Every Valley, by Charles King

Every Valley, by Charles King (Doubleday, 277 pages)

George Frideric Handel was not the only inspired composer to emerge during the period of time known as the Enlightenment; Bach, Beethoven, Haydn and Mozart were also products of 17th- and 18th-century Europe.

But beloved as all of these composers are, it is Handel who reigns throughout the Christmas season, thanks to his preeminent work Messiah.

It’s widely known that Handel composed the music in just 24 days, but there’s much more to the story than that. It took a village, as it were, to create Messiah as we know it today. In Every Valley, Georgetown University professor Charles King examines the players in this story and weaves their stories together, against a cultural backdrop that is not so different from ours as we might think.

“The Enlightenment as most people actually experienced it had fewer wigs and masked balls than we might imagine today, and far more pain and muddling through,” King writes, as he lays out the cultural and economic landscape of the time.

“Politicians and critics traded barbs via pamphlets and cartoons in much the same way that social media works now. Insurrections, riots, and rebellions regularly shook the governing establishment.” Wars fomented, and slavery flourished.

Meanwhile, an eccentric, wealthy bachelor named Charles Jennens — “so afraid of the cold that he lay under six blankets in winter and four in summer” — became enamored of the idea that the prophecies and promises of the Hebrew scriptures, coupled with their fulfillment in the New Testament, offered hope for the challenging age and could best be conveyed in a musical performance. He began work on what he called a “Scripture Collection” with the thought that he might engage a past-his-prime composer to set the verses to music.

“At the heart of [Jennens’] work was not so much a statement of faith as a test of will — an affirmation of something Jennens himself had always found hard to believe in,” King writes. “It was the staggering possibility that the world might turn out all right.”

King became interested in the full story of Messiah after listening to a 1927 performance recorded in England that brought both him and his wife to tears. He learned that Handel was a celebrated musician even as a young man (in his 20s, his reputation was already such that one person would make the sign of the cross ironically when his name was mentioned). But by the time he was recruited to write this oratorio, Handel was nearing the age of 60, physically ailing and suspected to be past his prime professionally.

King takes us from the early days of Handel’s professional life, from “Rinaldo” and “Water Music,” to the composer’s association with members of the royal family and notables like Alexander Pope and Jonathan Swift. And because King is writing the definitive book on Messiah’s creation, his narrative frequently devolves into side stories of secondary characters, such as the salacious personal life of Susannah Cibber, the woman who would perform the alto solos at Messiah’s premiere and experience a sort of salvation through her association with the work.

These stories, while interesting enough, at times feel a bit like an unwelcome interruption into the most compelling one: the intersection of the lives of Jennens and Handel, men who seem to have needed each other like Woodward needed Bernstein.

Jennens was the epitome of what Americans call “the elite” — he “apparently had no ambition other than to lead the life of a gentleman” and seemed to have been something of a hot-house flower. But he filled his home with books, music and art, creating “a private sanctuary filled with evidence of what the world could be, rather than reminders of what it usually was.” And he had a special affinity for Handel, whom he called “the Prodigious,” and collected all his music with the zeal of your typical American Swiftie.

Meanwhile, an aging Handel was suffering from competition and losing patrons. While an extraordinarily gifted musician and composer, he had, throughout his career, relied on others for “words and stories [he] might render into song.” When he set out to put to music the scripture collection that Jennens had named Messiah, he completed the work in a little over three weeks, but it may or may not have been as divinely inspired as we have been led to believe.

According to King, a statement that has been attributed to Handel about the creation of the “Hallelujah Chorus” — “I did think I did see all Heaven before me, and the great God himself” — is dubiously sourced a century later. (He also throws water on the oft-told story of how audiences came to stand during the Chorus.)

Jennens was not present when Messiah debuted before an audience of about 700 in Dublin, with the proceeds of the night going to a local hospital and infirmary and to pay off the debts of “incarcerated paupers.” It was better-received by the audience, one of whom called it “a species of musick different from any other,” than by the man who had first imagined it, and Jennens later demanded changes, and for a while didn’t want to be associated with it. (He wrote to a confidante, “His Messiah has disappointed me.”)

It’s just as well, as popular history has largely forgotten Jennen’s role, while time has elevated Messiah and its composer to mythic proportions. The original work, which took up both sides of 130 pages, still exists in a vault at the British Library and can be viewed online (and in photographs in this book), ink blots and all.

As for the story of its creation, it’s hard to see how anyone could craft a history more comprehensive than what King has produced in Every Valley although it’s not for the casual reader or the seasonal Messiah enthusiast who lacks an attendant desire to delve into the history of the age. It’s a serious and scholarly work that keeps its distance from the religious ecstasy that its subject inspires, and insists on schooling the readers on European history, whether they’re interested or not.

Moreover, in his curious need to draw parallels to contemporary society, King at times seems to tread dangerously close to political commentary.

However, for those seeking holiday reading that is not of the Hallmark variety, Every Valley hits all the high notes. B+Jennifer Graham

Album Reviews 24/11/28

Blue Moods, Force and Grace (Posi-Tone Records)

American jazz trumpet legend Freddie Hubbard has been gone since 2008, and of course he’ll never be forgotten, especially not by the — let’s just say it, often snobby crowd (mostly composed of deeply obsessed jazz musicians) who can rattle off a mile-long list of his most interesting instrumental maneuvers. This is the third “Blue Moods” release — or curation, if you will — from Posi-Tone, and it aims to address that very disconnect, wherein non-standard originals by various masters are made inaccessible to new fans possessed of an ounce of curiosity about what led to our current age of anything-goes-but-only-up-to-a-point era of jazz. There’s much beauty and whiz-bang-ery here, of course, but the smoothness of the songs is the most striking aspect of the collection; in such compositions as “On The Que-Tee,” the players — a quartet led by sax player Diego Rivera, assisted by an alternating pair of pianists — seem to want to jam forever, and the listener finds themself wishing for exactly that. Sublime and wonderful, this. A+ —Eric W. Saeger

Peter Murphy & Boy George, “Let The Flowers Grow” (Metropolis Records)

Now that 2024’s culture-war-rooted election is over, it’s safe to say that this chill-electro single can be listened to with open minds from all corners, particularly since it’s such an exquisite little tune. The story here is that this highly unlikely team-up of ’80s icons (Boy George, who needs no introduction, and Peter Murphy of goth legends Bauhaus) coalesced when Murphy heard a work-in-progress demo of George’s half-finished tune, fell in love with it and finished it up in 20 minutes. It’s a melancholy but hopeful piece of chill-techno balladry with plenty of retro-’80s sound to it, lyrically dedicated to the process of coming out, a reality I experienced recently with someone close to me, someone I’d long casually surmised was gay but from whom I’d never expected to hear an admission thereof. The pair sing of a mother’s tears watering the ground so that flowers can grow, of a father facing an alternate-universe mirror image of himself for the first time. This thing isn’t just powerful, it’s supremely empowering; the video is absolutely amazing. A+ —Eric W. Saeger

PLAYLIST

A seriously abridged compendium of recent and future CD releases

• Nov. 29 isn’t just any Friday filled with new album releases, it is a Black Friday, the jolliest time of the year, when all the bands and record companies prepare for a relentless onslaught of random album-buying, from consumers, who have holiday gifts to buy! For people in the music-selling business, it’s that time of year that recalls the scene in the 1975 film Jaws, when all the nice townspeople gather at the town meeting to discuss why they must keep the beaches open even though there’s a humongous shark swimming around looking for human-shaped snacks; in this metaphorical context, the record companies need you people to buy albums even though most of those albums will swallow your aesthetic senses whole, in one bite, nom nom nom, leaving you butt-twerking or believing that bands like Franz Ferdinand are composed of decent musicians! Extending this ridiculous violation of literary license, you can just think of me as Quint: I’ll protect all you nice people from awful bands and DJs and nepo-baby singers named after European cities, but it’ll cost you, and you’ll need to load up my boat with fresh boxes of saltines! OK, let’s put on our rubber diving suits, hop into the totally safe aluminum shark cage, and dive into the blackness to see what we’ll find, maybe there’s something good! Uh oh, here comes a big one, it’s corporate-soundtrack-maker Bear McCreary with The Lord of the Rings: The Rings of Power Season 2: Amazon Original Series Soundtrack, when did J.R.R. Tolkien have time to write more stories about Bilbo Baggins, I wonder. I do have Amazon Prime but haven’t watched that show, is it as good as those other Game of Thrones cartoons or whatever they are? I don’t know, but I do know that the leadoff track from this album is “Old Tom Bombadil,” and it features Rufus Wainwright, singing in his folky Bono-meets-Pete Seeger tenor, warbling Tolkien’s words verbatim from the chapters “The Old Forest” and “In the House of Tom Bombadil” from The Fellowship of the Ring. I gather that this denotes a depressing scene in the show, which, again, I have not watched, because I don’t watch sad cartoons about dragons.

• Onward and whatnot, let’s dissect an actual holiday album, Christmas Vacation, from cowboy-hat singer Walker Hayes. This singing man is of course a nepo baby (drink!), the son of a rich U.S. congressperson, but I will not hold that against him, because he likes jingle bells and Santa just like normal people do. Unfortunately, the “Christmas Vacation” in this case has nothing to do with the Chevy Chase movie, it is a twangy country-Christmas joke song about how awkward it is when Grandma brings over her new boyfriend and how it’s so funny that the ashes of her first husband, your grandfather, are kept in an urn and that you have to drink your yearly holiday beer toast with his urn all alone and it’s weird. You know how it is, right?

• Yes, it’s holiday time, a special time for those of you who are so rich you just throw money out your car window. If you’re that rich and you’re also a fan of former Cream guitarist Eric Clapton, you’ll want to know about Eric Clapton’s Crossroads Guitar Festival 2023, a $90 box set featuring every star from Joe Bonamassa to Molly Tuttle playing random songs. Look at this, there’s H.E.R. playing a cover of Lenny Kravitz’s “Are You Gonna Go My Way,” the least uninteresting thing on board.

• Lastly it’s famous indie rock band Wilco with Hot Sun Cool Shroud, an EP featuring six or seven tunes they left off their 2023 Cousin album. “Hot Sun” is a pretty neat mid-tempo thing, utilizing an edgy-poppy-edgy song structure. —Eric W. Saegerr

In the kitchen with Jonathan Buatti

Jonathan Buatti, owner and head baker at Bearded Baking Co. (819 Union St., Manchester, 647-7150, beardedbaking.com)

Jon started his culinary career at a family friend’s restaurant in Hampton Beach. Jon was typically a bus boy at the restaurant but volunteered to take a plated dessert shift in an attempt to switch it up. From there, he graduated from Salem High School’s Culinary Tech program, earned his associate’s degree in Baking and Culinary Arts from Southern New Hampshire University, and his bachelor’s degree in Culinary Management from SNHU. In 2019 Jon purchased the Bearded Baking Co. (formally known as Michelle’s Gourmet Pastries and Deli), where he is currently providing customers with breakfast, lunch, pastries and custom cakes. In the fall of 2020 Jon was selected to compete on Food Network’s Holiday Baking Championship.

What is your must-have kitchen item?

A super-sharp knife. I’ve learned that cooking is much safer with a sharp well-cared-for blade than not … .

What’s your must-have kitchen item?

It’s a combo of cake-decorating tools for me — a bench scraper and an offset spatula. With those two things, I can do anything. The bench scraper is brilliant because it allows me to get cakes perfectly at 90 degrees — perfectly flush with the board and level on top. And then the offset spatula allows me to pull the edges cleanly on top, so if you look at a cake head on, it looks like a square.

What would you have for your last meal?

It would have to be barbecue — ribs or brisket or something, just a good barbecued meal. It’s sweet and smoky. Barbecue, wings, barbecue chicken pizza, pulled pork, the list goes on and on.

What is your favorite local eatery?

For my wife and me, the Crown Tavern is our crown jewel. It’s our go-to spot. We had our wedding shower there and a lot of our big life events.

What celebrity would you like to see eating something you’ve baked?

I am obsessed with Dwayne ‘The Rock’ Johnson. It would be funny because he’s obviously very health-conscious, so I would see him eating a cupcake or something. It would be a wild moment.

What is your favorite thing on your menu?

Our Bismarcks at the shop are awesome. Just a long-john, a yeast doughnut with raspberry jam filling, whipped cream and powdered sugar.

What’s the biggest baking trend you see in New Hampshire right now?

It’s not a thing in particular, but in the wake of Covid everybody wants things in like single servings and smaller portions — individual serving sizes of any sort. Cookies and brownies and cupcakes — anything that you can get packaged on its own is really popular. There seems to be an attitude of, ‘Oh no; I don’t want my stuff touching anyone else’s stuff.’

What’s your favorite thing to cook at home?

My wife and I like to make a Sopa Toscana, like a take on the soup at Olive Garden. It’s a kale soup with a creamy base and potatoes and all the Italian spices — oregano, basil and everything.

You can really take these in any direction by changing what you stuff them with … Try it stuffed with peanut butter and topped with some sea salt or chopped pistachios.

Once you’ve settled on your definition of done, you can pop them in the fridge or the freezer. I really like them from the freezer. They are like a Riesen texture that way, only dairy-free. The chilled dates taste like caramel.

Punk rock Indian cuisine

Aatma Curry House offers your Saturday dinner

By John Fladd
jfladd@hippopress.com

According to Chef Keith Sarasin, opening a restaurant can feel a lot like a bad break-up.

For the past two and a half years Sarasin and his team have been running Aatma Curry House as a pop-up restaurant. For one or two nights they would cook and serve their food at specific events, but they didn’t have a permanent home. During that time, Sarasin was looking for a location for a brick-and-mortar Indian restaurant.

“We found three different locations over the course of those two and a half years,” he said, “and each time something would happen that was out of our control. And by the third time this happened, we were looking at a place in Kittery, and when it fell through, it was a lot like a heartbreak or a breakup in a relationship where you just go through these deep emotions of, ‘I’m so close!’ Ultimately I used that frustration and anger and angst to come up with the concept of Atma Curry House.”

Aatma represents an unusual restaurant concept. Customers place their orders throughout the week, then pick it up at a predetermined time each Saturday. One of the advantages of this system is that it gives Sarasin and his staff an opportunity to connect with customers individually.

“We get to have interaction with every single person and talk about our passion and feed them little extra things,” Sarasin said. “We love throwing surprises and handwritten notes in every single solitary order.”

That passion is reflected in Aatma’s very ambitious goal. “It’s punk rock,” Sarasin said. “It’s turned-up food; the flavors are there and super traditional. A lot of times the food that we eat in the West when it comes to Indian food is muted or toned down, not just from a spiciness standpoint but from a spice and flavor standpoint. We decided on Day 1 that Curry House was going to bring the best Indian comfort food that exists in the entire Northeast.”

Part of that mission involves giving customers food that they are familiar with, but at the same time trying to expand their understanding of what Indian cuisine can be.

“We have our staples,” Sarasin said. “For instance, we have our Aatma Butter Chicken, and our butter chicken is based off of the original premise of the dish in Moti Mahal in Delhi, but we add a couple of secret ingredients to it that makes it very New England.” (Moti Mahal is a respected chain of restaurants in India that originally introduced iconic Indian dishes to the West, butter chicken being one of them.) “So we have our staples like butter chicken, dal, things of that nature, but every week we add new menu items and change dishes out to encourage people to try things that are different beyond just what they’re used to.”

Another way the staff at Aatma challenges preconceptions of Indian dishes is by “putting a New England spin” on them. Sarasin used gulab jamun, an Indian dessert spiced with cardamom, rose water or saffron and served in a sugar syrup, as an example. “We have a classic gulab jamun that stays on the menu all the time and they’re made the exact same way, very traditional. Sugar syrup is added just like it typically is with a little bit of cardamom but then our spin on it is we actually add maple syrup to that syrup and it is absolutely mind-blowingly good how well it works.”

Sarasin said his vision for Aatma is to marry tradition with rebellion; it has been a tricky needle to thread. “That’s where I was at personally after feeling defeated, but also the spirit of India is based off of these things. When you think about Indians kicking out the British Raj, or the story of how tea was forced upon them and they created something beautiful out of it, you realize that this is a very Indian attitude. I hope this is an homage to that tradition.”

Aatma Curry House
75 Mont Vernon St., Milford
Aatma takes orders online Sunday through Thursday, for pickup between 1 and 3 p.m. on Saturday. Visit the website, aatmacurryhouse.com, to order and to find out what dishes are on the menu in a given week.

The Weekly Dish 24/11/28

News from the local food scene

Last bit of recipe: In the Nov. 21 issue of the Hippo, the last chunk of the recipe for “Paper Bag Apple Pie” was sliced off. The missing instructions read:

“Fasten with paper clips. Bake at 425°F for 1 hour. Split the bag to open.”

New salad source: A branch of the fast-casual restaurant chain Sweet Green has opened in the Market and Main shopping complex off River Road in Bedford. The menu focuses on fresh, light dishes like salads and protein bowls. Sweet Green is at 7 Market St, Suite 2, Bedford, 978-650-3965, sweetgreen.com, and is open seven days a week, 10 a.m. to 9 p.m.

New supermarket: A new Whole Foods Market will open in Nashua, Tuesday, Dec.10. The 44,600-square-foot store will be located at 272 DW Highway The store will open at 9 a.m. on opening day. Regular store hours will be 8 a.m. to 9 p.m. daily.

New coffee: Nashua-based company Rare Breed Coffee (2 Pittsburgh Ave., Nashua, 578-3338, rarebreedcoffee.com) has released a limited-time seasonal coffee called Sleigher. Rare Breed describes the coffee blend as “indulgent” with “notes of brown sugar, orange spice, and vanilla.” See rarebreedcoffee.com.

Rescue and recreation: Tickets are on sale now for the Winter Carnevale and $2,500 Holiday Shopping Spree Raffle to benefit the Salem Animal Rescue League (4 Sarl Drive, Salem, 893-3210, sarlnh.org). The SARL Winter Carnivale will be held at the Castleton Banquet and Conference Center (58 Enterprise Drive, Windham, 898-6300, castletonbcc.com) on Friday, Dec. 6, from 5:30 to 9:30 p.m. The event will feature artisan chocolate tasting by Loon Chocolate, food and drink, dancing, live and silent auctions and more. Tickets are $100 per person or $1,000 for a table of 10 and can be purchased through the SARL website.

Gingerbread houses: To Share Brewing (720 Union St., Manchester, 836-6947, tosharebrewing.com) will host a gingerbread house workshop Sunday, Dec.1, at 4 p.m. Build and decorate your own gingerbread house. The price is per house; sharing is recommended. Each house will have sugar windows and the base will include battery-powered lights. Tickets are $55 through oopsiartedagain.as.me.

Treasure Hunt 24/11/28

Hello, Donna,

Can you provide any information on this black plastic pin? I have provided a few photos to try to help. Thank you in advance.

Jenny

Dear Jenny,

First I want to say thank you for all the pictures. Multiple views help always.

Your pin is from the Victorian Era. Used for mourning times. It is a cameo style (which means the center woman is raised, not recessed into it. That would be considered an intaglio.)

Even though it feels like plastic, it’s most likely Gutta Percha. That is made from a sap from special trees. Very common in that era.

Your pin looks to be in great condition for the age. Remember being a mourning pin it was mainly used just for that purpose back then. It’s a nice piece of history, Jenny.

The value on one like yours would be in the $100 range. Thanks for sharing with us.

Donna Welch has spent more than 35 years in the antiques and collectibles field, appraising and instructing. Her new location is an Antique Art Studio located in Dunbarton, NH where she is still buying and selling. If you have questions about an antique or collectible send a clear photo and information to Donna at footwdw@aol.com, or call her at 391-6550.

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