Eat, Poop, Die, by Joe Roman

Eat, Poop, Die, by Joe Roman (Little, Brown Spark, 253 pages)

One of the most fascinating and underrated places on the planet is Surtsey, an island off the southern coast of Iceland born in the 1960s. This land mass, the product of a volcanic eruption, was hoisted above water as if offered on a platter by Poseiden himself, offering scientists the chance to study how life develops on an inhospitable slab of rock.

It turns out that despite the grandest theories of theologians and biologists, life — on this rock, anyway — needed something humble, and kind of gross, for it to emerge and take root. It needed excrement. It was nitrogen deposited on Surtsey via the waste of visiting seabirds that began the alchemy that led to vegetation growing on the island, leading to more animals colonizing the virgin island.

The story of Surtsey and its remarkable development over the past half century begins Eat, Poop, Die, Joe Roman’s surprisingly engaging study of how the most basic of functions contributes to the world’s ecology. The book’s crude title and attendant jokes (“Perfect bathroom reading” reads one commendation on Roman’s website) detract from the seriousness of the work, and its elegance. That said, it takes some work to get the average reader interested in how excrement and rotting corpses power the planet, so perhaps a little levity (including a sideways photo of the author on the book jacket) was necessary.

Roman, a scholar at the Gund Institute for Environment at the University of Vermont, can tell you more about whale poop than you want to know: for example, “In addition to being rich in nitrogen and phosphorus, the concentration of iron in whale poop is more than ten million times greater than in the surrounding seawater in the Southern Ocean.”

Whales’ nutrient-rich excrement helps nourish microscopic animals, and when whales die and their carcasses sink to the ocean floor, they create a habitat called “whale fall” which is ecologically important because, as Roman writes, “The abyssal seafloor is a vast nutrient-poor desert.” When whales are hunted to near extinction, or stranded on beaches and their corpses blown up with explosives, the natural order is disrupted in a way that is no less destructive because it is invisible to humans.

Similarly, Roman looks at the surprising connection between salmon and forest growth in Alaska and the Pacific Northwest. What do fish have to do with trees? A lot, it turns out, when the fish are the favorite meal of bears who live in those forests, as well as other creatures that eat salmon, such as eagles, mink, coyotes and wolves.

Scientists are able to determine where nitrogen in plant life originates by a chemical signature that varies by flora and fauna. And there are researchers whose jobs involve comparing the trees next to streams full of salmon with trees that grow next to salmon-less rivers. Spoiler alert: The salmon-adjacent trees “grew faster and taller — which was good for the salmon, as more shade and large woody debris provided cooler summer temperatures and river structure that aided in salmon reproduction and growth.”

The reason, scientists speculate, is the marine-derived nitrogen in the fish gets distributed in the forest through bear excrement. “The salmon life cycle and the massive pulse of nutrients the fish deliver are crucial aspects of forest ecosystems. The trees, streams, and salmon are all connected.”

Roman writes not just from a desk but from deep in the field. For his chapter on salmon he visits a salmon research station in Alaska; he travels to Surtsey, and to Yellowstone National Park to observe how the reintroduction of wolves changed the ecosystem there. As one sign in the park explains it, “Although wolves do not directly affect all life around them, their effects possibly tumble down the entire food chain. This hypothesis is called a ‘trophic cascade.’”

And don’t count the buffalo out — they have roles as groundskeepers, with their excrement depositing nitrogen and phosphorus into the soil. As bison disappeared on the prairies, so did their natural fertilization. Roman interviews a Native American who calls bison “eco-engineers” because in addition to the nutrients they leave behind, they plow the fields with their hooves. This is not a book for reading while you’re eating lunch, as I learned when coming across something called the Bristol Stool Chart, an illustrated scale of the variety of human feces, used by medical practitioners. And of course, human excrement is addressed here; mammals defecate about 1 percent of their body weight every day, with humans making about two trillion pounds of waste each year, much of which is not contributing in a positive way to the planet’s ecology. But some is — I learned, with some dismay, that some people fertilize their gardens with their own urine. (It’s called “pee-cycling,” and yes, Roman tried it, although fist bump to his family who wouldn’t let him set up the system at home or use it in their garden. Instead his urine went to a pee-cycling center in Brattleboro, Vermont.)

But the bulk of the book is about non-human animals and the largely unnoticed role their bodily functions serve in our world. While Roman is careful to note that some of the theories he writes about are unproven, he makes a convincing case that when animal populations shrink, we’d best pay attention, because there are costs other than not being able to see a certain species anymore. In centuries past, for example, John James Audubon famously described migrating pigeons as blocking out the sun; others have described rivers so dense with salmon that you could walk across the water on top of the fish.

Roman believes that replenishing depleted populations is “one of the best nature-based tools we have to face the climate crisis. Wild animals, through their movements and behaviors — their eating, pooping and dying — can help rebuild ecosystems, recycle and redistribute nutrients, keep the planet a little cooler, and address the biodiversity crisis.” We need to “rewild the world,” he says, in a conclusion that is more of an op-ed than a science book. Having established himself as an authority on poop, who are we to argue? It’s a fine book for animal lovers, climate warriors and science geeks, but otherwise may struggle to find an audience. B

Album Reviews 23/12/21

Dollyrots, “Auld Lang Syne” (Wicked Cool Records)

I absolutely hate New Year’s Eve. It’s the last celebratory moment before everything freezes here in New England for a good four or fifty months, and in honor of that, the lowest-tier 20something-age drinkers are out and about, having fun while we marrieds try to stay awake till midnight as if we’re somehow relevant. I’m basking in a little joy here, though: Finally a holiday record darkens my emailbox, after I’d given up hope (I probably missed like 20 of them, and I do apologize to any PR person who sent me news about one I absentmindedly deleted), and look at this, it’s a husband-wife punk team (the lady plays bass and sings, hubby does the guitars) who used to be on Joan Jett’s Blackheart Records label, doing everyone’s — OK, my, after “O Holy Night” and “Feliz Navidad” — least favorite holiday song. It starts out semi-seriously, as tedious as any other rock version you’ve heard, then it moves to a sort-of-fast tempo, nothing too wild, just something they’re probably hoping will make it onto a rom-com soundtrack, mostly to be annoying. I have no idea why I bothered with this at all. C

Various “Artists,” Yule Log Jamz: The World’s Hottest Wood Burning Sounds (Pretty Good Friends Records)

Fine, if I’m going to get trolled, I’m passing it along to my thousands of readers. This looked to me like a holiday record, but actually it’s a variation on the virtual “Yule log,” or “crackling fireplace” that can be found on Netflix and elsewhere. Pretty Good Friends is a comedy label, not that I can for the life of me remember reviewing one of their comedy albums, and I’m (all together now) too lazy to look, but yeah, it’s kind of funny in its way. This consists of videotapes of 11 different log fires from different countries, with no talking or anything, including “the party-pumping flames of Germany, the polite crackles of Canada, and the hygge-hysterical hotness of Sweden. Plus New Zealand lit up some Manuka wood like you’ve never heard it before!!” Anyway, you can find it at prettygoodfriends.com/fire, where you can pay $5 to own it forever, or just be normal and cheap and simply stream the YouTube version at their channel. They also offer a festive “Smells Like Something’s Burning” soy candle if you have $15 that you don’t figure you’d ever otherwise use under any circumstances whatsoever ever. A

Playlist

A seriously abridged compendium of recent and future CD releases

• Oh by gosh by golly, it’s time for no new CDs to come out on Friday, Dec. 22, just like every year on the last Friday before ChristmaKwanzaKkah! I’ll tell you, hopelessness abounds, fam, hopelessness abounds, I’ll bet there are like zero new albums coming out for me to talk about here, and I’ll have to resort to riffing about how I couldn’t find candy canes at Walmart the other week to put on my HannuChristmaKwanazaa tree! There were literally none, which was insane, but if you want to read the whole story you’ll have to “friend” me on Facebook, but be patient; I usually only get around to checking my Facebook notifications once a month, as long as the month has a full moon in it somewhere. Oh, forget it, it’s no use, I’m going to do the dutiful and look for some albums to write about for all you good little boys and girls, you deserve a big huge ChrisHannuKwan cookie of snark, and by the gods, I will deliver, you’re just going to have to give me a minute to find something! (20 minutes later) Ack, ack, there’s nothing anywhere! Let me check Amazon, maybe Jeff Bezos isn’t too busy building his giant toy NASA to let us poor music journos know about some new albums! Wait, here’s one, from Conway the Machine and Wun Two, whoever in tarnation that is, it’s a new album, titled Palermo! This project unites Buffalo, N.Y., rapper Conway the Machine and German lo-fi producer Wun Two. The sample track I decided to, you know, sample, was “Brick By Brick,” a good example of awkward downtempo weirdness, over which Conway spits a bunch of venomous but unadventurous prattle while rapping like he’s eating a meatball sub. It’s cool, don’t get me wrong.

• I’ll tell ya, folks, for ultimate weirdness, you can’t do much better than Louisville, Kentucky’s Bo Daddy Harris, who as a kid wanted to grow up to become a superstar of something-anything. Hey, man, like I always say, if you can’t make the Who’s Who, you can always try for the What-The-Heck-Was-That, and guess what, he succeeded, folks! He continues his tradition of What-The-Heck-Was-That-ness on his new album, It’s a Southern Thing, and it’s always trippy to see him do his thing, singing his weird country tunes in that — voice of his. The closest experience I can think of to watching him sing one of his old-school country songs in his super-low weirdo voice — which you’d never expect to hear coming out of him, being that he looks like a typical Zoomer incel who’s employed at an Apple store talking to boomers about technology despite the fact that he wouldn’t know an embedded operating system from Jethro Clampett — was the first time I saw Gomer Pyle sing opera like Placido Domingo, but that’s OK! He tried doing comedy but that didn’t pan out, so obviously he was born for this, being a cross between Hank Williams Sr. and Tom Waits. Seriously, go check out one of his YouTubes, you’ll melt down completely.

• Ack, ack, there’s nothing but metal albums left, fam, except for some other CD that we’ll get to in a minute. Let’s see, we have the snobbily named Colombian thrash band Funeral Vomit, with their new album, Monumental Putrescence, which I guarantee would make a great gift for your grandma, and U.K. act Ulfarr, with their new one, Orlegscaeft! Ulfarr wears spooky eye makeup, so proceed with caution!

• We’ll vamoose for the week after one more, This Is New Tone, the new compilation LP from Bad Time Records! One of the sample tracks is “Better Home” by We Are The Union; it’s a frenzied ska-punk track that will appeal to millennials who thought Sublime were too wimpy and boring, which, of course, they were.

Butterscotch Drops

It was 1950. The war was over, the economy was booming New suburbs were springing up all over the country, and with them modern kitchens.

The Betty Crocker Cookbook circa 1950 was a sort of guidebook for America’s new generation of cooks. It taught readers the basics of middle-class cooking and introduced home cooks to new ideas. This is one of them.

Butterscotch Drops with Brown Butter Icing

  • 8 Tablespoons (1 stick) room-temperature butter
  • 1½ cup (320 grams) dark brown sugar
  • 2 eggs
  • 1 cup (227 grams) sour cream
  • 1 Tablespoon Scotch whisky – I used Glenlivet (Betty suggested “vanilla”, but I can read between the lines)
  • 2¾ cups (330 grams) all-purpose flour
  • ½ teaspoon baking soda
  • ½ teaspoon baking powder
  • ½ teaspoon salt

In a medium bowl, whisk together the dry ingredients — flour, baking soda, baking powder and salt. Set aside.

In a stand mixer, or with a hand mixer, cream the butter and brown sugar together. If you have a robust stand mixer, and you forget to leave the butter on your counter to soften, your mixer will have your back; it will power through and cream everything. It will just take a little longer.

Beat in the eggs, one at a time. This should pull the mixture together into a consistent batter. Eggs are what is called an emulsifier: They make it easy for fatty ingredients to mix with everything else.

Add the scotch and sour cream, and mix to combine.

Mix in the dry ingredients. To avoid a cloud of flour poofing up out of the mixer, try spooning it in a couple of tablespoons at a time.

When everything is well-mixed, chill the dough for a couple hours or, ideally, overnight. I just leave it in the mixing bowl, cover it with a dollar store shower cap, and put it in the refrigerator to rest.

Later (imagine a harp-music montage), preheat your oven to 425°F.

Scoop “rounded teaspoonfuls” of batter onto either a lightly oiled baking sheet or one with a silicone mat or a sheet of parchment paper. Leave 2 inches between dough blobs. I found it difficult to make nice little teaspoon-sized dough balls; I used two teaspoons (like you actually use for tea) and used them to scoop up some wet dough and deposit it on the cookie sheet.

Bake for 8 to 10 minutes. They will be ready when they are very slightly brown and if you touch one you won’t leave an impression of your finger. When you remove them from the oven, let them cool on the baking sheet.

This makes about four dozen cookies. Apparently in the 1950s they didn’t take a half-hearted approach to baking.

Burnt Butter” Butterscotch Icing

  • 12 Tablespoons (1½ sticks) butter
  • 3 cups (342 grams) powdered sugar
  • 3 Tablespoons Scotch whisky

In a small saucepan, melt, then brown the butter over low heat. If you haven’t done this before, it is easy-peasy, but you have to watch it like a hawk. Swish the melted butter around in the pan frequently, and pull it from the heat just before it is brown like dark toast.

Combine the butter, powdered sugar and whisky, and stir until it forms an icing. If it is too stiff, add a tablespoon or so of water, but be very conservative about adding it. Use this to ice the cookies.

It might seem weird to use Scotch whisky in a cookie recipe, but butterscotch tastes extra intense and very, very good when you make it with real butter and real scotch. By themselves, the cookies have a delicate brown sugar flavor, a bit like the background flavor of a chocolate chip cookie, but when combined with the scotchy icing they become a flavor powerhouse.

Featured photo: Butterscotch Drops with Brown Butter Icing. Photo by John Fladd.

Last meal of 2023

Ring in the new year with dinner, parties, Champagne and more

New Year’s Eve reservations fill up fast, so make those plans for dining on Sunday, Dec. 31, early. Here are a few of the places offering special eats. Know of a restaurant with a New Year’s Eve seating? Let us know at [email protected]; check next week’s Weekly Dish for updates.

815 Cocktails and Provisions (815 Elm St., Manchester, 815nh.com, 782-8086) hosts a futuristic sci-fi themed New Year’s Eve party with music, dancing, prizes, a photo booth, an open bar menu and small appetizers. General admission tickets are $120 and can be purchased via eventbrite.

Alan’s Restaurant (133 N Main St., Boscawen, 753-6631, alansofboscawen.com) hosts a New Year’s Eve party starting at 8 p.m. Call for reservations and tickets.

• Welcome the new year at Averill House Vineyard (21 Averill Road, Brookline, averillhousevineyard.com, 244-3165) with a wine pairing and five-course Brazilian dinner. Doors open at 6:30 p.m. for a guided tour of the vineyard production room and wine cellar, and dinner will be served at 7 p.m. Get your tickets at exploretock.com.

Bedford Village Inn (2 Olde Bedford Way, Bedford, 472-2001, bedfordvillageinn.com) will serve a four-course prix fixe dinner. Seating times are 5:30 p.m. through 9:30 p.m. and the cost is $110 per adult. Make your reservation on their website.

Buckley’s Great Steaks (438 Daniel Webster Hwy., Merrimack, buckleysgreasteaks.com, 424-0995) is taking reservations for New Year’s Eve.

• Celebrate the new year and the 11th anniversary of Cask & Vine (1 1 /2 E. Broadway, Derry, caskandvine.com, 965-3454) during their New Year’s Eve pajama party starting at 5 p.m. An a la carte menu will be available with their usual draft list, cocktails and wine. Visit their website.

CJ’s Great West Grill (782 S. Willow St., Manchester, 627-8600, cjsgreatwewstgrille.com) will close at 10 p.m.

Colby Hill Inn (33 The Oaks, Henniker, 428-2581, colbyhillinn.com) holds a Chef’s Sparkling New Year’s Eve Wine Dinner featuring five courseds from 7 to 10:30 p.m. on New Year’s Eve. Courses four and five must be pre-selected upon making a reservation or one week in advance.

Copper Door (15 Leavy Drive, Bedford, 488-2677, copperdoor.com)is accepting reservations until 9 p.m. and will be open until 11 p.m.

Epoch Gastropub (90 Front St., Exeter, 778-3762, epochrestaurant.com) will serve dinner from 5 to 10 p.m.

Firefly Bistro & Bar (22 Concord St., Manchester, fireflynh.com, 95-9740) is serving brunch from 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. and dinner from 4 to 10 p.m. Visit their website to make reservations.

The Foundry Restaurant (50 Commercial St., Manchester, foundrynh.com, 836-1925) will be open from 9 a.m. to noon New Year’s Eve, and will be open for dinner service New Year’s Day from 4 to 9 p.m.

Fratello’s Italian Grille’s(799 Union Ave., Laconia, 528-2022; 155 Dow St., Manchester, 624-2022; fratellos.com) New Year’s Eve menu includes antipasti, like seafood-stuffed mushrooms and Sicilian sausage soup, salads and entrees like roast prime rib, seafood fettuccine, grilled dill salmon and more.

Friendly Red’s Tavern (22 Haverhill Road, Route 111, Windham, 437-7251; 111 W Broadway, Derry, 404-6606, friendlyredstavern.net) will be open during its normal hours.

Greenleaf (54 Nashua St., Milford, greenleafmilford.com, 213-5447) is serving a four-course meal with seatings at 5, 6 , 7 and 8 p.m. For the first course, coriander sumac-crusted tuna with parsnip, charred leek, blood orange and pancetta jam and mizuna will be served, followed by cavatelli, duck confit with mushroom, celeriac, truffle and quail egg. The third course consists of beef wellington, sweet potato, red cabbage and charred shallot marrow jus, and caramelized banana mousse, fig, chocolate, caramel and pistachio for dessert. Reservations are required and can be made online.

LaBelle Winery in Derry (14 Route 111, labellewinery.com, 672-9898) will celebrate the new year from 6 to 10:30 p.m. with a three-course dinner, live music and a stroll through LaBelle lights. Tickets are $120 and can be purchased at labellewinery.com.

Mike’s Italian Kitchen (212 Main St., Nashua, mikesitaliannh.com, 595-9334) is taking reservations for parties of any size.

Mile Away Restaurant (52 Federal Hill Road, Milford, mileawayrestaurantnh.com, 673-3904) is taking reservations for New Year’s Eve. On the menu is scallops and lobster ravioli, boursin chicken en croute, grilled duck breast and more. Dessert options include chocolate mousse cake, lemon mascarpone, cheesecake and more. Call to make your reservation.

New England Taphouse Grille (1292 Hooksett Road, Hooksett, taphouseNH.com, 782-5137) will be open from 11:30 a.m. to 8 p.m.

The Peddler’s Daughter (48 Main St., Nashua, thepeddlersdaughter.com, 821-7535) will be open from 10 a.m. New Year’s Eve to 1 a.m. New Year’s Day.

Pembroke Pines Country Club (45A Whittemore Road, Pembroke, pembrokepinescc.com, 210-1365) is hosting a New Year’s Eve celebration at 6:30 p.m. to 12:30 a.m. on Monday, Jan. 1, with dinner, drinks, dancing and entertainment from comedians. Tickets are $160 and can be purchased on eventbrite.com.

Pizzico (7 Harold Drive, Nashua, 633-8993; 7 Continental Blvd., 424-1000, pizzicorestaurant.com) will be open regular hours, from noon to 9 p.m.

Portsmouth Gas Light (64 Market St., Portsmouth, portsmouthgaslight.com, 430-8582) is having a New Year’s Eve winter wonderland party starting at 8 p.m. with passed hors d’oeuvres, Champagne and a buffet. VIP tickets include reserved seating and private food service. Make your reservations now online.

Red Arrow Diner (112 Loudon Road, Concord, 415-0444; 137 Rockingham Road, Londonderry, 552-3091; 61 Lowell St., Manchester, 626-1118; 149 Daniel Webster Hwy., Nashua, 204-5088, redarrowdiner.com) is open for its regular hours (Concord, Londonderry and Nashua open 5:30 a.m. to 10:30 p.m.; Manchester open 24 hours).

Saddle Up Saloon (92 Route 125, Kingston, saddleupsaloonnh.com, 347-1313) hosts a New Year’s Eve party from 6 to 8 p.m. with a pizza buffet at midnight. Reservations can be made between 6 and 7 p.m. Dinner selections include prime rib, half roasted chicken and baked haddock, each with mashed potatoes and vegetables.

The Shaskeen Pub and Restaurant (909 Elm St., Manchester, theshaskeenpub.com, 625-0246) will again host its New Year’s Eve Bash from 8 p.m. to 1 a.m. with a dinner buffet, Champagne toast and a DJ. Visit their Facebook page @TheShaskeenPubandRestaurant.

The Side Bar’s(845 Lafayette Road, Hampton, thesidebarnh.com, 601-6311) New Year’s Eve party starts at 9 p.m. and includes drink specials and their full menu available until midnight. Tickets are $10 on eventbrite or $15 at the door.

Surf (207 Main St., Nashua, 595-9293; 99 Bow St., Portsmouth, 334-9855, surfseafood.com) is taking reservations via phone.

T-Bones (25 S. River Road, Bedford, 641-6100; 404 Main St., Concord; 39 Crystal Ave., Derry, 434-3200; 77 Lowell Road, Hudson, 882-6677; 1182 Union Ave., Laconia; 311 S. Broadway, Salem, greatnhrestaurants.com) will be open until 10 p.m.

The Village Trestle (25 Main St., Goffstown, villagetrestle.com, 497-8230) will be open from 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m.

The Weekly Dish 23/12/21

News from the local food scene

Doughnut and wine pairing: One of Wine on Main’s (9 N. Main St., Concord) most popular events with NH Doughnut Co. returns on Wednesday, Jan. 24, and Thursday, Jan. 25, from 6:30 to 8 p.m. After enjoying three doughnuts paired with three wines, decorate two doughnuts of your own. Tickets are $30 and go on sale Monday, Jan. 4, for the first night.

Blankets and brews: All Ways Art hosts a chunky blanket making class at Spyglass Brewing (306 Innovative Way, Nashua) on Thursday, Dec. 28, at 6 p.m. Each blanket will require five rolls of yarn, which will be provided with multiple color choices. By the end of the night you’ll have a full-size throw blanket. Tickets are $90 and include a beer. Visit allwaysart.com to purchase.

Pot and sip: Also at Spyglass Brewing Co., Thursday, Dec. 28, will see The Knotted Finds hosting a DIY terrarium event from 6 to 8 p.m. Plants, rocks, moss and soil will all be provided. Each participant will receive a drink ticket for a beer. It is $35 to attend and you must be 21 years or older. Get tickets at theknottedfinds.com/events.

Candles and wine: Enjoy wine and make 19 custom tealight candles in scents and colors of your choosing with Ross, owner of Candle Tree Soy Candles at Wine on Main (9 N. Main St., Concord) on Tuesday, Jan. 9, and Wednesday, Jan. 10, from 6:30 to 8 p.m. Tickets are $40 per person. Sign up at wineonmainnh.com.

Treasure Hunt 23/12/21

Dear Donna,

Do you have any knowledge of this kind of bracelet? It’s the characters from the movie The Wizard of Oz. I found it a couple years ago at a yard sale.

Annette

Dear Annette,

Can I start off by saying how sweet it looks? I personally love The Wizard of Oz!

Your character bracelet was produced by Warner Bros. back in the 1960s. It is a gold wash color over a base metal. The characters have a comic look to them. But you can’t help but love them all.

I have seen several versions of collectible jewelry for The Wizard of Oz, from gold to silver to costume jewelry like yours.

It appears to be in good shape and all there. The value for one like yours would be in the $40 range. Tiny treasure that I’m sure was made in mass at the time, but a piece of the wonderful Wizard of Oz.

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