoko Miwa Trio, Songs of Joy (Ubuntu Music)

At this writing, Jazz Times hasn’t weighed in on this (by my count) fifth LP from the long-time Berklee college instructor’s trio, a pianist who’s been touted by the legendary Ahmad Jamal and has been a regular fixture at festivals and Boston jazz clubs (if you’re a regular visitor to that scene, Les Zygomates Wine Bar & Bistro in Boston closed as a casualty of Covid last year). With regard to her last album, 2019’s Keep Talkin’, the Jazz Times guy noted that Miwa’s work possesses a certain prettiness that jazz snobs tend to snub (“even some of Oscar Peterson’s work was dismissed for being too beautiful”). She won’t get that sort of nonsense from me; not that I’d ever pretend to be a Mingus-head, but I find stuff like this album’s intricately woven rub of Richie Havens’ “Freedom” really just cool. Like Havens’ original Woodstock-hippie outcry, it rushes to say a lot, but in this case Miwa’s expansive wanderings are slowly counterpointed by Will Slater’s upright bass in a boss move. This ain’t lounge stuff, no, it’s way too bold, but it wouldn’t be out of place at one. A

Retro Playlist

Let us go back, friends, back to the year 2013. Do you even remember what it was like before Covid and the Q-Shaman guy who’s part yak and part human, back when everything wasn’t so messed up that you had to hold Zoom meetings with your friends in order to get some semblance of communal togetherness? Oh, wait, for young people, that was how most interpersonal relationships were maintained anyway, so what’s all the fuss about, again?

Anyway, warping back to late February 2013, one of the new releases that week was What About Now, by Bon Jovi. As I noted that week, the title track “starts out with an ’80s-new-wave shoegaze sort of guitar line” and then it devolves into the usual epic throwback radio-rawk fail to which his fans have long been accustomed. That’s nice and all, but one of that week’s column’s main focus points was Flowers, a solo record from Seabear leader Sindri Már Sigfússon, under the stage name Sin Fang. Naturally, since it’s by an Icelandic dude, someone from Sígur Rós had to be involved, in this case their producer, Alex Somers. The album, thankfully, wasn’t the expected Slushie mix of Animal Collective and Raveonettes; some OK Go-style rocking out was present, and so I didn’t just whip out my handy bag of insults when I talked about it.

That week there was also the album The Fire Plays from Ari Hest, whose approach is, in general, stripped-to-the-hooks radio-folk a la Paul Simon. I don’t think I’ve so much as mentioned the guy in the eight years that have passed since my review of TFP, so you probably know more than I do, but regardless, on this album Hest did a decent Seal impersonation on “Set In Stone,” but otherwise it comprised things like hayloft indie (“All Because”) and halcyon-cowboy haze (“Couldn’t Have Her”), which automatically got my approval because Hest mostly sounded like Warren Zevon. Man, does the world need another Zevon, seriously.

PLAYLIST

A seriously abridged compendium of recent and future CD releases

• The first thing I see in this list of new CD releases for Feb. 26 is Willie Nelson’s That’s Life, and of course I can’t resist putting in my two cents, because it’s always fun to make fun of 87-year-old dudes who drive Cheech and Chong vans powered by nothing but pot smoke! What’s interesting is that he is 5’6” tall, which, as his Wikipedia entry specifically notes, is the same height as Patsy Cline. I hope that if I ever get an actual Wiki entry instead of the stupid “Wikipeople” thing or whatever it is, they will make note that I am the same height as George W. Bush. I think it’s important to know that about me, so that you won’t ever mistake me for Danny DeVito. Anyway, with all the important stuff out of the way, we can proceed to the contents of this new album, one that consists solely of covers of Frank Sinatra songs. I sort of don’t blame Willie for doing a victory lap for having lived so long, like, he totally dunked on James Dean and the dude from Nirvana and all those guys, so really, he does have every right to imprison a few musicians in a studio while he warbles old Rat Pack songs in his hoarse grandfatherly tenor. This is actually the second time Willie’s done an album of Sinatra tunes, but unlike the last one, this new album features a cover of “Luck Be a Lady” as well as a duet with none other than famous jazz singing lady Diana Krall (“I Won’t Dance”). OK, I know this has been a lot to unpack and wrap your head around, so let’s move to the next thingie after you gulp down some Pepto Bismol in order to settle your stomach, which got violently upset over my use of the buzzspeak word “unpack.”

• Ha ha, speaking of albums from old and crazy rock stars, look there fam, it’s famous Halloween decoration Alice Cooper, with Detroit Stories, just when we needed it, or at least I did! OK, I know Alice grew up in Detroit, so these tunes are probably about the times he used to play pranks with Jack White? No, Jack White’s young enough to be Alice’s great-grandson, so maybe it’s about the old days with another Detroit guy, Iggy Pop? Nope, Iggy is way cooler than Alice, so they probably never hung around either. In that case, I’ll just ditch this exercise, bite the bullet and go listen to the new Alice single, “Rock & Roll!” Nope, it’s not the Led Zeppelin song, it’s the old Velvet Underground song, so apparently the album title refers to Alice’s favorite songs that have the word “Detroit” in the lyrics. Say, guess who plays guitar on this? That’s right, it’s Joe Bonamassa! This rocks so hard, like, if you had just arrived from another planet and this was the first rock ’n’ roll song you’d ever heard, you’d be like, “Ha ha, wow, dig this crazy music!”

• Blub blub blub, I’m drowning in awful music that never should have — wait, belay that order, leftenant, it’s a new Melvins album, called Working With God, we’re saved! One of the songs, “Brian the Horse-Faced Goon,” is part joke song and part early Ministry, I love it so much I’d marry it if I were single.

• To close the week out, it’s one-man U.K.-based electronic-drone-whatnot project Blanck Mass, with In Ferneaux, his fifth album! The single, “Starstuff,” is just fine I suppose, if you like krautrock and ’80s sci-fi soundtrack music mixed together. I don’t, but then again, I have become biased against music that sucks, so don’t mind me.

Flavor impact

What you eat or drink affects your brew

In sort of a famous family incident several years ago during a get-together at a restaurant, my dad complained about the Wachusett Country Ale he was drinking. He didn’t like it. The flavor wasn’t quite right.

As the brew is one of my staples and frankly, unarguably, one of the least offensive brews on the planet, this concerned me. Was it skunked? Did the bartender accidentally give him the wrong beer? Was something wrong with my father?

After a little investigation, he admitted he had popped an Altoid just as he was drinking the beer. Look, I’m not going to question the big guy. He must have needed a breath mint. But I feel sure the brewers at Wachusett Brewing Co. didn’t brew any of their beers to be enjoyed with an Altoid.

The point is, juxtaposition matters when it comes to beer.

This is not an article about pairing food with beer. This is some commentary on at least considering how one thing might impact another. It’s also about encouraging people to give beers another shot — in a different context, you might find different results.

If you’ve had a couple rich, smooth stouts, and then you make the jump to an amped up double IPA, well, it might work but the bitterness might be a lot to take on the first sip.

Recently I was enjoying a delicious Velvet Moon Milk Stout by Mighty Squirrel Brewing of Waltham, Mass., just savoring the rich coffee flavor and decadence of the brew. Then I followed it up with a much drier stout. It was not a good experience and left me disliking the second brew. I even bad-mouthed it to a friend.

I gave the brew another shot several days later and it was a completely different, completely pleasurable experience. I’m glad I came back to it.

Juxtaposition matters, of course, when you’re making a dramatic shift from one style to another, but it also matters when you’re sticking with the same style. If you’re enjoying a bunch of IPAs, sometimes the combination of hops from the next brew can hit you right or wrong.

Food has an impact as well, potentially bringing out the right or wrong flavors from the beer you’re drinking.

Just keep it in mind. If you try a beer and you don’t like it, you might just not like it, but consider the possibility that other factors have impacted how you feel about it. Try it again in a different context.

Here are three random beers that can probably be enjoyed in succession but I don’t really know.

ArrrVP Oak-Aged Robust Vanilla Porter by Great North Aleworks (Manchester)

Great North Aleworks takes its terrific Robust Vanilla Porter (RVP) and ages it in rum oak cubes, which accentuates the vanilla in the brew and gives it a little “bite,” while the beer maintains a dry finish. At its core this is still RVP, just a little different. The ABV is pretty low at 6.6 percent, making it approachable too.

Blueberry Ale by Wachusett Brewing Co. (Westminster, Mass.)

Just a coincidence that I referenced Wachusett earlier in the piece, but when you have had more IPAs than you should, this is a perfect choice. The subtle sweetness from the blueberries and the light body provide the perfect counterpoint to all that hop bitterness.

Unraveled IPA by Founders Brewing Co. (Grand Rapids, Michigan)

This is good stuff: very juicy but also smooth, if an IPA can be that. It’s also a crystal clear pour, making it very unique for this style. It also has big citrus aromas.

What’s in My Fridge
60 Minute IPA by Dogfish Head Craft Brewed Ales (Milton, Delaware)
I hadn’t had this in forever and I’ll tell you what, this brew, now nearly 20 years old, absolutely stands up to today’s super-hoppy IPAs. Cheers.

Featured photo: ArrrVP by Great North Aleworks

Erofili Roesel

What is your must-have kitchen item?

Definitely a knife.

What would you have for your last meal?

A spaghetti and feta pizza. … It’s something we have on the menu that my mom created back in the day.

What is your favorite local restaurant?

We’ve been going to The Red Blazer [Restaurant and Pub in Concord] for the longest time. I get the chicken Parm there.

What celebrity would you like to see ordering from your restaurant?

Adam Sandler.

What is your favorite thing on your menu?

The cheese pizza is something we have all the time. I like simple stuff.

What’s the biggest food trend in New Hampshire right now?

The steak and cheese sub, just because it has so many variations, and the gyro also seems to be upcoming as well. We have a beef strip or a grilled chicken option for our gyros.

What is your favorite thing to cook at home?

I like a simple piece of grilled chicken with Greek olive oil, oregano and some lemon, and then some mashed potatoes.

Homemade grilled chicken and mashed potatoes
From the at-home kitchen of Erofili Roesel of Brookside House of Pizza in Loudon

3 pieces chicken breast, butterflied
5 russet potatoes, peeled and cubed
¼ cup milk
½ stick butter
Dash of fresh oregano
Pinch of salt
Pinch of pepper
1 fresh squeezed lemon
Greek olive oil

Cook chicken breasts on the stove top in a cast iron pan, with enough olive oil to coat the bottom of the pan. Add oregano, salt, pepper and lemon. Boil the peeled and cubed potatoes until soft. Blend potatoes with milk, butter, salt and pepper. (Optional: Add another squirt of lemon when chicken is done).

Food & Drink

Farmers markets

Cole Gardens Winter Farmers Market is Saturdays, from 9:30 a.m. to 1 p.m., at Cole Gardens (430 Loudon Road, Concord), now through April 17. Visit colegardens.com.

Downtown Concord Winter Farmers Market is Saturdays, 9 a.m. to noon, in the Families in Transition building (20 S. Main St.). Find them on Facebook.

Rolling Green Winter Farmers Market’s final dateis Saturday, Feb. 27, from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m., at Rolling Green Nursery (64 Breakfast Hill Road, Greenland). Visit rollinggreennursery.com.

Salem Farmers Market is Sundays, from 10 a.m. to noon, inside the former Rockler Woodworking building (369 S. Broadway, Salem). Visit salemnhfarmersmarket.org.

Featured photo: Erofili Roesel

Coffee is brewing

Game of Thrones-inspired cafe now open in Amherst

A new cafe in Amherst is inviting you to transport to the lands of Westeros while enjoying locally roasted coffees, teas, breakfast burritos, baked goods and more. The 7Kingdoms Cafe, which arrived last month in the town’s Salzburg Square shopping center, is inspired by Game of Thrones, a favorite show of co-owners and sisters Kareya and Karina Flores. The casual spot features medieval cloth shields, gargoyle light fixtures, chess boards, books and other themed decor and some drinks with names that call to mind the popular HBO series.

Kareya Flores, whose family also owns El Arroyo Mexican Restaurant just a few doors down in the same plaza, said she and her sister became inclined to take over the space following the closure of its preceding business, Hodlbyte Coffee.

“We’ve been [at El Arroyo] since 2018 … and we always liked to walk over to that cafe to grab a coffee and relax. Our restaurant staff would also head over there on their breaks,” Flores said. “So once we saw that the landlord there was renting that area out, we wanted to see if we could get it up and running again.”

According to Flores, it was a conversation among family members about what the new cafe would be named that sparked the idea of a Game of Thrones theme.

“We were trying to think of what would be different,” she said. “My husband suggested that it would be neat to have that as a theme … and everything kind of evolved around that.”

The cafe features espresso drinks, in addition to hot or iced drip and nitro coffees, using beans roasted from A&E Coffee & Tea. Many of the options are named after Game of Thrones characters or places, like the “latte of Winterfell” made with Irish cream-flavored syrup, the “Cersei chai latte,” and the “mocha Stark,” with either white chocolate or regular cocoa. If you prefer your own unique coffee creation, there are several other flavors of syrups available, from vanilla, caramel and hazelnut, to tiramisu, amaretto, strawberry and raspberry. Other featured drinks are hot or iced teas, hot chocolate, freshly squeezed orange juice, and mixed refreshments with fruits like strawberries, passion fruit and mango.

Food options include several varieties of breakfast burritos premade the same day they are available, like those with Mexican chorizo sausage, jalapenos, scrambled eggs, cheese and house salsa. There are also paninis, like an Italian option with ham and salami, and a vegetarian option with mushrooms, tomatoes and romaine lettuce.

At the cafe’s counter is a display case of fresh baked goods, several of which are either prepared at El Arroyo or sourced from the Manchester-based Dulces Bakery. There you’ll find items like conchas (Mexican sweet bread), cuernitos (Mexican sweet croissants) and assorted cookies.

Flores said the 7Kingdoms Cafe is already fast becoming a regular stomping ground for local Game of Thrones fans.

“Some people have said that as soon as they heard the name they knew it was related to Game of Thrones and were very excited,” she said. “They love discussing the show.”

7Kingdoms Cafe
Where
: 292 Route 101, Amherst
Hours: Monday through Friday, 8 a.m. to 5 p.m., and Saturday and Sunday, 9 a.m. to 4 p.m.
More info: Visit 7kingdoms-cafe.business.site, find them on Facebook @7kingdomscafe or call 213-5390

Comfort to go

Red Beard’s Kitchen offers ready-made farm-to-fork meals

From soup, chowder and chili to beef stew, veal Bolognese and shepherd’s pie, a new ready-made meal business is offering a variety of locally sourced comfort options, available at a few area farm stands and also via weekly pickups in Manchester.

Red Beard’s Beef Chili to go. Courtesy photo.

Known as Red Beard’s Kitchen, it’s the latest culinary project of Matt Provencher, who has held executive chef positions at multiple Granite State eateries over the years, most recently at The Foundry in Manchester. The business launched earlier this month with its first curbside pickups in front of the temporarily closed Noodz restaurant on Elm Street. For now, pickups will continue there every Saturday between 10 a.m. and noon.

“We’re working with local farms as much as we can,” said Provencher, who’s been putting out Red Beard’s Kitchen’s meals with the help of his wife, Dalila. “We’re dealing with New England Fishmongers for our scallops and haddock, and Bohanan Farm [in Hopkinton] for ground beef, dairy and cheese. … The goal is to do some self-distribution.”

Ordering is available through Red Beard’s Kitchen’s Facebook page and through its website. All items are sold frozen, with specific heating instructions depending on what you get. Most meals will serve two or three people per order

Some of Provencher’s hottest-selling items right out of the gate have been seafood chowder with scallops, haddock and veggies, and shepherd’s pie with ground beef. He has also done beef chili with kidney and pinto beans; veal Bolognese; split pea soup made with chicken stock, bacon and veggies; beef stew, and broccoli cheddar soup. Several of the meals, including the chili, the shepherd’s pie and the Bolognese, are gluten-free. Provencher has also tested the waters with different products and worked with potential items like meatloaf and meatballs.

In addition to ordering online for Saturday pickups at Noodz, you can get Provencher’s meals at a few local farm stands — he’s working with Vernon Family Farm in Newfields and Brookvale Pines Farm in Fremont, and will soon have his products available through the Three River Farmers Alliance, an online network linking customers to locally sourced food.

Red Beard’s Kitchen
To order, visit red-beards-kitchen.square.site, email [email protected] or find them on Facebook. Place orders for weekly pickups on Saturdays, between 10 a.m. and noon, at Noodz (968 Elm St., Manchester).

The Weekly Dish 21/02/25

News from the local food scene

More drive-thru Greek meals: Holy Trinity Greek Orthodox Church (68 N. State St., Concord) will hold its next boxed Greek dinner to go event on Sunday, March 7, from noon to 1 p.m. Now through March 3, orders are being accepted for boxed meals, featuring Greek beef stew with orzo, Greek salad and a dinner roll, for $15 per person. The event is drive-thru and takeout only — email [email protected] or call 953-3051 to place your order. The church has a few other similar upcoming events planned, like a baked haddock dinner on April 25 and a chicken souvlaki meal on May 16. Visit holytrinitynh.org.

Bite Out of Hunger: Now through March 25, the Salvation Army Women’s Auxiliary is selling chocolate Easter bunnies, made by Granite State Candy Shoppe, as part of its Bite Out of Hunger Campaign. The cost is $8.50 for an eight-ounce solid milk, white or dark chocolate bunny. Proceeds benefit The Kids’ Café, which offers children and teens meals and recreation activities four evenings a week. To order a bunny, call Salvation Army Women’s Auxiliary publicity chairwoman Sylvia Crete at 490-4107.

B’s Tacos expands to Manchester: Londonderry-based food truck B’s Tacos has opened a new brick and mortar location on Manchester’s West Side, at 372 Kelley St. According to owner and founder Ken Spilman, who has operated B’s Tacos since 2013, the new location has allowed him to expand his menu offerings. You can still get six-inch tacos, in crispy corn or soft flour tortillas, as well as 12-inch burrito and rice bowls, in a variety of fillings, like slow-cooked pork, ground beef, pork and chorizo sausage, grilled chipotle garlic steak, fried chicken tender and more. There are also taco salads, quesadillas, and sides like beans, chicken fingers and avocado fries. While it is now open in Manchester Tuesday through Saturday from 11:30 a.m. to 7 p.m., B’s Tacos will continue to operate as a food truck at the BP Gas Station (2 Mohawk Drive, Londonderry) from May to October. Visit nhtacotruck.com.

LaBelle taps new culinary chief: LaBelle Winery recently announced the addition of industry veteran Peter Agostinelli to its culinary team, according to a press release. A 1998 culinary arts graduate from Newbury College in Brookline, Mass., Agostinelli is no stranger to the local food scene — his resume includes stints at the Bedford Village Inn, the Exeter Inn, Grill 23 & Bar in Boston and many other acclaimed eateries. He will oversee all of LaBelle’s food and beverage operations at its Amherst and Portsmouth locations, as well as its newest spot due to open in Derry later this year. “Peter’s expertise in the industry and depth of knowledge and experience will allow him to continue to elevate LaBelle’s culinary-related programs to a place we’ve always envisioned them going — and then some,” winery owner and founder Amy LaBelle said in a statement.

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