Ryes to the occasion

Bread Makery now open in Salem

Andrey Bredstein found success in New Hampshire with his Russian baking business, Hidden Berry Cakes & Breads — he was perhaps best known for his rustic roadside trailer near the intersection of Routes 102 and 121 in Chester, where he lived until 2018. Now, after a short stint spent baking down in the Austin, Texas, area, Bredstein is back in the Granite State with an all new brick-and-mortar spot offering his own authentic Russian breads, tea cakes and pastries.

The Bread Makery, which opened last month in the nearby town of Salem, features all of the same menu items Bredstein has perfected over his years as a baker, from multiple types of freshly baked rye breads to traditional Russian baked goods like rum balls and wizard cakes. Breads are made fresh daily, and Bredstein even uses old Soviet-era standardized recipes. His bread baking journey began in 2002, when he moved to the United States from Moscow and found himself looking for a quality product that reminded him of home. Living in Texas at the time, when he couldn’t find a good loaf of bread, he began experimenting in his own kitchen.

“We started looking for options in baking ourselves. I don’t have any formal training as a baker. … I read books, I watched videos … [but] mostly I relied on my memory of taste,” Bredstein said. “I started making my own steps, and finally I was able to get a loaf that I like. Then our neighbors started asking, you know, ‘Can you bake me a loaf or two?’ And so we did that.”

Bredstein’s product lineup includes a white sandwich loaf, as well as three types of rye breads — a traditional Russian rye, a Jewish rye and a darker “special rye” made with rye malt called Borodinsky — that are unique for containing rye flour and using sourdough starters.

“The white bread we make early. I come in here at 6 [a.m.], so [by] 11-ish, we have a fresh white bread ready,” Bredstein said. “A rye bread we make later in the day, closer to the evening. … Until it’s cooled down inside, it’s not considered ready. So normally it’s ready at 11 at night and then we sell it the next morning. Its shelf life is long — it’s four or five days.”

In addition to his breads, Bredstein offers a selection of traditional Russian sweets regularly stocked in a pastry case. Among them is a wizard cake, a white cake with a custard filling and a chocolate glaze he equated to a Boston cream pie — it’s sold either by the slice or as a whole. You can also try rum balls, or bite-sized cakes that are mixed with cream, coated with cocoa butter and hand-shaped into the shape of a small potato. Tea cakes, the first product that Bredstein offered when he originally launched his business, are also regularly available at the Bread Makery. They feature dried fruit — traditionally raisins, although Bredstein admits he likes to fill his with dried cranberries — and are commonly enjoyed with a cup of hot tea.

A small retail area of the shop offers various items, like rye crisps — Bredstein slices down extra loaves of his Russian rye bread and slowly bakes them at a low temperature. They result in a crunchy snack that he said pairs well with beer or your favorite dipping sauce. Bredstein also sells three-pound bags of rye flour; imported bottles of kvass, a fermented drink popular in Russia and Ukraine; and cans of smoked sprats, small fish he said are similar to sardines.

“It’s made in the Baltic area, so Latvia, Lithuania [and] Estonia,” Bredstein said. “It’s [in] an oil, so when you put it on bread, it will soak a little bit in and it becomes a nice sandwich.”

In many ways, Bredstein is simply picking up where he left off a few years ago in Chester. In fact, he’s already seen customers walk through the door who ordered from him during his days on the trailer. Others are being introduced to his breads for the first time. But no matter who comes in to visit, Bredstein said he’s happy to back baking in the Granite State.

“Tastes are very different. When we lived in Chester, I would say maybe 80 percent of what we made was bread,” he said. “In Texas, nobody wanted bread … but they liked our pastries very much. Personally I’m most interested in making bread, especially rye bread.”

Bread Makery
Where: 115B Main St., Salem
Hours: Tuesday, noon to 6 p.m., and Wednesday through Saturday, 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. Closed on Sundays and Mondays.
More info: Visit breadmakery.com, find them on Facebook or call 912-7677

Featured photo: Borodinsky, or Russian “special rye” bread (right). Photo courtesy of Bread Makery in Salem.

The Weekly Dish 22/09/01

News from the local food scene

Get your Greek feast: Join Holy Trinity Greek Orthodox Church (68 N. State St., Concord) for its next boxed Greek dinner to go, a drive-thru takeout event, on Sunday, Sept. 11, from noon to 1 p.m. Now through Wednesday, Sept. 7, orders are being accepted for boxed meals featuring dinners of Greek pork roast, spinach pita, roasted potatoes, carrots and a roll for $20 per person. The event is drive-thru and takeout only — email [email protected] or call 953-3051 to place your order. The church is also planning similar takeout and pickup meals over the next few months, including meatballs with rice on Oct. 9, stuffed peppers on Nov. 3 and cheese pitas with a Greek vegetable medley on Dec. 11. Visit holytrinitynh.org.

Fresh from the market: The third and final scheduled Mums Pop Up Market, a small pop-up farmers market presented by Manchester Grows in partnership with other local nonprofits, is happening on Thursday, Sept. 8, from 4 to 7 p.m. Local vendors selling art, freshly grown produce and other items will be set up by the intersection of Union and Spruce streets in the Queen City. Similar markets were also held on Aug. 11 and Aug. 25. Email [email protected] for more details on vendors, or visit manchesternhgrows.org.

Celebrate with lobster: Makris Lobster & Steak House (354 Sheep Davis Road, Concord) is planning its first annual Lobster Palooza on Saturday, Sept. 3, from 1 to 10 p.m. The end-of-summer celebration will take place in the eatery’s backyard beach and tiki area, featuring a wide array of lobster and beer specials, along with live music, giveaways, a 50/50 raffle, and a Sam Adams Oktoberfest stein hoisting challenge at 7:30 p.m. Visit eatalobster.com or check out the Facebook event page for more details.

Hot sauce fest a success: More than 2,000 “fiery folks” attended the first annual New England Hot Sauce Fest at Smuttynose Brewery Co. in Hampton on July 30, which collectively raised nearly $10,000 for its two beneficiary organizations, according to a press release. The event featured more than 25 craft hot sauce companies from across New Hampshire and other New England states, along with several food trucks and craft and specialty vendors. Canadian celebrity competitive eater Mike Jack of Mike Jack Eats Heat even consumed 60 Carolina Reaper peppers (the world’s hottest pepper), beating his own personal record. “Our goals were to raise money for our local ocean-conservation beneficiaries, and to put New England on the map as an up and coming spicy region,” event organizer Gabe DiSaverio of The Spicy Shark said in a statement. “We are so thrilled to raise money for Blue Ocean Society and Seacoast Science Center, each receiving $4,417.” Plans are already underway for the festival to return for a second year, on July 29, 2023. “We plan on keeping the same formula that made Year 1 such a success, and we’ve got a bunch of new spicy surprises in the works as well!” DiSaverio said. Visit newenglandhotsaucefest.com.

On The Job – Kristen Walden

Dancer, choreographer and dance instructor

Kristen Walden is a dancer, choreographer and dance instructor at Ankara Rose World Dance studio in Wilton.

Explain your job and what it entails.

I create dance opportunities for grown-ups and teens … in a very niche area: cultural and world dance forms such as belly dance, Irish step, Scottish Highland dance, world fusion and other folkloric forms. … Prior to the shutdown I also was a professional dancer and choreographer.

How long have you had this job?

I’ve danced professionally and taught workshops since 2005. … Soon after that, I started subbing others’ classes occasionally and teaching private lessons. Ankara Rose World Dance came about in 2011 … [when] a former dance mentor lovingly nudged introverted me into taking over her weekly classes. I then formed a home base to teach regular weekly classes and host others’ workshops, while also traveling and performing weekends.

What led you to this career field and your current job?

I had a tough time in school. I remember my high school teachers having a meeting with me, and my dance team instructor pointing out how I had a talent for dance. At a time I felt so lost and unclear, that moment got my wheels turning on how I truly was happy when I danced and how dance was the only thing that drove me. … It wouldn’t be until a few years later, though, after finishing up high school by homeschooling and having the space to discover myself and my passions, that I would really know this is what I wanted and dive in to make it happen.

What kind of education or training did you need?

Experience and networking [are] needed unless one wants to teach in a studio that requires a degree. That wasn’t what I wanted; I wanted to work for myself. … I had done the Dance Masters of America Teaching Training intensive at SUNY Buffalo. … A lot of time training on my own as well, creating my own style and honing my craft.

What’s your typical at-work uniform or attire?

Yoga, workout or dance [attire] and a T-shirt. … Thankfully, not tights anymore. I hated those.

How has your job changed over the course of the pandemic?

The shutdown really killed my business, being in the arts. … I had to switch fields completely. I tried teaching online … but I hate that. There’s no real connection, which is what I love about teaching in person. … We started holding some outdoor classes in the warmer part of the year, just to keep things going … and we just started back up in the studio this past March.

What do you wish you’d known at the beginning of your career?

That I should trust myself and my gifts fully. … In the very early stages of my professional dance career … my fears and a limited mindset got to me and halted my potential.

What do you wish other people knew about your job?

That it’s actually a lot of work outside what you see on stage or in the studio. So many hours pushing our bodies to the limits takes its toll as a professional dancer … not to mention choreographing; negotiating contracts; working on class plans, workshops and music set-lists; fixing costumes and more.

What was the first job you ever had?

Working for my dad, who owned his own business, cleaning his office for him on weekends.

What’s the best piece of work-related advice you’ve ever received?

A dancer I highly looked up to once said to me, ‘Know you’re good.’ … I still don’t think I’m the best dancer by far … but passion, creativity and dedication is 100 percent more important than perfect technique.

Five favorites

Favorite book:
The Lord of the Rings and the Outlander series.
Favorite movie: The Lord of the Rings films by Peter Jackson
Favorite music: Anything from Viking music such as Wardruna, traditional Celtic, Middle Eastern music, folk, to rock classics, to some pop.
Favorite food: Avocados and guacamole
Favorite thing about NH: I love the outdoors.

Featured photo: Kristen Walden. Courtesy photo.

Treasure Hunt 22/09/01

Dear Donna,

Can you give me any information on the necklace/pin? It’s marked Jerusalem 900 on the back.

Thanks.

Betty

Dear Betty,

Your cross pendant brooch is called a Five Fold Cross. It was made in Jerusalem to represent five crosses, the main one in the center and one smaller one on each corner.

This design made up the coat of arms of the Kingdom of Jerusalem. They’ve been made since the 1280s. The 900 mark means it is almost all sterling. The stone in the center is purple glass that looks like amethyst but is not a real gemstone. Still the presentation of the piece looks substantial and beautiful.

Your piece, Betty, is in the $125 range and a nice piece of religious memorabilia. Thanks for sharing with us. I hope this was helpful.

Donna

Note: When you own an older piece of jewelry it’s better to leave it in the original condition that you found it in rather than polish it. The piece through age earned that finish!

Kiddie Pool 22/09/01

Family fun for the weekend

Movie night

• The final Movies in the Park from Merrimack’s Parks & Recreation takes place Saturday, Sept. 3, at dusk (about 7:30 p.m.) in Wasserman Park. The screening of Sing 2 (PG, 2021) is free for Merrimack residents and nonresidents, according to merrimackparksandrec.org.

Weekend at the museum

• At the Children’s Museum of New Hampshire (6 Washington St. in Dover; childrens-museum.org, 742-2002), Sunday, Sept. 4, is the last day the museum will be open before its annual maintenance period, according to the website. Until then, head to the museum for play windows of either 9 a.m. to noon (through Sept. 4) or 1 to 4 p.m. (through Saturday, Sept. 3). Buy admission for a specific time period in advance for $12.50 for adults and everyone over 12 months old and $10.50 for seniors age 65+. The museum will reopen on Friday, Sept. 16, with Toddlerfest, its annual week of activities and events geared toward the littles. See the schedule of events, including the Saturday, Sept. 17, performance by musician Steve Blunt, on the museum’s website.

• The McAuliffe-Shepard Discovery Center (2 Institute Drive in Concord; starhop.com, 271-7827) has been open daily during the summer and is open from 10:30 a.m. to 4 p.m. through Sunday, Sept. 4. Reserve admission for an arrival time (between 10:30 a.m. and 12:30 p.m. or 12:30 p.m. and 4 p.m.); admission costs $12 for adults, $11 for students and seniors and $9 for kids ages 3 to 12; kids up to age 2 get in free. Planetarium shows, which take place hourly from 11 a.m. through 3 p.m., cost an additional $5 per person. After Labor Day, regular admission is available Friday through Sunday. And save the date for AerospaceFest on Saturday, Sept. 10, from 10:30 a.m. to 4 p.m. This outdoor event is free and features hands-on science activities, live music from Mr. Aaron and more.

• The SEE Science Center (200 Bedford St. in Manchester; see-sciencecenter.org, 669-0400) is also open daily, 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. (last admission at 3 p.m.) on weekdays and 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. on weekends, through Monday, Sept. 5. The center will close for annual renovations Tuesday, Sept. 6, through Friday, Sept. 16. Admission costs $10 for ages 3 and up. The center’s website recommends reserving a spot.

• Another museum open this weekend is the Aviation Museum of New Hampshire (27 Navigator Road in Londonderry; nhahs.org, 669-4820), whose hours are Friday and Saturday, 10 a.m. to 4 p.m., and Sunday, 1 to 4 p.m. Admission costs $10 for age 13 and over, and $5 for 65+, veterans and active military and kids ages 6 to 12. Kids ages 5 and under get in free and there is a family maximum of $30, according to the website.

• The Currier Museum of Art (150 Ash St. in Manchester; currier.org, 669-6144) will be open Monday, Sept. 5, from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. — though normally closed Mondays, the museum is open on some holiday Mondays. Admission costs $15 for adults, $13 for 65+, $10 for students and $5 for ages 13 to 17; children under 13 get in for free. Or stroll the galleries for free on Thursday from 5 to 8 p.m. as part of Art After Work (the weekly series offering free admission, live music and exhibit tours).

Is it time to include ferns in your garden?

Sensitive fern, interrupted fern, ostrich fern — take your pick

Many gardeners who focus on flowers and flowering shrubs are missing out on a beautiful and easy addition to their landscape: ferns. A few ferns are a bit aggressive and can elbow their way into flower beds uninvited, but most are polite and offer different textures and colors of foliage with little work.

One of my favorite ferns is the ostrich fern (Matteuccia struthiopteris). This is a big fern, with fronds up to 5 feet tall. Each fern tapers at both ends, and they arrange themselves like the feathers of a badminton birdie. Its most distinguishing characteristic is a groove like you see in a stalk of celery, up the middle of each frond on the topside. It also produces fronds that turn brown and produce the spores.

In the wild, the ostrich fern prefers moist, shady places, but it will grow almost anywhere that is not bone dry or in full sun. It will tolerate some sun and ordinary garden soil, but rich, moist soil is where it thrives. Ostrich fern will spread by rhizomes, adding about a square foot of territory to each plant per year. They also produce spores that can fly in the wind to expand their territory.

Although you can buy ostrich ferns, you may be able to transplant some from your own property, moving them in from the woods or field to a garden bed. I have successfully transplanted ostrich ferns using a long, narrow shovel called a drain spade or transplant shovel. I push the spade into the soil on a 45-degree angle to cut roots and loosen the soil in four places around it, then push down on the spade to pop the plant, roots and all, from the ground. Best to do on a cool day after a rain, if we ever see one!

Another great fern is the maidenhair fern (Adiantum pedatum). In the spring it comes up on what look like black wires, then produces almost horizontal fronds that are fan-shaped. In the wild it indicates good rich soil. Books say it does well in moist, shady soil, but I’ve had it for more than 20 years in dry shade. I think once established it is fine in dry shade, but I’d water it for the first year if in dry shade, or in drought times.

Maidenhair fern is commonly sold in nurseries. I have also grown it in a pot on our north-facing deck. In our garden, a plant (or three?) has created a clump that is 8 feet by 4 feet in 20 years, so it’s not a fast spreader.

Christmas fern (Polystichum acrostichoides): Unlike nearly all others, this fern stays green all winter and has very dark green leaves. It grows in free-form clusters and has simple leaves. The leaflets have a little bump (ear) near the base of each frond and are 1 to 3 feet long. In past times, it was commonly used by florists as a green to add to flower arrangements in winter, though that practice is no longer common as whole colonies were used up.

Sensitive fern (Onoclea sensibilis): This fern has light green leaves that are quite wide. Leaflet pairs are opposite each other (like a bow tie). Top-most leaflets are smooth; others have wavy edges. It is very frost-sensitive, hence the name. It often grows in big colonies, either in sun or shade. Can be a pest in the garden as it spreads by root. It is the only fern that I always pull out if it shows up in my garden as it spreads fast.

Interrupted fern (Osmunda claytoniana): This is a big fern with fronds up to 5 feet long in a vase-like arrangement. It will grow in wet or dry shade. When spores are produced, they interrupt the arrangement of leaflets with smaller spore-producing sections that are not like the other leaflets. But not all plants will have an interrupted section, so look at a colony to find some that do to confirm the I.D. The little leaflets that produce spores get dry and turn brown in mid-summer.

Another fern I like is the hay-scented fern (Dennstaedtia punctilobula). If you have crushed this fern and sniffed it, it smells like fresh-cut hay. It is finely cut and stays just 1 to 3 feet tall. It is one of the few that will grow in a hot, sunny spot such as a west-facing, sandy hillside, though it does grow in shade. It spreads quickly and will fill in an area, making a large colony. It will out-compete weeds and grasses in sunny locations.

Are you interested in learning about ferns? Many guides use lots of technical language that only fern scientists understand. One exception is Identifying Ferns the Easy Way: A Pocket Guide to Common Ferns of the Northeast by Lynn Levine. There are just 28 common ferns in the book, and there are silhouettes of each at the beginning of the book. The silhouettes are divided into six groups based on how the leaves are “cut.” So a quick look will identify most ferns, and the straightforward descriptions quickly confirm which fern you are looking at.

Observe where ferns grow in your woodlands, and try digging up some to put in a shady garden in your cultivated areas. Stop discriminating against ferns and give some a try!

Featured photo: Sensitive Fern. Photo by Henry Homeyer.

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