Portobellos with wine poached lobster

This week’s dish is truly one for a celebration. Not only does it incorporate lobster, but this recipe also utilizes wine, Parmesan cheese and heavy cream. While these are indulgent stuffed mushrooms, it is a memorable dish, well worth the splurge when grocery shopping.

This is a luxurious dish, but it is quite simple to make. In 30 minutes you will have transformed all the ingredients into a lavish dish. I noted that this recipe serves four, which works when offering it as an appetizer. However, it also would work well as an entrée for two.

This recipe’s ingredients do require a bit of a breakdown. I used lobster tails to make this dish, as it is a faster way to get to the meat. If you want to use a whole lobster, you probably need one that is about two pounds. Next is the wine. While I use the general term “white wine,” I’d suggest using one that is not aromatic, such as an unoaked chardonnay or a pinot grigio. Finally, the recipe calls for two tablespoons of heavy cream. You may think that you can use whatever milk you have on hand. I would recommend buying the heavy cream. It lends to the unctuous nature of the dish.

This is not an everyday sort of dish. Set this recipe aside for a special occasion. It definitely will make the day more memorable.

Portobellos with wine poached lobster
Serves 4

4 portobello mushrooms
¾ cup white wine
2 cups uncooked lobster meat*
⅓ cup panko
¼ cup + 2 Tablespoons shredded Parmesan
2 Tablespoons heavy cream

Preheat oven to 325 degrees.
Remove stems from portobellos; chop and set aside.
Remove the gills from the portobellos, using a spoon; discard.
In a small saucepan, bring wine to a boil.
Chop lobster into bite-sized pieces.
Add lobster meat to wine, reduce heat, and simmer for 5 minutes.
Remove saucepan from heat.
Stir in panko, ¼ cup Parmesan and chopped mushroom stems until fully combined.
Add heavy cream and mix well.
Spoon stuffing into the mushroom caps and sprinkle with remaining 2 tablespoons of Parmesan.
Place on a rimmed baking sheet lined with aluminum foil and sprayed with nonstick spray.
Bake for 15 minutes or until lightly browned.

*I used 2 lobster tails, which equaled that amount.

Featured Photo: Broccoli, apple and bacon salad. Photo by Michele Pesula Kuegler.

In the kitchen with Dan Lloyd

Dan Lloyd of Hillsborough is the owner and founder of the Big Dog Sauce Co. (bigdogsauce.com, and on Facebook and TikTok), a producer of all-natural barbecue sauces that launched earlier this spring. Originally from the Denver area, Lloyd moved east about five years ago. The company, which currently offers three bottled products and has a fourth on the way, stemmed from Lloyd’s longtime interest in barbecuing and making his own sauces at home. Big Dog Sauce Co.’s lineup includes a maple barbecue sauce, a mango habanero barbecue sauce, and a green chile barbecue sauce made with Anaheim chile peppers — the latter, Lloyd said, was inspired by his desire to bring an authentic taste of the Southwest to New England. A blackberry ginger barbecue sauce is also in the works, likely to be bottled and available in the coming weeks. Find 12-ounce bottles of Big Dog Sauce in multiple stores and farm stands across the state, including at the Osborne’s Agway locations in Hooksett (16 Cinemagic Way) and Concord (258 Sheep Davis Road), as well as at Lull Farm in Milford (615 Route 13), Goffstown Ace Hardware (5 Depot Road, Goffstown) and several others.

What is your must-have kitchen item?

I have to have an emulsion blender. It’s absolutely crucial for me to make sure that my sauces are blended properly.

What would you have for your last meal?

I would have to go with a really good Coney Island hot dog, with chili, onions and mustard.

What is your favorite local restaurant?

Locally, I think it would be Taco Beyondo [in Hillsborough], hands down. I think [owner and chef] Adam [Mosher] does a great job over there. … I love the stuffed chimichanga, extra crispy, with a queso sauce that they put over the top of it.

What celebrity would you like to see trying one of your sauces?

Guy Fieri [is] the person I would really like to have try my sauces. … He would be very down to earth and humble, and I think my sauce would be well-received.

What is your favorite sauce that you offer?

I like our mango habanero. It’s hands down our No. 1 seller. You have the sweetness of the mango, then all of a sudden you get a little bit of the heat and you get the flavor of the habanero. It’s not spicy, but it’s just enough to give you that zing that you need, and then as soon as it comes it goes away and you get more sweetness on the back of your palate. … I love to marinate it in some chicken and then cook it on the grill.

What is the biggest food trend in New Hampshire right now?

Popping up all over is ghost kitchens. They are a great way for people to introduce their product without having the overhead. … The other thing is it allows businesses that they rent from to be able to generate revenue.

What is your favorite thing to cook at home?

I love a good rack of ribs.

Pork belly burnt ends
From the kitchen of Dan Lloyd of Big Dog Sauce Co.

1 whole pork belly (about 8 to 10 pounds)
1 stick cold butter
2 cups of your favorite seasoning
1 bottle Big Dog Sauce Co. mango habanero sauce

Preheat your smoker to 275 degrees. Slice the pork belly into 1½-inch cubes and place into a large gallon zip-lock bag. Pour your seasoning into the bag and coat the pork belly liberally. Take pork belly and place on a wire rack about a half-inch apart, then place inside the smoker for three hours. Remove from the smoker and place all of the pork belly pieces in a deep aluminum pan. Take one stick of cold butter and cut into slices. Place inside the pork belly and then take the bottle of mango habanero sauce and a sprinkle of brown sugar over the top, and mix it together in the pan. Cover the pan with aluminum foil and cook for an additional hour and a half.

Featured photo: Dan Lloyd of the Big Dog Sauce Co. in Hillsborough. Courtesy photo.

Popping the cork

LaBelle Winery unveils new sparkling wine barn in Derry

Last year was quite a busy one for LaBelle Winery — in 2021 alone, the company introduced a farm-to-table restaurant, a retail market, performance and event spaces and even a golf course, all on a 45-acre property on Route 111 in Derry acquired the previous December. The expansions have continued in the form of an on-site sparkling wine tasting barn and vineyard wedding ceremony space, brand new additions that recently began welcoming visitors. Following a June 8 ribbon cutting with the Greater Derry Londonderry Chamber of Commerce, a grand opening celebration is planned for Wednesday, June 22, and will include a cocktail reception, hors d’oeuvres, tours of the new property, an interactive sparkling wine display and more.

Construction on the 3,448-square-foot barn broke ground last October. A short walking path from the northeast end of the parking lot leads to the front doors of the tasting room.

Amy LaBelle, who founded LaBelle Winery in 2005, said building the barn was always part of the plan since she and her husband, Cesar Arboleda, took over the Derry property. Its chief purpose will be a production facility for new sparkling wine varieties created via Méthode Champenoise, a classic French technique only a few New England area wineries are known for.

“We have all these interesting businesses now under the LaBelle umbrella, but we can’t ever forget that the core of LaBelle is wine,” LaBelle said. “Real French-style Champagne is something that I’ve always wanted to make but just didn’t have enough production space for. … So we’ll be able to do that, and I’m really excited to use New England grapes for that process.”

The wines

Plans are currently underway to soon begin producing red, white and rosé sparkling wines out of the new barn. The building features a retail area and tasting room in the front and a production space in the back, plus a covered outdoor patio and an open-air terrace overlooking the vineyard.

Méthode Champenoise sparkling wines are characterized by a second fermentation inside the bottle during the production process. Bottles are intentionally filled with a lower percent ABV wine before yeast is added, as well as a dosage, or a new small amount of wine and sugar, for the yeast to eat. The bottle is then secured with a crown cap for the yeast to go to work.

“It starts breaking down the sugars, creating that extra one or two percent alcohol from what you’ve put in, and creating carbon dioxide as a byproduct,” LaBelle said. “So that’s how that wine gets bubbly. It’s created in the bottle that you’ll eventually drink from. … It also adds these beautiful bread-y notes, which is one reason why I love this method.”

The yeast eventually causes a residual substance called lees to form at the bottom of the bottle. After the second fermentation, LaBelle said, the next step of Méthode Champenoise involves removing the lees through a gradual process known as riddling.

“There are A-frame riddling racks and we place the neck of the bottle into them so that they’re at an angle … and then we turn those bottles every week, maybe just like an eighth of a turn, and that causes the lees to eventually make its way all into the neck,” she said. “That takes a long time, and I never had the space for all these racks before now. I could’ve put them out, but I would’ve had to move them too many times, and that would’ve disturbed the whole process.”

When the lees reaches the bottleneck, it’s flash frozen with nitrogen so it can be removed.

“When the plug goes out, [the bottle] gets a little low, so we fill it back up, pop in the cork and we’re off to the races,” LaBelle said.

LaBelle’s new sparkling wines created using this method will join its dozens of other wines and handcrafted artisan products available for sale out of the barn’s retail area, which include everything from jams, jellies and infused syrups to cooking oils, seasonings and more.

The vineyard

At about 3 acres, LaBelle’s newly planted vineyard in Derry is roughly the same size as its Amherst predecessor. It spans across a former golf course driving range adjacent to the wine barn, with a direct path from there to a central wedding ceremony space among the vines.

“In the middle of the vineyard, we’ve created an arbor built largely out of wine barrel materials,” LaBelle said. “So the idea is that if you want to get married in the vineyard, that space is available to you, and then you would recess up the path to the terrace, which fits 200 people for your cocktail hour. … Then you can go over to our ballroom for your dinner.”

Three grape varieties that have been planted in the vineyard — known as itasca, petit pear and cayuga — are all cold-hardy varieties suitable to withstand the cold winter climate. It will take about two years for the new vines to produce fruit that can be used for winemaking, LaBelle said, and until then the winery is expected to use grapes grown by local farmers.

“We’ll also be planting at the other side of the barn … so when you stand in the tasting room, you’ll literally be surrounded by vineyards, and you won’t be able to see the outside world,” she said. “We really wanted to give people that sense of being transported to wine country.”

The celebration

If you missed last week’s ribbon cutting ceremony for the wine barn, a ticketed grand opening celebration on June 22 will feature a uniquely intimate opportunity to experience the new space.

Attendees will get a chance to tour the property and learn more about the Méthode Champenoise process of making sparkling wine, as well as enjoy hors d’oeuvres and hear future plans for the barn. All ticket holders will also receive a complimentary signed copy of With a Twist, LaBelle’s own cocktail recipe book. The evening will even feature an interactive sparkling wine display.

“We have a performer coming who has a Champagne dress, so you’ll be served Champagne glasses from her dress, which is a whole thing,” LaBelle said. “It will be a lot of fun.”

LaBelle Winery Derry sparkling wine barn
A grand opening celebration is happening on Wednesday, June 22, from 5 to 6:30 p.m. Tickets are $45 per person and can be purchased online.

Where: 14 Route 111, Derry
Hours: Wednesday through Sunday, noon to 5 p.m. (the barn stays open an hour later on Thursdays, until 6 p.m., during LaBelle Winery’s concert nights)
Cost: Tastings are six for $14 or 10 for $20
More info: Visit labellewinery.com, find them on Facebook and Instagram or call 672-9898

Featured photo: Sparkling wines are placed on riddling racks during the production process to remove excess yeast. Photo by Matt Ingersoll.

The Weekly Dish 22/06/16

News from the local food scene

Greek for a day: Join St. Nicholas Greek Orthodox Church (1160 Bridge St., Manchester) for the return of its annual lamb barbecue and food festival on Saturday, June 18 — the deadline to pre-order online may have passed, but walk-ups will still be welcome beginning at noon and while supplies last. As with previous barbecues, the lamb is prepared using a recipe from the late George Moulis, one of the co-founders of the church. It will be available as a dinner with rice and a Greek salad, while other items will include marinated Greek chicken, Greek-style meatballs, pastitsio (Greek lasagna with a bechamel sauce), dolmathes (stuffed grape leaves) and spanakopita (spinach pie). For sweeter indulgences, there will be baklava, as well as koulourakia (butter cookies) and kourambiethes (powdered sugar cookies). Admission and parking is free and all foods are priced per item. Visit stnicholasgreekchurch.com.

Strawberry fever: J&F Farms (124 Chester Road, Derry) will hold a strawberry festival on Saturday, June 18, from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m., featuring pick-your-own strawberries, free samples, a petting farm, food trucks, live music and more. Farm-fresh strawberries over vanilla ice cream will be available from noon to as long as they last. Parking is $10 per car. Visit jandffarmsnh.com. More local strawberry festivals are also being planned in the coming weeks, including the Hollis Strawberry Festival, returning on Sunday, June 26, from 2 to 4 p.m.

Outdoor barbecueing: Farm-a-Q: A Juneteenth Celebration returns to Tuckaway Farm (36 Captain Smith Emerson Road, Lee) on Sunday, June 19, from noon to 5 p.m. The event is a collaboration celebration with the Portsmouth Black Heritage Trail, Indonesian Community Connect, the Cowasuck Band of the Penacook Abenaki People and other local community groups, and features foraging walks, craft brews, barbecue options and more. The cost is $35 per person, $25 for students and seniors and free for kids under 5. Find Tuckaway Farm on Facebook @tuckawayfarmnh.

Tapas and wines: A new eatery now open in Salem features a wide array of wines and locally sourced tapas, along with lounge seating, live music and comedy shows. Luna Bistro, which opened June 10 in the Breckenridge Plaza on North Broadway, is the brainchild of owner Kori Doherty, whose goal is to create a space with a relaxing vibe with good drinks and quality shareable plates. “It’s … more of a night-out type of experience as opposed to just somewhere you would go to eat and then leave,” Doherty told the Hippo earlier this year. “I really want it to be a place where you can have a good glass of wine or a beer and a bunch of really good appetizers, maybe watch a show or listen to a band, and just not feel rushed.” The food menu features everything from meat and seafood options to dips, spreads and flatbreads, and there is also an extensive wine list and craft beer selection. Visit luna-bistro.com.

Achieving whirled peas

In her Little House books Laura Ingalls Wilder made a big deal out of the changing of the seasons. Fall was an obvious one with all the emphasis on the harvest, etc., but springtime was also a really big deal for her.

In one of the books — I don’t specifically remember which one — she goes into a four- or five-page reverie about her mother making the first salad of the year. She describes the lettuce that she grew, and how her ma would make a dressing out of bacon drippings and vinegar.

“Oh, Ma!” the barefoot kids would cry, “Salad!”

“Hooray! Salad!”

“By gum, Caroline,” her Pa would say, “You beat everyone else all hollow for making salad!”

And Ma would blush, and admit that while it wasn’t perfect, it was, in fact, a pretty good salad.”

And I, as a child of the ’70s, would stop reading briefly, and shout at the book.

“Seriously, people! It’s a salad! Get over it!”

What I didn’t or couldn’t realize at the time was that this frontier family had just come off a winter of living on potatoes, salt pork and hardtack, and now even the potatoes were gone. They all had early-stage rickets and scurvy. Fresh, leafy greens must have hit their systems like a vitamin A speedball.

Now, while we haven’t spent the winter locked up in a one-room shanty on the prairie, we are coming off a long takeout and frozen dinner jag. Many of us have spent the past week or two standing in our gardens, hands on hips, staring down at the seedlings and going, “WELL?!”

The big stuff — the cucumbers, tomatoes, and corn — is still a long way off, but we are starting to get a few tiny things, vegetable flirtations, if you will, from our gardens.

Springtime Cocktail #1

Peas and mint are a classic combination. My question was a matter of ratios — how much mint to how many peas?

I looked through many, many recipes and found very little agreement. But Martha Stewart advised 10 ounces of peas to 1/3 cup of mint leaves, and if there is anyone I would put blind trust in on this matter, it would be Martha.

The great thing about this recipe is that aside from washing the peas and mint, you don’t have to pluck, chop or process them in any fussy way.

Preparing the gin:

  • 1/3 cup (8 grams) fresh mint — Don’t worry about plucking the leaves. The stems will work well here, too.
  • 10 ounces fresh sugar snap peas or snow peas in their pods
  • 10 ounces (285 grams) medium-quality gin — I used Gordon’s

Measure all three ingredients into a blender — a kitchen scale is excellent for this.

Blend thoroughly for a minute or so.

Leave the mixture to steep for an hour.

Strain with a fine-meshed kitchen strainer.

Your yield will be about a cup (8 ounces) of Bright Green Gin — enough for four cocktails.

The cocktail itself:

  • 2 ounces Bright Green Gin
  • 1 ounce fresh squeezed lemon juice
  • ¾ ounce amaretto

Combine all ingredients with ice in a cocktail shaker.

Shake.

Strain into a chilled coupe glass.

This is what I call a classic Utility Cocktail recipe — two parts alcohol, one part citrus juice, ¾ part syrup or liqueur.

Amaretto has a reputation of being a bully and taking over any drink it’s a part of. When used judiciously, it is an excellent team player. Peas go extremely well with mint – that’s a given. They also go with lemon and with almonds. All these ingredients play extremely well together.

The first thing you notice, of course, is the color, a bright vibrant green that even the amaretto won’t dull. The pea flavor is distinct but not overly assertive. The acid of the lemon juice brightens everything up.

It is startlingly delicious.

And holds off scurvy. There’s no sense in taking chances.

(One observation: The Bright Green Gin has a short shelf life. It will start losing its vibrant color and flavor within a couple of hours, so it is best to drink it right away. This is a perfect before-dinner cocktail to share with friends, or for two of you to have two apiece.)

Featured photo. Springtime Cocktail. Photo by John Fladd.

Broccoli, apple and bacon salad

I’m going to start with a fact about this recipe: It needs about two and a half hours to be prepared. However, and this is a big however, only about 20 of those minutes are active cooking time. The remaining two hours are for the salad to become nice and cold. In fact, you could start this salad in the morning, let it hang out in the refrigerator all day, and finish it shortly before you’re ready to serve it.
You can think of this salad as a dish that has something for everyone. For your healthy eaters, it is filled with broccoli and has an incredibly healthy dressing. If you are cooking for people who like tartness, there are the Granny Smith apples. For a hot summer’s day, this salad is served ice cold. Plus, it’s topped with bacon, which tends to be a popular ingredient for many people.

Besides being a crowd-pleaser and quite easy to make, it also is a low-maintenance dish as far as ingredients go. There are no hard-to-find items. For the lemon juice, use bottled or fresh. If you can’t find a Granny Smith apple, feel free to pick a different variety. Just gather your ingredients, get the salad started and in the refrigerator, and you have a delicious side salad ready in a couple hours.

Broccoli, apple, and bacon salad
Serves 4

4½ cups broccoli florets
2 stalks celery
1 Granny Smith apple
¾ cup plain Greek yogurt
2 Tablespoons lemon juice
2 teaspoons sugar
4 strips bacon

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil.
Add broccoli florets, and boil for 3 minutes.
Transfer to a colander, rinsing with cold water to stop cooking; drain well.
Chop celery into ½-inch pieces.
Core apple, and chop into ½-inch cubes with skin on.
Cut broccoli into bite-sized pieces.
Combine broccoli, celery and apple in a large bowl.
In a small bowl whisk together yogurt, lemon juice and sugar.
Pour dressing on salad, and toss well.
Refrigerate for 2 hours.
Cook bacon until crispy, using your preferred method.
Drain bacon on paper towels, and chop into a small dice.
Just before serving, top salad with diced bacon pieces.

Featured Photo: Broccoli, apple and bacon salad. Photo by Michele Pesula Kuegler.

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