Album Reviews 21/09/30

Ian Jones, The Evergreens (Thin Silver Records)

The other week I took a trip up north, to maraud (I don’t just simply “browse”) an estate sale. Tired of all the CDs in my car, I tried to find a radio station. Something popped up, a really good rock-ish song, on a Christian rock station, WANH 88.3 FM in Meredith. I was awed by the tuneage, because none of it was bad (Brandon Lake’s “Come Out Of That Grave,” an epic mix of Kings of Leon/Killers, was really good). I say all this because mellow rock can be OK even if your taste in rock tends to be bad for you, like mine. So I submit this EP, made by a Seattle songwriter with a gift for evoking mellow-mode Eagles and things like that. It’s quite inviting, especially when Jones trots out his Conor Oberst imitation in the strummy “Liars Criminals Beggars and Thieves.” A

Aakash Mittal, Nocturne (self-released)

In India, Calcutta is now known as Kolkata. It’s not a place I’d picture as being particularly still, especially at night, and that exact vibe — or at least its musical sounds — is what saxophonist Mittal attempts to capture on this album. His accomplices in the trio are guitarist Miles Okazaki and percussionist Rajna Swaminathan, who plays the instruments that bring the greatest degree of realism, the mridangam and kanjira. The setting may be an Indian city of 4.5 million residents, but the volume raises and lowers itself to incoherent buzzings like any other hyperactive metropolis. My impression is that it’s mostly improvisational (“Nocturne III” being an obvious exception; there was definitely quite a bit of planning there), aiming for feel more than melody, but the latter can indeed be found here and there. Matter of fact, if your workday involves some subway time, you could be listening to a lot less interesting things. A

PLAYLIST

• It’s a new week of music releases, all coming out on Oct. 1, for your musical pleasure and/or disappointment! Looking at the formidable list of new albums, my attention — such as it is these days — was immediately drawn to True Love, the fourth album from Texas-based pop duo Hovvdy! I’ve never heard of these people, and in fact the only reason I even got into the weeds with them was that they use two v’s in their name, like Pitchfork-beloved rock band Wavves. No, I know Hovvdy is stylizing the two-v thing in a different way, but I like how they’re doing it more than the way Wavves does it. See how music-critiquing works, folks? Whatever, I shall endeavor to see if this is at all interesting henceforth, as the title track is available for advance order (you wish, Hovvdy) or pirate-listening right now, on my computer! Huh, this sounds like Ben Kweller except listenable, sort of an Americana vibe, Simon & Garfunkel-ish, like a non-annoying Radiohead doing a chill-down. I can deal with this more or less.

• Any band that was once drunk enough to name their band Illuminati Hotties has my unwavering support, which will totally remain unwavering until I hear some bad music from them, which I’m fully prepared for, as I have a handy barf-bag right next to my badass-looking gamer chair, right here! Wikipedia, which is always on the cutting edge of super-hip words, tells me the band is “a vehicle for the songwriting of producer, mixer, and audio engineer Sarah Tudzin.” Well, that’s certainly less obfuscatory than saying “get ready for some cool grooves from a super-weird chick,” which is what you actually get here, on the band’s new album, Let Me Do One More! There is a single, called “Mmmoooaaaaayaya,” and it starts out with a Primus riff reminiscent of the guitar theme from South Park, and in the video Sarah comes out wearing nothing but a black sports bra. It’s pretty cool, and then she starts making fun of stupid men who try to pick up girls by using stupid pickup lines or whatnot, and then it gets louder, and pea soup starts falling from somewhere up above, and soon enough Sarah’s making fun of the Democratic National Committee while getting pea soup all over her. Is it edgy? Yes, but it does not solve world peace, so in my expert opinion it is simply a rock ’n’ roll song, not the answer to mankind’s prayers.

• Hoo boy, what could possibly be next. Whoa, wait, look, it’s industrial-metal band Ministry, one of the few bands on this planet I can actually stand, and they have a new album, Moral Hygiene, coming to your music store, if those even exist anymore! Ha ha, remember when Ministry released the song “Antifa” a couple of years ago, and it made people angry? What’s that? No, not the time people got angry over all those millions of other things, this was a different thing. Let’s just drop it and go watch the video for their new song, “Good Trouble,” shall we? Ha ha, it’s so badass, look, there’s their singer, Papa Al Satan, with American flag sunglasses, and random video clips of riots and burning stuff. The tune is a mega-heavy grinding cacophony of metallic mayhem, it’s awesome, haven’t these guys broken up like five times now?

• Finally we have million-year-old prog-rock band Yes, with their newest LP, The Quest! Given that bass player and bandleader Chris Squire died a few years ago, I don’t think any band should call itself Yes, but whatever, sort-of-original guitarist Steve Howe is here, as is Geoff Downes and Alan White, but, spoiler, Jon Anderson still hates everybody and isn’t here. Starter single “The Ice Bridge” is pretty much like Rush gone New Age. Pretty silly, probably some leftover nonsense from their Close To The Edge album, but you might like it.

If you’re in a local band, now’s a great time to let me know about your EP, your single, whatever’s on your mind. Let me know how you’re holding yourself together without being able to play shows or jam with your homies. Send a recipe for keema matar. Message me on Twitter (@esaeger) or Facebook (eric.saeger.9).

Lady in Blue

When I was extremely young, my father was a big fan of easy listening music. His favorite song was called “I Want Some Red Roses for a Blue Lady.” I remember this song as being awful.

Yesterday I thought of it for some reason and looked it up. It turns out that Wayne Newton recorded it in 1965. As I called it up on YouTube, I knew that I would listen to it and realize that now, as I hobble into late middle age, it would actually be pretty good. I would find myself enjoying it and that a week from now it would be on the driving playlist I use to torture my teenager.

As it turns out, it’s even worse than I remembered from my childhood. The trauma from hearing this as a kid must have forced the worst of it from my memory. Even I wouldn’t inflict this on The Teen.

On the topic of questionable decisions from the 1960s, I was reading through 1969’s The Esquire Drink Book, looking for a new cocktail recipe. When it comes to Mad Men-era, charming-but-arrogant drink recipes, Esquire had a bit of a corner on the market.

The recipe that grabbed my attention had a name so of its time that even after I read through it, said, “Nah!” and flipped past it, I kept returning to it: The Bosom Caresser. I mean, if you’re looking for a Swinging Sixties, Wayne Newton on the hi-fi, “My wife doesn’t understand me” type of drink, this seemed like a no-brainer.

Long story short: I ended up making it and it was OK. It was not spectacular and I don’t think I’ll make it again. The combination of brandy, marsala wine and raw egg yolk did not fill me with enthusiasm.

(That said, I did find out the hard way that if you do make a cocktail with a raw egg yolk in it, you should dry-shake it with the alcohol first, before adding the ice. Dropping a yolk into a shaker full of ice will make some of it freeze and you will end up with really unappetizing globs of it floating around in your drink that you will need to filter out before serving. We know that now.)

So where does that leave us?

In my case, invigorated from a long hot shower, to wash the sleaze off me and the memory of Wayne Newton out of my memory. As an antidote, here is the classiest drink I know:

Lady in Blue

Ingredients

1½ ounces very cold gin

¼ ounce créme de violette

¾ ounce fresh squeezed lemon juice

½ ounce simple syrup

3 drops orange blossom water

A “slip” of blue curaçao

Combine all ingredients, except the blue curaçao, with ice in a cocktail shaker.

Shake until frost forms on the shaker and your hands become uncomfortably cold.

Strain into a martini glass. This is one occasion where you should not frost the glass first; you will want to show this cocktail off. The frosted glass would mess with that.

Pour a small slip of blue curaçao down one side of the glass. It is denser than the rest of the drink and will pool in the bottom of the glass.

While this is a delicious cocktail — crisp, gently sweet, subtly floral and just ginny enough to grab your attention — this is probably the prettiest drink you will ever make. If you find yourself needing to impress somebody, this is the drink to make. It’s gorgeous without making it seem like you’ve tried too hard.

Featured photo: Lady in Blue. Photo by John Fladd.

Red wine from bourbon barrels

Does reusing spirit barrels add something to wines?

Natural and minimalist winemaking methods have been prominent in the news these past several years but there is another trend surfacing: bourbon (and other spirits) barrel-aged wine.

Production has boomed since its modern re-introduction in 2014 by Fetzer Vineyards, which produced a zinfandel that was aged in recycled bourbon barrels. Distillers have aged spirits in bourbon barrels, but a little-known fact is that aging wine in recycled whiskey barrels has a storied past.

The Beringer brothers arrived in Napa in 1869 to work at Charles Krug, one of the first wineries in Napa Valley. In 1876 they had their first pressing of their own grapes, and to age their wines they reused whiskey barrels. Long on ambition but short on cash, they thought it made good financial sense and they discovered it added a certain complexity to the wine. Fast forward, we have a whole generation of millennials intent on exploring and expanding the production of bourbon and other spirits, and the marketplace for mainstream and small-batch distilleries.

In addition to bourbon barrel-aged cabernet sauvignons, we have other red varietals now aged in spirit barrels, and the trend has extended to tequila barrel-aged sauvignon blancs. But how does spirit barrel aging influence the structure and taste of the wine? Does it really impact the wine? Bourbon barrels are slightly taller and skinnier than standard oak barriques, and thus increase the wine-to-wood ratio. Also, bourbon barrels are required to be made from new, heavily toasted American oak. Since they are used just once, there is an abundance of flavor left in the wood. These barrels impart the character of whatever was previously in them, so, with bourbon barrels, you should expect that smooth sweetness and vanilla and caramel essence of the bourbon in your wine.

Our first wine is the Beringer Bros. 2019 Bourbon Barrel Aged Cabernet Sauvignon (available at the New Hampshire Liquor & Wine Outlets at $17.99). The color is intensely purple-red and “thick.” To the nose are scents of ripe black cherries and chocolate. To the tongue, the black cherries remain, albeit reduced, and there are persistent tannins. I don’t know if the “flattened fruit” is the product of the grapes or the fact the wine was aged for six months in bourbon barrels. This is unquestionably a wine to be paired with grilled beef or pasta with a tomato sauce. It will balance but not overpower your entrée, with an alcoholic content of 14.5 percent.

Our second wine, a Robert Montavi 2019 Private Selection Bourbon Barrel Aged Cabernet Sauvignon (available at the New Hampshire Liquor & Wine Outlets at $10.95, reduced from $15.99), is produced a bit differently. The grapes grown in Mondavi’s coastal vineyards are aged in a mix of new and used bourbon barrels. Mondavi reports the new barrels give the wine its undertone of toasted oak, while the used barrels, from a Kentucky distillery, impart vanilla and dried herbs. This blending of barrels sets this wine aside from other cabernets. The color is dark purple-red, fading to a rose-colored ring. To the nose, there are blackberries and chocolate. To the tongue, the berries are joined with vanilla, caramel and some mocha. The tannins are much softer than in the Beringer tasting. With an alcoholic content of 14.5 percent, this is a wine to be paired with grilled meats, including marinated chicken.

Our third wine, the 1924 Limited Edition Bourbon Barrel Aged Cabernet Sauvignon, by Gnarly Head Wines (available at the New Hampshire Liquor & Wine Outlets at $11.99, reduced from $16.99), heralds from Lodi in California’s Central Valley. With an alcoholic content of 15 percent, this is a wine that needs decanting and can be paired with game, venison or lamb. The color is dark, dark purple and the nose is of blackberries and leather. To the tongue there is an abundance of dark berry fruit, coupled with strong tannins. A dryness permeates the finish.

Tim McKirdy, staff writer at VinePair, noted in an article that one critic states that spirits-barrel aging is a “marketing gimmick” and it’s a great way to “mask the flaws of sub-standard fruit.” In McKirdy’s referencing the tweet, the critic further states, “It’s like putting lipstick on a pig. It’s still a pig!”

On the other hand, other critics allude to the “blurring” of lines; this method is attracting beer and spirits drinkers to pair their food with spirits-barrel aged wine. I say, you be the judge!

Featured photo: Courtesy photo.

Pumpkin pie biscotti

We are working our way through the fall flavors in this column: first a savory sweet potato baked good, then a unique apple side dish. Now, it’s time to add some pumpkin to your menu.

Rather than serving pumpkin in a pie, it’s time to try it in biscotti. Not only does this give you a new way to eat biscotti, but it also makes it an acceptable way to eat cookies for breakfast. While you wouldn’t think about offering chocolate chip cookies for breakfast, biscotti seem to hover on the line as to whether they’re a dessert or breakfast treat.

These biscotti are simple to make and store incredibly well. Although if the people in your house are anything like mine, you won’t have to worry about storing them for long.

Michele Pesula Kuegler has been thinking about food her entire life. Since 2007, the New Hampshire native has been sharing these food thoughts and recipes at her blog, Think Tasty. Visit thinktasty.com to find more of her recipes.

Pumpkin pie biscotti
Makes 24

1/2 cup unsalted butter, softened
1 cup granulated sugar
1 egg
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
2 1/4 cups all-purpose flour
1 1/2 teaspoons baking powder
1/4 teaspoon salt
1 1/2 teaspoons cinnamon
1/2 teaspoon allspice
1/2 cup pumpkin purée
1 cup white chocolate chips
1 teaspoon coconut oil

Preheat oven to 350 degrees.
Beat butter and sugar in a large bowl for 2 to 3 minutes.
Add egg and vanilla extract, beating until smooth.
In a separate bowl, combine flour, baking powder, salt, cinnamon, and allspice.
Add flour mixture to wet ingredients and mix well.
Add pumpkin to mixture, stirring well to combine.
Divide dough in half.
Shape each half into a 10″ x 3″ rectangle, using floured hands.
Set loaves 2″ apart on a parchment paper-lined baking sheet.
Bake for 30 minutes or until the dough is set.
Leaving the oven on, remove the baking tray and place on a cooling rack for 15 minutes.
Transfer each loaf to a cutting board, and slice the loaves into diagonal bars, 1/2″ thick.
Return biscotti slices to the cookie sheet with the cut sides down.
Bake for 10 minutes.
Flip slices to other cut side, and bake for 10 minutes more.
Remove biscotti from oven, and allow to cool completely on a cooling rack.
Combine white chocolate and coconut oil in a small microwave-safe bowl.
Microwave for 30 seconds, then stir.
Continue heating chocolate in 15-second increments, stirring in between, until chocolate glaze is smooth.
Using a spoon, spread a layer of glaze on the tops or sides of biscotti.
Refrigerate for 15 minutes to set glaze.

Photo: Pumpkin pie biscotti. Photo by Michele Pesula Kuegler.

In the kitchen with Mackenzie Lindquist

Mackenzie Lindquist of Goffstown is the owner of Boston Bakes (find her on Facebook @bostonbakesnh and on Instagram @boston_bakes), a homestead business offering a variety of sweets and treats made to order, from birthday or special-occasion cakes to multiple flavors of macarons, cupcakes, cookies and more. Born and raised in New Hampshire, Lindquist got her start in the industry when she moved to Boston at the age of 18, first working at Flour Bakery + Cafe before later holding an assistant pastry chef position at Mistral, a French Bistro in the city’s South End. Just prior to going full-time with Boston Bakes, she was the pastry chef of Greenleaf in Milford for about a year, creating the farm-to-table eatery’s entire dessert menu while drawing on nostalgic flavors from her childhood. Orders can be placed through her Facebook or Instagram pages, or through her email at [email protected], with pre-arranged pickups out of Lindquist’s home. Local deliveries are also available.

What is your must-have kitchen item?

Definitely a rubber spatula. People have heard me say so many times that I hate to waste product, so a rubber spatula always helps ensure that I get that last bit of whatever I’m baking.

What would you have for your last meal?

It’s a tie between barbecue eel sushi and birthday cake Oreos.

What is your favorite local restaurant?

My current favorite is Taipei & Tokyo, located in Bedford. I’ve been going there with my dad ever since I was younger. They consistently have the best Japanese food, for sure.

What celebrity would you like to see trying something that you’ve baked?

[Top Chef winner] Melissa King. She’s just an icon.

What is your personal favorite dessert that you’ve ever made?

I think it might be the three macaron trees that I did for a private event at Greenleaf. It was a project that took nearly two weeks to complete and had over 300 macarons, but it was so satisfying to see them at the end.

What is the biggest food trend in New Hampshire right now?

I think it’s probably farm-to-table dining. I love that people, especially now after Covid, are really interested in learning about where their food comes from and what is in season in New Hampshire. As chefs, we love to be able to teach people about that kind of stuff.

What is your favorite thing to make at home?

The humble chocolate chip cookie. They are just the best.

Mom’s soft pumpkin chocolate chip cookies
From the kitchen of Mackenzie Lindquist of Boston Bakes

1 can pumpkin puree
2 eggs
1 cup vegetable oil
2 teaspoons vanilla
2 teaspoons milk
4 cups flour
2 cups sugar
2 teaspoons cinnamon
1 teaspoon salt
2 teaspoons baking soda
4 teaspoons baking powder
2 cups chocolate chips
Cloves and/or nutmeg (optional)

Combine wet ingredients into one bowl and set aside. Combine dry ingredients except for the chocolate chips into another bowl. Whisk wet and dry ingredients together. Fold in the chocolate chips with a rubber spatula. Scoop batter, about two tablespoons worth per cookie, onto a greased cookie sheet. Bake at 350 degrees for 10 to 12 minutes, or until the edges appear set. Wait until cool and enjoy.

Featured photo: Mackenzie Lindquist. Courtesy photo.

Riverside brews

Exeter’s Powder Keg Beer Festival returns

When the Powder Keg Beer & Chili Festival was first held in downtown Exeter in 2012, there were only a few other events like it in New Hampshire. Nine years later it continues to be one of the largest beer festivals in New England, bringing together dozens of local and regional breweries collectively pouring more than 200 different beers, ciders and hard seltzers to try in one spot. After a one-year hiatus in 2020, Powder Keg is back — the festival will return on Saturday, Oct. 2, along Exeter’s Swasey Parkway by the Squamscott River.

Of course this year’s festival is not without its modifications, perhaps the most notable being the absence of chili makers that usually accompany the breweries. Instead there will be a few local food trucks parked throughout the day, in addition to some specialty food vendors.

“We didn’t want to approach restaurants about donating large amounts of chili and staffing a booth, because we know how hard it’s been for the industry,” said Greg Bisson, director of the Exeter Parks & Recreation Department, which organizes the festival in collaboration with the town’s Chamber of Commerce, “but that also allowed us to spread out our beer vendors more. So, where we used to have four big-top tents with all of the breweries under them, we are now spreading them out on the perimeter of the whole entire park to allow people to have their own booth … and give them a couple of feet of open air away from others.”

Another change is the implementation of two ticketed sessions. Beer lovers can choose to attend and receive unlimited beer tastings either from 11 a.m. to 1 p.m., or from 2 to 4 p.m.

An eclectic lineup of brews will be represented, Bisson said, from multiple styles of IPAs to sours, stouts and many seasonal releases. Festival organizers partner with the social network app Untappd to provide an online list of what you will encounter.

Beer purveyors will range from big names like Sam Adams to breweries right in Exeter or surrounding towns. In some cases they may showcase some harder-to-find offerings.

“The Exeter Brewing Co. will bring its Swasey Daze [New England IPA], which only drops in a few stores, so that’s a bit of a unique situation,” Bisson said. “We always get the variety of pumpkin beers, being in the fall … [and] we’ve been seeing a trend in hard seltzers as well.”

Truly Hard Seltzer, for instance, will be there pouring its lemon iced tea, tropical punch and strawberry lemonade. As an alternative to hard seltzer but without the carbonation, NOCA Beverages is a company founded by three University of New Hampshire graduates — they will be at the festival too, pouring multiple flavors of their spiked still water.

As it is Oktoberfest season, you can expect a fair share of Märzen-style lagers or festbiers, including those from Woodland Farms Brewery of Kittery, Maine, Long Blue Cat Brewing Co. of Londonderry, and Sawbelly Brewing Co. of Exeter, to name a few.

Cabot Creamery will be giving out cheese samples to pair with your beers, while options from the featured food trucks will include burgers from Lexie’s Burger Bus and sweets from Clyde’s Cupcakes, both of Exeter. Chubba Wubba’s Sweets & Refreshments, a Seabrook-based mobile kitchen converted from an old Manchester Transit Authority bus, will be serving ice cream and other treats, while Chubb’s Fries & Dough will provide fair food.

“I think there’s a lot to offer in Exeter … and we hope, with the short two-hour blocks, it offers people the opportunity to enjoy downtown,” Bisson said.

Powder Keg Beer Festival

When: Saturday, Oct. 2; two ticketed sessions are offered, from 11 a.m. to 1 p.m., and from 2 to 4 p.m.
Where: Swasey Parkway, Exeter
Cost: General admission tickets are $35 in advance and $45 at the door ($10 in advance and $15 at the door for designated drivers). Attendees can also purchase a commemorative pint glass at the festival for $10.
Visit: powderkegbeerfest.com
Event is 21+ only. No children or pets are allowed. Free parking is located around the festival’s entrance off Water Street, as well as at the Main Street School (40 Main St.) and the Lincoln Street Elementary School (25 Lincoln St.).

Featured photo: Photo by Allie Burke Photography.

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