Flavors of Jalisco

Los Reyes Street Tacos & More to open in Derry

Jose Reyes of Manchester comes from multiple generations of street food vending in Mexico — his father, grandfather and brother all continue to serve birria, or slow-stewed meat, on the streets of Reyes’s home state of Jalisco. With more than a decade of combined kitchen experience across multiple local Mexican eateries, from La Carreta to Puerto Vallarta, Jose Reyes and his wife Isabel are now honoring his family’s tradition with their first restaurant as owners.

Los Reyes Street Tacos & More, on track to open soon at the Hillside Plaza in Derry, will offer simple flavors of authentic Mexican street food, Isabel Reyes said.

“We didn’t want to just be ‘Los Reyes Mexican Restaurant.’ We really want to be known for our street tacos,” she said. “We’re going to have a menu section of different salsas and … they’re all going to have a little description and their own amount of kick to them.”

Co-owner Jose Reyes’s brother, father and grandfather are street vendors in Degollado, Jalisco, Mexico. Courtesy photo.

The eatery will operate in a mostly fast casual type of environment, with an open kitchen near the front and an advanced online ordering system expected to be implemented. Street tacos, quesadillas, burritos and bowls will all come with a variety of filling options, like carnitas, grilled chicken, chorizo, barbacoa beef, haddock, shrimp or sauteed veggies.

Other menu options the couple has in store include a Southwest chicken salad; Mexican street corn, either roasted or unroasted with lime, cotija cheese and a special cream sauce; and sopes, which Isabel Reyes described as being topped similar to tostadas, featuring refried beans, lettuce, tomato, cheese, sour cream and the desired filling, but with a fried masa, or corn, base.

Co-owner Jose Reyes’s brother, father and grandfather are street vendors in Degollado, Jalisco, Mexico. Courtesy photo.

Birria, Isabel Reyes said, is most commonly served on a plate in the form of goat meat. You won’t find goat on their menu, but you will be able to try quesabirras, inspired by the traditional stew and featuring beef, onion, cilantro and a side of consommé, or the stewed broth.

“It’s slow-stewed, so basically it’s cooked for six to eight hours until it’s very tender, and then it’s mixed in with different spices,” she said. “The consommé is basically the same stew that helped cook the meat, so we give you that to dip it in and it gives it that extra flavor.”

For dessert, Los Reyes will be offering items like churros and xangos, or cheesecake chimichangas. They’re also partnering with Dulces Bakery of Manchester to source their tres leches, or cakes soaked in three different types of milk that are then topped with homemade whipped cream and served in refrigerated single-portion cups. They come in a variety of flavors.

Drinks will feature selections of both domestic and Mexican imported beers, along with some local craft brew options, and flavors of agua fresca, a light fruit drink popular in Mexico.

Isabel Reyes said food specials will likely be added to the menu on a rotating basis.

“We may add new plates or new desserts maybe every three months or so, just to throw something out there and change it up,” she said. “We have a lot of ideas, and [Jose] loves to try to learn new and different things.”

Los Reyes Street Tacos & More
An opening date is expected to be announced soon. Visit their website or follow them on social media for updates.

Where: 127 Rockingham Road, Unit 15, Derry
Anticipated hours: Monday through Saturday; hours TBA but will be open for both lunch and dinner service (closed on Sundays)
More info: Visit losreyesstreettacos.com, or find them on Facebook @losreyestacosnh or on Instagram @losreyestacos_nh

Featured photo: Isabel and Jose Reyes, owners of Los Reyes Street Tacos & More. Photo by Matt Ingersoll.

The Weekly Dish 22/02/24

News from the local food scene

Last call for LaBelle Lights: LaBelle Winery Derry (14 Route 111) is closing out its inaugural LaBelle Lights outdoor light display with a special Mardi Gras celebration on Friday, Feb. 25, and Saturday, Feb. 26, when there will be themed food and drink items available for purchase, as well as beads, Zydeco music and more. These will be the final two dates of the season that LaBelle Lights will be open on the winery’s golf course — the festive outdoor light show has been open since just before Thanksgiving and very quickly exceeded expectations with thousands of visitors in just the first month alone, owner Amy LaBelle told the Hippo in December. Plans are already underway to bring LaBelle Lights back to the winery next winter. Tickets to either of the last two dates this weekend are $15, and the hours are from 4:30 to 9 p.m. each evening. Visit labellewinery.com/lights to purchase tickets.

Festival of wines: Speaking of Mardi Gras, there’s still time to get your tickets to A Mardi Gras Wine Festival, an event presented by St. Thomas Aquinas Church that’s happening at the Aquinas Center (26 Crystal Ave., Derry) on Saturday, Feb. 26, from 6 to 9 p.m. The evening is expected to include samplings and bottles for purchase from several New Hampshire-made wineries, including Zorvino Vineyards of Sandown, Appolo Vineyards of Derry and Flag Hill Distillery & Winery of Lee. There will also be live music, raffles, games, a door prize, food and more. Tickets are $40 per person or $70 per couple and can be purchased online or over the phone. Visit stthomasderry.org, find the event on Facebook or call the church office at 432-5000.

Go Greek: Join St. George Greek Orthodox Cathedral (650 Hanover St., Manchester), for An Apokreatiko Celebration, another Mardi Gras-themed event, happening on Saturday, Feb. 26, from 7 to 11 p.m. inside the church hall. There will be a variety of hors d’oeuvres available, in addition to a cash bar, Greek and American dancing, and a live performance from Greek DJs The Salonica Boys. Tickets are $20 per person and can be purchased either in advance or at the door. Children under the age of 12 receive free admission. In the coming months, St. George Greek Orthodox Cathedral has other upcoming drive-thru events planned, according to its most recent newsletter, including a lamb shank dinner on March 19, a fish dinner on April 17 and a gyro event on May 21. Visit stgeorgenh.org or call the church office at 622-9113.

On The Job – Dave Gambaccini

Dave Gambaccini

Commercial real estate advisor

Dave Gambaccini is a Certified Commercial Investment Member and the senior advisor at Colliers Financial Services in Manchester, a commercial real estate brokerage firm and investment management company.

Explain your job.

I secure commercial loans for commercial real estate owners, investors and developers. I structure and underwrite loans … evaluate development or redevelopment budgets and … source loan proposals from multiple lenders at once, saving time and maximizing lending options for my clients.

How long have you had this job? 

I [was previously] managing my own local firm, securing private equity and debt for commercial developments. I joined Colliers last year.

What led you to this career field and your current job? 

I began investing in real estate in 2006, creating my own portfolio of properties. Eventually, it became a career. … I started on the brokerage side of the business … and moved into capital markets, helping [clients] to secure private investor money and lender debt.

What kind of education or training did you need?

I have earned the Certified Commercial Investment Member Designation … [which] represents proven expertise in financial, market, user, and investment analysis, as well as negotiations. … CCIMs complete a rigorous program of advanced coursework and training in financial and market analysis and demonstrate extensive experience in the commercial real estate industry. Less than 10 percent of commercial real estate professionals are CCIMs.

How has your job changed over the course of the pandemic?

When the pandemic really set in, real estate developments came to a screeching halt. There was too much uncertainty, which created less demand for private equity and debt. As Covid restrictions and market fluctuations stabilized … the demand for private equity started coming back; however, investor confidence was still low, which brought an increased demand for debt. Now, with the looming threat of increasing interest rates, we are … helping our clients secure cash out refinancing to take advantage of the low cost to borrow capital.

What do you wish you had known at the beginning of your career?

It took a while before I found my path. … I have a science degree [and] spent nearly 15 years in corporate America before turning personal investments into a career. … Finding industry mentors helped guide my path, and finding them sooner may have helped.

What do you wish other people knew about your job? 

I secure purchase loans, refinancing, cash out refinancing, permanent and construction loans and even bridge or mezzanine loans. Working directly with a lender is common; however, I can source multiple lenders at the same time [so that] you are getting the most competitive offer from multiple sources.

What was the first job you ever had?

I started working for my father when I was 12 … [at his] landscape [and] construction company.

What is the best piece of work-related advice you have ever received? 

Always conduct yourself as if your name is on the door. Who you are is more important than what you do. Your reputation and how you treat people and conduct business is what gets you through life.

Five favorites

Favorite book:
Oh, the Places You’ll Go! by Dr. Seuss. The kids love it.
Favorite movie: Any Pixar movie — full of adult humor, yet kid-friendly.
Favorite music: All the music I grew up listening to while working with my dad — Dean Martin, Sinatra, Johnny Cash, Jerry Reed, outlaw country and, of course, ’90s hair bands.
Favorite food: Italian, specifically our authentic family recipes.
Favorite thing about NH: Easy access to mountains, lakes, beaches, oceans and my family in Massachusetts.

Featured photo: Dave Gambaccini. Courtesy photo.

Treasure Hunt 22/02/24

Dear Donna,

We have been using this weight for a door stop. It’s super heavy and has a 4K on it. I think it is brass but I’m not sure.

Can you give us any information on it? We know it’s old because it belonged to my husband’s father. That’s all we know other than it works for a door stop.

Stacey from Tilton

Dear Stacey,

It took me a minute and some research to figure out your door stop, so thanks for the opportunity to learn something new!

What you have is a piece of sports memorabilia. It’s called a shot put and the 4K is the weight of it. That translates into about 8 pounds. It’s meant to be thrown. Then the distance is measured in field competition.

The value of older brass ones is in the range of $100, so you have a treasure for a door stop. I’m glad you have a new use for your shot put.

Kiddie Pool 22/02/24

Family fun for the weekend

High-flying show

• The Grand Shanghai Circus will show off their acrobatic feats in shows at the Palace Theatre (80 Hanover St. in Manchester; palacetheatre.org, 668-5588) this Saturday, Feb. 26, at 2 and 7:30 p.m. and Sunday, Feb. 27, at 2 p.m. Tickets cost $24.50 to $54.50. Search “Grand Shanghai Circus” to see clips of their shows featuring aerial acrobatics, juggling and more.

Fun with pool noodles

• The Children’s Museum of New Hampshire (2 Washington St. in Dover; childrens-museum.org, 742-2002) is open Tuesdays through Sundays, with sessions from 9 a.m. to noon all six days as well as from 1 to 4 p.m. Wednesdays through Saturdays. Admission costs $11 per person, $9 for 65+ (no charge for children under 1). On Thursday, Feb. 24, catch the second day of the Pool Noodle Workshop with Homeslice Puppetry. At 10 a.m. and 2 p.m., the museum will host a virtual class by Eric from Homeslice and provide materials so kids can make a puppet to take home, according to the website, which says the workshop is included in admission to a Thursday session. The website describes the project as being good for ages 3 and up with a grownup to help. Or head to the museum on Friday — both Feb. 25 and March 4 have “Science Friday” programming on the schedule. Reserve admission for the museum online.

Science outing

• The McAuliffe-Shepard Discovery Center (2 Institute Drive in Concord; starhop.com, 271-7827) is open daily through Sunday, March 6, with sessions from 10:30 a.m. to 1 p.m. and 1:30 to 4 p.m. There will be four planetarium shows daily, according to the website, which recommends purchasing timed tickets in advance. Admission costs $11.50 for adults, $10.50 for students and seniors and $8.50 for kids ages 3 to 12 (admission is free for children 2 and under; masks required for visitors over the age of 2). Planetarium show tickets cost $5 per person (free for children 2 and under); see the website for the schedule of planetarium shows.

• Though normally closed on Mondays, the SEE Science Center (200 Bedford St. in Manchester; see-sciencecenter.org, 669-0400) will be open Monday, Feb. 28, as well as Tuesdays through Fridays from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. and Saturdays and Sundays 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. Purchase reservations in advance via the website (masks are required for all visitors age 2 and up); admission costs $10 per person ages 3 and up.

Winter fun

McIntyre Ski Area (50 Chalet Court in Manchester; 622-6159, mcintyreskiarea.com) has holiday hours: The lift is slated to operate daily through Saturday, March 5, from 9 a.m. to 9 p.m. and on Sunday, March 6, from 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. The snowtubing Bonneville Thrill Hill hours are 11 a.m. to 1 p.m., 1 to 3 p.m., 3:30 to 5:30 p.m., 6 to 8 p.m. and 7 to 9 p.m. daily through Saturday, March 5. See the website for daily updates on weather and ski conditions.

• NH Audubon is holding a “Winter Woodland Wander” on Tuesday, March 1, at the Massabesic Center (26 Audubon Way in Auburn; nhaudubon.org, 668-2045). A $15 ticket covers a family of four. During the hour-long program, attendees will hit the trails in search of tracks and other signs of wildlife, according to the website, where tickets can be purchased.

• Mt. Kearsarge Indian Museum (18 Highlawn Road in Warner; indianmuseum.org, 456-2600) is holding a Snow Snake Winter Celebration on Saturday, Feb. 26, and Sunday, Feb. 27, from 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. each day. Learn to play the Abenaki outdoor game Snow Snake, featuring a wooden snake. The outdoor event, which is free and open to the public, will also feature a used book sale. Admission to the museum itself costs $9 for adults, $8 for seniors and students, $7 for children 6 to 12 and $26 for a family of two adults and children under 18.

Seed shopping

A few ideas to get you started

When I was a young man my mailbox was often blessed with seed catalogs at this time of year. Now? Not so much. Back then I pored over them. I drooled over the listings. I wrote checks for small amounts and mailed them off to the companies offering the best-sounding varieties.

Now? Most seeds are sold online. Yes, my favorite feed-and-grain store, some hardware stores and the local food coop still sell seeds over the counter. And I do get a few catalogs in the mail. But seeds are largely sold through the internet.

One company that still sends me a catalog in the mail is called “Seeds from Italy” (also at GrowItalian.com). I’ve been following this company, which is based in Lawrence, Kansas, since a friend of mine bought it in 2011. His son, Will Nagengast, just took over and I called him to chat a bit after I got his catalog.

According to Will, the American palate is just discovering bitter vegetables. Italians, however, have been eating and enjoying those distinct flavors for a long time. So they feature many vegetables that are not commonly sold by other seed companies; they market seeds from Italy.

One I have tried is Cima di Rapa or broccoli raab, which I often see in cooking magazines, but not at the grocery store. It is unpleasant unless cooked, but cooked it is much like broccoli. It does not form a big head like broccoli, however — it’s all side shoots.

Do you like arugula? They sell five kinds, including a wild arugula (which can seed in if you let it). Then there are a dozen kinds of radicchio, including a pink-leafed one (Radicchio del Veneto) that Will says is very popular. Never grown radicchio? It can be eaten raw in a salad, or fried with bacon and shrimp, or put in a stir-fry or soup. Grilling or cooking it makes the flavor sweeter. Most varieties are red-leafed and round, but some are elongated like romaine lettuce.

I’m ordering seeds for a winter squash Will recommended: Butternut Rugosa. He says it is much larger than the Waltham butternut I normally grow: up to 30 or 40 pounds! He said it keeps for up to four months in a cool, dry place. He oven-roasts them and then freezes most of these big squash. Will uses the sweet, creamy meat for making homemade ravioli.

Fruition Seeds in the Finger Lake Region of New York State was started in 2012 by Petra Page-Mann and Michael Goldfarb. They are fully organic farmers, and most of what they grow are heirloom seeds, but they have developed a few varieties themselves through their breeding program. They encourage their customers to save seeds and use their own. I called Petra recently to see what they have added to their seed line.

August Ambrosia is a short-season watermelon that Fruition developed over a six-year period in collaboration with Cornell University. They tested it each year with visitors to the farm to get just what people wanted: sweet, juicy melons that, even if planted in June, will produce ripe melons in August. The rinds are thin and the seeds are small. Petra told me on the phone that you can eat the seeds — or have fun spitting them!

“Food is so social. Growing and sharing food is how we remember to be human,” Petra told me. So she welcomes visitors to the farm, and shares her food — and her fantastic enthusiasm — with her visitors. And she learns what appeals to her customers, which is good business.

Fruition sells seed for two interesting cabbages: Kalibos is a deep purple cabbage, cone shaped, with big hips. According to the website, it is best as a fall cabbage; sow in early or mid-July for best results. You can seed them in six-packs in early July and transplant them into the garden in early August at two-foot spacing. Harvest them in October and November to get heads of optimal size and sweetness.

Mermaid’s Tale is a cross between Kalibos and early green cone-headed cabbage. Each one is unique in color, shape and flavor: lime green to emerald with lavender to burgundy veining. Sharp or subtle flavor.

Another specialty of Fruition Seeds is their “Hope is a Verb” dahlia. Each seed is unique and each flower is different, made from innumerable crosses of dwarf and semi-dwarf collarette-style dahlias. Petra explained to me that dahlias have eight sets of chromosomes, and consequently have many ways of expressing their genes. The plants are 2 feet tall or less, with blooms 1 to 3 inches across. She said they are fabulous for short seasons and lower light conditions. I shall start some.

Lastly I shall order Spotlight Snow Peas from Fruition Seeds. Some will be green, some purple, some mixed colors. They are very early (or late if planted in early August for a fall crop), very sweet, and 3 feet tall or less. Petra says they taste great and only take 52 days to harvest!

Every company has something unique and wonderful. Buy your seeds now, as some seed companies will sell out before summer. And if you haven’t tried starting seeds indoors, I’ll tell you about that next week.

Featured photo: Hope is a Verb dahlia. Courtesy photo.

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