Album Reviews 22/02/10

We Are The World, Clay Stones [2022 Reissue] (Give/Take Records)

Today I learned that Madonna wasn’t the only artist Lady Gaga stole song ideas from, and that’s about it. An alleged selling point of this “seminal” album from the Los Angeles electro-pop quartet (which, for clarity’s sake, had nothing whatsoever to do with the 1985 famine-relief charity single) is that it was Gaga’s “favorite album” in 2010, thus its 2022 reissue marks a milestone of something or other. I suppose I’ll buy that, given that I just can’t call Gaga right now to vet all this rubbish for myself, so I’ll play along. It’s mainly a ringtone-centric rehashing of the eclectic cultural appropriation Moby hawked with his 1999 Play album; in that vein, the Pitchfork guy basically wrote this off as a ripoff of Knife, which is fine with me, as maybe the Moby reference is a bit dated (you should see my face right now, panicking at the thought of committing such a colossal foul-up). But, yeah, there are unintelligible Baptist preacher-ish chants and creepy voodoo-priestess `ocal lines going on here, all marinating in thick rhythmic samples, and sure, it all sounds like it could have inspired Gaga circa 2010. It’s OK I guess, and if you’ve read this far you have my sympathies. B-

Charming Disaster, Our Lady of Radium (self-released)

Most recent LP from the Brooklyn, N.Y.-based goth-folk duo comprising Ellia Bisker and Jeff Morris. She plays ukulele, he guitar, so like anything else they’ve done, it’s a novelty record intended for convention nerds who covet overdone eye makeup, fishnet stockings and vintage weirdness, and for those things I do thank them. The two are really great at welding their voices into fascinating harmonies in the service of songs dedicated to steampunk-ish themes, in this case, Marie Curie. They’re a mishmash of black-clad-but-innocent tropes, paying obeisance to the likes of Edward Gorey and Tim Burton, but given that they’re from the Boroughs, this ain’t no foolin’ around. They strum and busk, busk and strum, warbling on about the subject and going into the deeper ends, like a Curie séance they attended. They’re nothing like Dresden Dolls, so don’t think that; more like an opening act for The Cure at an Addams Family festival. She sounds like Siousxie Sioux when she wants to, if that helps sell you. B-

PLAYLIST

• O, what artistic marvels shall we experience on Feb. 11, when the usual Friday delivery of new albums drops into our music stores and Pandoras and illegal torrent streams? Uh-oh, gang, looky there, it’s Pearl Jam’s singer/surfer Eddie Vedder, gone solo, with a new album called Earthling! LOL, remember when he put out that album Ukulele Songs in 2011, and the only problem with it was that it was a bunch of songs literally played on the ukulele? Boy I do, and I remember that all the annoying hipster bands were playing ukulele around that time too, like I couldn’t just sit and watch a stupid car commercial without some twirp playing a ukulele in the background. But that’s finally over with, so we can cut to now, and this new album, his fourth, which features a single titled “Long Way,” I can’t wait! But wait, ack, ack, what’s this, is he trying to be Tom Petty? This sounds like some strummy nonsense song for bored Uber drivers to play on the radio when they’re driving grandmothers to casinos. Come on, Eddie Vedder, what happened to those stupid lumberjack shirts and an entire generation getting nothing accomplished other than oh, I dunno, making people afraid of Courtney Love? I mean, what happened?

• Ha ha, look, guys, it’s super-old Canadian thrash metal weenies Voivod, with a new album called Synchro Anarchy, that you can buy on Friday when the clock strikes midnight! What’s that? No, I know you won’t, I’m saying you could buy it. If you’re in your 40s, maybe you remember when Voivod was an actual force to be reckoned with in the heavy metal scene, because they had good drawings of monsters on their album covers or whatever the attraction was aside from their (really stupid) band logo, I forget. But whatever, outta my way man, I have to go to YouTube and listen to this new song, “Planet Eaters,” and give you my expert review! Ha ha, look at this video, there’s like an evil Pikachu ball and some other poorly drawn monster-whatever things in a swirling hypnotic mush, and they’re trying to sound like Primus. Hm, now it’s trying to be like Guns N’ Roses, and it’s boring, let’s bag this and just continue.

• Oh, here we go. In its continuing, moronically conceived mission to confuse its readers as much as it can, Pitchfork Media described “Cisgender,” the new single from Shamir, as “Prince masquerading as Camille,” failing to remember that most people who have actual busy lives were never aware that the very existence of Prince’s (unreleased, mind you!) Camille album is nothing more than a weird little footnote to His Purpleness’s career. It annoys me that I had to look that up; the writer could have simply spent a handful of words to explain to their bewildered readers that the Camille concept was to present Prince as a female version of himself, but whatever, I suppose the comparison is more or less apt, given that Shamir’s voice is, as you probably know unless you’re older, very feminine. His new album, Heterosexuality, is on the way and will feature the aforementioned tune, a bizarre noise ballad reminiscent of M83 trying to be epic a la “Skin of the Night”; it’s cool, more or less.

• To close out the week, let’s look at indie-folk band Big Thief’s new one, Dragon New Warm Mountain I Believe In You before I fall asleep from all this nonsense. Hm, they wear farmer overalls; I knew someone was still buying those things. The single “Time Escaping” has some weird organic-sounding percussion driving a decent hayloft-pop idea, this is OK I suppose.

If you’re in a local band, now’s a great time to let me know about your EP, your single, whatever’s on your mind. Let me know how you’re holding yourself together without being able to play shows or jam with your homies. Send a recipe for keema matar. Message me on Twitter (@esaeger) or Facebook (eric.saeger.9).

Care-free Super Bowl

Three beers for a game you don’t really care about

It was kind of surreal when Tom Brady retired.

It shouldn’t have been shocking that a 44-year-old who had accomplished more than anyone else in the history of the sport decided to call it a career as he quite literally had nothing left to prove, but it was stunning all the same.

I suppose we all took it for granted that he’d, I don’t know, just keep playing. That’s what he said he was going to do after all. I believe his quote was — I’m paraphrasing — that he would keep playing until he sucked. And he never sucked.

I loved that he just retired without the farewell tour that’s becoming all too common these days across sports. He caught us all off guard and just called it quits. And good for him.

What does this have to do with anything?

Well, Brady’s retiring just made me think about how for the first time in what feels like a really long time, New England sports fans really don’t have a vested interest in this Sunday’s Super Bowl. The Patriots didn’t make it and neither did Brady’s Buccaneers. And it’s not like either of the participants is a longtime Patriots nemesis either.

Do you have strong feelings about who wins between the transplanted Los Angeles Rams and the Cincinnati Bengals? I sure don’t, though I suppose I’ll technically be rooting for the Bengals as it feels like L.A. has just won enough in general.

But who cares? Let’s drink some beers and eat some wings and all get heartburn together and not stress about the game itself. We’ve earned this.

So let’s embrace how care-free the Super Bowl can be if you don’t really care who wins. Here are three New Hampshire beers to help you do just that.

Team of Rivals Mango New England IPA by Able Ebenezer Brewing Co. (Merrimack) in collaboration with Backyard Brewery (Manchester)

This beer makes you go “woah.” (Or is it “whoa?”) [Editor’s note: It’s “whoa.”] It’s delightfully fruity but not overpoweringly sweet. When someone says New England-style IPA, to me, this is what the style is all about: hazy, juicy and exploding with flavor. IPAs can sort of overpower your tastebuds so I might suggest grabbing this to open your festivities and just enjoying the tropical deliciousness. That said, if you were to enjoy this with some spicy wings, I don’t think you’d regret that move.

North Beach Mexican Lager by Great Rhythm Brewing Co. (Portsmouth)

Why am I suggesting a Mexican lager during the most American of sporting events? Well, because your belly is full of IPA and chicken wings and your body is craving something lighter, something easier. This is perfectly light, crisp and yet plenty flavorful. Have this with some chili or maybe a pulled pork sandwich, or honestly, anything.

RVP (Robust Vanilla Porter) by Great North Aleworks (Manchester)

At this point, between the wings, the chili, and the pulled pork sandwiches, and who knows what else — not to mention the beer — you’ve probably consumed your fair share of calories for the week. It’s hard to believe just a few hours ago you were inputting your breakfast calories into your trusty calorie-counting app as if that was a worthwhile endeavor for Super Bowl Sunday. Also, there was probably some kind of dip you ate too much of. But maybe now you need something with just a touch of sweetness, you know, to balance out all the savory stuff. Enter RVP. It has a little sweetness from the vanilla and a little richness from the malt, but it’s also surprisingly dry and drinkable. My mom always made whoopie pies for my dad’s Super Bowl parties. Have an RVP with a whoopie pie as you close out the fourth quarter of this game you don’t really care about.

What’s in My Fridge

Plush Double IPA by Frost Beer Works (Hinesburg, Vermont) This is a delicious New England-style IPA featuring big notes of citrus, including orange and grapefruit and plenty of pine, too, along with minimal bitterness. This beer doesn’t taste like it’s 8 percent ABV, but it is, so be careful. Cheers!

Featured photo: North Beach Lager by Great Rhythm Brewing Company. Courtesy photo.

Bourbon simmered apples

It’s cold outside; make your home warmer with this simple apple dish.

This recipe is pretty simple, with some important caveats. Let’s start with ingredients. I recommend using Honeycrisp or Granny Smith apples, as both of them are good baking apples. They will become tender without losing their texture. Use Granny Smith if you prefer more tartness, and use Honeycrisp if you like a bit more sweetness.

Also, this recipe requires only two tablespoons of bourbon. While it is a small amount, it is a key part of this recipe, so be sure to use a bourbon that you would drink as is. You want the apples to be flavored with a bourbon that you enjoy.

Next, let’s talk about the cooking. The instructions note that the apples need five to 10 minutes of sauteing. The amount of time required can vary, depending on the ripeness of the apples and the settings on your stove. Be sure to keep an eye on the apples! Check for fork tenderness every couple minutes so you have apples that are tender but not mushy.

Once the cooking is done you have an extremely versatile dish. These apples are sweet enough that they could be the topping for ice cream or pound cake. They also are savory enough that they could be used as a topping for roast pork or chicken. You could even use these apples as a side dish on their own.

No matter how you choose to use them, they will warm you inside and out!

Bourbon simmered apples
Serves 2

2 Honeycrisp or Granny Smith apples
1 Tablespoon salted butter
3 teaspoons sugar
1 teaspoon cinnamon
2 Tablespoons bourbon

Cut the apples into quarters, and remove cores.
Cut each quarter into 3 or 4 slices; cut each slice in half lengthwise. (The most important thing is to have the slices be similarly sized.)
Heat a large nonstick frying pan over medium heat.
Add butter, stirring until melted.
Add apples to butter, and saute for 5 to 10 minutes, or until barely fork tender
Add cinnamon, sugar and bourbon, tossing constantly to coat.
Remove from heat, and serve immediately.

Photo: Bourbon simmered apples. Photo by Michele Pesula Kuegler.

Soup’s on

Epsom soup/chili/chowder cook-off to return

If you think you make the best bowl of soup, chili or chowder around, you’ll have a chance to prove it at Epsom Central School’s annual cook-off. Now through Feb. 14, entrants are welcome to participate in the friendly competition, which is due to return for its ninth year on Monday, March 7, from 5 to 7 p.m. inside the school’s gymnasium.

“It’s been a huge event for us, and it’s a great community builder,” school business secretary and cook-off coordinator Stephanie Colvin said. “We try to get different people in from all over.”

Originally conceived as a much smaller fundraiser mostly among the school’s teachers and staff, the cook-off has grown over the years to now feature dozens of entrants across three judging categories: soups, chilis and chowders. After a brief hiatus in 2021, the event is returning with a few tweaks, Colvin said, such as additional seating in the cafeteria to allow for distancing.

There is no fee to register as an entrant — soup and chili makers can access the entry form through the event’s Facebook page. Each participant also receives three free sampling tickets.

For tasters, tickets will be sold at the door and will include access to up to 10 four-ounce sampling cups per attendee for adults and five sampling cups for kids ages 10 and under, along with sides of corn bread. Part of the fun is that you never know which different flavors of soups, chilis and chowder you may encounter at the cook-off in any given year.

“You have your typical seafood chowders or your tomato soups,” Colvin said. “We’ve had a Tuscan soup and a chicken bacon wild rice soup. One year we had a dill pickle soup, and then somebody also did a chocolate raspberry delight soup … I feel like the stranger or the more curious it is, the more people are going to go over to try it.”

Chilis, meanwhile, also usually include an eclectic mix of options, from chicken or turkey to a venison chili. Entrants like to give their soups, chilis and chowders all kinds of unique names.

A panel of nine judges — three for each category — gives entrants a score on a 10-point scaling system and adds them all up at the end of the night. Winners from each of the three categories receive a “Souper Bowl” trophy, and the top vote getter also wins a $50 Visa gift card. Two People’s Choice recipients from each category are awarded ribbons.

Proceeds from the cook-off help fund various student activities at Epsom Central School, from field trips to clothing needs.

9th annual Epsom Central School soup/chili/chowder cook-off

When:
Monday, March 7, 5 to 7 p.m. (registrations are due by Monday, Feb. 14)
Where: Epsom Central School, 282 Black Hall Road, Epsom
Cost: $8 for adults and $6 for kids ages 10 and under (includes access to up to 10 four-ounce samples for adults and up to five samples for kids, plus cornbread). Tickets are sold at the door while supplies last. Registration as a soup, chili or chowder entrant is free.
More info: See “9th Annual ECS Soup/Chili/Chowder Cook-off” on Facebook, or email cook-off coordinator Stephanie Colvin at scolvin@sau53.org.
Entrants must provide at least one gallon or more of their soup, chili or chowder, along with a slow cooker, a large serving spoon or ladle, and a displayed list of its ingredients. Each entrant will also receive three free sampling tickets.

Featured photo: Three-time trophy winner Heather Brown will return to Epsom Central School’s ninth annual soup/chili/chowder cook-off on March 7. Courtesy photo.

Chocolate, cheese and more

Loon Chocolate and 603 Charcuterie join forces for new retail shop

Scott Watson was perusing Netflix one day in the winter of 2017 when he came across a documentary about a Southeast Asian coffeehouse. He tuned in to learn the shop also produced its own chocolate onsite — a catalyst for what would end up becoming his newest venture.

“It just triggered something in me and got me thinking, ‘How come I don’t know how chocolate is made?’” said Watson, who worked as a craft brewer during the mid to late 1990s at the now closed Nutfield Brewing Co. in Derry. “I started diving into it … and it brought me back to my brewing days. It fascinated me that there was fermentation involved, and that there seemed to be so many parallels to craft brewing. … It intrigued me enough to start making it at my house.”

Courtesy photo.

That was how Loon Chocolate, based in Manchester, was born — Watson sold his first chocolate bar in the spring of 2018. On Feb. 5, he opened his first retail shop, teaming up with Theresa Zwart of 603 Charcuterie to also feature New Hampshire-made specialty foods like cheeses, jams, hot sauces, crackers and mustards.

Watson and Zwart are the first commercial tenants of The Factory on Willow, a former Queen City shoe factory turned apartment and business complex. The new shop also has an adjoining chocolate production facility that is double the size of Watson’s former manufacturing space.

Loon’s chocolates are handcrafted in small batches from bean to bar, its cacao beans sourced from multiple growers across Bolivia, Belize, Uganda, Haiti and the Dominican Republic.

“We get beans in and we’re roasting and doing every single step from bean to bar,” Watson said. “There’s no curtain hiding people in the back room that are opening up pallets of pre-made chocolate and melting them down into an Easter Bunny for you.”

In addition to offering a lineup of 12 flavored bars, Watson has since expanded his product line to include bagged cacao nibs, dark chocolate cocoa bombs and a do-it-yourself chocolate-infused elixir kit. All of these items are now available for sale out of his new storefront.

Courtesy photo.

Zwart, meanwhile, is utilizing the space as a one-stop shop for all of the New Hampshire-made products featured on her charcuterie boards, like cheeses from Bell & Goose Cheese Co. of South Hampton and Abbot Hill Creamery of Wilton, cured meats from Short Creek Farm of Northwood, and mustards from the Blackwater Mustard Co. of Contoocook. Even the boards themselves, built by Souhegan Wood Designs of Amherst, are sold in various shapes and sizes.

Since launching 603 Charcuterie in late 2020 as a small takeout ordering business, Zwart has gone on to teach charcuterie board-building classes at local breweries and wineries, and has also expanded into catering larger boards and grazing tables for weddings. She and Watson first developed a business relationship last year when she started purchasing Loon’s chocolates for use on her boards. They’re also commonly served samples at her classes.

“We’re going to have charcuterie boxes to go, so premade charcuterie boards that people can just pick up,” Zwart said. “I want to bring in some other stuff in the next few weeks too, so things like honeys, maple syrups, and maybe an olive oil for dipping bread.”

Other items in the store include loose leaf teas from 27 Teas of Candia, cooking salts from the Maine Sea Salt Co., and craft marshmallows from Nomadic Kitchen of Vermont.

Events are already being planned for the space, starting with a multi-course tasting menu centered around Loon’s chocolate by Dahlia Restaurant, a series of farm-to-table pop-up dinners across New Hampshire. They’ll be hosting limited seatings on Friday, Feb. 11, and Saturday, Feb. 12 — one at 6 p.m. on Friday and two at 5 p.m. and 7:30 p.m. on Saturday.

“We’re also planning on doing some sort of chocolate and wine tasting … just to take advantage of the space that we have and to give the wineries a chance to talk about their products and pair them up with some chocolate,” Watson said.

Loon Chocolate & 603 Charcuterie

Where: The Factory on Willow, 252 Willow St., Manchester
Hours: Friday, Feb. 11, noon to 5:30 p.m., Saturday, Feb. 12, 10 a.m. to 3 p.m., and Sunday, Feb. 13, 8 to 11 a.m.; hours for future dates TBA
More info: Visit loonchocolate.com or 603charcuterie.com, or find them on Facebook and Instagram

Featured photo: Courtesy photos.

The Weekly Dish 22/02/10

News from the local food scene

Romantic meals: Still haven’t made plans yet for Valentine’s Day? There may still be time depending on where you go. Check out our listings that ran in the Feb. 3 issue; they begin on page 22. You’ll find dozens of special menus and dinners at local eateries, as well as sweet gift-giving ideas at chocolate and candy shops and bakeries with their own special offerings. Since Feb. 14 falls on a Monday this year, some businesses are opening their doors on the weekday when they would normally be closed, while others are choosing to celebrate all throughout the preceding weekend. Go to issuu.com/hippopress and click on the Feb. 3 issue to read the e-edition for free — and be sure to contact each establishment directly for the most up-to-date availability on reservations and takeout items.

More drive-thru Greek eats: Join Holy Trinity Greek Orthodox Church (68 N. State St., Concord) for its next boxed Greek dinner to go, a drive-thru takeout event, on Sunday, Feb. 20, from noon to 1 p.m. Now through Wednesday, Feb. 16, orders are being accepted for boxed meals featuring dinners of Greek meatballs, rice pilaf, Greek salad and a roll for $15 per person. The event is drive-thru and takeout only — email ordermygreekfood@gmail.com or call 953-3051 to place your order. The church is also planning a similar takeout and pickup meal featuring chicken and orzo, scheduled for March 13. Visit holytrinitynh.org.

Get into the spirit: The New Hampshire Liquor Commission has a couple of special virtual events planned for this week. On Friday, Feb. 11, from 6 to 7 p.m., they’ll be helping you gear up for the Big Game — brand representatives from Crown Royal, Smirnoff and Captain Morgan will be tuning in for some game day cocktail recipes and ideas, which you can also access by visiting liquorandwineoutlets.com/diageosuperbowl. Then on Thursday, Feb. 17, from 5 to 6 p.m., the NHLC will hold a behind-the-scenes tour of Fabrizia Spirits in Salem, which has grown into one of the leading purveyors of limoncello in the United States. After the tour, co-founder Phil Mastroianni will be sharing a cocktail recipe using Fabrizia’s crema di pistacchio, the newest addition to his product lineup. Both events are free to sign up via Zoom, or you can watch them live on Facebook @nhliquorwine (click the “live” tab to access the videos).

Make way for Mardi Gras: Save the date for A Mardi Gras Wine Festival, an event presented by St. Thomas Aquinas Church that’s happening at the Aquinas Center (26 Crystal Ave., Derry) on Saturday, Feb. 26, from 6 to 9 p.m. The evening will include samplings of several New Hampshire-made wines, along with live music, raffles, games, a door prize, food and more. Tickets are $40 per person or $70 per couple. Visit stthomasderry.org for more details, or call the church office at 432-5000 to purchase tickets.

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