The Last Ranger, by Peter Heller

The Last Ranger, by Peter Heller (Knopf, 304 pages)

Yellowstone National Park is having a moment. An hour, really.

The first national park in the U.S., it was established in 1872 and straddles Wyoming, Montana and Idaho. It is one of the nation’s most popular tourist destinations and a plot device in the popular Paramount TV series. Its popularity derives not just from its natural beauty, but also from its wildlife, which includes bison, bears and wolves — the latter of which were reintroduced into the park nearly 20 years after they’d disappeared from the region a century earlier.

Human interference in the lives of wolves was the topic of Erica Berry’s memoir Wolfish (Flatiron), published earlier this year. Now Peter Heller addresses the topic in The Last Ranger, the latest in his growing compendium of novels that involve the outdoors, an interest he developed while growing up in Vermont and matriculating at Dartmouth.

Ren Hopper is a National Park Service ranger stationed at Yellowstone. It is a career best suited for solitary sorts, as much of the human interaction is observation, save encounters with the dumb or malevolent tourists, of which Ren seems to encounter more than his share. The dumb ones endanger themselves; the malevolent ones endanger the animals, by poaching. (Grizzly bears most often make the news when they kill someone, but more often it seems that humans try to kill them; their parts, especially the gallbladder, are components in traditional Chinese medicine.)

The story of how Ren, a fan of Russian fiction and specialty coffee drinks, came to live in a rangers’ cabin deep in the woods unfolds slowly. He learned to fish and love the outdoors under the tutelage of his mother, who drank to excess and left the family suddenly for murky reasons. He was married once, to a woman he deeply loved, but she died; why and how is initially unclear.

Ren’s best friend, besides trout, is a biologist named Hilly who studies wolves. She also lives in Yellowstone, where she is so entrenched with the packs that they know her scent and pay her little attention, as they live out their lives.

One of the more fascinating revelations of The Last Ranger is how keenly aware animals are of a human presence — some can smell us from nearly 2 miles away, and the more intelligent seem to sometimes leave their young within sight of wildlife-seeking tourists, knowing that they will be safe from predators for a short time. It’s like they’re getting some “me-time” with human babysitters, Heller writes. The novel is deeply researched, and some passages stumble into the realm of nonfiction when it comes to describing Yellowstone and its denizens.

But every good story needs a villain, and wolves are not it. The first antagonist is a surly local named Les Ingraham, whom Ren meets while fishing on his day off. To Ren, Ingraham is clearly breaking the law by pursuing a young bear with a dog. But he can’t do anything about it; he is out of uniform, and Ingraham, who is smart, has a story: his dog had been on leash but got away from him, and he was simply trying to reclaim his wayward dog.

Ren doesn’t believe him; Ingraham, like many locals, appears resentful that Yellowstone even exists and that the federal government enforces protection to animals and to the land. In particular, he seems to nurse a grudge for Hilly. And so when Hilly later gets caught in a leg trap near one of her observation points and nearly dies, Ingraham is a natural suspect, especially since he was arrested for assault 17 years earlier.

But as Ren researches Ingraham’s past, he learns that this seemingly malevolent poacher was a high school and college football star celebrated for an act of selfless heroism before he broke his back during a game. Rather than being a black-and-white suspect, Ingraham is now a puzzle to be figured out. At the same time, he learns about the existence of a group of wealthy ranchers called the Pathfinders, who had sued the federal government for stripping them of what they claim were historical rights to hunting and allowing their animals to graze on what was now park land.

Are the Pathfinders also more complicated than they seem, like Ingraham, or were they responsible for not only the trap that nearly killed Hilly and other seemingly taunting traps set around the park?

From the start, Heller’s sympathies clearly favor animals over people; like Hilly, who once made a vow to defend creatures who have no voice in the human world, he sees the worst things humans do as more reprehensible than the worst things animals do.

As Hilly says at one point, “If the earth were a meritocracy and we were graded on how much each species contributed to the well-being of the whole, we’d be [expletive]. God will blow the whistle at all the people and yell, Everybody out of the pool! It’s why Paul Watson, the Sea Shepherd captain, once said that the life of a worm is worth more than the life of a man. Sounds nuts, but it’s something to think about.”

As a writer, Heller has copious gifts of description. At one point, he describes the sounds of a wolf like this: “Two barks testing the night. Almost like a tuning, the confirming plucks of a string. And then a rising resonant howl that froze the stars in place, and dropped and hollowed like a woodwind, and then crescendoed again.”

He gives a character the habit of pinching the brim of his baseball cap as if to ward off bad luck. “It was like a rosary he wore on his head,” he writes.

But Heller’s novels are reliably gripping because they thrum quietly with tension, while slowly revealing the essence of characters who will stay with you for years. The Last Ranger, while not as good as Heller’s 2012 debut novel The Dog Stars — it’s a bit more predictable in places — is an excellent companion for the dog days of summer, especially for anyone who is more comfortable outside than in. A

Album Reviews 23/07/27

EbE404, Dark Ice Days (Give/Take Records)

It’s not that I’ve been avoiding the goth/industrial promo albums that have been coming in for many months from the Give/Take label; to be honest, the name of the PR company that services the imprint’s stuff is very similar to one of the nyms that a local troll uses when he emails literal gigabytes of punk cartoons to author Matt Taibbi and me, so most of it gets deleted out of hand. As far as the music on this album goes, it’s pretty much a stompy, wordless industrial DJ trip, the first two songs (“Open Water” and “Alchymicus”) sounding almost identical, which I truly hope wasn’t done on purpose; they’re of a Combichrist/darkwave sort, lots of sustained laser bursts, random samples and whatnot, not my cup of tea really but nothing that would keep the latex crowd off the dance floor, I suppose. Things get more interesting with “Bouncing,” in which the artiste(s) dabble in Greater Wrong Of The Right-era Skinny Puppy glitch and bleep-bloop. It’s fine for what it is. B

Styx, Crash Of The Crown (Alpha Dog 2T/UMe Records)

Owing to age and such, midcentury-era arena bands are dropping like flies, or at best, touring around with only one original band member, as is the case with Foghat, which is down to the drummer. Styx, though, comes off as being as spry as Greta Van Fleet, pound for pound; now that they’re pretty much a self-contained unit, with their own record label (and, assuredly, studio and all that), they’re free to be as prog-rock as they like, and this album does go into some pretty busy riffs and things, as evidenced in the opening track, “The Fight Of Our Lives,” which continues their tradition of writing sociopolitically topical lyrics focused on conflicts between the First and Third Estates, but always ending on a positive note (which gets more difficult each year, of course). But as I alluded to, this is more proggy; drummer Todd Sucherman has Neil Peart-level chops, which has to be making the other guys feel really pleased. Probably the band’s best ever, pound for pound. A+

Playlist

• Jane, stop this crazy thing, it’s July 28 already, a Friday, and you know what that means, that’s right, it means there will be a bunch of new albums for you to listen to if you haven’t completely given up on music yet! Look there, the first album off the assembly line is a live album from Sissy Spacek look-alike Joni Mitchell, called Joni Mitchell At Newport! That’s right, Facebook grandmoms, totally live versions of all your favorites from back when everyone lived in log cabins and believed in forest giants and wood nymphs, and — wait, is this the one where — yes, it is, it’s the one where Joni was wheeled out to the Newport Folk Festival as a surprise guest during Brandi Carlisle’s set, and it was so cool, Brandi twerking like a dancehall princess or whatever she usually does, and then they rolled Joni onstage in her ancient scarab-inlaid sarcophagus and Brandi probably ruined a few songs by singing/twerking along to tunes like “Big Yellow Taxi,” “Shine,” “Help Me” and “Come In From the Cold” and whatever, “Both Sides Now” and all those other super-old melodies that, when the grandmothers put their Joni cassettes in the boombox at the backyard barbecue, it’s the cue for us males immediately to gather together, pretending not to hear them or our wives or dates, while we form a big awkward man-circle, sizing each other up just like our Neanderthal ancestors, cheap smelly American lagers in hand, talking about installing random shelves in our garages or the skyrocketing price of Viagra and all the usual man stuff. And so all those tunes will be on this disc, remember to buy this album so that Joni can get even more ridiculously rich, you owe it to ’Murica as a citizen.

• If you’ve spent any time within earshot of the overhead speakers in a Target electronics department you know of Post Malone, the Syracuse, N.Y., singer/sort-of-rapper who’s essentially a more Disney-fied version of The Weeknd, doesn’t that sound goooood? Whatever, he’s got no beef with any corporate hip-hop fraudster that I’m aware of, so I’m already fighting to stay awake writing anything about him at all, but suffice to say that his new album is called Austin, and the title track is OK if you like his usual brand of post-Drake bedroom-trap-chill and have a tolerance for Auto-Tune and grillz and all the other cutting-edge cultural touchstones Malone figures he should zzzzzzzzzzzz

• Ack, I fell asleep, sorry, guys, and look who’s here, it’s Florida nu-metal wannabes Sevendust, with a sizzlin’ new album titled Truth Killer! You know, I interviewed these guys once, way back, for the Village Voice family of newspapers, and they were probably the nicest, least egotistical fellas I encountered back in those days, so hopefully they’re still a decent-enough band and still making tolerable if not terribly inventive hard rock so that I don’t have to bring down the thunder and bum them out in today’s column, you know how it goes! OK, wait, I am now broadcasting live from YouTube, where I’m watching the video for the band’s new song “Everything,” and it’s pretty decent, like Living Colour but heavier. They always did sound like Living Colour, of course, but now they sound like an even angrier derivative act!

• And finally we have London-based indie pop band The Clientele, with a new LP titled I Am Not There Anymore! They’ve released albums on Merge Records (including this one if I’m not mistaken) and that always means one thing: the reverb level is cranked to 11, which automatically makes this band awesome. The single, “Blue Over Blue” is like a cross between Beck and Belle & Sebastian, not anything I’d ever listen to in the car, but it’s fine, you have my permission to listen to it wherever you like.

If you’re in a local band, now’s a great time to let me know about your EP, your single, whatever’s on your mind. Let me know how you’re holding yourself together without being able to play shows or jam with your homies. Send a recipe for keema matar. Message me on Twitter (@esaeger) or Facebook (eric.saeger.9).

Creamy Cucumber and Pea Salad

We have reached the end of July, which is one of my favorite times of summer because of the local produce. If it has been a good farming season, we have tomatoes, cucumbers, lettuces and more available at nearby farm stands. This year’s rain has definitely wreaked havoc on local farms, but we can hope that the fields and produce will be salvaged.

Although widely available, cucumber is quite often an overlooked piece of produce in my world. It doesn’t have a lot of flavor, so it isn’t a go-to snack for me. However, because of its low flavor profile, it is excellent at retaining other flavors. This creamy cucumber and pea salad requires few ingredients but delivers a lot of texture and taste.

The ingredients in this recipe are straightforward. Ideally, the cucumber will be freshly picked, but a grocery store cuke will work also. For simplicity, stick with frozen peas, but fresh peas aren’t that much more work. Shell and add them to boiling water for a minute or two, and they’re ready for the salad. I prefer Greek yogurt, as it is extra creamy, but plain yogurt can work as well. One note: The cucumber needs to sit for an hour and the entire salad should rest for a couple hours, so make this in the morning, if you want it with dinner that night.

On a personal note this is my last recipe for Try This at Home. It’s been fun writing these articles, but it’s time for me to focus on other endeavors. Thank you for reading, trying my recipes, and occasionally reaching out. It’s been a fun few years!

Creamy Cucumber and Pea Salad
Serves 4

1 medium-sized cucumber
salt
½ cup peas, fresh or frozen
2 Tablespoons minced red onion
½ cup plain Greek yogurt
1½ Tablespoons cider vinegar
1 teaspoon sugar
ground black pepper

Peel cucumber.
Slice in half lengthwise twice, so that you have 4 spears.
Cut each spear into ½-inch-thick wedges.
Place cucumber wedges in a bowl, and sprinkle with 1 to 2 teaspoons of salt.
Allow to sit for at least an hour.
While the cucumber sits, blanch fresh peas or defrost frozen peas.
After an hour, drain cucumber, and transfer to a paper towel; blot to remove excess salt.
Combine cucumber, peas and onion in a medium-sized bowl.
Whisk yogurt, vinegar and sugar together in a small bowl.
Add yogurt mixture to veggies, and stir to combine.
Season with salt and pepper to taste, stirring well.
Chill for at least 2 hours before serving.

Featured photo: Creamy cucumber and pea salad. Photo by Michele Pesula Kuegler.

In the kitchen with Sherrie Paltrineri

Originally from East Aurora, New York, outside Buffalo, Sherrie Paltrineri went to school at Babson College in Massachusetts. Paltrineri always loved to cook and bake, and leaned into these hobbies while she was out of work due to the pandemic, selling homemade cocoa bombs at craft fairs. With her business, Sweet and Sassy, Paltrineri now makes and sells a variety of s’mores and marshmallow flavors and is a vendor at farmers markets in various towns such as Bedford and Greenfield.

What is your must-have kitchen item?

I am a collector of kitchen gadgets, much to my husband’s chagrin, but I think my one item I would be lost without is my deep fryer. Being from Buffalo, I am a wing snob. I know it’s completely unhealthy, but there are just some items that can’t be baked.

What would you have for your last meal?

A true Buffalo fish fry. For some reason, those Buffalonians know their way around a fryer. There was a restaurant in our town that was run by a German couple and they had the best fish fry around. We would order it with real German potato salad, french fries with malt vinegar on the side and pitchers of Iroquois Dark beer. That would be my ideal last meal.

What is your favorite local eatery?

I really like to stay home and cook, but when my husband and I have a date night we head to the Dublin Tap Room in Jaffrey. It’s right down the street from us, and they have Monday night wing specials. Their Buffalo wings are good … but the garlic Parmesan is to die for. They also do burger specials on Wednesdays, and prime rib dinners on some Friday nights. They have a huge tap menu and in the summer you can sit outside on the patio that overlooks the Shattuck golf course.

Name a celebrity you would like to see eating in your restaurant?

Two come to mind. Rob Lowe would be one, not that I would have anything to offer him [because] I don’t think he is a sweets kind of guy, but I have had a crush on him since the ’80s and I would love to meet him in person. The other celebrity would be Judge Judy. This would be someone I could sit down and really talk to while she indulged in some desserts. I just love her no-nonsense approach to life.

What is your favorite thing on your menu?

It’s hard to say, as I feel like every time I make a new treat, I think “this is my favorite,” but push come to shove, our Almond Joy s’mores bar is probably my go-to treat.

What is the biggest food trend in New Hampshire right now?

Limited-time-only offers have been around for a long time, but we are seeing more of [it to] make people think they will miss it if they wait another day. … I am also fascinated by Crumbl’s menu strategy of releasing only six cookies each week. You don’t know what they will be until Sunday night, they are only available that week and you never know when, or if, they will be back.

What is your favorite thing to cook at home?

My favorite thing to cook would be any meal where my whole family can be together. It could be sandwiches or a full Thanksgiving meal, but just cooking to bring us all together at the same table would make me happy.

Mya Blanchard

Key Lime Marshmallows
From the kitchen of Sweet and Sassy

½ cup Key lime juice
3 packages unflavored gelatin
2 cups sugar
½ cup water
½ cup corn syrup
½ teaspoon salt
green food color (optional)

In a standing mixer mixing bowl, pour lime juice and sprinkle the 3 packages of unflavored gelatin on top.
In a heavy sauce pan, add sugar, water, corn syrup and salt, stir, and bring to a boil.
Let sugar mixture boil until a candy thermometer reads 240°.
Once sugar mixture reaches 240°, mix the gelatin bloom and then begin to slowly pour the hot sugar mixture into it while whipping it on low.
Turn mixer to high and continue whipping for 7 to 8 minutes, or until mixture triples in size and begins to pull away from the sides of the bowl. Add a few drops of food color.
Immediately pour mixture into a well greased 9×13” pan. For thicker marshmallows, use an 8×8” pan.
Let set for 4 hours minimum, or overnight.


Featured photo: Sherrie Paltrineri. Courtesy photo.

It’s Donut O’clock

Doughnut makers find their crowd in Nashua

By Mya Blanchard
mblanchard@hippopress.com

Their first time at the Nashua farmers market, Donut O’clock sold out in just 40 minutes.

“I don’t know how that happened because it was our very first day in Nashua,” said Anna Khachatryan, who owns the business with her husband. “We had this rush of people [and] everything was gone by 10:40 a.m. It was just the best experience.”

Donut O’clock, which operates out of a commercial kitchen in Derry, attends the Nashua farmers market at 6 Hartshorn Ave. every other week, returning on Aug. 6.

According to Khachatryan, what has now become Donut O’clock started not as a business venture but as an experiment.

“We were trying doughnut places here and there and … every time we would try a new place, one of the components wouldn’t be satisfactory,” she said. “We really couldn’t find the ideal doughnut.”

Being a pastry chef, her husband Davit Hovhannisyan decided to create the ideal doughnut himself. He started developing the recipe during the beginning of 2022. After months of research and experimentation, he finally perfected the recipe for the brioche-style dough.

“It takes a lot of time to ferment and he would use a special technique so at the end the doughnuts would come out really, really fluffy,” said Khachatryan. “Then he would experiment with the glazes and the flavors. His goal was to develop a dessert that is not too high in calories, but at the same time is really elevated. … It was a journey.”

The two began bringing the doughnuts along to gatherings for friends, who declared the doughnuts the best they had ever tasted.

“Instead of taking it just as a compliment, he thought that maybe it [was] worth turning it into a full production,” Khachatryan said.

By September 2022, Donut O’clock was officially in business. With 15 varieties on their website menu, like maple apricot, apple caramel, mango and strawberry cheesecake and tiramisu, each doughnut is hand-rolled, according to Khachatryan. The creams are made from scratch every day with quality ingredients; they craft their own purees, jellies and glazes from fresh fruit.

“It is a labor of love. It is really, really demanding,” Khachatryan said. “The techniques are really artisan. They’re handmade, whereas if you go to a typical doughnut shop you will have machinery involved.”

Originally from Armenia, Khachatryan and Hovhannisyan moved to Boston and then to New Hampshire about five years ago. Both with musical backgrounds, Hovhannisyan being a classical pianist and Khachatryan being the director Virtuoso Kids Music Academy in Nashua, they wanted to incorporate musicality and artistry into their doughnuts.

“He’s so close to art and so close to the kitchen, so he just tried to make artistic doughnuts,” Khachatryan said. “It’s just like music and art; there’s a lot of components like different textures and different flavors.”

Khachatryan has noticed more and more local businesses bringing handmade products to the market, which is something she is glad to be a part of.

“The markets have been great so far. We just love people’s feedback, it’s been overwhelmingly [positive],” she said. “We are adjusting the numbers and bringing more and more but since they are handmade there’s a production capacity; we can’t just make a thousand. Not yet.”

Donut O’clock
Where: Find Donut O’clock at the Nashua farmers market in the Nashua Public Library parking lot, 6 Hartshorn Ave.
When: Sundays, Aug. 6, Aug. 20, Sept. 3, Sept. 17, Oct. 1, Oct. 15, Oct. 29, Nov. 12 and Nov. 26, 10 a.m. to 2 p.m.
Visit: donutoclock.net

Featured photo: Photo courtesy of Donut O’clock.

A casual alternative

The Patio at the Mile Away now open in Milford

A Milford institution for more than 50 years, the Mile Away Restaurant is best-known as a frequently visited spot for special occasions of all kinds, from birthday and anniversary parties to weddings. A new outdoor space directly adjacent to the eatery’s main dining area is inviting guests to enjoy lighter fare in a more casual setting, featuring its own separate kitchen and menus, along with a seated bar with TVs and additional seating at patio tables with umbrellas.

The Patio at the Mile Away, which recently opened for the season, operates during the same hours as its main restaurant and event center, weather permitting. It’s open to walk-in guests and, unlike the Mile Away’s plated four-course European-style dinners, offers a menu of shareable tapas, entree-sized salads and soups, and burgers and sandwiches with choice of a side. The outdoor bar even has its own draft lines and specialty cocktail offerings.

“It’s essentially a completely separate concept, and it’s like having a completely different restaurant that just happens to also be on the premises,” Mile Away general manager Kyle Altman said. “[We wanted to] have a more casual option for people to come out and just have a drink after work, which the four-course European-style fine dining thing doesn’t necessarily appeal to that particular occasion. But now, we can appeal to both.”

Although the patio space was constructed during the summer of 2019 before making its debut that fall, this is the first season in which the new outdoor kitchen is up and running. It’s full of unique amenities that longtime Mile Away owner Joshua Murphy built himself, from a corrugated steel roof over the bar seats to a pulley-like mechanism on its wooden fence, the latter designed to give wedding guests privacy during concurrent ceremonies.

Mile Away executive chef Mark Worcester, an industry veteran, has worked several stints at the restaurant on and off over the years, dating back to 1978. He said the patio’s menu was created with simplicity in mind, as well as various best-sellers on previous menus. Only a few items, like the Mile Away’s famous Swedish meatballs, cross over with the restaurant’s main dinner menu.

“We’ve been here for over 50 years, but the thing is that … people will get used to just coming here for special occasions, and we wanted to kind of shake it up a little bit,” Worcester said.

fish on leafy salad with pecans and lemon slices, on plate
Photo courtesy of the Mile Away Restaurant.

But despite its more casual approach, Altman said the menu will still feel familiar to guests who expect that traditional tried and true cuisine the Mile Away has long been known for.

“You don’t have to be constantly doing the newest things with the newest ingredients, if you do the classic recipes perfectly,” Altman said. “That’s some of the appeal. … Sometimes you don’t want to try a new thing every time you go out. You want this thing that you get every year on your anniversary, because we do it perfectly and no one else can do it.”

According to Altman, the Mile Away building was originally a farm built way back in 1746, and was one of the earliest settlements of the town of Monson, New Hampshire (now parts of Hollis, Brookline and Amherst). The farm is one mile away from Monson rock, hence the eatery’s name.

The plan is for the patio to operate from around late April through mid-October, or around when the Mile Away hosts in annual Oktoberfest celebration, although they do have propane heaters they can install on colder nights. Altman added that it can also be available to wedding clients.

“If people want to have a bachelor party, or if they want to just rent this out as part of their program with our wedding packages, this is an option … just the same as they can rent out the private room inside the restaurant,” he said.

The Patio at the Mile Away
Where: Mile Away Restaurant, 52 Federal Hill Road, Milford
Hours: Wednesday through Saturday, 5 to 8 p.m., and Sunday, 1 to 6 p.m. (hours are weather permitting). Closed Mondays and Tuesdays.
More info: mileawayrestaurantnh.com/the-patio
Walk-ins are welcome for outdoor patio service; no reservations required.

Featured photo: Patio photo by Matt Ingersoll.

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