Our Missing Hearts, by Celeste Ng

Our Missing Hearts, by Celeste Ng (Penguin Press, 352 pages)

Celeste Ng’s latest novel is a depressing dive into a dystopian society, but I had high hopes for it when I found a handwritten note tucked inside the copy I picked up from the library that said, “It is so, so, so good!” I have to wonder if I would have liked it more if that note hadn’t been there, messing with my expectations.

In Our Missing Hearts, the government has passed PACT, the Preserving American Culture and Traditions Act, which has resulted in the banning of anything that might promote anti-Americanism and forces children of parents who don’t fully support the act to live with state-approved foster families. PACT targets Asians, particularly the Chinese; the American government blames the decade-old “Crisis” — an economic downturn marked by unemployment and poverty — on Chinese manipulation.

The story follows 12-year-old Bird, whose mother, Chinese-American poet Margaret Miu, left him and his father three years prior, after the line from her poem “Our Missing Hearts” was adopted as a slogan for anti-PACT activists. Worried that the government would take Bird away because she was perceived as a traitor, Margaret left first.

While the idea is good, its execution drags the story down. Ng (author of the adapted-for-Hulu novel Little Fires Everywhere) made some interesting writing choices in Our Missing Hearts. My biggest pet peeve is that she doesn’t use quotation marks at all, anywhere, even though the characters have dialogues. The decision struck me as somewhat arrogant, serving no purpose other than showing that Ng has become well-known enough as an author to take such liberties. But I realized I wasn’t being fair and should find out if there was a good reason for it, so, naturally, I asked Google. An article on BuzzFeed gave me the answer; Ng was asked about her style choices, specifically the lack of quotation marks. Her response:

“When I started writing the novel, I found that I was instinctively writing without quotation marks … but I had to think about why. (I’ll be honest, I usually hate when there are no quotation marks.) … I wanted the novel to feel slightly folkloric, almost dreamlike; for Bird, the events feel a little bit like stepping into a fairytale, one of the stories his mother told him when he was young. When you think of a story being told out loud, the way folktales often are … there’s a blurring between the person narrating, and the words of the story, and the things the characters say. So, removing the quotation marks helped create that effect for the reader.”

Maybe someone who is less of a stickler about grammatical rules would appreciate that artistic perspective, but strong dialogue can really move a plot along and give the characters personality, and this didn’t have any of that. In fact, my main issue with the novel is that I didn’t really care about the characters; they were flat, dull and one-dimensional. Ng switches perspective about halfway through the novel, from Bird’s point of view to Margaret’s, and while it helps explain her reasons for leaving more clearly, that emotion still isn’t there. A mother who has to leave her child should be devastated; what we see is her focusing instead on her anti-PACT mission. It’s noble, of course, but she seems almost robotic.

The character I actually liked the most was Sadie, who was removed from her home because her parents were working against PACT. At first we get to know from Bird’s memories of her; later he meets up with her on his journey to find his mother — which he seems to do only because she sent him a cryptic letter that he thinks is a request for him to find her, and not because he has a strong emotional desire to see her. He might, but the story focuses more on how he works through the clues his mother gave him to find her.

Dystopian novels are often bleak, but Our Missing Hearts was both bleak and boring. At times I didn’t even want to finish it, but it’s pretty short, and I promised to write a book review about it, so here we are.

While the concept was good, it might have been better as a short story, where the lack of character development would be less noticeable. As a novel, Our Missing Hearts is missing, well, heart. Maybe that’s the point. But the story would have been more powerful if there were more feeling behind it. C+

Album Reviews 22/12/01

Monster Magnet, Test Patterns: Vol. 1 (God Unknown Records)

Holy cats, a new Monster Magnet album, folks — there’s a jolt to the brain, isn’t it? They suddenly showed up from out of nowhere — a.k.a. Red Bank, New Jersey — working a noise rock angle that was, and I quote, “a cosmos away from the major-label, alternative rock boom that would suck the band into the shiny MTV world of the early to middle 90s.” In other words they were pretty useful, and antidote to all the Hawkwinds and Nirvana wannabes that made the 90s so useless, and this is more of the same, two versions of a 25-odd-minute-long fuzz-jam called “Tab.” The first version is a remix from 2021, pure Brian Jonestown Massacre meets Norman Greenbaum’s “Spirit in the Sky” but without any real musical purpose aside from being trippy, and then comes the original version, from a 1988 demo, which is virtually indistinguishable from the last 150-odd songs King Gizzard has put out this fiscal quarter. And here I’ll bet you’d thought these guys were gone forever, didn’t you? Weird, or what? B

The White Buffalo, Year Of The Dark Horse (Snakefarm Records)

When the pandemic put everyone in the entertainment business into stasis chambers, people did different things to stay sane. I know of two guys who picked up the drums just to stay sane, but this fellow here, Oregon-born Jake Smith, a guitarist by trade, picked up a synthesizer to make this LP, the follow-up to his 2020 full-length On The Widow’s Walk, more of a creative challenge as he “embarked on a voyage of discovery.” Well isn’t that special, and this isn’t a synth tour-de-force, but it does work in many ways, especially if you dug his early Americana-rock (he hates it when people call it that). The first tune, “Kingdom For A Fool,” begins with the same sleepy-but-buzzed-out vibe as Bread’s “Guitar Man,” but then it’s on, folks, Smith’s vocal tabling some unabashed rawk-melodics I wasn’t expecting at all. The sound is pretty full and rich as far as California-steeped radio-pop goes (he’s living in Cali these days, for the record), for example “C’mon Come Up Come Out” has a Red Hot Chili Peppers laziness to it, and if you like Beck, you’ll like a lot of this stuff. A

Playlist

• Land’s sakes, Jane, stop this crazy thing, we’re into the first week of December already, and there will be (I hope) a few new albums slated for release on Friday, Dec. 2. Ah, here’s a few of the little rascals, the first thing to which I’ll give a funny sideways look is (or course) a box set (because box sets and reissues make great holiday gifts for record collectors who already have everything they don’t need), specifically the big fat Sail On Sailor – 1972: Super Deluxe Box Set from the Beach Boys, who are celebrating their 60th year of making totally groovy music for Woodstock druggies or whatever their mission statement is. But now it’s time for today’s big reveal: I, multiple-award-winning music journo that I am, had no idea whatsoever that the Beach Boys were the ones who did that song in the first place. No, seriously, I’d always figured it had been some Chicago-wannabe 1970s band like Stealers Wheel, but no, it was the Beach Boys. I never really liked that song all that much, but you guys remember when it was playing over some scene in The Departed involving hams or whatever, and it was so edgy and cool? No? Well maybe you should go watch it again, just try to get past Jack Nicholson’s usual overacting and all that, it was a cool scene. And so on and so forth, this $120 heap of CDs and nonsense covers the Boys’ 1972 albums Carl And The Passions and Holland. Says here “This 6-CD set features a 48-page book with extensive liner notes, rare photos and more. The collection includes remastered versions of the original albums as well as outtakes and session highlights from the original Mount Vernon and Fairway EP from Holland, plus a previously unreleased concert from Carnegie Hall, 1972. Also included are dozens of studio and live additional tracks, sessions and alternate versions.” Yow, all I needed was a normal version of “Sail On Sailor,” but instead it’s basically a hilariously overpriced pu pu platter of mostly chicken fingers instead of the beef teriyaki strip I really only wanted in the first place. How do I shut this off?

• Los Angeles skate-punk veterans NOFX have been a thing since 1983, but they still know where to buy Day-Glo Hawaiian shirts, K-Mart cutoff shorts and all the other parts of their clown outfits, so here’s to those guys and their new album, titled Double Album! Wait a second, though, guys, wait a second, you’ll die when you hear this, are you ready? Right, it’s not actually a double album, just a single album, with 10 songs! The irony, I’m sorry, I’m really getting the vapors and need to lay down with my smelling salts, land’s sakes alive. So, whatever, appropriately enough, the test-drive single is called “Punk Rock Cliché,” and it’s pretty gosh darn cool if you don’t mind that the main riff is pretty much stolen from Thin Lizzy’s “Thunder and Lightning,” and the whole tune will be mistaken for a disposable Hoobastank filler song, but that’s the price of fame: help to invent a genre one year, and then watch as a bunch of 18-year-old scamps put you out of business. Seriously, how do you stop this crazy thing?

• St. Louis-based hip-hop producer/DJ/etc. Metro Boomin has only been around since 2009, but one of the first questions that comes up when you Google the guy is, “Is he retired yet?” Yes, that’s how ancient you are, I’m sorry for you. Heroes & Villains is his new record, and the beats are epic (but annoyingly trappy) in the single “Gods Don’t Bleed,” which features 21 Savage & Travis Scott. You might like it.

• We’ll end with Cleveland-bred techno-dude Galcher Lustwerk and his new 100% Galcher LP. “Put On” is a nice, hypnotic bit of mid-aughts deep house, unadventurous but perfect mall ambiance for chilling out to while your girlfriend tries on dresses she’ll regret buying.

If you’re in a local band, now’s a great time to let me know about your EP, your single, whatever’s on your mind. Let me know how you’re holding yourself together without being able to play shows or jam with your homies. Send a recipe for keema matar. Message me on Twitter (@esaeger) or Facebook (eric.saeger.9).

Rosemary Mixed Nuts

Over the next month, odds are likely that you will be hosting or attending a gathering where you are requested to bring an appetizer to share. There are bound to be an assortment of dips and charcuterie trays. Why not make something simple, different and utterly memorable? Let me introduce you to this mixed nut recipe.

You may be wondering why you can’t just buy a container of mixed nuts at the grocery store and bring that to the party. The answer is simple: The flavors in these mixed nuts are not going to be found on a grocery store shelf. The combination of sweet, salty and herbaceous delivers a snack that is truly unique. It will work as a part of an appetizer menu, as well as a dessert menu.

Let’s talk about the ingredients. The ratio of walnuts to pecans is up to you. In fact, if you want to use only one type of nut, that is fine. The butter should be unsalted. If you only have salted butter, you should use only 1/4 teaspoon of salt. Fresh rosemary is preferred, as dried rosemary has a pine needle sort of texture.

I have made this recipe for many a gathering, and it is always popular. Thankfully, you can easily double or triple the recipe to feed a big, hungry crowd. Let the season of eating continue!

Rosemary Mixed Nuts
Serves 4-6

2¼ cups walnuts and pecans
1 Tablespoon unsalted butter
2½ Tablespoons brown sugar, divided
¾ teaspoon kosher salt
2 Tablespoons fresh rosemary, minced
1 Tablespoon water

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.
Spread walnuts and pecans on a rimmed baking sheet; bake for 10 minutes.
Right before the nuts are done, melt the butter in a small bowl (15 to 30 seconds in a microwave).
Add 1 tablespoon brown sugar to melted butter, and stir well.
Remove nuts from the oven, and push into a pile using a spatula.
Pour melted butter mixture over nuts, and toss to combine.
Spread nuts into a single layer; sprinkle with salt and rosemary.
Bake for 10 minutes.
Combine water and remaining brown sugar.
Remove nuts from the oven, and drizzle with sugar syrup.
Bake for 5 more minutes.
Serve warm, or cool and transfer to a storage container.

Featured Photo: Rosemary Mixed Nuts. Photo by Michele Pesula Kuegler.

In the kitchen with Christina Wormell

Christina Wormell of Hillsborough is the owner of Queen of Tarts Pâtisserie (find her on Facebook and Instagram @queenoftartspatisserie), specializing in French cookies, breads, éclairs and other pastries and baked goods in a variety of rotating seasonal flavors. Originally from Maine, Wormell attended New England College in Henniker, and left her job at the beginning of 2021 to pursue her childhood dream of becoming a baker. Her passion started at an early age, when she and her Memere would bake and watch cooking shows together every weekend. Wormell regularly participates in area farmers markets during the summer months, as well as fairs and craft shows, and she also accepts custom orders through social media for local pickup.

What is your must-have kitchen item?

I definitely would have to have a whisk, because it’s so versatile.

What would you have for your last meal?

I would definitely have a Maine lobster roll. I mean, I don’t eat meat anymore, but if it was my last meal, I’d make an exception for that. … It has to be with mayonnaise and on a toasted roll.

What is your favorite local restaurant?

Ichiban [Japanese Steakhouse & Sushi Bar] in Concord. … They have a vegetarian roll that has seaweed, avocado and cucumber, and that’s my go-to.

What celebrity would you like to see ordering from you?

It would have to be chef Gordon Ramsay. He’s my favorite. I’d be pretty confident he’d like my stuff.

What is your favorite thing on any one of your menus?

I really like to make éclairs. My personal favorite flavor that I made was a lemon poppy seed éclair. I do that one around June or July.

What is the biggest food trend in New Hampshire right now?

I think the trend right now is because of the TV show Is It Cake? You’ll see a scene where, say, there’s a laptop, a phone and a piece of paper, and one of those things is [made of] cake, but it’s so realistic that you don’t [know which one] until they cut into it. That’s something that I see everywhere and I think it’s because of that show.

What is your favorite thing to make at home?

I love to make homemade bread. … I like to do herbed French breads and just plain French breads.

Homemade banana bread
From the kitchen of Christina Wormell of Queen of Tarts Pâtisserie
¾ cup packed brown sugar
1 stick butter
2 eggs
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
4 overripe bananas
2 cups all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon baking soda
¼ teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon cinnamon

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Grease and flour a 9-by-5-inch pan. In a separate bowl, mash three of the four bananas and set aside. In another separate bowl, combine the flour, baking soda, salt and cinnamon and set aside. Using your mixer, start by creaming the butter and sugar together. Add in the eggs one at a time. Add in the vanilla and mashed bananas and mix until incorporated. Add your flour mixture into the batter and fold until just combined. Pour the batter into the prepared pan. Take your remaining banana, peel it and cut it down the middle vertically. Place the two halves of the banana facing up on top of the batter. Bake in the preheated oven until a toothpick inserted into the center comes out clean (about 45 to 60 minutes). Let the bread cool in a pan for 10 minutes before putting it on your wire rack.

Featured photo: Christina Wormell. Photo by Selena Massie, selenamassiephotography.com.

Cheeses, spices and teas

Made in New England Expo returns

New England-based businesses will gather at the DoubleTree by Hilton Manchester Downtown’s Expo Center on Saturday, Dec. 3, and Sunday, Dec. 4, to showcase and sell their products at the Made in New England Expo.

“The goal … is to shine a light on businesses and help them get recognition, [and] … to kind of get their name out there,” show director Christine Carignan said.

These businesses include Nothin’ But Curd, a Vermont-based company that makes cheese curds and spreads; Vermont Condiment, which sells a variety of maple products; and New Hampshire Herb & Spice Co., offering custom rubs and blends.

Mixed Up Nut Butter, a Vermont business offering craft nut butters made from different tree nut blends with pecans, cashews and almonds, is back for the second time this year, as is Critical Mass Coffee, based in Manchester and offering multiple bagged blends of organic fair trade coffee.

You’ll also find Puckerbush, a newcomer specializing in jams, jellies and unique drink infusions; Holy Moly Snacks, based in Manchester and selling pre-packaged beef chips, cookies and brownies; and 27Teas, a New Hampshire tea company now also based in Manchester.

Margaret Gay, owner and founder of 27Teas, started the company about four years ago after noticing there wasn’t much out there for tea drinkers.

“When I would go places with my … now husband, he would always be able to walk into a coffee shop or a cafe and get this awesome beverage,” Gay said, “and then I would go to order something tea-related and it seemed like there [were] no options.”

Gay decided to take action.

“I feel like when people start cafes, they do it thinking of the coffee and then tea as an afterthought, and I really wanted to change that for the people that are tea lovers,” Gay said. “So I started doing my own blending and things.”

After years of selling online and doing wholesale work with cafes, 27Teas moved to Manchester a few weeks ago, where it now has its own retail shop.

“My mission is changing the way people in New England and beyond … drink tea,” she said. “So I really focus on making education available as well. I want to make the switch to drinking loose leaf tea unintimidating, easy, delicious, but also affordable.”

Another important aspect to her business is giving back, which Gay does by giving a percentage of her profits to The Water Project, a Concord-based clean water initiative.

Now being located in Manchester, Gay felt it was especially important to attend this year’s expo.

“My hope is that I get to run into a lot of people who haven’t maybe seen my products before and get to try it,” she said.

Gay’s business is a great example, Carignan said, of why the expo is such an effective platform for others like hers to expand their customer reach.

“We want to help give these small businesses the exposure that they want, [and] to help take their business to the next level,” she said. “We also want … our audience … to be able to find unique products and support local companies and … see what’s available right around the corner from them that they may not be aware of.”

Made in New England Expo
When: Saturday, Dec. 3, 10 a.m. to 6 p.m., and Sunday, Dec. 4, 10 a.m. to 4 p.m.
Where: DoubleTree by Hilton Expo Center, 700 Elm St., Manchester
Cost: $8 admission for adults, $7 for seniors and $2 for children ages 2 to 12. Tickets can be pre-purchased online or at the door the day of the event.
More info: Visit madeinnewenglandexpo.com or find the event on Facebook @madeinnewenglandexpo

Featured photo: Photo by Matthew Lomanno Photography.

Peace, love and barbecue

Smokin’ Spank’s food trailer rolls into Litchfield

Kevin Anctil of Litchfield grew up on family-owned farmland in Lewiston, Maine, where his late grandfather was revered in the community for his barbecued chicken. Several Sundays out of the year, Armand Anctil would purchase a batch of chickens from a local processing plant and cook them out in front of his home, using his own barbecue pits he had designed and built.

“They were sandwich-type grates, so he could load them up and close them down, then walk down the line and baste all the chickens and flip all the grates over, and he’d do that for 90 minutes to two hours,” Anctil said. “Then the people of Lewiston, after mass, would walk up the hillside with their blankets and picnic baskets, or their potato salad and lemonade, and they’d buy Pepere’s chicken and eat it out there on the yard in front of the farmhouse.”

As owner and pitmaster of Smokin’ Spank’s Barbecue, a 22-foot food trailer launched earlier this fall, Anctil pays homage to his family’s roots. He has the same original basting sauce and finishing sauce recipes for his own barbecue chicken, and he even added a custom-built pit for his trailer that uses the same type of sandwich grating techniques his grandfather once employed.

top view close up of macaroni and cheese in small plastic cup
Macaroni and cheese. Photo courtesy of Smokin’ Spank’s.

Smokin’ Spank’s Barbecue is scheduled to appear at 446 Charles Bancroft Highway in Litchfield on several weekend dates this month, with the next one on Saturday, Dec. 3. Anctil is also cooking up barbecue for attendees of Spirit of Litchfield’s fifth annual tree lighting, set for Saturday, Dec. 10, at Roy Memorial Park.

Anctil, who is affectionately known in his college friend circle as “Spank,” described his concept as traditional Southern barbecue, but with some New England roots. His brisket, for instance, is smoked Texas-style with salt and pepper in tribute to his own travels, while other items include maple baby back ribs that are finished with maple syrup as a glaze.

“I do a blueberry spare rib that’s a bigger, meatier rib with a blueberry barbecue sauce on it,” he said. “I also have local apples in the apple bacon barbecue sauce that I serve with my pulled pork, and I do a blueberry jalapeno slaw that I guarantee you’ve never had anyplace else. … It starts as sort of a traditional coleslaw, but then I include big whole blueberries and slivers of seeded jalapeno in there. It doesn’t bring a lot of heat but it does bring a bright fresh green pop.”

Anctil also serves traditional macaroni and cheese and loaded baked potato salad, both of which he considers to be his flagship sides. Last week, he offered a menu of “spankwiches” for the first time, featuring a half-pound of pulled pork or pit beef and a house sauce — the apple bacon sauce, he said, is designed to pair with the pork, while the Texas table sauce goes with the beef.

“Peace, love and barbecue” is Anctil’s unofficial slogan, the words adorning his trailer.

“I spent the first 30 years of my working career in IT, and following Covid, I made a career change,” he said. “I was doing something that really wasn’t my passion or was in my heart, and so … my family got behind me and wanted to support me to try to make a go of doing what I love. … I’m at peace when I’m cooking and I show my love through my food.”

Smokin’ Spank’s Barbecue
Upcoming appearances; visit smokinspanks.com or find them on Facebook and Instagram @smokinspank
• Saturday, Dec. 3: 446 Charles Bancroft Hwy., Litchfield (noon to sellout)
• Saturday, Dec. 10: Annual Christmas tree lighting at Roy Memorial Park, Wood Hawk Way and Albuquerque Ave., Litchfield (4 to 7 p.m.)
• Saturday, Dec. 17: 446 Charles Bancroft Hwy., Litchfield (noon to sellout)
• Friday, Dec. 23: 446 Charles Bancroft Hwy., Litchfield (noon to sellout)

Featured photo: Blueberry spare ribs. Photo courtesy of Smokin’ Spank’s.

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